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alberty
Posted on: Yesterday, 10:29 PM


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QUOTE (desktopgrass @ Apr 15 2014, 07:02 PM) *
I am considering a umarex/s&t/aeres iwi tavor-21. It's the explorer model with a metal gearbox.

The owner says the rifle won't fire and it makes a clicking sound.

So, what would be a reasonable amount for me to offer him?

Thanks


I think that's a conflict in name, isn't the "Explorer" version supposed to be the one with the plastic/polymer gearbox shell, and not the metal gearbox shell?
  Forum: General Buying & Selling Discussions · Post Preview: #18768443 · Replies: 3 · Views: 60

alberty
Posted on: Yesterday, 08:31 PM


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QUOTE (Buzzkill42 @ Apr 15 2014, 05:52 PM) *
Yes, technically every time you fire on semi auto you release the spring tension. on most aegs a single trigger pull on semi auto will cycle the gear box once thus returning the spring to its most uncompressed. On full auto, sometimes, when you release the trigger it can be half way cycled and leave the spring compressed. A single trigger pull on semi auto will cycle the gun once and bring it back to rest position. This is mag in or mag out.


I don't think that's correct. Depending on your internal setup and what battery you are using, you can get overspin, whether minor or major, on semi-auto, leading to the piston being in the rear/cocked position sometimes. That's why I tried to point out that it's not an "absolute" that shooting on semi-auto is a complete gearbox "reset'.

So that's why I also said that putting in a weaker battery or a battery that's low on power will help get the gearbox close to "reset". Because there would be less power going through, there would be less overspin when you shoot on semi-auto.

Also, depending on your exact setup, it is possible to get a difference in piston position between regular firing and dry-firing. I think it's due to the theory about air break/cushion, the difference between having a BB in the chamber or not.
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #18768406 · Replies: 21 · Views: 304

alberty
Posted on: Yesterday, 08:24 PM


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QUOTE (MP5User @ Apr 15 2014, 05:43 PM) *


That's close, but not exactly the same model. The product that airsoftisawesome45 posted a link to has the ambidextrous firing control switch and the QD sling mounts built-in in the lower receiver.
  Forum: Which Gun Should I Get · Post Preview: #18768405 · Replies: 7 · Views: 114

alberty
Posted on: Yesterday, 08:22 PM


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QUOTE (SgNomad @ Apr 15 2014, 06:40 PM) *
On the ump


Which model are you referring to then? I know the G&G UMP has pneumatic blowaback, which is not linked to the piston movement by physical linkage.
  Forum: Which Gun Should I Get · Post Preview: #18768404 · Replies: 8 · Views: 145

alberty
Posted on: Yesterday, 04:41 AM


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What do you need to improve on? That would help us tell you tips.


For really generic stuff that might apply to you:

- Try to close in the distance, the tri-shot is limited on range and from a distance the spread will affect whether you're hitting your intended target area or not.

- If you have enough shells or time, try to stay topped off with fresh shells. Since you only get about 10 shots with each 30-round shell, you don't want to fire dry at the worst time possible.

- Since your gun is pump-action, make sure you can snapshoot well or at least use cover well because your "rate of fire" will be slow compared to other guns. This is not to say that volume of fire wins, but you're only putting out one shot at a time so don't be exposed for longer than you need to.

- Since your gun is pump-action and has a limited ammo capacity per reload, don't try to waste energy and ammo with actions like suppressing/covering fire unless necessary. It's not the gun for that type of action.

- Consider a sidearm/backup. It's easy to accidentally mess up the loading nozzle from a bad pump, or you might be caught by the enemy in between reloading shells or running out of shells entirely.
  Forum: High Quality Shotguns · Post Preview: #18768311 · Replies: 4 · Views: 51

alberty
Posted on: Yesterday, 04:27 AM


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QUOTE (sarugetyou @ Apr 15 2014, 04:34 AM) *
thanks for replying but I have 1 question;

so.. shooting in semi-auto should release the spring tension, right?
but does it have to be done without the bb (dry firing) or it doesn't matter as long as it's in semi?


Shorter answer:

It would be better for you to take out your magazine and fire a few times on semi-auto (aka, try to dry-fire it). This will make sure you don't leave a BB ready to fire in the gun, and pretty much gets your spring/piston near the rest position (unless you have possible high speed setup or overspin as I mentioned earlier).

This overall is not something to worry about, it's not supposed to be a very complicated procedure. Simply, when you are done shooting your gun, eject the magazine, point the gun toward a safe direction and fire on semi-auto a few times to clear your chamber and get your spring near rest position.


Longer answer:

Technically, shooting in semi-auto, whether you dry-fire or not, isn't really resetting the gearbox. It's just that when you shoot in semi-auto you often get the piston and spring near the rest position when the gearbox stops moving at the end of the shot.

So when people tell you to dry-fire your gun on semi-auto at the end of the day, it's a suggestion to get your spring and piston near the rest position.

This is a general tip to follow because if you were shooting on full-auto and just stopped, you may have the spring and piston in the rear, "cocked" position, which leads to what people say about spring compression.
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #18768310 · Replies: 21 · Views: 304

alberty
Posted on: Yesterday, 02:11 AM


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QUOTE (Titan24 @ Apr 15 2014, 02:09 AM) *
I hope I'm not to late but DO NOT GET ARES if you are upgrading anything internally you can get a much better upgradeable gun with a combat machine with that price and combat machines aren't even that good -.- I had one and it works but it has a micro trigger which is bad if u want to upgrade internally but if not your fine.


What? G&G AEGs don't usually have a micro switch trigger.
  Forum: Which Gun Should I Get · Post Preview: #18768305 · Replies: 24 · Views: 331

alberty
Posted on: Yesterday, 02:07 AM


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QUOTE (SgNomad @ Apr 14 2014, 07:04 AM) *
One thing I have heard that the mechanical blowback wear out the gearbox faster. Is that true? If so how could you say remove that feture


On what gun?
  Forum: Which Gun Should I Get · Post Preview: #18768304 · Replies: 8 · Views: 145

alberty
Posted on: Yesterday, 02:02 AM


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QUOTE (sarugetyou @ Apr 15 2014, 02:34 AM) *
wow I never thought it would be this complicated..

I bought g&g mp5 sd5... what would recommend for this gun?


Sorry, I wrote a little more than necessary.


Here'a a short summary:


- For your typical AEG, it's okay to dry-fire a few shots, especially to clear your chamber or try to get your spring to rest position

- On some AEGs, dry-firing on semi-auto doesn't get your spring to rest. If so, plug in a weak battery or a battery that's low on power, or tap your trigger until you see/hear the just the piston going forward


For a G&G MP5, I'd recommend a 9.6v NiMh or a 7.4v lipo. For resetting the spring, if you need a weaker battery try an 8.4v NiMh, and if necessary wait for it to get low on power.
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #18768303 · Replies: 21 · Views: 304

alberty
Posted on: Yesterday, 01:29 AM


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For an AEG, dry-firing can give a minor amount of extra stress on the internals, but typically you will not break your gun from the occasional dry-fire, whether you do it on purpose or by accident.

If it were too dangerous to dry-fire your AEG, then we would have a hard time making sure the AEG's chamber is cleared of ammo at the end of day and it would be hard for a tech to test out a gun after repairing or upgrading it.

So, all you need to do is give a few shots on semi-auto at the end of day, with your magazine ejected. That's enough to clear the chamber and typically gets the piston and spring in the "rest" position.

One important thing to note is that every AEG setup is different. So if you have a fast-shooting gun or you're using a strong battery like a good 9.6v NiMh or 11.1v lipo battery, you need to consider overspin and residual power. In other words, on some guns if you dry-fire on semi-auto, you don't always get the spring/piston in the rest position.

If your gearbox allows, look at the piston from the outside and see what position it's in after dry-firing. Listening also helps, as you can also use a weak battery to lightly tap the trigger until you hear only the piston coming forward to a rest.
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #18768301 · Replies: 21 · Views: 304

alberty
Posted on: Yesterday, 01:24 AM


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The decision is up to you. It's up to you to decide what your preferences are.

The Mk12 style RIS is a traditional quadrail handguard. It has more screws and stuff to attach when you install it for the first time.

The NSR style RIS works on the slim, rail-less handguard of the modern trend. Using the keymod system, you attach only the amount of rail sections and attachments you want, therefore slimming down your front end and saving weight.
  Forum: Accessories - MISC. AEG Attachments, & Conv... · Post Preview: #18768300 · Replies: 4 · Views: 57

alberty
Posted on: Yesterday, 01:21 AM


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You already posted this same topic in another section. You should not make identical topics in different areas of the website.
  Forum: Upgrades & Modifications · Post Preview: #18768299 · Replies: 1 · Views: 56

alberty
Posted on: Apr 14 2014, 11:28 AM


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Easiest thing for you to do is to measure the dimensions of an 8.4v NiMh battery pack (2/3A cells) and then look up the lipo batteries on Hobbyking that are equal or smaller compared to those dimensions (HK provides dimensions).
  Forum: AEG (Automatic Electric Guns) Rifles & SMGs · Post Preview: #18768221 · Replies: 1 · Views: 113

alberty
Posted on: Apr 13 2014, 10:36 PM


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QUOTE (SgNomad @ Apr 13 2014, 10:43 PM) *
I have looked into the ump and the pdr-c and found them to fit my role perfectly but the only things wrong I have with them is that the ump has long mags which make it difficult to use on any sort of vest and the pdrc I have heard had some gearbox wiring issues and the battery compartment was small. The AUG looks to be promisng tho.


The long length of UMP magazines shouldn't be a big problem. They'll be tall, but typical mag pouches usually are tall enough to hold most of the magazine securely, such as an M4 mag pouch. Additionally, you can look at more universal mag pouches like HSGI TACOs which will secure any magazine regardless of size and shape.

If you absolutely need the entire length of the UMP magazine covered, there are lots of airsoft-grade long mag pouches designed specifically around the P90 or UMP mag length for cheap.

For the PDR-C, you say you've heard of gearbox wiring issues...what are the issues exactly? Remember that people may talk about disadvantages from a certain aspect but you have to consider if they affect you or not.

For example, I think you might have read about the wiring being annoying to fit when you open the body and then want to close the body back up. However, if you are not going to be taking out your gearbox at all, then it's not a problem. It's one minor inconvenience you may deal with to change your spring or adjust your hop-up unit once in a while, and shouldn't be a reason to not buy the gun if you like it.

The PDR-C battery compartment is small, but many 7.4v lipo batteries fit in it easily. If not lipo, you can buy a grip extension online, as a few retailers have custom-made ones for sale.
  Forum: Which Gun Should I Get · Post Preview: #18768190 · Replies: 8 · Views: 145

alberty
Posted on: Apr 13 2014, 09:07 PM


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QUOTE (Zemanova @ Apr 13 2014, 09:47 PM) *
this thread reminds me of how psyched I was waiting for the groza and then it coming out as a gbb.
I was like FFFUUUUUUUUU!!!!!!!

I don't do gas guns. too much bs with seals, o-rings, mags, and having to have gas. a non renewable energy source unlike charging a battery


I agree, I personally don't like dealing with gas guns, and would have loved to see good AEG versions of certain guns out there. Of course, technology restraints and engineering difficulties come in to it.
  Forum: AEG (Automatic Electric Guns) Rifles & SMGs · Post Preview: #18768175 · Replies: 26 · Views: 516

alberty
Posted on: Apr 13 2014, 07:38 PM


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If you wanted an AEG with the small feel, here's a sample list of some that might fit that:

- MP5 variants (TM, JG, CYMA, Classic Army, G&G, etc...)
- MP5K (TM, CYMA, Galaxy, Classic Army, etc...)
- L86A2 (aka L22) (ARES, STAR?)
- PDR-C (Magpul PTS)
- AUG (a short variant) (TM [High Cycle], Classic Army)
- PDW (VFC, DBoys, JM, Lancer Tactical)
- UMP, .45 (G&G, DE, ARES Sportline/Umarex)
  Forum: Which Gun Should I Get · Post Preview: #18768135 · Replies: 8 · Views: 145

alberty
Posted on: Apr 13 2014, 07:15 PM


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QUOTE (SgNomad @ Apr 13 2014, 04:42 PM) *
Well they make a custom gearbox where the parts are spread further apart or in a different configuration. They could make the lower recevier a bit longer to house a custom gear box. But then it wouldn't be "completely accurate" to the real thing and also couldn't they just have magpul make it and then be 300-350$ just so it doesn't seem intermediate. Also I don't think a tar is really that bad. Get past the hassle to disassemble and some things not being upgradable its actually a really good gun with the upgrades you could put into it


"Make a custom gearbox" isn't as simple as "Let me design this, okay we're done now start making thousands of them."

To fit in such a small body, you would have to engineer a custom gearbox to fit in there. As renegadecow mentioned in a previous post, current AEG part sizes are little big consider the size of SMGs/PDWs, even the Kriss Vector, so most likely it ends up as a TM-type AEP gearbox, or it is something completely proprietary. And if you get proprietary, that means you're stuck buying specific parts, or stuck entirely if you can't get an OEM replacement or aftermarket upgrade for a certain part.

Magpul doesn't make any airsoft guns. Their name was associated with "PTS" for a while, but it's PTS/Ares making the Magpul licensed models. Magpul PTS AEGs have a high price, such as the Masada, but most people don't think it's actually worth that cost from technical experience with them.
  Forum: AEG (Automatic Electric Guns) Rifles & SMGs · Post Preview: #18768134 · Replies: 26 · Views: 516

alberty
Posted on: Apr 13 2014, 12:55 AM


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QUOTE (MP5User @ Apr 12 2014, 11:16 PM) *
And where/what gearbox would fit in a KRISS? The system leaves room for the bolt and lower components in the real deal, hence why it was created into a GBB.


Agreed, would end up being a proprietary gearbox, possibly including a major design flaw.
  Forum: AEG (Automatic Electric Guns) Rifles & SMGs · Post Preview: #18768076 · Replies: 26 · Views: 516

alberty
Posted on: Apr 11 2014, 04:01 PM


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I want to give an opinion different than gas...I might recommend an AEG. With an AEG, I think the biggest advantages would be the battery power source and not having to worry about the magazines much. With an AEG, you just charge your battery at home, put it into your gun, and load and start shooting. When it gets low, you swap and you're ready to go again.

While AEGs are not completely 1:1 real steel spec (for example, the pistol grip is vaguely different and wider, the mags are a little shorter typically), there exist plenty of aftermarket parts for them. For example the Noveskse NSR from Madbull and most AEG buffer tubes/receiver extensions are mil-spec, as per this user's requirements from his opening post. Internally, most M4 AEGs have the same kind of parts and can be upgraded or repaired easily, you won't usually be dealing with model-specific parts and such.

If you go for GBBR, you have the power source being the green gas or propane stored in the magazines themselves. If your magazine is broken or leaking gas in some way, then you don't really get to shoot long or at all. Also, simply dropping the magazine to a hard surface could accidentally cause some damage to something, such as the feed lips (which are small and sometimes fragile when it comes to airsoft). With AEG, you could get mid-cap magazines and it's much less likely to break when it dropped; an AEG mid-cap magazine is in essence just a magazine with a spring and follower inside, while a GBBR magazine has several valves, o-rings, a gasket, separate feed lip, follower spring guide, etc. and GBBR mags cost more.

Immediately, people will be against it saying "But an AEG's trigger response won't be instant like you would have with a GBBR, unless you do a lot of upgrading work on the gearbox." That's true, and that's one of the unrealistic things I can think of, a small delay from when pulling the trigger to the shot coming out. However, you can get a lot of other conveniences and some money savings from going with AEG, and AEGs can be upgraded to a pretty decent trigger response.

People against my suggestion will also mention how the typical AEG does not have realistic features like recoil/kick, functioning bolt catch and moving bolt, etc...and that is true. That is one appeal of GBBRs, and most typical AEGs do not offer that. A few do, but that means proprietary parts, different systems than the typical AEG.

From a tech standpoint, some people think GBBRs are easier to work on. That would be true as well, especially for someone with real AR work background. But from my experience with both, I almost feel that AEGs are easier in the sense that the system is similar across all different models, and it's almost more "standardized" in that sense. Whereas if I look at several different GBBR models from different brands and makers, sometimes they have little pieces here and there that vary from each, or sometimes they're completely different form each other. This overall is a subjective part on which is easier.

You've mentioned that you have good experience mechanically, so I trust that you would be willing and able to handle any possible maintenance or repair of a GBBR if you choose one.
  Forum: Which Gun Should I Get · Post Preview: #18767924 · Replies: 13 · Views: 201

alberty
Posted on: Apr 11 2014, 03:44 PM


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QUOTE (TrentBrodish @ Apr 11 2014, 12:41 PM) *
Hi, I have had this green gas blowback 1911 for a while and my metal mag for it cracked along the bottom, so it no longer holds green gas. The problem is, I am not sure what mag I have to buy since this gun is a couple of years old and I do not know what other 1911 magazines it is compatible with. Im guessing it is a single stack mag because it only hold about 13 bbs. Links to some magazines that would fit would be greatly appreciated!

Here is a link to Airsplat of the gun that I have.---->

http://www.airsplat.com/Items/GP-KWC-1162-SH.htm

I know it is a KWC and they aren't very good guns but it does the job.

Thank you for the help!


Since you have this topic in another section already, I'll close this one since a few other users and I have posted in that one, giving that more attention.


QUOTE (Daishain @ Apr 11 2014, 12:51 PM) *
As mentioned in the other thread you made

I believe that is a direct TM clone, which means you should have several options.

If I'm right, and bear in mind that I do not yet have first hand experience with this, almost any single stack 1911 gas magazine should do. Look for ones from TM, KJW, or WE.


That's not correct, KWC is not TM clone. Additionally, not all 1911 GBB are TM clone, such as WE, KWA/KSC.
  Forum: Accessories - Magazines & Clips · Post Preview: #18767919 · Replies: 2 · Views: 56

alberty
Posted on: Apr 11 2014, 03:42 PM


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QUOTE (Zemanova @ Apr 11 2014, 03:57 PM) *
its really not that complicated at all. it only comes off one way by twisting CC. if theres glue in there it needs broken loose or softened


Are you saying to unscrew it by moving it in the anti-clockwise direction? I thought that since it's 14mm anti-clockwise (CCW) underneath, to remove an attachment on a CCW thread you need to move the attachment in the clockwise (CW) direction.
  Forum: AEG (Automatic Electric Guns) Rifles & SMGs · Post Preview: #18767916 · Replies: 17 · Views: 214

alberty
Posted on: Apr 11 2014, 03:41 PM


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QUOTE (Daishain @ Apr 11 2014, 12:41 PM) *
I believe that is a direct TM clone, which means you should have several options.

If I'm right, and bear in mind that I do not yet have first hand experience with this, almost any single stack 1911 gas magazine should do. Look for ones from TM, KJW, or WE.


That's not correct. None or not all of the KWC 1911s are not TM clones. Therefore they are not compatible with TM 1911 magazines.

Additionally, not all of the other 1911 GBBs use the same type of magazine.

For example, the WE single-stack 1911 is different than the TM single-stack 1911, therefore their magazines and parts are not compatible with each other...

On the other hand, the KJW single-stack 1911 is a TM clone and therefore they're cross-compatible.

The KWA/KSC single-stack 1911 are not TM clone, therefore they're not cross-compatible.
  Forum: Gas Powered Handguns & SMGs · Post Preview: #18767914 · Replies: 9 · Views: 197

alberty
Posted on: Apr 11 2014, 01:58 PM


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QUOTE (PillJunkie @ Apr 11 2014, 02:25 PM) *
I would like to ask you one last thing ( or at least it should be the last ), I have removed the AK74 flash hider, and I would like to install the AKM slanted muzzle brake.
But there is something left in the barrel that I am also having trouble with removing, it doesn't twist, I've removed the screw that was in it, and I believe this thing needs to get out seeing as my muzzle brake would not fit on it and I'm hoping that there's something inside that I can screw it on. I don't know if there is but it seems like the only option.
My father believes that perhaps pulling it is the way to go however this might break the thing.
Any advice ? In the picture you can see what I mean, the muzzle brake is obviously too small.


The big thing remaining is an adapter. The big AK-74 style compensator screws on that, and I can see in your picture that you have unscrewed it already. After taking off the set screw in this big adapter, you are supposed to remove it by turning it clockwise. Underneath it, there should be a threaded 14mm anti-clockwise tip.

BEFORE trying to unscrew it, I would do a little more online research or wait for some more users to post. I don't want you breaking anything because of me :)
  Forum: AEG (Automatic Electric Guns) Rifles & SMGs · Post Preview: #18767901 · Replies: 17 · Views: 214

alberty
Posted on: Apr 11 2014, 01:56 PM


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I suggest to look for an M4, just like you're doing now. In airsoft, the M4 system has the most aftermarket parts for you to choose from, across the whole world too. Get a CQB length, just you are already looking at, because inner barrel length itself is not the top factor for a gun's accuracy and performance.

Because of the M4 platform, you could change the setup easily. If you wanted a longer inner barrel, you could install that, and then install a barrel extension or fake suppressor to cover it up, and you're done.

Choosing something like an M4 is good because you don't have to worry too much about unique parts. If you choose something else like a bullpup gun, you could be stuck if a unique part breaks because you have to wait to acquire the exact specific part needed.

If you want an M4 that has no proprietary or unique parts, you would need to choose something else besides KWA. However, if you are more of a beginner and you will not be modifying your gun, then KWA is a good choice for a gun you will just be using after buying it.
  Forum: Which Gun Should I Get · Post Preview: #18767900 · Replies: 6 · Views: 138

alberty
Posted on: Apr 10 2014, 11:41 PM


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QUOTE (1homer18 @ Apr 10 2014, 07:45 PM) *
Hey, thanks for responding. mine is not a GBB, so do I still have to apply sorbothane, and radius the cylinder window? thanks alot for your help, it means alot.


When he mentioned blowback, he was not referring to the gas blowback G&G M4s, but the pnuematic blowback AEGs of the GR line. You are correct that your Combat Machine Raider is not one of the AEGs with the cosmetic blowback.
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