Hi, I'm new to this forum as well as airsoft.

I'm looking at a few choices as to a gun I should start with, and I was wondering if anyone has used any of them and can give me a sort of overview or review of it.

This is the first one: http://www.hobbytron.com/AirsoftAssaultRif...AA10CH3181.html.

Second one: http://www.hobbytron.com/ElectricXM8BlackA...AirsoftGun.html

Third one: http://www.hobbytron.com/ElectricSWATAEGSn...ftGunDYTM9.html

I'm leaning more towards the first one. (it's got the under-barrel shotgun and two mags, as well as some more customization options). And I've looked at reviewss of the gun on youtube and they seem pretty good.

I was also wondering if anyone could suggest a good ACOG-type scope that I could buy (If I were to buy the first one).

Another reason I'm leaning more towards the first one is this: http://www.hobbytron.com/M43181AEGElectric...ackageDeal.html



Thanks!

None of the above. Hobbytron is a terrible retailer for airsoft and many bad experiences come from them, as well as all 3 of the guns quality are horrible. Try searching on sites like airsoftgi.com and airsoftatlanta.com And if you're looking for an electric gun around the $80-150 mark, look into JG, CYMA....

I ordered from Hobbytron and my barrel on my gun was offset so the BBs broke before they even came out of the barrel. don't waste your money.

Go to

www.airsoftmegastore.com

www.airsoftgi.com

www.airsoftpost.com

www.airsoftatlanta.com

Or www.hobbytronsucksbadly.com

If your price range is 150$ max:

M4: G&G Combat Machine
G36: JG
AK: CYMA
AUG: JG
M14: CYMA
Shotguns: DE/TSD/UTG


You will not find a reliable gun AND decent ACOG sight for 150$. You can get one or the either, but not both.

I lol'd at the video.

I can vouch for the JG G36's. Very nice guns, for 125$ish. mine lasted a year with no problems, Then I got a better gun and sold it. Battery is tricky to get in at first. I had the C version, And it was accurate for how short it was.

I can also Vouch for the CYMA M14. Very nice gun. Long, Like all M14's Theyre pretty accurate.

I can say the Combat Machine M4's are good, As my friend had one, and he let me use it from time to time, Just becasue I wanted to see how it compared to my KWA M4. These have a pretty good ROF on a 9.6.

And all of the shotguns romeo posted are all internally the same, But the TSD one has metal, comes with 4 shells, and a shell holder. Ive actually shot the DE (I own in) And the UTG and TSD (both owned by friends) theyre nice, Just some have metal, Hence the varying prices.

Of the guns deadlyapollo listed, the G&G and cyma will perform the best. The cyma has the best range out of all of those(been hit by a stock one at 175-200ft) but the G&G wins in pretty much every other category. A new bucking and nub in the G&G and your good to go

For only another ~$50 you can have a CYMA AK or (for even cheaper) an M14. I have a Cyma AK, and its a great fun for the money. (and a great gun period)

Please try to avoid hobbytron, and any of those AEG's you listed.

CYMA: (any of these are a good pic)


http://www.airsoftgi.com/index.php?cPath=1...gri7imr7314vhg0

Cyma's are some of the best AEG's you can buy that are on the budget end.

If you want a G36, go for JG/ECHO1

If you want an M4, look at the G&G combat Machines or even a JG

Thanks for the advice guys :D.

I think I'm going to get this one. There is also a blowback version of this gun for $30 more. Is it worth $30 more to get that version? Or should I just go with the standard one?

I'm also looking in to getting an M203 Grenade Launcher (shotgun) for it. Does anyone know where I can find a good one, as well as an RIS barrel? (I've looked at the some RIS Barrels but I don't know what size will fit this gun.)


Thanks.


P.S. Anyone know a good battery for this gun?

TBH blowback is not worth it - its just an overhyped "mod" to sell more guns. If you want real blowback, get a GBBR.

There are several things here you need to take into consideration.

(1) While the pneumatic blowback on the Combat Machine is no big deal, there are several other differences between the regular and blowback CMs that make the blowback version definitely worth buying. Starting with a 6.04 tightbore barrel. Rather than having to drop in a Madbul 6.03 afterwards, at $35 a pop, you've already got something to work with. And there are other differences too.

(2) The '203s fit in two ways. (a) the lower half of the handguard is removed, and attachments are made to the delta ring assembly and the front outer barrel. (b) the launcher has fitments that attach to the rail on the underside of a RIS.

BUT... (3) In all models like the Combat Machine (anything that has the LE retractable stock), the battery goes inside the handguard! So (I) you can't use attachment method (a), and (ii) if you put on a RIS instead of a handguard, there's no room in 98% of RIS's for the battery, so you can't use attachment method (b).

The only way you could do this "as is" is by attaching a single rail externally to the underside of the handguard, but even that is (a) going to make changing out the battery a major pain, and (b) make the resulting gun look butt ugly, with the launcher about as low as the bottom of the magazine.

So.... I strongly recommend you reconsider part of your plan.

If your heart is set on a M203, then you should definitely look at guns that store the battery aft, either in a crane stock or a full stock. For example:-
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?...roducts_id=6026
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?...roducts_id=5120
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=3748
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=6235

The G4s are dolled up CM blowbacks. The Raider is the latest blowback.

Or... abandon the M203. But if you want to mount an after-market RIS (rail system, front end), you're going to hit the same battery storage problems, unless you go to a PEQ box solution.

Stuff to think about...

P.S. This should help with envisaging how the handguard and battery works: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vPOYMxydXHM...feature=related

This post has been edited by verisimilitude: Mar 18 2010, 08:11 AM

(while listening to Yngwie Malmsteen)

I love how most people like adding M203s to their guns, yet no one uses the giant shotgun.......
I think it's just an expensive gimmick personally.

Search around on Evike.com and airsoftgi.com for some great deals. For a starting gun, pick up a G&G combat machine or any gun from JG's lineup that you can find in stock. Why spend money on a hobby you may not like? Start cheap but with good gear. There are plenty of cheap guns that are of good quality and you won't get bored of instantly.

Cool, thanks for the info. It was very helpful. What are the other differences?

Other than that, I think I'll ditch the M203 and buy some spare mags. (Will these work?)


P.S. Can anyone recommend a good battery for under $50.00?

^Yes, and battery setup depends on the gun.

I have a MAG VN-style midcap that works well in my Plastica, so I assume the MAGs should do just fine in the Combat Machine. The only better mag is the G&G 79 round midcap. It's metal, sturdy, and has a bb follower so you use up every single bb. They are less expensive but of course only hold 1/2 the bbs of the MAG, so I suppose more expensive in the long run. ASGI just got them in in bulk. http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=3277

You should probably get a battery like this (if it's for a M4 handguard).
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=3372

Go to cheapbatterypacks.com and make yourself one like it using Elite 1500mAh cells.

This thread will tell you everything you need to know and more about CMs, CM blowbacks, and Plasticas.
http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/GandG-sp...on-t174886.html

This post has been edited by verisimilitude: Mar 18 2010, 03:04 PM

I was thinking of getting an 8.4 battery instead because I don't want a very high ROF. Just an average one. Or is a 9.6 average? O_o

Another thing I'm a little confused about is: is there in RIS barrel that will work on this gun and still hold the battery?

Back in the day 8.4v might have been considered average, but with the ever-upward creep towards higher power and performance, especially with all these lipos coming in, I think 9.6v might be considered standard these days. But 8.4v will be just fine if that's what you want (and less expensive).

There is no such thing as a "RIS barrel". RIS stands for rail interface system. It's the tubular, perforated metal cage that fits around the barrel and attaches to the front of the upper receiver. There's also a RAS, which is a free-float version of the RIS (free-float=unsupported at the muzzle end of the barrel). Generally, we talk about rail systems, front ends, RIS/RAS, etc. In real steel, they tend to talk about forearms, which is the same thing.

There is no room inside the great majority of rail systems for the great majority of batteries. There will always be exceptions, but this is a general rule. The King Arms CASV rail accommodates a small battery, but the DBoys version of the CASV doesn't without internal modifications. The JG S-system takes a small battery too, but getting it in and out can be fiddly. Some of the lower-powered lipos can be made very thin and will occasionally fit. But basically 98% of rail systems were not designed to hold batteries--they're designed to provide yards of rail to screw things on to.

There are ways around this. You can add a PEQ box to the rail, and store the battery in the PEQ. Personal preference if this is something you like and like the look of or not. You can keep the battery inside the molded plastic handguards and add a single rail to the bottom of the handguard (on the outside). And another rail to the top of the handguard (on the outside).

Still, most people with rails will end up with the battery in the rear of the gun, in the full stock, the crane stock, or a stick lipo in the buffer tube of a retractable.

Guns can be rewired from the front to the back, but this is not a job for a beginner.

If you want rails now, or know you'll want rails down the road, consider the options outlined above and also consider looking at rear-wired models; it'll save you hassle later on.

Then I think for now I'll forget about the RAS untill I get better aquainted with the sport.

Right now I'm looking at batteries on AirsoftGI.com. However, I have no idea what a good starting-out battery would be. And what's "mAh" mean?

If you would be so kind as to suggest a good starter battery I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks.

Skipping out on the RIS from the start is up to you, but I would say to go for ASGI's G4A3.
It has a nice rail system on it and it is essentially a G&G M4 Combat Machine Blowback. Mine is nice right out of the box. I have yet to open it (not so sure how I'd go about that; the front pin is different from the one on JGs and it still won't open when I only remove the back pin). My only recommendation for this gun is a vertical grip and rail covers because the rails are very sharp (gloves would also help a lot).
As for a battery, I have two Intellect 9.6v 1200mAh nunchuck batteries that go into the stock. They offer a VERY nice rate of fire with this gun...and I haven' even tried to up the ROF yet.
I also use some MAG plastic midcaps in my G4 and they work great. I haven't used any G&G midcaps, but I would think that the G&G mags are of higher quality. The MAG mags (lawl) are great for all the more they cost. An $8 mag? Sure. Why care about the build material if it can be easily replaced? If you have more money to spend at one time, I'd get the G&G midcaps over the MAG midcaps.

To answer your question, I think that "mAH" means "milliamp hour". I wouldn't try to go off of what I say to often, though...ask for another opinion to anything I say 'cause I am also relatively new to airsoft as well.

I hope I managed to help to some extent.

Cyma's are some of the best AEG's you can buy that are on the budget end. JonathanMP5


Whoof I thought you were going to say " cyma is the best AEG company out there."

mAh is the measure of how long a battery will last before it'll need recharging. So for instance a 2000 mAh should last a good deal longer than a 1200 one. Depending on how intensely you're skirmishing, whether you want to carry another pre-charged battery with you, opportunities for swopping them out during the game, etc. etc., people tend to prefer higher mAh.

Two possible styles:
9.6v highest mAh for a handguard:
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=2772

9.6v typical configuration for a handguard:
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=3372

Intellect cells are supposed to be pretty good, but most people, including me, think Elite cells are even better.
I recommend you go here and build yourself a battery. http://www.cheapbatterypacks.com/ You could use the Elite AA 1700s for the double nunchuck or the Elite 2/3A 1500s for the regular nunchuck. Even though the Evite ratings are slightly lower, they're supposed to be just as powerful as the Intellects, if not more so. The 1500 would come out to $24. If you decide to go this route, come back and ask about AWG and connectors.



These are good recommendations. When it's in stock, the G4-A3 is one of the least expensive G4s, but you get the crane stock, rail, etc. at only $19 bucks over a regular CM blowback carbine.

The two magazine so far that work best in my Plastica are a MAG VN style midcap (short version of the mag linked), and the G&G 79rd midcap. The G&G is really nice: good quality metal, feels really sturdy, and has an extended BB follower so you use up every single BB.

This post has been edited by verisimilitude: Mar 19 2010, 04:42 PM

This looks like a good gun, but I am just starting out, and I think I'll stick with this one for now. I'll probably get the one you suggested later on (and when I have the money).

For now, I'm just starting out, and I want to start small and simple. And I really like this one.

Thanks for the suggestion though. I'll probably buy it later down the road.