G36 Takedown Guide
Written by ASF.KrYpTiK



The G36 is a very popular gun now. As this is so, I felt the urgent need to finally create a thorough takedown guide for fellow ASF members. I have been asked many times how to breakdown a G36, so here is the answer: an in-depth, full color guide on the breakdown of an airsoft masterpiece, the G36.

Before we start, make sure to follow a few very important precautions. First, remove the magazine so no bb’s can go into the hopup chamber. After the magazine is removed, shoot a couple of times to clear out any bb’s from the chamber. As an added precaution, always remove the battery from the gun before breakdown to avoid any “accidents”.

Suggested Tools:
3mm Hex Key
Philips Screwdriver
Mini Screwdriver set (optional)
Tweezers (for hopup work, optional)



The first thing that has to be done is removal of the magazine well receiver pin. This is what holds the magazine well to the receiver itself. It comprises of two pieces, the pin and the pin cap. The pin cap is threaded and screws onto the end of the pin. It uses a standard 3mm hex key.



This is the magazine well pin and pin head removed. When you get the two unscrewed, they should come out easily.



Now, you must remove the magazine well. To do this, you have to push forward on the magazine catch, so it is in release position. Then, pull down and out like in the photos. To put the magazine well back on, first place it on the forward axle that holds it, and the rotate it downwards.




Now, there are two pins that must be removed. Both are located at the rear of the receiver, but on opposite sides. Remember, when putting these back in, the flat screw goes on the left side of the gun, and the extended screw goes on the right side of the gun. They too use a standard 3mm hex key.



Now, there is one final screw you must remove. You do this by folding the stock, and unscrewing it using a standard 3mm hex key.



This is a picture of the three rear receiver screw removed. Notice that the long screw from the previous step has a washer (highlighted green). Do not loose this: it is a locking washer that secures this screw.



Next, to remove the lower receiver, you must follow the two pictures above. What you must do is take your finger, and physically push the hopup unit forward. It should be easy because it is spring loaded. When that is pushed forward, continue to the next step:




You must now simultaneously complete the step above, while pulling up on the receiver as show. The lower receiver should easily rotate upwards if the hopup is moved out of the way. Make sure you disconnect the wires as well.



This is a picture of the lower receiver after you remove it. Use it as a reference.

***This is the hopup chamber breakdown portion of this guide. If you only need to get to the mechbox, skip down to the next asterisk set***




I’m sure you have already done this in your time of owning the G36, but ill explain anyways. You must remove the fore-grip of the gun by easily pulling out the forward receiver pin. It is not screwed in or attached, it just pushes out. Then, just slide your fore-grip forward.



Locate the three receiver screws on the outside of the gun that secures the gas chamber to the gun. Note that there is a nut at the opposite side of every bolt, so make sure not to loose either piece.





Now, use a Phillips head screwdriver to unscrew each bolt. It is highly probably that once you start initially unscrewing it, the nut at the other side will fall out. Be ready to catch it or secure it from rolling off your work-area. Also, note that the shortest of the 3 bolts is the highest up one on the receiver, the one that goes through the large scope rail system.



Next, you have to pull the gas tube forward. The wire connector at the magazine well side of the gas tube may get caught on the receiver. Make sure to move it out of the way before tugging on the gas tube so you don’t cause damage to your connector.



This is the entire gas tube removed. Not the hopup chamber at the right.



Remove the hopup chamber from the gas tube by pushing forward on the hopup (the same way you did when removing the receiver) and then rotate the hopup 90 degrees. Since it is spring loaded, it should now come right out.




Now, slide the barrel and hopup unit out of the gas chamber as shown, it should be an easy slide. If it ever gets a bit tough, spray some silicone oil on the outside of the inner barrel for smooth action.



Proceed by removing the hopup clip; it should pop off easily when you apply force.



Now, move the hopup dial away from the hopup chamber and slide it down the barrel.



The hopup adjustment plastic newbie along with the hopup bucking should then come out easily.


[img]http://img47.imageshack.us/img47/2602/guide37387fv.th.jpg[/img]

Now, while rotating the barrel, pull the hopup off of the barrel. If done right, the barrel should come out with the hopup packing. If the packing gets stuck in the hopup chamber, use tweezers to pull it out.

[img]http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/6200/g36guide0360sh.th.jpg[/img]

These are all the hopup parts. Use this picture for reference.

[img]http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/4610/g36guide0401mg.th.jpg[/img]

To reinstall the hopup, put the new sleeve on the barrel (make sure the groove in the sleeve/packing matches with the groove on the outside of the inner barrel). Then, push the barrel all the way into the hopup chamber. The barrel groove should be facing downwards when sliding the barrel onto the hopup (downwards meaning the direction the hopup will be pointing when reinstalled in the gun). Now, if you have one of these, slide the small ring-washer down the barrel and just lightly push it in between the hopup and barrel. This will stabilize and “square away” the barrel.

[img]http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/3748/g36guide0413gs.th.jpg[/img]

Put in the hopup bucking and adjustment newbie into the hole at the top of the hopup as shown.



[img]http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/4092/guide42430qp.th.jpg[/img]

Now, slide the hopup adjustment wheel back onto the hopup. When pushing it in all the way, make sure the grooves on the inside of the adjustment wheel line up with the extension of the plastic adjustment newbie.

[img]http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/9729/guide44455kv.th.jpg[/img]

This is the finished hopup. Also, on the second picture, you can see how the hopup bucking should look when fully “on”. It should also be facing downwards, in the same direction as the barrel groove. If your hopup is perfectly perpendicular to the ground, you will get the most accurate hopup system. It is never bad to be a perfectionist here.

[img]http://img224.imageshack.us/img224/2369/g36guide0480bn.th.jpg[/img]

Now remount the hopup by pushing it in against the spring tension, and then rotating it 90 degrees in the opposite direction. It should then pop out a bit slightly and lock.

***This marks the end of the hopup portion, now on to the lower receiver breakdown***

[img]http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/437/guide49509tz.th.jpg[/img]

Here are two angles of the lower receiver to be used as reference points before you start.

Start by grabbing your 3mm hex key. There is a small pin just over the trigger that locks the mechbox to the lower receiver. Push it out, it should slide fairly easily.



Now, look at your handgrip. The handgrip plate doesn’t actually come off, but it does lock the mechbox to the lower receiver. Use a standard Phillips (it’s easier with a mini screwdriver) to unscrew these two screws.



When removing the mechbox from the receiver, make sure it is set to semi-auto. I have always found that the easiest setting to remove the G36 mechbox. Semi is highlighted in blue.



Start by pulling up on the mechbox. With a bit of fidgeting you should be able to easily pull it out. Watch, out a small piece (I actually have no idea what the use is) will fall out. It is seen in grey on the second picture. Usually it will have a spring but mine fell off. Make sure you don’t loose it; it may play a part in gearbox operation.




If you don’t know how to put the piece back in, use the two pictures above as references.



The two pictures above should also be used as references when getting ready to put the lower mechbox back in.

Thank you for taking the time to read this guide. If this is posted or quoted on a different forum or website, please post my nickname, KrYpTiK, as to give me credit, which would be greatly appreciated. If you have any other questions PM me or use my AIM to contact me.

My contact information:

AIM = mattbez22

-ASF.KrYpTiK

P.S. If you have any special requests for guides, PM me or AIM me and ill write one up for you.


For the larger pics, click on the image a second time in imageshack to fullsize it.

If at all possible, can this be at least catalouged or stickied so it doesnt get lost? I spent wayyy too much time on this for that to happen.

I suppose this doesnt apply to the CA G36s eh?
those things are a beauty

The CA is a clone of the TM, this guide will work.

This is beautiful, you've done a spectacular job!

I will sticky this, as a model for all other wannabe takedown guides.

To take down Mauri gearboxes you need a Torx set

This guide is just down to the gearbox, not to crack it open.

Yep, I will be making a gearbox breakdown guide for v2, v3, and v6 next, and ill pretty much integrate it into one massive post. Ill tip you when its close to being done

Kryptic, I cleaned up the post a little bit so we can fill this with information.

I'm going to use this guide when I install my PSG-1 length barrel.

What a GREAT! example of a very helpful guide! Exelent work!

When Tri meant "clean up thread" he meant "I'm going to erase Kage's idiot comment that was in mid-post". LOL. Btw Kryptik...I don't personally own one, but I was wondering if you'll do an SL Takedown Guide as well?

I'd also like to add:

Please take caution when you tighten the screws on figure (3,4)...if you over tighten you can strip the screw.

SL?

Im very bad with acronyms.

Believe he means SL8/9

I would if I have one. Its basically the exact same thing aside from the stock dismounting.

Ok. Let me know if you make any more guides regarding G36's and such. Thanks for the guide, really in detail, pictures were awesome.

Yup, I will be doing a v3 mechbox guide soon, which is directly tied with this guide.

And....the pictures are what a $1500 camera gets you (I didnt buy it, its the "family's")

Thanks! This is exactly what I needed.

Hurry up and finish the V3 guide! I need to install my Systema parts!

Youre in luck, im taking pictures for it today

Just a little note about that, to take out the screw in the mag well in the CA, you use a 2.5mm hex screw(that's the way it worked in mine at least).

Great guide, just disassembled my CA36 using it.

the only thing different thing about this that I see is that, for the gearbox this part...

Now, there is one final screw you must remove. You do this by folding the stock, and unscrewing it using a standard 3mm hex key.

IPB Image

This is a picture of the three rear receiver screw removed. Notice that the long screw from the previous step has a washer (highlighted green). Do not loose this: it is a locking washer that secures this screw.

You only need to remove the long screw to remove the gearbox.
I found out that after threading one of the side screws from taking it in and out too much...
I have taken my entire CA36C apart since I got it...Broken...
Fixed it though... Pissed me off...
my first airsoft gun too...
took me all night to figure everything out...
no guides no nothing...
just me, my tools, and my time...
and my anger of course...

Wow nice job. And will this work with the Ca G36C?

Didnt bother reading the thread did you?

Would you mind if I added this to my wiki with credit to you and a link back here?

Yeah thats fine with me. Go for it

Kryptik do you know how to remove the stock? I need to put my G&P stock on.

Just fold the stock, and there should be a small allen screw at the bottom of the G36 hinge. Uses a 1.5mm hex, unscrew that, and pop out the big pin.

Ok thanks.

Don't want to step on any toes, since I'm a newbie, but until you get your mechbox tutorial up, here is a decent one that someone else linked to in a different thread:

http://www.airsoftretreat.com/reviews/show...t=67&cat=49

A note about the CA G36C mechbox -

-it comes with a brass spring guide
-it has some sort of plastic ported piston head
-it has a single seal plastic cylinder head
-it has an air seal nozzle
-it has a polycarb piston with a metal first tooth

I broke the gun open tonight with the help of your guide (thanks!).

I replaced the piston head, the spring, and the spring guide, but didn't buy a nozzle or a piston... and I'm glad I didn't... not by plan, but it turned out.

Not that the guide that you linked is v2, I'm working on a v3, and then a v2 afterwards which will be like this one, which I don't want to brag about, but it DOES have the highest quality and quantity of pictures I have yet to see in a guide.

This is a great guide. Coupled with the one that ryball posted, which will have to hold me over until you finish yours, I finally have the confidence to take a peek inside my gun.

A friend of mine volunteered to do my upgrades and it's making me a little nervous. This way I can at least crack it open after he is finished and inspect his work.... I just hope he knows how to shim correctly.

Keep up the good work!

Great guide Kryptic, I tookdown my C for the first time today. Just waiting for the V.3 gear box guide. I want to be able to install stuff myself so I don't have to pay other people to do it for me. BTW that little grey piece is the bolt release, but for the airsoft version it's purely cosmetic.

This saved me on some thread digging.

Anyone know the size of the locking washer for the rear receiver screw? I lost it.

Awsome guide, I think I might try my own upgrades instead of paying a guy on my team to do it. Looking forward to seeing your v3 guide.

Very impressive guide! a great help!, only wish I had the gun though...

the best guide EVER!

will this work for a echo1/jg/gb g36c?

Yes, all of it or at least most of it will be nearly identical.

I want to installl a tight bore in mine. What steps would I follow?

I have a question in addition to the tight bore.

Is it possible to do it without removing the mechbox? If it isn't it's not a problem for me.

I think you just need to remove the 3 screws holding the barrel to the receiver, pull the barrel from the receiver, remove the inner barrel/hopup assembly from the outer barrel, then remove the hop up from the barrel and switch the barrels



You do not need to remove the mechbox.

Nice guide, man. I don't know what I would have done without it when I upgraded my gun earlier today.

Thanks for the guide. Must have taken a bit of time, really appreciate it. I just pulled my jim gong G36c apart using this guide. I pulled the mechbox apart as well, and regreased the gears, the stuff in there looked chunky and sticky.

thanks. nice guide, now I can actually take down the gas tube/outer barrel and replace the barrel. thanks

I have an Echo 1 G36C, and I also am looking to add a precision tight bore barrel and suppressor/silencer.

Is there ANY possibility you could document that process? I am good with this guide doing the take down and prep, but would like to know a little more on the reassembly.

This is an EXELLENT guide, I just finished making a word doc wil all the wonderful images for use as a reference manual.

Thank you.

MORE PLEASE!

First I've used this guide several times and found it extremely helpful in taking apart my many G36's. I have a CA, and several JG/Echo1's and it has applied to all of them.

As for the Barrel replacement, I got this from a Fidget over at the MAAPR forums and it helped when I was replacing the inner barrel. Hope it aids you guys as well!


[Fidget] 8:57 pm: ok
[Fidget] 8:58 pm: do you know how to
break the guns down to the inner barrel?
[
[Fidget] 8:59 pm: ok well with the barrel
in your hand, turn the hopup all the way off
[Fidget] 9:00 pm: then towards the front
of it, there should be a plastic clip, that clip
will pop off
[Fidget] 9:01 pm: then you are ready to
pull the barrel out. BUT make sure that
you have the hop upside down, feed tube
facing up and keep it that way until you
are done
[Fidget] 9:02 pm: slide the barrel out
and make sure you don't get the bucking
caught, after that take the bucking off ,
then take what ever barrel you are putting
in.
[Fidget] 9:02 pm: take the barrel and
make sure that the long notch in it
matched up with the plastic ridge in the
bucking
[Fidget] 9:04 pm: Now pushing all that
back in the hopup, make sure the feed
tube ist still facing up, and the side of the
barrel with the long notch is facing up.
now push it back in. and slide the clip on
[Fidget] 9:04 pm: that should be all you
need to do on all of them