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#18817979 Help a newbie

Posted by Guges Mk3 on 22 May 2017 - 02:37 PM

Your search has turned up a lot of wrong information.  I would stop using info from that site if I were you.


AS HT says...that's the nozzle and it should flick back and forward at a really high speed when you shoot the AEG.


How are you winding your mags?  Are you winding it properly...by properly its not the wrong info on the net where you just give it a few cranks.  You give it like 100 cranks.


Here's me canking an AK Mag to max whind and then burning off ~300 rounds with it.

See how long it takes to wind...over 1 minute.


Also, for the silicone oil this is sadly a propagation of a bad translation be in ignorant individual.  It is the blind leading the blind.  Back inthe early 1990's Airsoft guns ran on air tanks and the gun had an internal piston.  Instead of tearing the gun apart.  People would put a few drops of oil into the "compressed" air tanks.  Then when the guns went to Refrigerant as a power source,  Silicone oil was needed because refrigerants would cause latex seals to leak.

So when Green Gas switched from Refrigerants to Propane.  The "idiots" carried the oil into modern day green gas not fully knowing why you truly needed the oil.


And when they tossed it into AEG boxes...they Assumed that was what you used to clean the barrel...add in the internet and more misinformed people...the improper maintenance procedure is set in stone and preached as the gospel.


As for the bbs falling out.   That is "normal".  These are the bbs that are above the detente of the magazine and below the nozzle in the AEG.  This is the hop-up feed tube.  If you drop a mag with bbs in this no mans land...they will just fall out.


Who made your AEG...that looks like a MPEG/LPEG feed tube.

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#18817455 Lancer Tactical LT-11B will not fire

Posted by airborne101 on 15 April 2017 - 08:04 AM

What brand is your 8.4v battery? What brand is your friends 9.6v battery? 


Not all batteries are created equal and different brands have different performance. That being said, 9.6v batteries are safe for stock guns, so you can certainly use one. However, I would imagine a high quality 8.4v battery (such as Elite) will power your gun just fine. 


Check out EliteAirsoftBatteries.com for the best airsoft NIMH batteries out there. 

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#18814960 What upgrades should I get for my A&K Acr Masada?!

Posted by Guges Mk3 on 11 December 2016 - 08:50 PM

This platform is not the easiest to upgrade.  The hop-up is rather brittle and if you break that...your options are rather limited and expensive in getting another one that is just as brittle.


For easy range improvement change the hop-up packing and nub inside the brittle hop-up to one made by Maple Leaf and Matching nub.


For better ROF...get a better battery.  Not all batteries are the same nor do they give out the same amount of voltage.


At this point would be better off with skill improvements over AEG upgrades.

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#18810192 Mock suppressor Questions.....

Posted by Guest on 13 April 2016 - 10:56 PM

1.  Most airsoft mock suppressor accessories are cosmetic.  They usually will not increase or decrease your FPS.


2.  Some airsoft mock suppressorhave an inner barrel mounted inside.  It may slightly increase your FPS, but there may be problems with air seal or consistency.


3.  Not all mock suppressorfit all guns.  Match the threading.  If your M4 is 14mm CCW, use a 14mm CCW mock suppressor.

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#18795705 Greatest Team Kill EVER.

Posted by ZippoMAKO on 05 June 2015 - 10:17 AM

Totes should share this.....

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#18795680 hardest airsoft mission

Posted by MrGearbox on 04 June 2015 - 08:18 PM

...And getting teammates to find cover better than a tree...

Or a small flower.
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#18795439 hardest airsoft mission

Posted by B.A.M.F. on 11 May 2015 - 04:23 PM

Trying to get my teammates to move up.

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#18793290 Many Questions (not alot if you think)

Posted by renegadecow on 27 March 2015 - 10:54 PM

The new Recoil Shock guns by TM are well worth the money. The High Cycle line is worth it too although you could turn any regular AEG to match it in performance given the proper parts and mechanic to do it. What you're paying for essentially is all the work conveniently done for you. The old AK47 however is very, very dated and you don't get much out of it other than the TM name. It's still built on a plastic receiver whereas their 74s and 102s are the ones which are full metal and also sport a recoil engine. If you're really set on the AUG then go buy it as there's nothing really else quite like or can compare to it. But if you're after an AK (not a 47 specifically) consider ones by E&L and LCT.

And WGC Shop is legit. Just make sure you're actually safe and legal to import replica firearms into your country or they won't be liable if customs confiscates your stuff.

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#18792275 My theory of Aliens.

Posted by renegadecow on 02 March 2015 - 06:55 PM

Stop doing drugs.
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#18790851 Oh the KWA MKV, Is it a myth? Will it ever be seen in public?

Posted by Guges Mk3 on 29 January 2015 - 08:25 AM

Ok thanks. I always thought they were a totally different company, they just got the licensing from kwa to use the NS2 system.


Nope that is incorrect.


Think of KSC/KWA/ASG as Dodge Caravan,  Plymouth Voyager, Chrysler Town and Country of minivans/Glock replica's.

There are 1/20 of the OEM for every 10 makes and models of an Airsoft gun.  Don't assume one BRAND has one WHOLE factory supporting it.

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#18816945 Wiring issue. Less voltage at motor points then at battery

Posted by Hangtight on 20 March 2017 - 02:07 PM

Check it at the battery when you pull the trigger. If the battery is OK then it'll stay pretty close to the unloaded voltage. If it's them low at the motor connections then it's going 'missing' somewhere, usually as heat at a high resistance part of the circuit. Usual culprits are poor solder joints or a poor contact at the trigger. Use the resistance function of the meter to find the high resistance point/section, and bear in mind that batteries are capable of delivering enough current to generate a lot of heat.
Even if you front wire you'll still have to have a wire passing the pinion. Form it carefully so there is clearance and then superglue it to the inside of the shell.
Chances are with wire like that you've actually broken some of the stands inside trying to bend it into the tight bends required inside a gear box.
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