Please don't flame for the necro. I think my question and OpSic's answer may help more than just me.

Can you do the dual gate wiring with an AB mosfet? If so, any changes from running the three wires off the N channel mosfet?

Thanks.

Yes you CAN do a dual gate wire, with the AB Mosfet.

TAMU John shows how here in this thread. It's post #30

This post has been edited by OpSic66: Jan 15 2009, 11:07 PM

So if I were to install a capacitor bank in my AEG, how much net uF would I need?

(great guide by the way)

This post has been edited by Murph9935: Jan 15 2009, 11:28 PM

Ich bin ein Esel dumm.

I didn't realize that was dual gate. Thanks for not making me feel terribly stupid for not knowing.

Sorgen Sie nicht sich um es

It happens.

Has anyone had luck with buying n-channel or p-channel mosfets? Digi-key has them but wants me to order at least 200 of them meaning a $400+ bill for them.

I really only want to buy like 10 mosfets, so anyone know how to do this through digi-key or are there other places to get them?

BTW, Radioshack and Frys Electronics do not carry them.

I just ordered some P-channels last week. About $3. Minimum order was 1.

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch...e=IRF4905PBF-ND

Yeah, those are the p-channels.

I also need n-channels and could only find them orderable in less then 200 on this site HERE

I use the IRL3713s for simple N-channel mosfets. I should have a IRL3713/IRF4905 AB Mosfet together and tested this weekend. I think the 3713 should work...I hope. Anyone have experience with using the 3713 in an AB Mosfet?


3713
Volts: 30
Amps: 260
Power dissip: 330W
Resistance: 4mOhms


1404
Volts: 40
Amps: 180
Power dissip: 200W
Resistance: 2.5 mOhm

This is a wonderful guide! Thank you so much for making it. I now feel so much more comfortable with making and installing my own MOSFET.
Now I just gotta work on those soldering skills and I'll be good to go!
I only have one question.

This may sound noobish, but how do you splice the gate wire with the positive wire? Do you solder them together where they meet at the battery connector and then solder them both onto the Deans battery connector? That seems to me like the most logical choice, but I am not sure.

Thanks for all your help!

EDIT: Don't want to seem like a necro poster. I just figured since someone posted on this about a week ago, I could also post here. So please forgive me if I am wrong in my thinking.

EDIT 2: As I was skimming the rest of the thread, I noticed the second video, which I didn't see before. This answered my question. Sorry for my carelessness.

This post has been edited by XBassDudex: Jan 25 2009, 08:41 PM

I'm looking at taking Golgo's AB Mosfet and sticking it on a piece of circuit board for a cleaner looking install.

I have zero electrical experience. And I don't really know the science behind the function of MOSFETs and circuitry. I don't have any circuit board, and I'm guessing a MOSFET is wider than the three holes shown on the diagram.

Given the above caveats, I made this board layout, hopefully making the same connections Golgo did. Should this setup work? It won't be as wide as the diagram, as you'd be able to run the wire leads more cleanly under or over the board. And it wouldn't be as long as the diagram because a lot of board is shown to show the wire leads. In theory, it should only be as wide as the MOSFETs and one to two holes longer than the 100 ohm resistor to the top of the P-chan mosfet.

[attachment=2480:MOSFET.jpg]

Any input?

my original design employed a perf board quite similar to yours. The only difference was, I bridged the heatsinks together and removed the drain pins.

The perf board thing can work really well, but it is not the route to go if you are trying to save space.

I've got a full stock M16. Space isn't a horrible concern.

Thanks for your input. Off to the Shack to find some perf board.

Hey guys going to build a mosfet with active breaking. Just wanted to check with you guys on if these are the right mosfets for the job. The P-Channel is recommended on the front page. The N Channel is my only concern. Will it do the job?

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch...e=497-7529-5-ND

MOSFET N-CHAN 60V 60A TO-220

I just put one of these together, I put 3 35v 1000 uf in parellel and attached them directly to the fet, I wrapped a little etape around them to keep them together and I took a p and n channel fet put them together with the resisters and stuff.

worked great with a 8.4, I was getting really good rof for an 8.4, then I plugged in my 10.8 and it started smoking and got pretty hot

and Ideas on what is wrong?

Here's my homemade mosfet, based on Golgo's design. It's untested and the layout is larger than I wanted because I left extra space for a resettable fuse that I never installed. Why I waste such time on this kind of stuff is beyond me.



Let me know what you think.

Hot damn... Your layout just sparked a VERY interesting design layout in my head.

I'll work one up, and post photo's of it when I get a chance.

I could have moved the FETs three holes closer if I wasn't planning to put the polyfuses between them.

I don't like the way I had to bridge the gate and drain pins either. I don't have the electronic know-how to know if the bridges will alter the functionality since in Golgo's design they are soldered together.

I'll Dean's the heck out of it. Male on the battery end. Female on the gearbox end. Dean's micros for the trigger switch leads.

I hope the danged thing works.

anyone know where I can get some p-channel mosfets... digikey seems to be always out of stock...

I was looking to change my glass fuse to an automotive fuse. I was wondering if any has done this and how did their setup was done.

also, does anyone know where I can get resettable fuses?

This post has been edited by shortys38833: Apr 9 2009, 05:33 PM

I use 30 amp mini blade fuses. Soldered directly inline.

ahh, thats an easy way to do it. Have you tried to do a removable fuse? like a mini fuse box.

Mini-fuse boxes tend to be too big sometimes, I just use two terminals electrical taped together, it's a lot smaller.

Since I run a crane stock, there's not enough room. However, I DID have a removable fuse holder using the same size fuse, in a full stock M16 and that worked well.

Just alittle bit to add about people making their own mosfet. The IRL404z is now "obsolete" according to digikey and other places to buy mosfets. On IR's site the direct replacement, or upgrade from that is the IRL1404ZPBF which I ordered through allied electronics.

I have 5 questions abot "Deaning"

1: Does it matter what kind of solder is used? Recomend any?

2: Does it matter hot hot or cold the heat gun is? Or do you only need it hot enough to melt the solder?

3: Will the deans connecters change the amount of shots a battery can dish out with one charge? Decrease or increase?

4: How much Rof increase if used with an M120-M130?

5: Will it still increase Rof if I only replace 1 of my 2 stock tamayas? (I know its a dumb idea, but its all I can do becuase me and my bro share a smart charger and I cant charge my batteries if they have deans and the charger has tamayas, he wont let me solder his gun in fear I break it, nor will he buy his deans, I'd have to buy em' for him)
So untill I convince him, im going to have to stick w/ only one of my middle connecter being deans.

You need to replace all the connectors or none. A partial deaning doesnt do anything as long as there is a tiamya in the circuit then it's resitance will be felt.

Just make a adapter for the chargers tiamyas to your future deans.

I think this deserves to be pinned,anybody elso think so?

Right here.

http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/Wiring-G...mp-t122174.html

definitely, this post is incredibly helpful for wiring and mosfets.

Well this is just mentioned in a pin,I mean an actaull pin.

It doesn't need to "technically" be pinned twice.

If youre looking for some cheap deans/t-plugs her ya go

What is usually the problem when your gun fires on full auto as soon as a power source is connected? I made the mosfet myself, but I think I may have wired it incorrectly.

Something that was not covered in the thread was the amount of Farads your capacitors should be and how much it matters?

as many farads as possible. TAMU JOHN on here found some 16v 10,000 farad caps that were reasonably sized.

I would personnally skip the caps and go lipo!

I've been reading over this thread (as well various other mosfet articles) for a while and decided to go out and get some parts today.

However, after reviewing the schematics again, the 20-30k ohm resistor between gate and source didn't seem to make much sense to me. The only thing I could think of was to try to negate a little impedance in the mosfet. Then I realized that the original "quick pictographic diagram" didn't even show a gate-source resistor.

So that made me wonder, what's the point of the 20-30k ohm 'crossover' resistor and what would the effect of not using it be?

in that schmatic the cross over resistor is connected from gate to drain but the text above talks about the resistor going from gate to source.

what I am missing?

If you had a resistor from Gate to drain, that resistor would be a short.

This post has been edited by OpSic66: Sep 13 2009, 10:57 PM

just to clarify then, the OP's picture is incorrect where it goes from gate to source?
and should instead be gate > drain?

if it is a short, then howcome the op's seems to work, cheers in advance for clearing it up ( if you do :D )