Well I finally decided to buy 2slo2ugly's JG beta spetz AK. I really liked it for some reason. I figured it would be an excellent loaner or project gun.

(*note: all small thumbnail pics can be enlarged by clicking.)

So I decided to make it into a low power CQB bb hose. I decided to take the element kit, short stroke the piston, swiss cheese the piston, rewire the gun with a basic mosfet and deans plugs, break in the gears and the motor. Reshim and retune the gearbox.
here she is before...


I bought an element full tune kit from ROman for 30 bux! So far I spent 90 bux on the gun.
here is the ELEMENT ftk...


The battery mike gave me was a 1200mah 8.4v NIcad battery. It totally sux . lol but the price was right so ehh.. here it is at full charge putting out a whopping 9.9v


The stock configuration measured at 305fps at 12 rounds per second.
(all measurements were made with guarder 2008 speedy chrono using killer beez .20 bb's)






obviously there was ample room for improvement.

I cracked open the gun and got to work. I use a white towel or similar when working on AEG's so that any parts lying around can be easily found. I also lay the parts and hardware together in an orderly manner so reassembly is headache free(for the most part lol)


The gearbox seemed to be of decent quality and it had an ICS motor. not bad. here is the stock gearbox...





Step one *gearbox overhaul*
I used carb cleaner to strip all of the grease from the gearbox and added the Element metal bushings which were a tight fit. I super glued them in place as well.
I then shimmed the gears and broke in the motor and then the gears using a tub of water and an old/weak nicad battery I have.

I also used a heat gun to expand the piston head o-ring a bit.






Be sure if you use the water method to break in your motor that you do 2 minutes reverse polarity and then 3 minutes normal polarity. when you are done you must get all of the water out. brake cleaner does this task extremely well.


Step 2 *short stroke the piston*

The factory piston head had a large weight on it. The element version has no weight added but does have ball bearings. In a high ROF setup, you may want to use a head that has no bearings to save weight. Since the element head was still lighter than stock, and the only one I had on hand, I used it.

I am only short stroking the piston by one tooth. you can remove even more, but remember you lose about 10-15 fps per tooth removed. You also have to cut teeth from the sector gear accordingly. (more on that later)

First I removed the steel tooth from the element piston. Then I used a razor and a dremel to remove the last tooth. I also had to make the channel for the last tooth longer so that it can slide back to it's new position.


In order for the metal tooth to slide all of the way back, you need to file down that stopper.


Now I need something to fill this gap. Notice that I left a small portion of the second to last tooth to help me line up the last tooth's new postion.



To fill the gap, I used another metal tooth and dremeled off that stopper to fit like so.




an easy way to avoid doing all that , is to simply buy a piston with more than one metal last tooth and file off as many teeth as you want so long as the last tooth is still metal.



next I swiss cheesed the piston a bit. I did not have a larger drill bit so this is a mediocre swiss cheese job.
When done correctly, swiss cheesing can increase ROF by 5%. This works because there is less overall mass for the motor to have to throw around.




Finally you must remove the 2nd tooth to ensure proper gear meshing at high speeds. This will ensure the longevity of the piston and MUST be done for a high ROF setup. here are some pics of that process...

[img]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y284/meancivicsi/th_IMG_4361Medium.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y284/meancivicsi/th_IMG_4360Medium.jpg[/img]


whoo hoo , piston is finished! Notice the absence of the 2nd tooth!

[img]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y284/meancivicsi/IMG_4372Medium.jpg[/img]

Now I have to remove a tooth from the sector gear. I choose to remove one from the initial catch side to keep the tappet plate timing optimal, although for removing only one tooth, it doesnt make much difference which side.

[img]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y284/meancivicsi/IMG_4357Medium.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y284/meancivicsi/IMG_4359Medium.jpg[/img]

Lastly I rewired the whole gun with teflon 16 ga wire, deans plugs and a simple 1404 mosfet setup.
[img]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y284/meancivicsi/IMG_4376Medium.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y284/meancivicsi/IMG_4377Medium.jpg[/img]

used and angle grinder to cut the butt plate to allow external battery sources.

[img]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y284/meancivicsi/IMG_4393Medium.jpg[/img]



RESULTS!!!
ok now here is the improvements that resulted from all of that work.

velocity is between 322 and 315 now. This is surprising since there is a bad air leak between the cylinder and cylinder head. We also cut a tooth off which reduces fps. I guess the airseal improvements and bearing spacers bumped the fps up 30 fps or so over stock.

[img]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y284/meancivicsi/IMG_4407.jpg[/img]


test 1 8.4v battery 9.97v measured at time of test.
17-19 rounds per second that sux but is better than 12 rps!! lol

[img]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y284/meancivicsi/IMG_4389Medium.jpg[/img]

with the 9.6v powerizer battery( I know powerizers suck, but its all I had at the moment.)
24 rounds per second! not bad considering it only shoots 12 rps stock
[img]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y284/meancivicsi/IMG_4408.jpg[/img]

Over all the results are a step in the right direction. although I am a little dissapointed in the rof. next installment for this ak will be a...
- better motor but an ecanomical one. maybe guarder.
- better battery 7.4 or 11.1v lipo 12c-25c (economically priced one)
- capacitor bank setup
Thanks for reading any questions please pm me
[img]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y284/meancivicsi/IMG_4396Medium.jpg[/img]

Use an Intellect 10.8v or make a custom 12v with a Systema turbo... prepare to be amazed.

wow this will be very helpful for many users to come. I suggest that this is pinned! Awesome job!

Renamed "Budget High Speed Guide", and Pinned.

Wow, it's an honor for this to be a sticky. Now I wish I had spent more time on creating it

If you want to edit it, and it won't let you, then hit "reply", and copy all of the text. Then make a new post, edit it, add to it, whatever. Then, send me the link to the topic, and paste the new version of it into a pm. I can edit the pin accordingly.

*UpDaTe!*


OK well I ordered a brand new Tokyo Marui EG700 motor for 25 bux on ebay to replace the ICS turbo2000 motor that was originally in the ak.

By turning the shaft of the MArui motor compared to the ICS motor, I can already tell that the marui motor is going to beast out more power. The magnets are pretty Darn strong.

Here is a side by side pic of the ICS 2000 and marui EG700(on the right)


After I properly broke in the motor, I soldered it in... the wrong way! Polarity does matter! what an idiot! So then I desoldered and then resoldered it the right way. Now I am in business. The motor already impresses me because the trigger response is INSTANTANEOUS!

I also used a capacitor bank in this test. This particular cap bank is used to quickly convert my MP5K to an external battery when I need it. It's not pretty on the beta spetz but oh well. 3 paralell 1000mf caps. 3 dollars worth of parts.

I also used a classic army midcap, since the JG beta mag kept requiring a rewinding after every 26-27 rounds. The classic army holds 150rnds so it was good to go.

here is the bank...


Well, with the addition of the MArui eg700 and the capacitor bank coupled with a freshly charged powerizer 9.6v battery the rate of fire is.....

31 RPS!!




***VidEo!!***

http://s7.photobucket.com/albums/y284/mean...nt=MVI_4465.flv

Last installment will be a test of a 7.4 and 11.1v lipo.... stay tuned lol

What exactly does rewiring do?

Does your motor get very warm at all? I have constructed everything as closely as I can to your build, but it seems with the MOSFET installed my motor(Magnum Systema or TM EG1000) overheats extremely fast. To the tune of greater than 400 degress withing a couple hundred shots.

I've never had this issue with any other gearbox setup previously. Your thoughts?

Very informative post sir, just 1 question? Where can I or we buy a deans connector? Thanks!

you can get them at most local hobby stores.... make sure you know how to solder!

Wouldn't drilling holes in the piston signifigantly lower fps...?

no, I have done this to my gun and another piston. it allows the piston to return faster. it also does not reduce fps. since the piston head and o-ring are the ones creating the air pressure, the piston does not factor in.

I do this to my high ROF setups, but there's no physical proof that it actually works.

Hi, Sorry to be a Newbie, but I'm from England, and just ordered this AK and the Element V3 FTK from Rsov.

I ordered some capacitors from here; http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?Module...72&doy=13m2

And I was going to order the MOSFET from them too. I just wondered exactly what MOSFET it is, and EXACTLY how to wire it up.

Do you have a nice easy diagram for me?

This will only be my second ever AEG and the first ever time I've opened one :P

So, it needs to be really Newbie friendly, Like the rest of the guide :P

Thanks, in anticipation, Kris

I would suggest just buying a mosfet from somebody. www.extreme-fire.com makes amazing mosfets. however they are costly

Thanks :P Ordering one from GolGO himself, if anyone else wants to, I highly reccomend it, He's very nice, has great service, and ultra-competitive prices.

nice guide! Helps a lot

Where did you get the Element FTK? I need to upgrade my JG G36C. I've already decided on a TB Barrel and hopup upgrade but im iffy on going into the gearbox. Which is the best cost/benifit upgrade brand?

Hi mate, I followed this guide, and you can either get the element FTK from;

www.ehobbyasia.com

Just type in this into the search box; IN0900A-V3

or

www.rsov.com

I personally, got mine from EHobbyAsia

Hope I helped ;D

Kris

great guid I plan on doing somthing like this on my cyma 028 along with a billion other upgrades. my question how wold I do this with out a dremel

This post has been edited by dy3h4rd: Apr 28 2008, 05:42 PM

When I swiss-cheesed a piston, the ROF improves a little(definitely noticeable).

There can only be a MINISCULE increase in ROF. NOTHING noticable.

That's awesome and you doubled the rps. Great work.

Swiss cheesing the piston weakens it making it prone to break. don't recommend it.

not true. There is no way for it to break on the piston because it is not affecting the teeth. There is no pressure put on the back of the piston, just the piston head and teeth.

This post has been edited by xsboredom: Sep 8 2008, 08:59 PM

I think I may be using this to help a little when I upgrade my MP5

And the head and teeth are connected to the .....

hey, I'm kind of confused on the "breakin in the motor" step. I'm not sure if I missed something, or if it is a commonly known technique, but I'm lost on it. Could you explain please, or direct me to what I missed? Thank you.

quote"I bought an element full tune kit from ROman for 30 bux! So far I spent 90 bux on the gun.
here is the ELEMENT ftk...""The battery mike gave me was a 1200mah 8.4v NIcad battery. It totally sux . lol but the price was right so ehh.. here it is at full charge putting out a whopping 9.9v"

Okay. Great article man!!! Only big thing was that you mispelled "bux" and "sux". They are spelled "bucks" and "sucks". Just a suggestion.



-Clayton

this will be my very next project. what kind of capacitators did you get?

I just found out, swiss cheesing the piston can help reducing bump noise. I did with my deepfire titanium piston and satisfied with the result.