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Which gun to choose

18 Aug 2017

Right now I have $250 to spend and have decided to either get the e&l spartan series akm or the elite force new gen cfr m4. They both cost around $190 so I have extra for external parts and batteries I want. I am not planning on doing any upgrades and would like to keep the gun stock for as long as possible. The three main things I am looking for are reliability, accuracy, and range. Thanks.

  54 Views · 1 Replies ( Last reply by Hellion_Blade )

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G36 Takedown Guide -massive, Full Color!

21 Jun 2006

G36 Takedown Guide
Written by ASF.KrYpTiK



The G36 is a very popular gun now. As this is so, I felt the urgent need to finally create a thorough takedown guide for fellow ASF members. I have been asked many times how to breakdown a G36, so here is the answer: an in-depth, full color guide on the breakdown of an airsoft masterpiece, the G36.

Before we start, make sure to follow a few very important precautions. First, remove the magazine so no bb’s can go into the hopup chamber. After the magazine is removed, shoot a couple of times to clear out any bb’s from the chamber. As an added precaution, always remove the battery from the gun before breakdown to avoid any “accidents”.

Suggested Tools:
3mm Hex Key
Philips Screwdriver
Mini Screwdriver set (optional)
Tweezers (for hopup work, optional)



The first thing that has to be done is removal of the magazine well receiver pin. This is what holds the magazine well to the receiver itself. It comprises of two pieces, the pin and the pin cap. The pin cap is threaded and screws onto the end of the pin. It uses a standard 3mm hex key.



This is the magazine well pin and pin head removed. When you get the two unscrewed, they should come out easily.



Now, you must remove the magazine well. To do this, you have to push forward on the magazine catch, so it is in release position. Then, pull down and out like in the photos. To put the magazine well back on, first place it on the forward axle that holds it, and the rotate it downwards.




Now, there are two pins that must be removed. Both are located at the rear of the receiver, but on opposite sides. Remember, when putting these back in, the flat screw goes on the left side of the gun, and the extended screw goes on the right side of the gun. They too use a standard 3mm hex key.



Now, there is one final screw you must remove. You do this by folding the stock, and unscrewing it using a standard 3mm hex key.



This is a picture of the three rear receiver screw removed. Notice that the long screw from the previous step has a washer (highlighted green). Do not loose this: it is a locking washer that secures this screw.



Next, to remove the lower receiver, you must follow the two pictures above. What you must do is take your finger, and physically push the hopup unit forward. It should be easy because it is spring loaded. When that is pushed forward, continue to the next step:




You must now simultaneously complete the step above, while pulling up on the receiver as show. The lower receiver should easily rotate upwards if the hopup is moved out of the way. Make sure you disconnect the wires as well.



This is a picture of the lower receiver after you remove it. Use it as a reference.

***This is the hopup chamber breakdown portion of this guide. If you only need to get to the mechbox, skip down to the next asterisk set***




I’m sure you have already done this in your time of owning the G36, but ill explain anyways. You must remove the fore-grip of the gun by easily pulling out the forward receiver pin. It is not screwed in or attached, it just pushes out. Then, just slide your fore-grip forward.



Locate the three receiver screws on the outside of the gun that secures the gas chamber to the gun. Note that there is a nut at the opposite side of every bolt, so make sure not to loose either piece.





Now, use a Phillips head screwdriver to unscrew each bolt. It is highly probably that once you start initially unscrewing it, the nut at the other side will fall out. Be ready to catch it or secure it from rolling off your work-area. Also, note that the shortest of the 3 bolts is the highest up one on the receiver, the one that goes through the large scope rail system.



Next, you have to pull the gas tube forward. The wire connector at the magazine well side of the gas tube may get caught on the receiver. Make sure to move it out of the way before tugging on the gas tube so you don’t cause damage to your connector.



This is the entire gas tube removed. Not the hopup chamber at the right.



Remove the hopup chamber from the gas tube by pushing forward on the hopup (the same way you did when removing the receiver) and then rotate the hopup 90 degrees. Since it is spring loaded, it should now come right out.




Now, slide the barrel and hopup unit out of the gas chamber as shown, it should be an easy slide. If it ever gets a bit tough, spray some silicone oil on the outside of the inner barrel for smooth action.



Proceed by removing the hopup clip; it should pop off easily when you apply force.



Now, move the hopup dial away from the hopup chamber and slide it down the barrel.



The hopup adjustment plastic newbie along with the hopup bucking should then come out easily.


Posted Image

Now, while rotating the barrel, pull the hopup off of the barrel. If done right, the barrel should come out with the hopup packing. If the packing gets stuck in the hopup chamber, use tweezers to pull it out.

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These are all the hopup parts. Use this picture for reference.

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To reinstall the hopup, put the new sleeve on the barrel (make sure the groove in the sleeve/packing matches with the groove on the outside of the inner barrel). Then, push the barrel all the way into the hopup chamber. The barrel groove should be facing downwards when sliding the barrel onto the hopup (downwards meaning the direction the hopup will be pointing when reinstalled in the gun). Now, if you have one of these, slide the small ring-washer down the barrel and just lightly push it in between the hopup and barrel. This will stabilize and “square away” the barrel.

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Put in the hopup bucking and adjustment newbie into the hole at the top of the hopup as shown.



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Now, slide the hopup adjustment wheel back onto the hopup. When pushing it in all the way, make sure the grooves on the inside of the adjustment wheel line up with the extension of the plastic adjustment newbie.

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This is the finished hopup. Also, on the second picture, you can see how the hopup bucking should look when fully “on”. It should also be facing downwards, in the same direction as the barrel groove. If your hopup is perfectly perpendicular to the ground, you will get the most accurate hopup system. It is never bad to be a perfectionist here.

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Now remount the hopup by pushing it in against the spring tension, and then rotating it 90 degrees in the opposite direction. It should then pop out a bit slightly and lock.

***This marks the end of the hopup portion, now on to the lower receiver breakdown***


Posted Image

Here are two angles of the lower receiver to be used as reference points before you start.

  85,134 Views · 87 Replies ( Last reply by GoogGun )

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does active breaking cause sticky trigger on semi-auto?

17 Aug 2017

does it? 

 

I run a particular gun at 7.4V with an AB mosfet that I built myself (I build my guns to last, so over-built the electricals)

and I noticed that when rapid firing in semi, especially after the battery's been used a bit, my semi-auto sticks. alot. 

I have to switch to full-auto, fire a shot(s), then switch back.

 

so I got to thinking about this issue...how do I make it NOT stick? is it even possible? 

due to space constraints I am forced to use the 7.4V. there simply isn't room for a 3S lipo.

 

There's already a 12:1 gearset and a GP 160 motor in this gun. 

So I am coming to a conclusion that theres really nothing else that could be done, EXCEPT maybe perhaps AB plays a role in it?

 

 

  55 Views · 4 Replies ( Last reply by Lefse )

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E&L Spartan AKM help

17 Aug 2017

Hello I'm about to purchase an E&L Spartan series AKM and I am not sure what battery to buy for it. I have tried watching youtube videos and googling my question but there always seems to be a different answer. Any help is very appreciated. Here are the different batteries I'm considering.

 

http://www.evike.com/products/32604/

 

http://www.evike.com/products/29460/

 

http://www.evike.com/products/38230/

 

http://www.evike.com/products/38229/

 

Thanks 

 

 

  53 Views · 1 Replies ( Last reply by airborne101 )


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