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> HOW TO UPGRADE YOUR KWA/KSC GLOCK?, Approach Guide to your KWA/KSC Glock! NECRO EXEMPT
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defasturias
post Jun 22 2010, 01:12 PM
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More and more people are asking how to instal this or that. Some people explain it with lack of details because it seems easy for them. Also some are recommending youtube guides, but they really just show how to basically strip the gun and are useless.

I modified 3 Glocks and so I decided to make a guide that will help you to install parts easily. Because all the Glocks share many same parts and are designt identically, I will make a guide for one semi-automatic and one automatic Glock. I will go for G17 and G18C.

This guide is also useful if you want to totally strip down your gun in order to clean it, relube it or you need a guide for disassembly to fix a problem.

I will explain step by step what do you need to remove in order to replace all the possible upgrades for each gun. + I will give you some tips here and there in order to make your life easier. Oh, and please pin this thread so that people will easily find it.

Ok, lets start. I will attach an original KWA diagram of gun assembly. We will use this, because the easiest way to tell which part must be removed, is by saying its number. So everytime you will see "you must remove part #xx", you will look up for diagram which part I mean. It is recommended that you print the diagram. It saves you some scrolling.

G17





ALUMINIUM SLIDE

Lets begin with visually most noticeable mod. The slide.

1.1. Removing slide is the basics, but I will explain it again. First, you pull down part #51 on both sides of the frame, than with other hand pull the slide back and push it back forward. It will go straight off.
1.2. Remove the spring assembly (#28) and outer barrel (#147)
1.3. Unscrew the bolt #18.
1.4. Lift the blow back unit #88 together with nozzle (#22) out from the slide.
1.5. Put the bb unit #88 together with nozzle #22 into the new slide.
1.6. Screw back the bolt #18.
1.7. Remove the rear sight by sliding it off (either to the left or right side) the slide by gentley push and attach it to the new slide same way.
1.8. Front sight is glued and you can use flat screwdriver to pop it out from the inside the original slide. It is recommended that you glue it back to the new slide.
1.9. Reassemble the outer barrel #147 and spring assembly #28.
1.10. Align the new slide on the frame rails and pull it back like you are reloading it. It will cock back and you are done.



RECOIL SPRING

Enhanced recoil spring is another simple mod.

Some enhanced recoil springs come with steel rod and basically everything you have to do is to swap the whole #28 spring assembly with new one. Do not forget to install back the round rubber part that comes with the original rod but is not listed on the diagram.

So lets assume you bought only an enhanced recoil spring, and you wish to install it.

2.1. First you pull back the original spring #29 in order to make an easier access to the pin #33.
2.2. Push out the pin #33.
2.3. The whole assembly #28 will fall apart.
2.4. Replace the spring and reassemble.



ROCKET/FLOATING VALVE

This is a bit tough.

3.1. Follow the instructions for removing bb unit #88 out of the slide - 1.1. to 1.4.
3.2. Once you lift the bb unit #88 together with nozzle #23, you slide out the nozzle.
3.3. Put the springs #23 somewhere safe, all you need now is nozzle #22.
3.4. Push out the pin #26. You shold hold a finger or apply tape on the end of the nozzle, because after removing pin, parts #24 and #25 will jump out.
3.5. Replace the original floating valve #24 with new one. When I replaced the spring #25, my gun didnt work properly so it is up to you if you also replace spring or not (my Airsoft Surgeon rocket valve came with enhanced spring).
3.6. After you put the spring and new valve back to nozzle, take a toothpick and push the floating valve down.
3.7. Put back the pin. It helps alot, if you find someone that will hold a nozzle for you while you are doing this.
3.8. Slide the nozzle back to the bb unit and also springs #23. This is a very good chance to lube the nozzle rails inside the bb unit #88.
3.9. Follow instructions 1.5. to 1.10. to reassemble.



PRECISION/TIGHTBORE BARREL

4.1. First you must take out the outer barrel #147.
4.2. Than hold the part #10 and pull out the inner barrel assembly.
4.3. Remove the pin #13 and take off the part #10. Watch for the little spring #12 it will pop out!
4.4. Remove the part #15. It will reveal hopup rubber #14 and ball #16.
4.5. Take off #14 and #16.
4.6. Take off part #11 and put it immidiately on the new barrel. Be carefull how your barrel is turned.
4.7. Put the hopup rubber #14 back and don't forget for the hopup ball #16.
4.8. Put back part #15. over the hopup rubber and ball.
4.9. Put spring #12 into part 10# the way it is showed on diagram.
4.10. When you will put the barrel on the part #10, the bottom part with pin hole from part #15 will squize that spring forward.
4.11. Put the pin #13 back in.
4.12. Take off rubber part #9 from original inner barrel and install it on the new one.
4.13 slide the new inner barrel into the outer barrel and reassemble the gun. I suggest lubbing part 10 before that.



HAMMER SPRING

5.1. Take apart the gun. This time, we will work on the frame #102.
5.2. Push out pins #86 and #59. They are the only pins on the frame so you cant miss them.
5.3. Disconnect spring #64 that holds part #92.
5.4. You lift out the whole assembly by holding the part #65 and part #93.
5.5. Take out the pin #76 and lift out the hammer assembly by holding parts #92 and #94.
5.6. Replace the original hammer spring #75 with new one.
5.7. Hold together parts #75, #94 and #92. This will be a bit tricky but it is the easiest way.
5.8. Make sure the spring sits right (I added a picture below), than push everything down into assebly. Also make sure that part #78 in positioned correctly and sticks out throuh the opening of the part #93. This is the part that hits the magazine valve. So if you position it wrong, gas will not be released.
5.9. The twisted spring will now want to push everything back up, so you must hold all three parts down, until you put the pin #76 back in. It is easier if someone else puts the pin in while you are holding parts #75, #94 and #92 down.
5.10. After that, by holding assembly by parts #65 and #93 put everything back in.
5.11. Push the pins #86 and #59 back.
5.12. Reconnect spring #64 that holds part #92.
5.13. Reassemble the gun.

NOTICE! During the assembly, pin #69 might fall out and cause parts #65, #66 and #55 (trigger) to fall apart. You can tape the part #65 to prevent pin from falling out. Also! Remember how the spring #68 is positioned. The narrow end goes around the trigger #55 and hooks on the part #65, the twisted end hooks on to the hole on part #66. This spring likes to jump out so be careful how you install it back.



ENHANCED PISTON

This is a part #27.

6.1. Follow the instructions for removing bb unit #88 out of the slide - 1.1. to 1.4.
6.2. Once you lift the bb unit #88 together with nozzle #23, you slide out the nozzle.
6.3. Put the springs #23 somewhere safe, you don't want to lose them.
6.4. Take a look at the part #88 and you will see a round rubber part #27.
6.5. Replace the original piston #27 with new one. You can help yourself putting it on by using lube.
6.6. Make sure the new rubber piston is vell lubed.
6.7. Slide the nozzle back to the bb unit and also springs #23. This is a very good chance to lube the nozzle rails inside the bb unit #88.
6.8. Follow instructions 1.5. to 1.10. to reassemble.

STEEL MAGAZINE CATCH RELEASE

This is a part #70.

7.1. Take apart the gun. This time, we will work on the frame #102.
7.2. Trough the opening where the magazine goes, look into the gun. You will see a needle-like part #72 sticking out.
7.3. Take a small pointed screwdriver and push the part #73 at the side so it will pop out. You can push it to one side only.
7.4. Push the part #70 like you are releasing a magazine and take it out.
7.5. Now you cannot just slide the new part #70 back in, because part #72 is on the way. So you have to use a flat screwdriver or something to lift it. Also look at the part #70 you will see a cutted opening where the part #72 jamms.
7.6. By using screwdriver, guide part #72 into the opening on the part #70, mentioned before, so that is jamms.
7.7. By replicating you are releasing a magazine, test if new part #70 works and returns back into position. If not, part #72 is not jammed properly.

NOTICE! I had to shorten my part #72 for about 1,5mm in order to jam it, because Guarder steel mag catch release did not had as deep cutted openings as the original part.




HI-FLOW VALVE

8.1. Release all the gas from the magazine, either by shooting or pressing the valve #216. That is the same valve we are replacing.
8.2. After the magazine is empty, use special tool to unsrew the original valve #216.
8.3. Take a new hi-flow valve, lube it and srew it back in, using special tool.

NOTICE! I use THIS Valve key, but there is also THIS one available. However, you can also make a similar tool by cutting and reshaping a fork. But you will scratch valve and magazine.



This post has been edited by airborne101: Mar 11 2013, 12:36 PM


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defasturias
post Jun 22 2010, 01:36 PM
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G18C





ALUMINIUM SLIDE

1.1. Removing slide is the basics, but I will explain it again. First, you pull down part #51 on both sides of the frame, switch fire selector #255 on SAFE, than with other hand pull the slide back and push it back forward. It will go straight off.
1.2. Remove the spring assembly (#28) and outer barrel (#148)
1.3. Remove the rear sight by pushing it to the right or left side.
1.4. Use the imbus key you recieved with the gun and unsrew the bolt #259.
1.5. Unscrew the bolt #18.
1.6. By pushing the fire selector against the slide, try to shake out pin #258. However if it wont come out, try to use a magnet or a needle to pull it out.
1.7. Pull out the fire selector #255 and watch for the ball #257.
1.8. Lift the blow back unit #250 together with nozzle (#22) out from the slide. Watch for the part #260 which might fall out but you can easily put it back since it is very logic how it goes in.
1.9. Put the bb unit #250 together with nozzle #22 into the new slide.
1.10. Put the fire selector ball #257 in the middle hole (for safety position).
1.11. Push fire selector #255 back into the slide. It should be positioned like in safe mode and also the stick must hit the hole of the part #260.
1.12. Push the pin #258 back in.
1.13. Screw back bolt #259.
1.14. Push back the rear sight.
1.15. Front sight is glued and you can use flat screwdriver to pop it out from the inside the original slide. It is recommended that you glue it back to the new slide.
1.16. Reassemble the outer barrel #148 and spring assembly #28.
1.17. Align the new slide on the frame rails and pull it back like you are reloading it. It will cock back and you are done.

You have also a great guide HERE.
.
RECOIL SPRING

Simple mod, same as with G17 useful on other Glocks too.

Some enhanced recoil springs come with steel rod and basically everything you have to do is to swap the whole #28 spring assembly with new one. Do not forget to install back the round rubber part that comes with the original rod but is not listed on the diagram.

So lets assume you bought only an enhanced recoil spring, and you wish to install it.

2.1. First you pull back the original spring #29 in order to make an easier access to the pin #33.
2.2. Push out the pin #33.
2.3. The whole assembly #28 will fall apart.
2.4. Replace the spring and reassemble.



ROCKET/FLOATING VALVE


3.1. Follow the instructions for removing bb unit #250 out of the slide - 1.1. to 1.8.
3.2. Once you lift the bb unit #250 together with nozzle #23, you slide out the nozzle.
3.3. Put the springs #23 somewhere safe, all you need now is nozzle #22.
3.4. Push out the pin #26. You shold hold a finger or apply tape on the end of the nozzle, because after removing pin, parts #24 and #25 will jump out.
3.5. Replace the original floating valve #24 with new one. When I replaced the spring #25, my gun didnt work properly so it is up to you if you also replace spring or not (my Airsoft Surgeon rocket valve came with enhanced spring).
3.6. After you put the spring and new valve back to nozzle, take a toothpick and push the floating valve down.
3.7. Put back the pin. It helps alot, if you find someone that will hold a nozzle for you while you are doing this.
3.8. Slide the nozzle back to the bb unit and also springs #23. This is a very good chance to lube the nozzle rails inside the bb unit #250.
3.9. Follow instructions 1.9. to 1.17. to reassemble.



PRECISION/TIGHTBORE BARREL

4.1. First you must take out the outer barrel #148.
4.2. Than hold the part #10 and pull out the inner barrel assembly.
4.3. Remove the pin #13 and take off the part #10. Watch for the little spring #12 it will pop out!
4.4. Remove the part #15. It will reveal hopup rubber #14 and ball #16.
4.5. Take off #14 and #16.
4.6. Take off part #11 and put it immidiately on the new barrel. Be carefull how your barrel is turned.
4.7. Put the hopup rubber #14 back and don't forget for the hopup ball #16.
4.8. Put back part #15. over the hopup rubber and ball.
4.9. Put spring #12 into part 10# the way it is showed on diagram.
4.10. When you will put the barrel on the part #10, the bottom part with pin hole from part #15 will squize that spring forward.
4.11. Put the pin #13 back in.
4.12. Take off rubber part #9 from original inner barrel and install it on the new one.
4.13 slide the new inner barrel into the outer barrel and reassemble the gun. I suggest lubbing part 10 before that.



HAMMER SPRING

5.1. Take apart the gun. This time, we will work on the frame #102.
5.2. Push out pins #86 and #59. They are the only pins on the frame so you cant miss them.
5.3. Disconnect spring #64 that holds part #92.
5.4. You lift out the whole assembly by holding the part #65 and part #93.
5.5. Take out the pin #76 and lift out the hammer assembly by holding parts #92 and #263.
5.6. Replace the original hammer spring #264 with new one.
5.7. Hold together parts #264, #263 and #92. This will be a bit tricky but it is the easiest way.
5.8. Make sure the spring sits right (I added a picture below), than push everything down into assebly. Also make sure that part #78 in positioned correctly and sticks out throuh the opening of the part #93. This is the part that hits the magazine valve. So if you position it wrong, gas will not be released.
5.9. Put the part #259 back into its place between #263 and the wall of the #93.
5.9. The twisted spring will now want to push everything back up, so you must hold all three parts down, until you put the pin #76 back in. It is easier if someone else puts the pin in while you are holding parts #264, #263 and #92 down.
5.10. After that, by holding assembly by parts #65 and #93 put everything back in.
5.11. Push the pins #86 and #59 back.
5.12. Reconnect spring #64 that holds part #92.
5.13. Reassemble the gun.

NOTICE! During the assembly, pin #69 might fall out and cause parts #65, #66 and #55 (trigger) to fall apart. You can tape the part #65 to prevent pin from falling out. Also! Remember how the spring #68 is positioned. The narrow end goes around the trigger #55 and hooks on the part #65, the twisted end hooks on to the hole on part #66. This spring likes to jump out so be careful how you install it back.



ENHANCED PISTON

This is a part #27.

6.1. Follow the instructions for removing bb unit #250 out of the slide - 1.1. to 1.8.
6.2. Once you lift the bb unit #250 together with nozzle #23, you slide out the nozzle.
6.3. Put the springs #23 somewhere safe, you don't want to lose them.
6.4. Take a look at the part #250 and you will see a round rubber part #27.
6.5. Replace the original piston #27 with new one. You can help yourself putting it on by using lube.
6.6. Make sure the new rubber piston is vell lubed.
6.7. Slide the nozzle back to the bb unit and also springs #23. This is a very good chance to lube the nozzle rails inside the bb unit #250.
6.8. Follow instructions 1.9. to 1.17. to reassemble.

STEEL MAGAZINE CATCH RELEASE

This is a part #70.

7.1. Take apart the gun. This time, we will work on the frame #102.
7.2. Trough the opening where the magazine goes, look into the gun. You will see a needle-like part #72 sticking out.
7.3. Take a small pointed screwdriver and push the part #73 at the side so it will pop out. You can push it to one side only.
7.4. Push the part #70 like you are releasing a magazine and take it out.
7.5. Now you cannot just slide the new part #70 back in, because part #72 is on the way. So you have to use a flat screwdriver or something to lift it. Also look at the part #70 you will see a cutted opening where the part #72 jamms.
7.6. By using screwdriver, guide part #72 into the opening on the part #70, mentioned before, so that is jamms.
7.7. By replicating you are releasing a magazine, test if new part #70 works and returns back into position. If not, part #72 is not jammed properly.

NOTICE! I had to shorten my part #72 for about 1,5mm in order to jam it, because Guarder steel mag catch release did not had as deep cutted openings as the original part.




HI-FLOW VALVE

8.1. Release all the gas from the magazine, either by shooting or pressing the valve #216. That is the same valve we are replacing.
8.2. After the magazine is empty, use special tool to unsrew the original valve #216.
8.3. Take a new hi-flow valve, lube it and srew it back in, using special tool.

NOTICE! I use THIS Valve key, but there is also THIS one available. However, you can also make a similar tool by cutting and reshaping a fork. But you will scratch valve and magazine.



This post has been edited by defasturias: Jun 22 2010, 01:45 PM


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This is my rifle. There are many like it, but this one is mine.

My rifle is my best friend. It is my life. I must master it as I must master my life.
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defasturias
post Jun 22 2010, 01:45 PM
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Other guns G19, G23F, G26C and G34 are pretty much same. For instance, if you want to install tightbore barrel to G19, follow instructions for installing that upgrade on G17, just watch how some parts are marked. For instance, part #10 on G17 in now #8 on G19. It is same part, just shorter, so it is numbered diferrently. You will see that no gun has more parts than another (when comparing semi-auto with semi-auto and full-auto with full-auto).

Instructions for upgrading G17 is also useful for G19 and G34. G19 is just shorter G17 and G34 is longer G17. All the parts are same.

G19


Instructions for upgrading G18C is also useful for G23F and G26C. Like G18C is auto version of G17, G23F is auto version of G19 and G26C is auto G26. All the parts are same.

G23F


G26C


This post has been edited by defasturias: Jun 22 2010, 01:49 PM


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This is my rifle. There are many like it, but this one is mine.

My rifle is my best friend. It is my life. I must master it as I must master my life.
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The Vainguard
post Jun 23 2010, 03:05 AM
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Great looking guide. Might have to tinker with my new G17 when I get it... However, I'd put the notices before all the instructions. I'd really hate to go through all the trouble and have some issues then realize you put a notice at the bottom on how to make my life easier ;)


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-Kagami-Vainguard-MARSOCdoc-<3Bromance<3-
QUOTE (MARSOCdoc @ Jan 14 2010, 05:15 PM)
please don't spread rumors that im poor and eat cat food. I eat it cuz its delicious, not cuz its cheap.

QUOTE (Night Striker @ Feb 17 2010, 09:02 PM)
u describe a p90 the same way a fat man describes a chocolate cake
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OpSic66
post Jun 23 2010, 02:00 PM
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Congrats, Topic Pinned by Vietec.

And Kudos. Very very nice guide.

This post has been edited by OpSic66: Jun 23 2010, 02:01 PM


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defasturias
post Jun 23 2010, 06:24 PM
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Thank you for compliments and pin. I hope lot of people will find this useful. Also if someone gets stuck somewhere and still doesnt know which part goes where, ask here and I will try to respond with pictures ASAP.


--------------------
This is my rifle. There are many like it, but this one is mine.

My rifle is my best friend. It is my life. I must master it as I must master my life.
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The Vainguard
post Jun 23 2010, 06:27 PM
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My useful topics never get pinned. :(

As stated, however, I'd put the "Notices" before the steps. It'd be better to know before rather than after someone attempts to take their gun apart.


--------------------
Official 2011 Picture Thread
-Kagami-Vainguard-MARSOCdoc-<3Bromance<3-
QUOTE (MARSOCdoc @ Jan 14 2010, 05:15 PM)
please don't spread rumors that im poor and eat cat food. I eat it cuz its delicious, not cuz its cheap.

QUOTE (Night Striker @ Feb 17 2010, 09:02 PM)
u describe a p90 the same way a fat man describes a chocolate cake
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defasturias
post Jun 24 2010, 02:02 PM
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I cannot edit my posts anymore. So it would be nice if admins edit the posts and put the notices right under the titles.

But than I think who would go and take the gun apart before reading what he is actually going to do? I would check everything first, than start to disassemble.


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This is my rifle. There are many like it, but this one is mine.

My rifle is my best friend. It is my life. I must master it as I must master my life.
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PeteJC21
post Aug 26 2010, 06:04 AM
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This is a really useful topic, thanks.

1 question though... I have a KSC/KWA Glock 19. My Glock was venting all gas out of the barrell after 2-3 shots so I pulled it apart and found the cylinder springs (part number 23) were broken. Can you tell me exactly what these springs do?
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OutlawedToker
post Jan 17 2011, 11:41 AM
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QUOTE (PeteJC21 @ Aug 26 2010, 06:04 AM) *
This is a really useful topic, thanks.

1 question though... I have a KSC/KWA Glock 19. My Glock was venting all gas out of the barrell after 2-3 shots so I pulled it apart and found the cylinder springs (part number 23) were broken. Can you tell me exactly what these springs do?


sorry to bring back old thread, but this topic is extremely useful.

just where do I need to look for things like a new recoil spring, madbull tightbore barrel, metal mag catch, the hi flo valve, etc.. for my incoming ksc g23f?
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Faya Selekta
post Feb 20 2011, 03:34 AM
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Amazing. Just an amazing guide. Don't know how you can cram all that technical know-how into one brain. Kudos man!

Anyway, my friends I have a dilemma:

I recently acquired a cheap but decently rated HFC G17, and decided to use it as a carbine build. The plan is to have a carbine adjustable stock, RIS, Red dot, laser/light, silencer, and a vertical front grip. Most of the parts have come in, and I have also received the metal slide and outer barrel upgrade kit.

I have 3 questions, and not too much experience with internals, so go easy on me:

(1) Is there a stronger spring upgrade for the HFC G17 GBB, so I can get it to about 330FPS? Is it compatible with the TM, KWA, KSC models?

(2) If so, where can I find it, and do I need anything else to properly acheive this velocity and make it reliable?

(3) Does anyone have firsthand feedback on the 50 round hi-cap G17 GBB mags, and how they work with the HFC G17? Please share.

I promise I will post up pics when I get the project well on the way, hopefully in a couple of weeks. For now, here are the links to the gun and stock.

HFC G17 Barebones http://www.airsplat.com/Items/GP-HGBB-184.htm
G17 Carbine shoulder stock http://airsoft-club.com/shop/gas-gun-upgra...eries-gbb-black
HFC Metal slide/barrel upgrade http://www.airsoftshogun.com/hfc-upgrade-k...rel_oid2398.htm

Your feedback, suggestions and knowledge are all appreciated.

Thanks!

FS

This post has been edited by Faya Selekta: Feb 20 2011, 03:37 AM


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TOYS: UTG L96, HYBRID AK47, KJW M9 CO2BB, SIG 226X5 CO2BB, USP COMPACT GBB, M16 SPR, CZ SCOPION SMG, JG M4 RIS, CYMA GLOCK AEP
OPS: BATTLE OF THE BULGE 2007, OP: CRISIS BLAZE II 2009, OP: SHATTERED UNION I 2010, OP: BATTLE OF THE BULGE 2010
LOADOUT: ACU & DESERT MARPAT, ASSAULT VESTS: TAN, WOODLAND MARPAT, ACU & BLACK, BLACK & TAN COMBAT BOOTS, PASGT'S & FLAKJACKS
MISSION: EXCERCISE, ENTERTAIN, EDUCATE & EMPOWER AS MANY PEOPLE ON THE PLANET AS POSSIBLE, WHILE LEARNING FROM THEM NON STOP.
TRAINING: GUN SAFETY CERTIFICATION 2006, IWLA REAL STEEL RANGE CERTIFICATION 2007, MAAPR S&T 2008, MSATO SQUAD TACTICS 2010
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philsaudio
post Dec 26 2011, 05:07 PM
Post #12


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I am thinking about the KWA Advanced Training Pistol, apparently the only KWA Glock pistol offered today.

This guide rocks and if what you covered here applies to the KWA ATP it may be enough to push my decision for the ATP.

Thanks for all the hard work you did to assemble this guide.

Peace
Phil

http://www.airsoftatlanta.com/KWA_Adaptive...Gun_p/96000.htm $122.99 12-26-11


--------------------
My G36Cs:SRC Gen II, SRC Gen III, KWA Pre2Gx, JG 6681 Gen IV, Classic Army --- JG Stubby Killer, ICS Q4D
Two KWA Advanced Training Pistols and a KWA 1911 MK IV

...........I love it when a plan comes together
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AKFTW
post Jul 28 2012, 06:44 PM
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Great guide! Any info on the selector switch spring, and where to get a new one (besides $5 plus $10 shipping at Evike and the like)? Also, how can one get a stiffer selector spring? My selector always rotates into "Safe" whenever I fire semi or auto. YES I have tightened the little grub screw to it's limit.


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