So I have read countless posts about the TM Hi-capa the WE, and all other brands. I however would like to collect all this info into one spot. I will start with what I have read and my few questions and I am hopefull AOE will lend his vast knowledge to this thread.

To start: TM has the 4.3 and 5.1 versions
They are made of ABS plastic and therefore are not ment to use co2 because it will wear down the slide catch.
The TM parts are interchangable with WE
WE guns are all metal and come in Baby, Dragon, and Regular versions
WE makes the co2 mags and regular mags
WE slides were to heavy for regular green gas because they were metal and needed co2 to cycle properly, now they make Dragon style slides lighter to cycle easyer.
WE has problems with its internals and needs to be repaired.

So my question is is co2 better than green gas or is it worth it, second which gun needs less matinance ie slipping disks or whatever it is, and third which one do you like better if any (I assume you like them or you wouldn't click on this thread)?

A thanks to all who post and sorry for any repetitiveness

I'm flattered you'd single me out specificially. But yes, this design does have its quirks. The WE's heavy slide is partly to blame for its gas guzzling - you can list that down as one of its other quirks - but it can be remedied by an enhanced recoil spring and some polishing of the slide guide rails.

One thought that crossed my mind, since another member mentioned it earlier before, was that once you have a metal slide on a TM Hi-Capa, you can use those CO2 mags on it, provided you upgrade to a 150% hammer spring plus a METAL slide. I haven't tried this before, though, and I'd like to see someone use WE CO2 mags on an upgraded TM Hi-Capa.

In stock form, the TM one needs less maintenance. I'll explain later, for now I have to go.

I think that's rather subjective. As there are many people who'd purchase WE and not a single problem with the internal. I'm one of them and I shoot Co2 exclusively (knock on wood!)

I do believe that some WE guns may have internal problems so we need to identity extactly where's the failiure and maybe a percentage that's reported.

You might want to add the following...

WE - Wei Tech manufacturer in Taiwan. The original Taiwanese Hi Capa 5.1 model after TM Hi Capa 5.1

5.1 Model as the following
Government
Model K
Model M
Black Dragon Type A and B
Silver Dragon Type A and B

If you see the two tone color, the retailer are probably mixing the slide between Black and Silver Dragon.

3.8 Model as the following
Model A
Model B
Model C
Model D

They are same base platform with different slide design.


AE - Release by Airsoft Elite, they purchase the body and parts from WE and re-badge them as AE. Usually comes in a plastic case. Confirmed there is a Government model (Operation Irene), Version K and a Striker model /w added compensator (Tactical Master). AE guns have their own serial numbers.

PHX - Release by Jag Precision, they purchase the body and parts from WE and rebadge then PHX. Usually comes in a metal case. Confirmed there is a Government model. Jag Precision claims the PHX model have added improvement but they didn't relase what exactly has been improved. We need further comparison on this.

I am going to buy some Red Gas (Co2) and fill it with standard mag and see if it performs better.

I just ordered a 5.1 K. I plan on testing testing out that theory.




Thanks Allizard,
Useful info, clears up a few "Who's is it?" questions. Maybe the Powers That Be could find a place tp pin this.

Well......I just got a WE hicapa 5.1 w/ported slide....and I'm very pleased with it so far, its shoots accurately, and is very fun to shoot, very nice sidearm in my case....

Ported side is the Model K. And that's the VERY first GBB I brought last year. My main weapon in CQB currently. A true work horse and it haven't fail me yet in terms of performance. That said, my AE version does have couple flaws. Not major, but can be annoying to a picky person.

1. the slide didn't lock when BB's empty in chamber. Has nothing to do with temperture. I used a dremel and rounded the notch and it seems to work better.

2. the safety grip doesn't work as intended to. I haven't been able to fix that one.

My next CQB game I'll use Black Dragon and see if it performs the same.

Where was I? Oh yes, the reason why TM Hi-Capas are not as fussy as We ones is because of the recoil spring. This is easily remedied, however, and should pose no problem if you were to upgrade to a stiffer recoil spring. WE Hi-Capa owners often complain of their pistols being gas guzzlers, this is partly due to th heavy slide, the soft recoil spring and the unpolished guide rails. Once you got those three fixed up, you'll cut gas consumption by up to 15%.

I have this friend, a fellow pistol technician, who was able to manipulate the cut-off valve in such a way that more gas was directed towards the pellet per shot. This reduced the gas guzzling by a large amount, but gave him more FPS.

Another problem with the Hi-Capa design are the sears, one such problem Allizard's Hi-Capa already seems to have. Once the sears slip, your grip safety loses its function and you'll have to open the gun up to realign them. On my previous TM Hi-Capa, I had to open my gun up around three times to realign the sears, whic slipped until I tweaked on the screws holding them to keep them in line.

Ok now for my personal problem. I want the WE Hi capa 5.1 Dragon but what is the difference between the dragon style A and B? Based on what I have seen it is the front stationary portion of the slide and the WE trademarks on the grips. Both look good to me, but do I nesecarily need co2 or is green gass good enugh with the sanding of the recoil guide rail, and replacement of the spring? Lastly where do I get the new spring?

I have all the WE guns picture from their catalog. I'll post it here when I get the chance. And that should answer some of questions between Dragon Type A and Type B.

I know some of the parts are compatible with TM Hi-Capa. Can some make a list what they are?

Here is also a video got to take apart the slide. It's quite good.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=71...81153&q=airsoft

This post has been edited by Allizard: Mar 1 2006, 04:47 PM

With the proper mods, you can get a WE Hi-Capa shooting real well, so it all comes down as a matter of preference, and if you really want to learn how your pistol's mechanics work. Yeah, just polish the rails up to get the rough coating off using 1100 grit sandpaper to reduce friction between the slide and the frame, which would result in better efficiency and less gas guzzling. The springs can be bought at Redwolf or any airsoft store you have there. Just look for the Guarder 150% enhanced spring set for Western Arms pistols. They're sure to work fine on your WE.

AOE, can you take a couple pictures where to sand the slide?! And which spring to remove?

the we is all metal
the dragon edition is Awesome
they are all good guns and airsplat sells them cheap

AOE I remember you talking about making a hi-flow valve in one of your posts as one of the top three things to make your gun better. Now I see them for sale on redwolf. Now I am skeptical about taking a dremmel to my GBB so would this valve be a good option for me or is it not "up to par" with your home made one (Things sually superior when home made). Most of my knowledge applies to rifles.


Also as far as recoil springs on redwolf thay have Firefly, Nine-ball, and PDI, The PDI looks the best. I like how they tell you only to use it in upgraded guns.

This post has been edited by Caimbridge: Mar 2 2006, 09:14 PM

I have a guide in the earlier pages somewhere, it's titled How to Tune a Western Arms .45. It should contain all of the mods you're looking for and more. By the way, some of those mods are applicable to Hi-Capas. It details some tune-ups too and lot's of pictures.



Well, my main point in why we make hi-flows out of stock valves is because why would you spend that much money on something that can be done at home for free, and would be just as effective, right? Differences in performance are just the same, as far as FPS and output are concerned, and basically your main concern in doing this project is if you have enough confidence in yourself in doing such a simple task.

Personally I don't want to upgrade the valve unless I'm using a single mag. If my gun is use for skirmish then I'll need 2 to 3 mags which I'll have to upgrade all the mags and the cost went up.

I like AOE's idea to modify the slide and change the spring. More cost effective.

I might as well adding the pictures here like a catalog.

WE Hi-Capa 5.1 Government model
Comment: Trade on the slide "OPS-M.R.P. CAL .45"


WE Hi-Capa 5.1 Type K
Comment: Ported on the slide


WE Hi-Capa 5.1 Type M
Comment:


WE Hi-Capa 5.1 Black Dragon Type A
Comment: Type A slide have ported round holes on top of gun. Also available in Silver.


WE Hi-Capa 5.1 Sliver Dragon Type B
Comment: Type B slide have ported regtangular holes on top of gun. Also available in Black.


WE Baby Capa 3.8 Type A


WE Baby Capa 3.8 Type B


WE Baby Capa 3.8 Type C


WE Baby Capa 3.8 Type D


This post has been edited by Allizard: Mar 4 2006, 03:42 AM

Airsoft Elite version. These guns are base on WE gun body.

AE Striker
Comment: only 500 are made


AE OPI III Special Limited Tactial Master
Comment: only 100 are made


AE Hi Capa 5.1 K
Comment: Exactly same as WE 5.1 K but with AE logo.

Considering the increasing popularity of the Hi-Cappa and its varients... I think I will pin this.

I WOULD however, like to see one or more of you write a little bit in here on the drawbacks and common failings of the WE HiCappas... because I KNOW they exist...

Carry on.

Thanks BP.

Here is a link to the trigger problem and it's been resolved.

http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/index.ph...&#entry16981990

And here is a guild to take apart the WE.

http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...topic=33832&hl=

Here goes the "newbie"
I normally shoot USPSA with a very well used but still great shootin STI 2011 in .40
I got a 5.1 full metal to do home practice and back yard fun(no fence ,bad idea!),don't need the cops yelling drop it or anything like that.
get to the point...........ok.
With a little pushin my STI magwell went right on,and my kydex holster and mag pouches interchange seamlessly.The feel is close and I even put a fiber optic front site on (slotted front site and super glued it)
This thing does drink the gas,I'm using propane and green gas,also got 1 co2 mag
Grip safety is iffy but mt race gun has that dissabled anyhoo..
What wa parts interchange with this?
Can I get a lighter slide?
I'm new to the airsoft thing.It is an interesting perspect on shooting.Different,cool,yet the same passion for the game(obsession).

does anyone know how to get the slide off the dragon version. I can do it on the regular 5.1 but I cant get the dragon apart

You need to take out the screw under the front slide section which then comes off. Then you just take the slide off as normal.

Sorry if this thread is supposed to be more for info and less for questions, but what does anyone think I could do about the gas consumption on a WE Dragon? I'm guessing that since the slide isn't that heavy (or is it?) that a stronger recoil spring wouldn't help. If you guys don't know, I guess I could just try it and let you know how it goes.
AOE, could you post info on how your friend manipulated the cut-off valve? I doubt I'd be able to do it myself, but it'd be good to know how.

This post has been edited by FJ2 - Kaye: Mar 11 2006, 05:30 PM

FYI... WE is working on a new slide with lighter weight. Material is aluminium or similar. I hope it will be similar to the WA metal slide from Prime.

That said, I hope they work on a better blow back chamber with a tighter seal.

has anyone seen reviews for the WE hicap AB? ive been looking for one for a while, and I cant find any

I'm not exactly sure how he did it, as you see pistol techs have their special tricks that they keep secret. I have my own, he has his, our friends have theirs. Now it's been a while since I last dismantled a Hi-Capa based gun, as I specialise more on WA Magnas at the moment, so asides from what I know about the problems of the Hi-Capa design and certain ways to improve it, I can't be of much help.

Now, sand the rails to improve gas efficiency. This will solve part of the problem, as I theorise that WE Hi-Capas, with their heavy slides, have a lot of air leaks in the gas system. This means not all the gas goes to the right places, and the system compensates by putting out more gas to make up for the leaks.

This post has been edited by AOE: Mar 15 2006, 10:25 PM

I've talked to a distributor couple days ago and he concur the blow back chamber is "Crappy" I thought he used a much stronger words than that. But yeah... he indicated the same probable cause why WE is a gas guzzler and not only because the slide is heavy.

So... we have a probable cause... what's a good solution? Use a thicker silicon in the o-ring inside for a better seal?!!!

This post has been edited by Allizard: Mar 16 2006, 12:32 AM

Is the Tm chamber any better?
and is it a direct match?

Could you shoe-horn a WA chamber in there?

Wouldn't make any difference and you'd have to worry about the excesses turning into grime which would mean more of a headache when cleaning. Grime = slowing down of components, and extra thick silicon oil would = thicker grime which would = less efficiency.

WE sucks, that's a fact.



Why bother? The barrel and chamber won't mate properly given their different designs if you try forcing a WA chamber in there. It isn't feasible, nor is it logical.

WA chamber won't fit. Not sure about TM. But either way... WE will have to lighten the weight of the slide first which I know they are looking into right now.

if your good with a dremel and have some time to kill, couldnt you just cut it up like swiss cheese to lighten it, or even just thin out maybe the top of the slide from the inside?
The creative things you do with RC racing to make cars lighter gets ya thinking.

how much lighter does it need to be?

With the dragon I have now(my first airsoft gun ever), if I leave the mag in my pocket to warm it up for a little while(im in illinois at its around freezing temp right now) the gun shoots flawlessly on whatever green gas the local shop sold me. I can get almost 60 rounds on a fill of gas, the last few I have to rack the slide by hand on, makes the gun an exspensive springer for the last 5 to 10 rounds. Me being a rookie, I don't know if thats good or not, but it suits me just fine, for shooting targets in my basement.

Ive added the bb under the hammer spring, and im picking up the 150% spring on ebay.

The one thing I couldnt figure out in the limited time I spent tinkering with AOE's WA tuning guide, was taking apart the blowback chamber and teflon taping it, does that apply to the WE? If so how do I get it apart.

This post has been edited by primussucks: Mar 17 2006, 01:57 PM

Nah, that upgrade only applies to WA guns. There are other things you can do, though, like polishing the rails if you haven't already.

is it a good idea putting red gas in the standard WE HI-CAPA mags or do I have to put it in the CO2 mags??

I actually put some Redgas in my standard mag. That didn't seems to improve much. The Co2 mag you'll need to purchase those 12 grams co2 cylinders.

I have a trick to getting a full mag of bb's on one fill of gas. This is a trick I thought of after having my co2 tanks for paintball filled. Whenever I have a co2 tank fill to get a full fill they slightly fill the tank then let it all out this cools the tank and then fill it full. as it is being filled the mag will warm back up and you will notice that more gas goes in by the sound of it. I got about 40 rds through on a single fill of green gas. I have sanded the rails so that helps also.

I'm adding AOE's link for WA mod here on this since it does apply to WE and TM.

http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/index.ph...topic=30396&hl=

And for the record, I just did the hammer spring mod and now my WE Model K kick really hard on Co2.

I'll be trying the blow black chamber mod next few days.

This post has been edited by Allizard: Mar 29 2006, 11:12 PM

Hi All

I am a new poster on here, I normally go on arnie's airsoft forums.

I have a thread on there about WE hi-capa's and in particular Dragons :

http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...showtopic=55781

I am trying to find out if normal hi-capa scope mounts can be used on them, and also if there are any Hogue wraparound grips for them.

Any info regarding accessories available for WE hi-capa dragons would be greatly appreciated.

I'll check back on this thread from time to time

:)

regards

Raj

hi all

I heard back from WGC that this scope mount will work with WE hi-capa dragons :

http://www.wgcshop.com/pcart/shopper.php?I...at_Mount%20Base

has anyone tried one of these ?

would love to see some photos of one fitted

:)

regards

Raj

How exactly does that go on?

if it attaches by screws, are you drilling holes?

yeah I noticed that too

still waiting for WGC to get back to me with some photos

I thought you'd want something that goes on the bottom rail

speaking of the bottom rail, on the dragon what can you put on it since the rail looks smooth, as in nothing for the screw of an accessory to sit in (eg it doesn't look like the rail on my G36)

well, I think that the tension from the screws being really tight will keep the mount in place. kinda like those trigger guard mounted flash/lasers

hey all

ok I got some piccies back from WGC

they are on :

http://www.ifyouask.com/gallery/v/Airsoft/dragon

here is one of them :



seems that you have to drill holes in the frame

I asked them if they will offer the drilling service and I'm waiting for feedback

regards

Raj

Everyone's talking about WEs. No TM Hi capas here? I have shot the TM 4.3 and 5.1 and overall, I feel that the TM 5.1 is either on par or better than the 4.3 in many aspects. Also, the 5.1 has abit more upgrades for it than its younger brother.

The wo main differences between the 5.1 & 4.3

1. Trigger pull is not as smooth as the 4.3. Is it because of the longer trigger, or slightly different design? There seems to be a very evident biting point for the 5.1 trigger, unlike the 4.3. This makes me unable to shoot the 5.1 as rapidly as the 4.3. What do you all think? Is there really such a problem or was my 5.1 faulty? My friend who also has the 5.1 said that his trigger pull is relatively smooth. if somebody can clear me up on this issue ill be grateful. Because I sold off my 5.1 and now if this problem is actually my own 5.1's own isolated issue, Ill definitely swap my 4.3 for another 5.1.

2. The 4.3 has a smaller profile, bob tail, slide length, etc. which is better for manuverability and not as cumbersome for some ppl.

Overall, I think the 5.1 is a much better sidearm than the 4.3. The 5.1 has adjustable rear sight too! With the 4.3 you can only adjust hop up. And 5.1 can install the meat basher heheh. Plus other small advantages.

I would suggest keep looking for a different rail. I know they are out there and require no drilling. You might have to search under real steel 1911 mount. Good luck.

if anyone knows of a scope mount that will fit the WE dragon range and also a threaded barrel for silencer attachment, please let me know

:)

Has anyone run into safety lever issues with these guns? I have a AE 5.1 that I am working on that the 2 piece safety lever is loose on the right (off) side. The right side is somewhat loose, and seems to be bending the triangular piece that it cams onto on the left side.

Anyone else run into this?

Has anyone tried a real steel replacement ambi safety on this???

TIA!

I have the same EXACT issue and I also have the AE 5.1k. It's not my top prioity list of stuff to fix but I'll look into it after I have done with the piston mod.

can someone point me in the direction of a speed loader for my hicapa mags?
or do your really have to load one at a time?

http://www.airsoftextreme.com/store/index....roducts_id=2036

Well ive got one like that, not the TM one, and it doesnt work too well. The attachment is cheesy and it would work better if I had 3 hands.

Although I did notice if I pull the spring all the way down, the opening in the mag gets wider and I can load the bbs with ease through the bottom.

This post has been edited by primussucks: Apr 13 2006, 10:18 AM

Id like to know about the magazine vairants.

I know there is the:

5.1 Magazine: 31 rd.
5.1 CO2 Magazine: 36 rd.
3.8 Magazine: 25 rd.

Will 5.1 magazines work in the 3.8 Baby?
Will they stick out of the bottom slightly (any picutres of this?), and same for the 5.1 CO2 magazine.

How many shots can be gotten off 1 of those cylinders of CO2 in the CO2 magazine?
How many shots can be gotten of a full 5.1 mag filled with propane/green gas? A 3.8 (I think they hold less gas)

Someone posted pics of 3.8 babys and I wanted to know if there were different configurations for the types of grip?



This is the ported barrel with the pattern grip - does it sell like this or did they just swap?

That is the way it is made by WE.

my friend had gotten the baby a few weeks ago with a spare c02 5.1 mag. the baby can take any mag because its the smallest gun of all the WE Hi Capas. the c02 mag did stick out pretty far. but I wouldnt worry about it, it is well worth it. I do believe they make 2 different styles too, they have different designs on the grip. my friend usually got 2 or 2.5 clips full with the 5.1 c02 mag with one cylinder. (about 72-90 shots).

There are total of 8 different Baby HiCapa... I only posted the first four in the same thread. The other 4 are all silver color and I'll post them shortly.

Anyone else had BB's just roll out the barrel? Mine will shoot the first shot, and then on the BB's will just roll out the barrel. I checked my hopup, and it being loose isn't the problem.

If you bb is rolling out of the barrel than 99% is your hopup got a problem.

I just had an issue with BBs rolling out the barrell. I have found the problem and might have a fix for it, but I havent done enough testing to know if it works good enough.

But the issue was that the small valve looking thing inside of the loading nozzle, was getting stuck closed, so no air was getting to the barrell but only operating the block back action.

This was happening with the "upgraded PGC Loading Nozzle" and the Shooters Design aluminum piston head, I also have the 150% recoil springs installed. When I put the stock parts on it doesnt happen as much.

The fix that I did was to find a washer of sorts that fits around the valve part so that it is a little bit wider, and wont get stuck in the hole of the loading nozzle, it took a little dremel work to make it fit tight enough so that it wasnt bouncing around inside the gun. Ive fired a few mags through with fairly good results, but im not sure its a permanat fix yet.

Anyone else have this problem?

more questions from me
http://www.wgcshop.com/pcart/shopper.php?I...cat_RCC%20Parts


this looks a whoooole lot like the part I just put a washer around( see my post above) but is it the same on the 226 as it is on the hi capa?

ok so I got a WE hi-capa K from jungletoy.. gun looks good however it seems to be having issues. When shooting I get off 6-7 shots the first 2 shots I get sprayed by a little gas on my hand and arm. Then the gun starts to fire with no bb's coming out which then makes the mag releases all the gas or the hammer only cocks back half way. The mag is ice cold and temp of my garage is about 60 degrees. The slide never locks back when empty even if I put in only like 3 bb's. If anyone knows what is going on that would be great.

Your blow back chamber is leaking gas and it doesn't have a good seal.

I am not 100% sure will this work but take the slide off and check under the chamber. There is a nozzle that can slide forward. Underneath is a screw and check if it's loose. Tighten it, put it back and try firing again.

I removed the slide and lubed the blowback chamber and oring. Still when I shoot 7-10 shots ( not rapid firing) some are blanks ( slide didnt go back far enough to load the bb )and I hear a hissss then the hammer is half way back. When I had the slide off I checked and the sliding operation seems to bind up a little also that little screw was tight.

Do you have a different mag you can try?! Need to know if the problem coming from the mag or the slide.

I do not have another mag.. I wish I would have bought another though. Is there anyway I can look at the mag I have to vierify correct operation.

ALRIGHT !!! I got it working good now.. Polished the points where the slide contacts the frame, put in a weaker spring ( actually 2 because I couldnt find a 5 inch spring at hardware store ) and lubed the hell out of it.. When I shoot now there is good power for at least 15 shots and the slide locks back on last shot.. The weaker spring I think is what did it but now it doesnt feel as solid when the slide comes back but I guess I can live with that considering its working better now.. I may put a spacer on the spring because it was just a hair shorter.. Can I buy a slightly weaker spring than stock.. I know alot of people are putting in stiffer springs but I cant imagine the gun working correctly.

***UPDATE***

I cut 5-6 coils off of the stock recoil spring and streched it just a little bit then I reassembled the gun.. I can get about 40 shots on a 5 second mag fill.. If I rapid fire I can only get about 30 and the slide will lock back on last shot.. With the weaker stock spring installed it seems to kick ALOT harder.

This post has been edited by zoomin0074: Apr 29 2006, 04:42 PM

On my dragon, Im not getting full blow back, unless I push up on the mag with my left hand, it happens with all three of my mags, anyone else having this issue?
anyone got a fix for it?

Yeah, if anyone else is having that problem, please tell me because thats the coolest part of this gun, lol.

Having more issues with this gun.. Now it appears that the mag is leaking from the back where the hammer hits it.. Anyone know how to fix it.. I have already sprayed silicone lube on it ( thats how I found the leak ). It doesnt leak at first, but if I shoot it a couple of times it starts to leak.. Is there a special tool to unscrew that valve? If anyone has diagrams of the mag or pictures of disassembling it that would be great.

Hey guys, I also have a question on the dragon. I am getting it for 180 with shipping from airsplat. This includes 2 cans of green, a c02 mag, and shipping. However, upon reviewing the picture from airsplat, what is that brown thing on the grip? Its FUGLY! Here is the link. http://www.airsplat.com/Items/GP-WE-HiCapa-DA.htm

Do you think it is removable?

For the love of /THOU SHALT NOT USE MY NAME IN VAIN/ why do people still buy from airsplat. Have you not seen all the airsplat reviews floating around the forums? Why would you even risk it?

To address your post, the thing on the grip is actually chrome and it's a magwell shroud (or something like that) and yes it is removable.

Airsplat has not proved me wrong... I can't find the c02 mag anywhere else, so thats why I am buying from airsplat. Also... They have it for only 110. Can anyone find a site that has it for under 120 and sells the c02 mag?

Nevermind, I found it from "Speedy Toys" for 130 and they sold the mag aswell. However, I see that speedy toys has two models. The WE Silver Dragon Metal 1911 Airsoft and the Custom Slide version. I put both pictures up in a microsoft document and they look the same to me, what is the diference though?

Scroll all the way to very bottom for the two versions.
http://www.speedytoys.com/shop/category.asp?catid=2

Custom Slide:
http://www.speedytoys.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=508&catid=2
Normal Version:
http://www.speedytoys.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=366&catid=2

C02 Mag:
http://www.speedytoys.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=319&catid=10
Normal Mag:
http://www.speedytoys.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=318&catid=10


EDIT:Whoa, wait! Now I see they have a "Ported Slide" Whats that?!?! Here is the link...
http://www.speedytoys.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=384&catid=2

This post has been edited by Heaven'sSniper: May 3 2006, 12:34 PM

The difference you can see in the stationary part of the slide at the front where the sight is, one has round holes, the other has oval shaped holes on the top of it behind the sight, its just for looks nothing more.

The third pic you posted looks like its the same as round hole version.

Ohhh I see! I like the round hole/ported slide better. Thanks!

so some clarification here
these guns have no problem using green gas
more specifically the dragons?
and shoot around 315 FPS

Yes, they all shoot around 315 FPS, and they all are built for green gas.

Does anyone have any experience with propane in the cold? Does it hold up better in the cold than green gas?

This post has been edited by Heaven'sSniper: May 4 2006, 02:56 PM

My mag wont fill with ANY gas. It started out as a normal little leak. I added some silicone oil but it kept getting worse. I think think the oring inside is gone because there is NO seal what so ever. Now, when I try to fill it...propane just flies all over the place and nothing gets into the mag. What can I do? thanks!

Another thing, don't buy WE grips from overseas. The 2 I've owned have both cracked on me.

Alright, thats good to know.

Also, do you guys reccomend buying a metal slide for the dragon?

I believe the whole WE line is already full metal
so I think they already have a metal slide

I thought so also, but then people were saying how much a metal slide would help? Im CoNfUsEd!

People where? They might be talking about the Marui Hi-Capa.

Oh, maybe. Anyway, do you guys think this is a good deal?

http://www.evike.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv...ode=PKG_GP_WEV5

btw, the brown thing is a reflection haha
the bottom is chrome..........thats how shiny it is

oops slow comp load.......double posted

This post has been edited by Satanicsanta090: May 7 2006, 04:18 PM

Alright, now I am starting to hear bad things about the WE Dragon in the winter... Can anyone give some information on this things performance in the cold?

There pretty bad in the cold, most WE guns are. Unless you shoot very slowly you will have some issues.


Also I have a question on my mag.My mag wont fill with ANY gas. It started out as a normal little leak. I added some silicone oil but it kept getting worse. I think think the oring inside is gone because there is NO seal what so ever. Now, when I try to fill it...propane just flies all over the place and nothing gets into the mag. What can I do? thanks!

does anyone know if the tm or we hi caps will shoot through only one side of a pop can? if you have one of the hi caps, could you take some time whenever and just shoot one bb at point blank into the can, and tell me what happens. at my wars I go to the rule is that the fps is "too high" if it goes through both sides, no exceptions. the limit isnt that bad seeing as the wars are cqb, and id rather not be shot with an upgraded SAW at point blank range.

thanks (in advance

Tested it for you last night, my dragon with 150% springs, Steel Piston head, PGC loading Nozzel and Gaurder High flow Valve went throw one side and put a tear in the other side.
This was done in my basement at about 60 degrees, in warmer weather I think it will go through both sides, plus the gun isnt working perfect, my bone stock beat to crap, non dragon only goes through one side, and dents the other a little.

I don't really know anything about gas guns. does that mean that your dragon shoots faster than stock?

If the o-ring is gone you'll need to replace it. Get a replacement Valve. or try our luck at hardware store for a 0-ring. Otherwise, there isn't much you can do about it.






His dragon shoot harder than stock because it's got a stronger hammer springs and hi flow valve.

Well my gun "should" shoot pretty hard, but it doesnt work right, I guess thats what happens when you fiddle with stuff lol.

Ive been poishing this oiling that, sanding this, takeing apart putting together trying differnt parts, new orings, differnt mags, differnt bbs, warming up mags, and nothing seems to work. One BB at a time it shoots good, but its like a springer, I have to cock it by hand.

One issue im having is that my loading nozzle doesnt seem to be springing back, it gets stuck on the hop up rubber, then as the slide recoils back the loading nozzle sticks in the inner barrel which causes two things to happen, first the loading nozzle spring gets compressed so much that it sticks and the nozzle doesnt return to its starting position, and second because the nozzle isnt going all the way back, its not loading the next bb into the chamber.

I just happen to have two nozzle springs so I tried cutting a piece of one and putting that in there as well as the full size but it doesnt seem to be helping. I hope to get to a hardware store and maybe pick up a little bit stiffer spring.

The truth is.. all GAS gun perform poorly on cold temperture. The concept is quite simple. Heat will expand gas and cause higher pressure. Cold will do just the opposit. So in winter, your gas gun will loose pressure and not able to shoot as well. I use a Western Arms Xcelerator fully upgraded to light weight aluminum slide and it's shooting 330 fps in normal room temperture. I took it out for a night game, I couldn't even empty the entire mag before all the gas in release. It was about 50 degree and the mag is ice cold.

As for WE guns. They are all metal. It's even more heavy than my WA Xcelerator. In order for a gas gun to release enough engergy to move the slide back plus push the the BBS out of the chamber need a lot of pressure. If you have one of the older model like Government 1911, M and K the slide is quite heavy. Dragon is a little better. So you can imagine they will have sluggish performance in the cold.

However, one of the advantage of WE is their Co2 Mag. You can use it in cooler weather to compensate the performance. In normal Room Temperture, Co2 mag will increase the FPS from 300-310 (Green) to 340-350(co2). Also, I notice Co2 have less cool down affect.

so... if you want to use the Dragon in cooler temperture. Use the Co2 mag.

Alright, yes, you are right. All gas guns perform "unsatisfactory" in the winter to say the least. I also know about the heat and the cold and stuff, trust me I am not stuipid. However, I also have heard that the Dragon is a bad gun for a cool climate. I have heard down to only 7 shots with a full fill of gas in 32*. As you will know, New Hampshire just is not the place for this gun.

I am looking into an Infinity 6 Inch instead. I have heard some bad things about the WE and I am convinced that it is not the gun for me. The WA with the tightbore barrel and all its other nice qualities suites me better.

This post has been edited by Heaven'sSniper: May 10 2006, 04:11 PM

don't you mean WA?

We would all be buying the WA guns if we were made of money. I would like to have an Expert 5in, but the with the price of mags and the gun itself I couldnt afford it, with all my other toys.

But these WE guns give me something to tinker with, one day ill get a WA but not in the near future.

This post has been edited by primussucks: May 10 2006, 04:07 PM

Ah, sorry, I meant WA. Dude, check out WGC Shop, they are selling the 5 inch for 130 and the 6 inch for onlt 142! Mags are still pricey and out of stock, but thats what BIRTHDAYS ARE FOR! Lol, just kidding, but still, check those babys out. Silver only with red for the 5 inch, and only red/purple/green for 6inch.

That's pretty low temperture. you might want to look into TM AEP guns. No blow back but at least they work great. Or get a MP5K.

Nah, I am getting this gun BECAUSE of blowback. Does anyone have information on the WGC Shop? Is it reliable?

Well.. sorry I haven't keep up to date with the tread. WE have release a few more Baby Hicapa in Silver. couple months ago. It's starting to show up here in US.











Also... this is GREAT news.

WE have just release 3 more new Hicapa in 4.3 format. And guess what. They have lighten the weight on the slide. Now using Alumimium.
I'll have more pictures coming.

Oh... and one more picture of the 7" Dragon.


This post has been edited by Allizard: May 12 2006, 12:24 PM

If the 4.3 is really aluminum then we could anodize it, and everyone knows anodizing is fun.

Heres the 4.3 looks good

This post has been edited by primussucks: May 16 2006, 09:03 AM