If you think the FPS number is a concern after having owned a TM AEG, you need to relearn what makes a good gun. The accuracy and smoothness of the gearbox are superior to having just a high FPS number. TM AEGs specifically have very good hop action right out of the box, as effective range is different than just having a high FPS.

I would avoid both the WE M4 and KWA M4 if you are inexperienced in gun workings like this. They both have some proprietary parts so if anything goes wrong you may have a harder time replacing parts.

That's not a KWA rebrand, that is a KWC or KJW rebrand, retailing less than $120-150 online. Unfortunately, Ranger Surplus' selection is overpriced because the distributors they're getting from jack up the prices and then Ranger Surplus follows suit. Either that or Ranger Surplus is looking for a real high profit from it.

Closed per request

The point of a bipod is more for being able to deploy the legs almost anywhere that you have a decent surface on, also considering that the bipod goes with wherever your gun goes. You won't find a window ledge on a hill and if you do you can't take it with you.

Sound effects? Most airsoft replicas don't generally make realistic sounds. Some that resemble some sounds like a moving bolt are expensive and gas-powered.

There's commercially made WWII-style weapons by several companies like AGM, Marushin, G&G, ICS, WE, DBoys, ARES, Tanaka, and a few more, depending on what power source you're looking at. There's also some custom makers out there although I don't remember their names.

Off the top of my head there's commercially-made replicas of:

- Sten
- StG44
- MP40
- Kar98k
- M1 Garand
- M1 Carbine
- Luger
- Browning Hi-power
- 1911 (many on the market by TM, KWA, KSC, WA, WE, KJW, etc...)
- Thompson (both military and "Chicago" versions)
- BAR
- MG42
- Mosin Nagant
- PPSh-41


If you need a Europe source you can try look at Arnie's Airsoft forum for more info since they're UK-based.

At this point if it is in very good condition, the only way to get the most value back on it is either selling it or trading it to someone local. According to your profile you're in California so it may not be hard at all to find someone interested in your gun since it's a cheap platform to upgrade with or use as a cheap gun.

If you try to do a transaction online, expect "stingy" buyers and watch out for bad traders. I think you're better off with a good local transaction instead.

It's nothing unusual. It all just depends on what model you get or what generation your model is. Even if colored black it could still be a pot metal gearbox, so don't worry about color.

Great to hear but please don't bump an old thread for it as the original posters are no longer active with this thread. Feel free to create your own thread if you have some substantial content to post.

I think polls are fine but aren't used to their potential. There's usually a few things stopping polls here from being very helpful:

• The creator didn't list enough/correct options
• The question or "survey" can't be answered well enough from the poll choices
• The better answers come from people actually posting in the poll thread than answering the poll
• Not enough people actually see and participate in the poll to give a good representation of everyone

On the other hand, sometimes they're just for fun and for just seeing how many responses you can survey. Not every questions/survey needs to be like something serious or very "important". Some people just want to see how many people like AR variants versus how many people like AK variants, etc...

Some of these also serve well as long-lasting discussion topics, although I think people should avoid participating in ones that are so old that they are no longer relevant in some way.

I'm interested in knowing, why arguably?

This would go better in the General Buying & Selling Discussion section, I will move it there.

Let us know what flash hider and battery you put on it, but otherwise I would only guess you could not get more than 80% at most of the retail price since most buyers would rather just buy brand new directly from a retailer if you price it too high.

I realize that you have created threads asking this same question in both March and April. Please just bump up your old thread instead of creating a new thread every month or whatever time interval, it is appropriate to bump it in this situation. Not getting answers the first time shouldn't be a reason to create a new thread asking the same thing.

March 19:
http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/Res-6-BS...ut-t265898.html

April 6:
http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/Resident...ge-t266956.html

Hm, I have a feeling that you're looking for guns with the term "Full Metal" in the listing. You should not base your decision on that, because full metal is not an indicator of quality. There is a difference between the metal body of a cheap gun and the metal body of a high quality gun. Also, that only refers to the externals, as the internal quality is something different.

All of those links you have posted are kind of mediocre choices. True they are more budget-oriented, but I think you can better quality while still staying in your price range.

If you slightly bump up above $150 to at most say $200 for a base gun, you can jump up to some higher quality. That little price difference does open you up to a few better choices. I can't name a few off the top of my head right now, sorry.

I also would not suggest shopping on Airsoft Megastore unless they have something specific that other retailers do not carry. Their "was" or "MSRP" comparison prices are not really accurate or at least not a realistic standard because pretty much no other retailer charges the supposed "original" prices. If you look at the same models on the other big retailers such as Airsoft GI and Evike, you'll see Airsoft Megastore's "special" prices are the same as everyone else's. It's a misleading practice to trick uninformed buyers into thinking they're receiving some whopping discount or wholesale price or something.

If nothing goes wrong with an Airsoft Megastore order than at best it's probably the same level of quality as a transaction from Evike or Airsoft GI.

It's stiff by design. What you can do is tune your gearbox to be faster and/or have more trigger response (such as a high torque motor as one method). A mosfet and stronger battery can help too.

This thread is a year old and the last post clearly says it has been sold already...

Please read before posting.

It may or may not be easy depending on your ability to work on a gearbox. I am not 100% sure but I think you basically need to disassemble the gearbox and disconnect and/or removing the moving fake bolt piece.

If that's a later-generation JG M16, I'd highly recommend that instead. Current-gen JG gearboxes have very nice internals considering the price. You get metal bushings/bearings, strong orange polycarb piston, chrome cylinder, metal spring guide...

On the other hand unless the CYMA CM.028 has changed in the last few years, it features typical bad clone internals to begin with like plastic bushings and spring guide, really bad grease, pot metal everything, etc...

"NS2" isn't a gas, that's the name of 1 brand's gas system (KWA). Guges Mk3 was referring to green gas/propane.



The problem with suggesting CO2 is that a beginner may get a low quality gun with proprietary parts/mags, especially with replicas that are CO2-only. What you say about weather is good to suggest but only if the person tells us that yes he will be playing in cold conditions.

Something else to mention is that a lot of beginners actually get a gun meant for green gas but comes with a CO2 magazines, like WE or KJW Hi-capa or KJW 1911. I usually try to let them know that their gun can use green gas type magazines instead.

With $150 you still have a decent variety of options on the market. If you can't give us more information to help narrow it down, it won't go too far except everyone recommending a bunch of different M4s or the JG G36C.

I've bought from you before and so have a few from MAAPR. Welcome to this board!

Animals for consumption is one thing, but firearms and replicas are another. Anyways, if it's illegal in your residence you shouldn't be talking about it publicly. I am going to close this thread for now.

Something to note is that the plastic tube thing is standard in the M60 box mags, it's not some kind of custom modification.

G&G's G3 hop-up unit may not be 1:1 TM-spec, be careful about that. It could be off by a little bit, or it may be but I'm not sure.

A Flash mag is a specific type of hi-cap mag, originally created by Lonex and now is sold or cloned by several other brands. It still works the same internally except that to wind up the clock spring inside you pull a metal cord a few times as opposed to spinning a dial for a minute. It's very fast and convenient, and they're available for different gun types now like M4, AK, and G36. They're also pretty solid and externally pretty nice so the extra cost is justified.

Some self-winding mags, specifically larger drum mags, work fine, it's just that the lower-cost ones aren't always that great. I see it as a hit-or-miss deal, either yours works totally fine with no issue or it breaks very quickly.

Hi, try making a new thread with your question instead of posting in this thread. This is a review thread and it's also like 3 years old, so you won't find your help here. Try posting a new thread in either the Upgrades section or the Gas pistols section.