Getting the gun
When I first got my CA36 from the local sir plus, I was thrilled at what treasure I found lay inside. I had held the gun in the store many times before, and was amazed by the weight, solidness, uniform color, and general feel in comparison to my primary weapon before the 36c, a tokyo marui AEP.

I was thrilled when I added the money from my birthday to my little pocket of savings, and found I had enough money to purchase the gun. Upon returning home, I immediately put the battery in the charger while I inspected my new weapon, every crevice and crack and orifice.

first impressions
When the battery had finally finished charging, I had cleaned the barrel and inspected every word and detail of the gun. I found a few holes on the bottom of my stock, which I found out later to be on the real steel, to be used to hold tools when dissasembling your gun. I had found the hop-up adjuster by pulling back the cocking lever, which broke within the first day. However, This did not do much and was mostly cosmetic, and I could still pull back the lever with my finger, much as you do with a FAMAS.

When my battery had finished charging, I tried to get it into my gun. It took me a good ten minuts to get the foregrip over the battery and get the pin in, but I eventually got it with much worring and gnashign of teeth. Once I got it in, though, it was amazing.

shooting the gun
I took my new prize outside to a heavily wooded area (far away from any roads or communities, I might add) to test fire it. I was amazed by the rate of fire (I would estimate around 600 rpm) and accuracy on single shot, but was dissapointed with the accuracy on auto. I liked the adjustable iron sights, and was amazed at how small the weapon was with the stock folded in. The hi-cap that came with the gun was very large (470 rounds) and durable.

After a bit of shooting, I found a rotted pumpkin and started shooting it. I was amazed by the result. the first shot on single tore a giant hole down the side of the pumpkin. On a short burst of auto, peices of rotten pumpkin stared flying everywhere. I was amazed by the fps of this weapon

differences with the Tokyo Marui
I was origionally going to purchase the Tokyo Marui G36c, but then later changed my mind. Probably the most important factor of my desicion was the durability and strength of the gun. I had heard many reports of Tokyo Marui hi-caps breaking and of the plastic being a lower quality. I also knew someone with a CA M15, and I loved the nice, metal finish. Although I knew that the CA36c would be mostly fiberglass and plastic (the real steel is not metal), I wasnted to get the best weapon I could. Also, Classic Armys are known for their high fps, while TM has been noted by some to have a lower fps. The fps of my AEP was terrible, and it did not really work anywhere. I knew the TM 36c would be higher than the AEP, but I wanted to step the fps of the 36c up even higher and get the Classic Army. Another reason I got the CA was the ease and availability of upgrades.

Uses
I would probably only use this as a cqb or a woodland weapon, because of the inaccuracy on full auto and size. However, you could still probably use this at a medium range for cover fire, some single shots, and sending a huge barrage of plastic downfield. On single fire, though, this gun can compete with many longer weapons.

Acessories/upgrades
Like all CA's, there are tons of upgrades available for this gun. Springs, mechboxes, you name it. most of the mechbox doesn't even have to be upgraded, though, unless you are looking for a higher fps. And with all the rails, you can put to 3 different acessories (with the 3 rail foregrip) and one optic sight, like a red dot or scope or reflex sight.

Magazine
When I got the gun, I filled up the hi-cap mag and started cranking. after about 30 cranks, I put the mag in the gun. It clicked in with a positive *snap* and was extremely secure. there is no chance of the mag falling out with this gun. Also, the mag release is behind the mag instead of by your finger, so there is no chance of accidentaly pressing it like I would do with my AEP. The TM standard cap mag comes with fake plastic bullets, which the CA lacked. Also, there were pegs on one side. On the other side, there were holes and grooves to clip the pegs of another mag into, giving you your own mag clamps. It is important to note, however, that if you have a magazine clamped to the right of the one inside your gun, you will not be able to fold the stock and lock it.

Fire Selector
THe Classic Army G36c had a standard mp5-like fire selector switch, with a white bullet with an X through it for safe, one red bullet for sigle, and numerous red bullets for auto. It clicked definitaly into place and was very sturdy feeling. There will be no way for the switch to jiggle into another position, or for you to accidentaly switch it to auto when you wanted to switch it to semi. However, the click is awfully lound and may alert opposing forces if you are near them.

Foregrip/Battery
The foregrip was made of the nice, dull plastic/fiberglass as the rest of the body. Mine came with 3 rails, although I'm pretty sure that the standard gun only comes with one of the foregrip (more on that later). It slid off an one easily without the battery, but was a bit harder to get one and off with the battery. It was very hard to get the pin into the gun to begin with, but eventually it became easier. There will be no chance of the foregrip falling of in the middle of a war, for sure. Also, it is very easy to pinch wires in this gun. Classic Army even anticipated this, and the wires leasing to the battery can be removed very easily. replaement wires are very cheap, less than 10 dollars. To avoid pinching wires in the first place, rest the battery on the plastic lip where the barrel disapears into the gun. IO havenever pinched a wire doing this, and as long as you are looking out for it, you'll be fine. However, after a bit of straining to get the battery in, I noticed that the foregrip was starting to split across the top. I do not think that this will be much of a problem, because it can be easily fixed and is already renforced by the handstop and bottom rail. Also, with the rails and battery, the gun is slightly front-heavy, and may be even more so with accesories. This can be prevented by adding a vertical foregrip.

Overall ratings
Accuracy(single shot)
8/10: Nothing special about it, good but not excelent. I could hit a man easily from 50 feet.

Accuracy(fully automatic)
6/10: a little dissapointed here, but the first shot always flew straight.

feel
10/10: no creaks, rattles, sound, or anything. It had a nice, dull, solid feel.

Rate of Fire
9/10: great rate of fire with the standard 8.4v battery.

weight
10/10: almost the exact same weight as the real steel.

Overall
9/10

Pros/cons
Pros
1. Extremely sturdy
2.Great fps
3. Great rate of fire
4. Good iron sights
5. Good upgradeability
6. Many rails
7. Good quality magazine.
8. Good plastic/exterior
9. Extremely durable
10. very flexible with all the rails, length, accuracy, and folding stock.
11. many metal parts.
12. Good folding stock, can be a good-sized rifle or small SMG with folded stock.
13. Good fire selector and foregrip.

cons
1.Splitting foregrip.
2. Hard to get the battery in to begin with, but it becomes easier.
3. Not a super-strong upper optic rail.
4. unaccurate on full auto.
5. Slightly front-heavy, but can be prevented with a vertical foregrip.

Here are some pics, couresy of Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/28531317 @ N00/
If you can copy the entire line above, paste it into your URL, then delete the spaces around the @ sign, it should take you there. Sorry, but ASF won't let me put anything that looks like an email adress.

Also, it is important to note that in the pictures, my gun has 3 rails on the foregrip. I am not sure why, because all the pics I have seen before buying the gun had one rail on the foregrip. I am pretty good frieds with they guy that sold me the gun at sir plua, but an not sure if he accedentaly forgot to take off the 3 rail foregrip that was displayed on the gun or jsut tried to give me the rails, but for the standard cost, it should only come with the bottom rail I think.

This post has been edited by Ataturk: Nov 24 2006, 06:30 PM