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> Damn, gearbox housing cracked!, MP5K Galaxy
mp5k
post Mar 10 2012, 04:33 AM
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Man Im pissed off,I just noticed the gearbox housing on my Galaxy MP5K Gearbox isd badly cracked open at the front of it theres only 1 side and half the bottom holding it together.

can this be fixed or do I need to go buy a new Version 3 ? gearbox housing.........
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alberty
post Mar 10 2012, 05:37 AM
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I recommend buying a new V3 gearbox shell instead of trying to repair your broken one. The broken one is probably made of pot metal so even with a successful repair it might just break in another way eventually.

Keep in mind though, you need to keep the faux motor plate piece from the broken shell since the MP5K AEG uses the slightly-different V3 gearbox.


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mp5k
post Mar 10 2012, 06:34 AM
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Im wondering if it broke cause I upgraded the battery to 9.6 v and on full auto has been too much punishment or if its just done this over time from crap materials used?.

Im going to try fix it up and see how it goes then if it fails I'll try find a stronger shell of some sort and change over all the parts, though ive never taken one apart yet and not looking forward to it......
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this is my boom ...
post Mar 10 2012, 08:51 AM
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Sorry bro but that's not really fixable.
Crap materials, the 9.6 just made it happen sooner.
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Lefse
post Mar 10 2012, 09:07 AM
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Definitely crap metal, the GB shell in my TM MP5K has easily survived thousands of rounds with an M120 spring at 25 rps, and there are no signs of cracks whatsoever.
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Automobilie
post Mar 10 2012, 11:15 AM
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Another busted v.3 gearbox. You deserve a medal those things are usually pretty hardy.


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airborne101
post Mar 10 2012, 12:01 PM
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There is a video somewhere of AirsoftHawaii breaking a V3 gearbox with one hand. Your gearbox is just made out of extremely cheap/weak metal. If you replace it with something decent now, you will avoid future headaches.


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buppus
post Mar 10 2012, 12:32 PM
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Yea, the Galaxy v.3 is crap compared to most other v.3's, but it's still most likely that you just got an especially turdy one (maybe some bubbling or inconsistent sintering around the fault area).

This is why we always recommend sorbo pads for AoE correction, as well as cyinder window radiusing.

You should be able to replace it with a standard v.3 shell, just keep your proprietary parts (selector plate and motor retention mechanism).

This post has been edited by buppus: Mar 10 2012, 12:33 PM


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airsofthawaii
post Mar 10 2012, 01:59 PM
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Haha, I second the build quality thing. I used to tinker with those Galaxy Mp5ks, your best bet is to upgrade to something at least slightly better. Even a Dboys 7mm shell would be a major upgrade from the shell that broke.

With age pot metal just gets weaker and softer/brittle. I Think, it's because it oxidizes or something, but yes it sucks. I also have a TM shell from 2006 that is still going strong in multiple setups. I just don't use it now because the threads stripped.

^lawl, it was an old JG Ver. 2 shell, I think thinner than Ver. 3 shell walls, but same idea.


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aleksandar
post Mar 10 2012, 05:38 PM
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Sory to jack this thread, but it will help him out too perhaps, does anyone know where we could get a steel v.3 gearbox for cheep? I was hoping to get one for under $40. Mine broke as well (E1 AK74un).

This post has been edited by aleksandar: Mar 10 2012, 05:40 PM


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mp5k
post Mar 10 2012, 07:34 PM
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Ive been googling for ages and ages to try find a Full complete MP5K Gearbox that I could just drop straight in but it appears that cant buy one complete for the MP5K for some reason!? this would make life so much easier.

If anyone knows if you can buy the MP5K Gearbox complete and preferably upgraded PLEASE let me know,I don't trust myself being skilled enough to swap all the parts over to another shell,failing this I'll try track down someone selling parts off a Galaxy and buy their gearbox.....

This post has been edited by mp5k: Mar 10 2012, 07:50 PM
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Jerichow
post Mar 10 2012, 07:46 PM
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This is making me happy that I swapped the gearbox out of my galaxy before even testing it lol.

Just get a new gearbox - really any V3 will work to be honest, and will work better than Galaxy's. Make sure when you get a new shell, if it has that little 'hook' on the outside directly under where the base of the spring guide goes, to remove that. I had a JG G36 gearbox that had that little hook on it, it had to be removed before putting it in the gun.

Also, yes your gearbox was crap, the 9.6v did make it happen sooner. The 8.4v would have done it too, would have just taken a little longer.

Just get some 70D sorbo and redo your cylinder head while you rebuild your gearbox, it'll make sure this never happens again.


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mp5k
post Mar 11 2012, 12:38 AM
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Im looking for any links to good/clear info and pics of taking apart and putting back together the Ver 3 box incase I have to replace the Gearbox frame myself,which will probably be the case but not looking forward to it.

I think I can handle taking it apart but I fear being able to correctly put it back together! especially the trigger assembly.


What is a good really strong ver 3 gearbox frame thats recomended,plus how some say they have like 8mm bearings etc do you have to then buy other parts to suit?,I mean if your current box runs 6mm bearings and you swap all your internals to an 8mm bearing gearbox do your internals just drop directly in?....Im pretty new to AEG's


Alternatively if I were to buy just any complete Ver 3 gearbox what do I then have to remove from my current gearbox and re-use on the new box= Air Nozzle,trigger,Selector Plate,motor cage end?,are these the MP5K Specific parts?? its seems you can not buy a full complete MP5K gearbox anywhere on earth

This post has been edited by mp5k: Mar 11 2012, 12:45 AM
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buppus
post Mar 11 2012, 01:36 AM
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Yea you are correct about the MP5K parts, and as far as ease of installation its the air nozzle that's gonna get you... I've never seen a drop-in MP5K replacement gearbox, so even if you buy another complete GB you'll have to open it to swap the nozzle.

Therefore, you're better off just replacing the shell - almost any standard v3 will do, and @ aleksandar - you're not going to find a steel GB - maybe CNC aluminum, but even that's overkill... I would grab a JG or dboys or something.

I recommend a 7mm shell - they're cheap and reliable. That means you'll need new metal 7mm bushings with that (don't use ball-bearings), and a set of gear shims to redo your shimming. The rest of the parts you can just transfer right over to the new shell. While you're in there do the mods mentioned above - install sorbo, correct piston AoE, radius cylinder window corners, adjust your motor height, and check your airseal. The pinned thread about internal tweaks and mods will give you what you need to know.

The trigger can be tricky, but just be patient and get a second set of hands to help when you need to reassemble. You'll get it. Check youtube for video guides.


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Jerichow
post Mar 11 2012, 02:01 AM
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The easiest way to replace the trigger on V3's I've seen is:

1: Rebuild the gearbox without the trigger so all you have to do now is place a trigger in it.
2: pop the lower half open just a mm or two, just enough to start wedging the trigger in at an angle.
3: Put the spring into the gearbox so it sits in the retention hole it's supposed to.
4: Put the two pieces to the trigger together and then try to place the trigger into the gearbox. You will need to be patient with it but with either my G36's or my MP5k this works very well for me.

Also when getting the new gearbox, this may go without saying but consider newer/better bushings as well. I know my galaxy came with 6mm metal bushings but all of my gearboxes use 7mm.


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"The path of least resistance is the past of least reward."

QUOTE (Slippy @ Jan 6 2012, 07:39 PM) *
Version 6 is my favorite, version 3's trigger assembly is a punch to the nuts.

QUOTE (BigEd @ Nov 6 2011, 06:53 AM) *
I am 40 now... I enjoy airsoft artillery support. One shot = Seven kills.
My version of CQB is leveling the entire building.
///ed///
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Lefse
post Mar 11 2012, 10:08 AM
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Hm, it's the anti-reversal latch that makes me rage, the trigger assembly usually isn't a big issue for me. You just gotta combine strength and control and it'll pop into place.

The anti reversal latch is the single mechanical device I hate more than anything else in the universe! ranting2.gif
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Penguin_Mojito
post Mar 11 2012, 10:21 AM
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IIRC Major9 carries Lonex Ver.3 Gearboxes (Not completely sure its Lonex, Might be something else) for a low price.


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Scatterplot
post Mar 12 2012, 12:46 PM
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Look at the Modify antireversal latches. They have a clip on the spring that keeps it from popping off- best $10 I've ever spent. I've taken to adding one of those every time I work on a gearbox just because the standard ones are such a pain.

http://www.trinityairsoft.com/p-1327-modif...h-for-aegs.aspx

I got mine from there, but they seem to be out of stock at the moment.
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mp5k
post Mar 13 2012, 04:37 AM
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QUOTE (Scatterplot @ Mar 12 2012, 01:46 PM) *
Look at the Modify antireversal latches. They have a clip on the spring that keeps it from popping off- best $10 I've ever spent. I've taken to adding one of those every time I work on a gearbox just because the standard ones are such a pain.

http://www.trinityairsoft.com/p-1327-modif...h-for-aegs.aspx

I got mine from there, but they seem to be out of stock at the moment.



Nice!!, is this the real headache of putting gearboxes back together= the Anti reversal latch itself?? and you have to somehow release that latch before you take the gearbox apart don't you?.

Shimming the gears looks to be pretty complicated to get it just right,from memory when re-installing the gears they have be pointing a specific direction too?
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alberty
post Mar 13 2012, 04:44 AM
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QUOTE (mp5k @ Mar 13 2012, 05:37 AM) *
Nice!!, is this the real headache of putting gearboxes back together= the Anti reversal latch itself?? and you have to somehow release that latch before you take the gearbox apart don't you?.

No, you don't need to do anything with the anti-reversal latch to disassemble the gearbox. However, some people do, if possible, "pop" the AR latch in case the piston/spring is not reset before opening the gearbox. It's not always possible or easy so you don't really have to do so. Of course, you just don't want the spring guide flying across the room when you do get the shell open, and having the piston/spring in the forward position reduces the chance of that happening. More commonly you would just cycle the gearbox to that position, unless something had made your gearbox stuck in the first place.

Reassembling is annoying if the AR latch keeps popping out so some people do like to temporarily put a magnet on the outside of the shell to hold down the latch while trying to close the shell.


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airborne101
post Mar 13 2012, 10:36 AM
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Shimming isn't had, it is just tedious and time consuming. It still takes me an hour, and sometimes more, (maybe because I am picky and careful) to shim a gearbox. Expect your first time to take you a little while. As much as it sucks to do, it is important to do so in order to get the most life out of your gun. There is a guide in my sig on how to do it properly. (Also happens to be a guide on how to pop the ARL)

The gears do not have to be anywhere specific in the gearbox since the gears are designed to reset to a certain position once you fire the gun once. That being said, it makes it much easier if you install the sector gear so that the nub that pulls back the tappet plate is somewhere in the 1-2 o-clock position. Basically set it so that the gear is not engaging either the tappet plate or the piston teeth.


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mp5k
post Mar 31 2012, 05:18 AM
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Well I got the MP5K going again but after fixing the shell with steel epoxy it broke again after 20 shots or so!,I now have no choice and will have to swap over all the parts to another shell myself but not looking forward to it!.

Ive just fitted a KM 170mm barrel and gun now shoots with much lower fps!?,I re -used the stock galaxy hop up bucking and made it into a flat hop and suspect this is why the power is lower,with the hop up turned on :the gun had half the power as it used to ,I then turned hop up completely off and it gained a little power.

Looks like I need a new bucking and gearbox shell of some sort?

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Lefse
post Mar 31 2012, 05:25 AM
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What kind of cylinder did you use with the barrel? The cylinder/barrel volume ratio is very important with such short barrels. In my MP5K I got only 280fps with an M120 spring, because I was using an unported cylinder. With the stock cylinder I got approx 380fps.



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mp5k
post Mar 31 2012, 05:50 AM
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QUOTE (Lefse @ Mar 31 2012, 06:25 AM) *
What kind of cylinder did you use with the barrel? The cylinder/barrel volume ratio is very important with such short barrels. In my MP5K I got only 280fps with an M120 spring, because I was using an unported cylinder. With the stock cylinder I got approx 380fps.


Just the stock Galaxy MP5K Cylinder and upgraded the barrel from 110mm to 170mm so its only 60mm longer,I thought Id get a slight increase in power but it definately didnt do that!?,still using the stock M100 spring.

When I put the stock Bucking back in it looked a little mis shapen where the air nozzle slides in as the rubber used is pretty crap but when I slid the air nozzle in it,it seemed to seal fine...

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post Mar 31 2012, 06:36 AM
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How did you test the airsel? I test the airseal by putting the assembled barrel and hop-up into the gearbox and blow air into it with my mouth. If I'm unabel to blow any air into the cylinder through the barrel and hop-up, then there are no leaks. Yeah,it may seem a bit weird to some people, but it works.
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mp5k
post Mar 31 2012, 06:55 AM
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QUOTE (Lefse @ Mar 31 2012, 06:36 AM) *
How did you test the airsel? I test the airseal by putting the assembled barrel and hop-up into the gearbox and blow air into it with my mouth. If I'm unabel to blow any air into the cylinder through the barrel and hop-up, then there are no leaks. Yeah,it may seem a bit weird to some people, but it works.

Doesnt matter now,I have to find a decent gearbox shell,learn how to shim!? and figure out how to get it back together,parts sort of popped out when I opened it up so now not sure what goes where??!.

I'll buy a new hop up bucking as well= what gearbox shell do you guys recomend thats strong but wont send me broke!?

EDIT: Just tried your method of testing the hop up seal and it was fully airtight,so looks like I wasted my money on the 170mm KM barrel! its making fps drop!

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hunterseeker5
post Mar 31 2012, 10:14 AM
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QUOTE (aleksandar @ Mar 10 2012, 05:38 PM) *
Sory to jack this thread, but it will help him out too perhaps, does anyone know where we could get a steel v.3 gearbox for cheep? I was hoping to get one for under $40. Mine broke as well (E1 AK74un).


Ha. Cheap? Right...... I looked into building a cobalt chromium steel GB the other day. Totally not worth the price. Just buy a new one, a decent one, and use sorbo like the rest of us. If I can run an SP170 on a V2, I think you'll manage whatever you're doing on a V3. ;)


If you're really paranoid doesn't supershooter make a "CNC'd" V3? I know they do a V2 and, while people complain its cast and only CNC finished, in testing it performed better than our usual suite of cast crap GBs.


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mp5k
post Apr 1 2012, 01:20 AM
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Does anyone know an email address or website for Galaxy Airsoft,so I can try buy a new MP5K Gearbox to get my gun going again asap ,ive googled all day and just can not find a gearbox!?? surely you can get Galaxy spares somewhere!???.......................HELP
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Jerichow
post Apr 1 2012, 03:29 AM
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QUOTE (mp5k @ Apr 1 2012, 01:20 AM) *
Does anyone know an email address or website for Galaxy Airsoft,so I can try buy a new MP5K Gearbox to get my gun going again asap ,ive googled all day and just can not find a gearbox!?? surely you can get Galaxy spares somewhere!???.......................HELP


You don't want another Galaxy shell...

1: We have said more than once, any V3 will work(lonex, jg, echo 1, etc etc etc)

2: You don't want a Galaxy gearbox... they're garbage. I took mine apart immediately and could tell the difference between it and my 2+ year old JG shell that was to replace it. Go to a typical airsoft retailer and get a V3 shell, or just get a V3 gearbox altogether, take out what you don't need and replace the MP5k parts as necessary, keeping spares of the others. Another gearset is never a bad thing to have *just in case* :]


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"The path of least resistance is the past of least reward."

QUOTE (Slippy @ Jan 6 2012, 07:39 PM) *
Version 6 is my favorite, version 3's trigger assembly is a punch to the nuts.

QUOTE (BigEd @ Nov 6 2011, 06:53 AM) *
I am 40 now... I enjoy airsoft artillery support. One shot = Seven kills.
My version of CQB is leveling the entire building.
///ed///
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mp5k
post Apr 1 2012, 04:22 AM
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QUOTE (Jerichow @ Apr 1 2012, 04:29 AM) *
You don't want another Galaxy shell...

1: We have said more than once, any V3 will work(lonex, jg, echo 1, etc etc etc)

2: You don't want a Galaxy gearbox... they're garbage. I took mine apart immediately and could tell the difference between it and my 2+ year old JG shell that was to replace it. Go to a typical airsoft retailer and get a V3 shell, or just get a V3 gearbox altogether, take out what you don't need and replace the MP5k parts as necessary, keeping spares of the others. Another gearset is never a bad thing to have *just in case* :]

yeh Im know they are junk,I just wanted one for now to get my gun going again until I get everything swapped over as I reckon its going to take me some time to get shimming and re-assembly done as ive never done it before.

OK then I'll order a new Gearbox Shell :With the Galaxy how am I going to get the bevel gear shimmed right because the galaxy doesnt run a full motor cage to hold the motor inplace that allows you to see the Bevel gear to motor pinion spacing.

If I buy say an AK Ver 3 box then change over my MP5K Specific Parts to it: do you have to then re-shim the gearbox, im guessing yes ?

I also notice all the complete gearbox's I see for sale have a fully closed Cylinder,mine on the MP5K has the holes in the sides

This post has been edited by mp5k: Apr 1 2012, 04:38 AM
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airborne101
post Apr 1 2012, 10:11 AM
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You should always reshim a gearbox. You don't have to if you buy a drop in, but it is a really good idea if you want your gun to work a long time.

The port on the cylinder is based on the barrel length of your gun. AK's have a 455mm barrel which means they use a full cylinder. Your MP5k uses something like a 110mm barrel, which means porting it will make your system more efficient.


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mp5k
post Apr 2 2012, 04:08 AM
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QUOTE (airborne101 @ Apr 1 2012, 11:11 AM) *
You should always reshim a gearbox. You don't have to if you buy a drop in, but it is a really good idea if you want your gun to work a long time.

The port on the cylinder is based on the barrel length of your gun. AK's have a 455mm barrel which means they use a full cylinder. Your MP5k uses something like a 110mm barrel, which means porting it will make your system more efficient.

I just fitted a KM 170mm Barrel and it seemed to have lost a lot of power and its only 60mm longer!,seeing that gearbox broke upon testing though this is probably why it shot so powerless?
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Lefse
post Apr 2 2012, 04:16 AM
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A cracked gearbox would have significant effect on the guns performance, so that's obvious really.
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