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alberty
Posted on: Yesterday, 05:16 PM


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Some general questions to think about that you'll factor in your pricing:

- What model is it? (Classic Army has made many different M4 AEGs over time)
- Is it working? Any flaws, whether cosmetic or functional, minor or major?
- Have you changed any parts on it?
- What are you including with it?
  Forum: General Buying & Selling Discussions · Post Preview: #18769187 · Replies: 1 · Views: 54

alberty
Posted on: Yesterday, 05:13 PM


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I would say that there aren't any specific "pro grade" makers when it comes to airsoft. There are so many different types of airsoft guns and different target audiences of buyers, so it cannot be easy to declare some as top of the line. You have to consider all different factors when it comes to suggesting a brand, but every brand and model may have certain advantages or disadvantages that may affect your opinion on it.
  Forum: Gas Powered Handguns & SMGs · Post Preview: #18769186 · Replies: 3 · Views: 95

alberty
Posted on: Yesterday, 05:08 PM


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Wanted1111, because you are asking this question about something which violates certain laws in your situation, we are going to close this thread to stop further public discussion because we do not condone illegal activity.
  Forum: Gas Powered Rifles & Polarstar · Post Preview: #18769185 · Replies: 4 · Views: 73

alberty
Posted on: Yesterday, 05:06 PM


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In the general view, an airsoft LMG/SAW functions like most AEGs and does not necessarily outlast a regular AEG, it all depends on how you set it up internally and how you use it. A lot of the difference may come from the externals and the inclusion of an auto-winding box/drum magazine.

Certain airsoft LMG/SAW AEGs may have some internal differences like a different gearbox shell design that can possibly take more wear, such as the brick shape of the A&K M60 gearbox. But the rest of the parts are usually standard like a typical AEG has, such as the motor, gears, piston, etc.

That's not necessarily bad, because that means it's easy to do upgrades or repairs with standard-type parts.

So why get an AEG that replicates an LMG/SAW if it functions similarly to a typical rifle AEG? It's usually because of reasons like having that exact gun type for the look and feel or for the rules of a certain airsoft game/field that require you to have that type of gun.
  Forum: AEG (Automatic Electric Guns) Rifles & SMGs · Post Preview: #18769184 · Replies: 4 · Views: 100

alberty
Posted on: Apr 17 2014, 11:05 PM


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In addition to the suggestions that renegadecow posted, I would emphasize looking at the loading nozzle for the BB feeding part. What you've described sounds a lot like my experience with a WE Hi-capa failing to feed after the first shot.

What I saw was 1 of 2 parts breaking on the loading nozzle in my experience:

- The first part was the loading nozzle arm, it's the protruding piece that looks like an "arm" and that's what pushes the BB out of the magazine's feed lip and into the hop-up chamber during each cycle. Sometimes that arm breaks off.

- The second part, I don't know what the name is but it was protruding pieces on the side of the loading nozzle that helped keep it in place within the blowback unit housing. There was one on each side, and sometimes they would chip, leading the air nozzle to fail to return to proper position when firing.
  Forum: Gas Powered Handguns & SMGs · Post Preview: #18768689 · Replies: 2 · Views: 105

alberty
Posted on: Apr 17 2014, 11:01 PM


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QUOTE (Hathegkla @ Apr 17 2014, 11:32 PM) *
I just watched some videos on sorbo pads and cutting teeth for angle of engagement. definitely learned a few things. thanks.


Great, thank you for taking the advice to research, before touching anything.

I would see how your rate of fire is, after you get the gun back and everything. If it isn't very fast, you might be able to get away with not doing AoE correction and sorbo padding, although they would be beneficial to your gun if performed correctly.
  Forum: Upgrades & Modifications · Post Preview: #18768688 · Replies: 8 · Views: 165

alberty
Posted on: Apr 17 2014, 10:59 PM


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QUOTE (redeyes222 @ Apr 17 2014, 10:56 PM) *
Yes I did mean ported. What chart would be more accurate for the orga barrel?


Well the problem here is that you're trying to compare two inner barrels of very different bore range. The first is your stock, "regular" bore 280mm inner barrel, and the second is your aftermarket Orga widebore 400mm inner barrel.

This is why you can't compare the two with that sample chart (from your last post) because that chart compares cylinder port type against different inner barrel lengths of the same/similar bore.

A chart comparing cylinder port type against ranges of widebore barrels again wouldn't help, because you would still need to compare against your non-widebore 280mm inner barrel.
  Forum: Upgrades & Modifications · Post Preview: #18768687 · Replies: 9 · Views: 210

alberty
Posted on: Apr 17 2014, 09:52 PM


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I think the concept is nice, but it would be easy for even 1 thing to fail/break and render the whole thing useless. I would wait on users to get experience with it, unless you want to be one of the first people to try it out.

If it does work well, then I think it's a good product for someone who doesn't own any of those devices that they might use it for, like tracer unit, chronograph, programmable chip thing, etc...cheaper than getting all separate products I guess.
  Forum: Accessories - MISC. AEG Attachments, & Conv... · Post Preview: #18768669 · Replies: 2 · Views: 122

alberty
Posted on: Apr 17 2014, 09:48 PM


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QUOTE (redeyes222 @ Apr 17 2014, 10:14 PM) *
Here is my first question. I have the vfc, and frankly do not know the cylinder inside of it. I do know it is bored however. It right now had a 280 mm barrel, and I will be installing a 400 mm wide bore Orga barrel.


- "Bored" cylinder? Did you mean to say "ported"? Also, ported means it's got the hole, but there are different port sizes so that's why you have different "type" cylinders.

- If you're switching from a regular bore inner barrel to an Orga widebore barrel...those charts you've looked up are not going to be relevant to you. The wider bore of the Orga barrel means you need more volume to be able to compare it with a 400mm regular bore inner barrel...
  Forum: Upgrades & Modifications · Post Preview: #18768666 · Replies: 9 · Views: 210

alberty
Posted on: Apr 17 2014, 09:44 PM


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If everything is installed properly, you might possibly get better sound from your gearbox from the gears. What I mean is that, if they shim the gears and adjust motor height properly, then you should have less bad noise coming from your gearbox.

After that, you might get a more consistent FPS from the new piston head, if the o-ring size is good and you don't have air leaks or inconsistencies anywhere else.
  Forum: Upgrades & Modifications · Post Preview: #18768665 · Replies: 1 · Views: 91

alberty
Posted on: Apr 17 2014, 09:42 PM


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"can you just tell me what the combat machine lacks" is very vague and won't really get you anywhere. A lot of people will give you different opinions on what could be changed.

I instead suggest you try out your gun and see what you would like improved. Then, research what kind of upgrades or mods will improve on those aspects, and if you get stuck on a specific area then you can ask more about it.
  Forum: Upgrades & Modifications · Post Preview: #18768664 · Replies: 7 · Views: 129

alberty
Posted on: Apr 17 2014, 09:39 PM


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For the stronger springs, you'd want a high torque motor so that you won't have any trouble with getting your gun to cycle well. Your 11.1v lipo battery should be giving you a respectable rate of fire even with a high torque motor, unless you have a particular motor that is good in torque but slow in continuous speed overall.

If your setup is achieving a very fast rate of fire, then you may possible want to think about small mods that help improve the reliability of your gearbox, such as angle-of-engagement correction and sorbo padding. If you don't know what those mean, look them up for some research before touching any parts.
  Forum: Upgrades & Modifications · Post Preview: #18768663 · Replies: 8 · Views: 165

alberty
Posted on: Apr 17 2014, 08:47 PM


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QUOTE (kfrigs @ Apr 17 2014, 08:54 PM) *
Hey guys,
I'm new to airsoft and I recently bought a Tactical Force TF4 Ops, which came with a 7.2v nimh 800mAh, and I'm trying to figure out if I could go higher in the mAh? I emailed Umarex and they said I should stay with a 7.2v battery and the same mAh, but I've read online and talked to a guy at a local battery store in my town that said the mAh is just the length of the battery span, so I'm confused about if I should stick to a 800mAh or I should use a higher mAh?

Let me know

Thanks!


The whole battery discussion goes really deep, but in short you would probably be okay with using an 8.4v NiMh battery, assuming it has the same type of plug that you need to plug it in. A lot of stock AEGs can even handle a 9.6v NiMh fine, but your model is from the cheaper range so I'm sure a good 8.4v NiMh would not only be still safe but would also be a big improvement in noticeable performance.
  Forum: Batteries · Post Preview: #18768653 · Replies: 3 · Views: 55

alberty
Posted on: Apr 17 2014, 08:44 PM


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QUOTE (whutt @ Apr 17 2014, 06:45 PM) *
Well, now that I have figured this out - any one know of a source for magazines and a metal slide? And, is there any cross compatibility so that I can get spare parts?


I think WA is not cross-compatible among all the other brands out there with a 1911, such as TM, WE, KSC/KWA, and KWC.
  Forum: Gas Powered Handguns & SMGs · Post Preview: #18768652 · Replies: 3 · Views: 136

alberty
Posted on: Apr 17 2014, 08:43 PM


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I don't think DBoys makes an EBB G36 AEG, can you double check? I think you have an ARES (sometimes labelled under Umarex) G36 model, because those models have the quick change spring feature and the electric blowback.

Besides the brand identification, I'm going to go ahead and suggest that you probably cannot swap these two gearboxes between your guns. This is because the gearbox you're describing from your G36 is proprietary in terms of what parts it has and what it may fit into. Even if the sizes of the shells are cross-compatible to fit between the different bodies, you also have to consider the different parts such as trigger assembly, selector switch/plate assembly, motor cage, air nozzle, and possibly tappet plate. Because of the blowback, that may also have the gearbox shell be differently shaped near the top.

Shorter answer: major parts of the EBB G36 gearbox are going to be different and probably will not simply drop into your AUG without modification and swapping many parts.
  Forum: AEG (Automatic Electric Guns) Rifles & SMGs · Post Preview: #18768651 · Replies: 3 · Views: 96

alberty
Posted on: Apr 17 2014, 01:53 AM


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QUOTE (Titan24 @ Apr 15 2014, 11:46 PM) *
ok and they both fit on g&p's right?


Maybe...Madbull barrel nut specs are different than G&P imperial threading specs.
  Forum: Accessories - MISC. AEG Attachments, & Conv... · Post Preview: #18768558 · Replies: 6 · Views: 107

alberty
Posted on: Apr 16 2014, 11:58 PM


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Do you have the spring-cocking version?

If so, I think you can get an aftermarket hop-up for better hop-up adjustment and consistency. I think PPS makes it and they're carried in US retailers now.
  Forum: Sniper Rifles · Post Preview: #18768551 · Replies: 2 · Views: 104

alberty
Posted on: Apr 15 2014, 10:29 PM


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QUOTE (desktopgrass @ Apr 15 2014, 07:02 PM) *
I am considering a umarex/s&t/aeres iwi tavor-21. It's the explorer model with a metal gearbox.

The owner says the rifle won't fire and it makes a clicking sound.

So, what would be a reasonable amount for me to offer him?

Thanks


I think that's a conflict in name, isn't the "Explorer" version supposed to be the one with the plastic/polymer gearbox shell, and not the metal gearbox shell?
  Forum: General Buying & Selling Discussions · Post Preview: #18768443 · Replies: 4 · Views: 118

alberty
Posted on: Apr 15 2014, 08:31 PM


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QUOTE (Buzzkill42 @ Apr 15 2014, 05:52 PM) *
Yes, technically every time you fire on semi auto you release the spring tension. on most aegs a single trigger pull on semi auto will cycle the gear box once thus returning the spring to its most uncompressed. On full auto, sometimes, when you release the trigger it can be half way cycled and leave the spring compressed. A single trigger pull on semi auto will cycle the gun once and bring it back to rest position. This is mag in or mag out.


I don't think that's correct. Depending on your internal setup and what battery you are using, you can get overspin, whether minor or major, on semi-auto, leading to the piston being in the rear/cocked position sometimes. That's why I tried to point out that it's not an "absolute" that shooting on semi-auto is a complete gearbox "reset'.

So that's why I also said that putting in a weaker battery or a battery that's low on power will help get the gearbox close to "reset". Because there would be less power going through, there would be less overspin when you shoot on semi-auto.

Also, depending on your exact setup, it is possible to get a difference in piston position between regular firing and dry-firing. I think it's due to the theory about air break/cushion, the difference between having a BB in the chamber or not.
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #18768406 · Replies: 22 · Views: 389

alberty
Posted on: Apr 15 2014, 08:24 PM


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QUOTE (MP5User @ Apr 15 2014, 05:43 PM) *


That's close, but not exactly the same model. The product that airsoftisawesome45 posted a link to has the ambidextrous firing control switch and the QD sling mounts built-in in the lower receiver.
  Forum: Which Gun Should I Get · Post Preview: #18768405 · Replies: 7 · Views: 178

alberty
Posted on: Apr 15 2014, 08:22 PM


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QUOTE (SgNomad @ Apr 15 2014, 06:40 PM) *
On the ump


Which model are you referring to then? I know the G&G UMP has pneumatic blowaback, which is not linked to the piston movement by physical linkage.
  Forum: Which Gun Should I Get · Post Preview: #18768404 · Replies: 9 · Views: 216

alberty
Posted on: Apr 15 2014, 04:41 AM


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What do you need to improve on? That would help us tell you tips.


For really generic stuff that might apply to you:

- Try to close in the distance, the tri-shot is limited on range and from a distance the spread will affect whether you're hitting your intended target area or not.

- If you have enough shells or time, try to stay topped off with fresh shells. Since you only get about 10 shots with each 30-round shell, you don't want to fire dry at the worst time possible.

- Since your gun is pump-action, make sure you can snapshoot well or at least use cover well because your "rate of fire" will be slow compared to other guns. This is not to say that volume of fire wins, but you're only putting out one shot at a time so don't be exposed for longer than you need to.

- Since your gun is pump-action and has a limited ammo capacity per reload, don't try to waste energy and ammo with actions like suppressing/covering fire unless necessary. It's not the gun for that type of action.

- Consider a sidearm/backup. It's easy to accidentally mess up the loading nozzle from a bad pump, or you might be caught by the enemy in between reloading shells or running out of shells entirely.
  Forum: High Quality Shotguns · Post Preview: #18768311 · Replies: 6 · Views: 114

alberty
Posted on: Apr 15 2014, 04:27 AM


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QUOTE (sarugetyou @ Apr 15 2014, 04:34 AM) *
thanks for replying but I have 1 question;

so.. shooting in semi-auto should release the spring tension, right?
but does it have to be done without the bb (dry firing) or it doesn't matter as long as it's in semi?


Shorter answer:

It would be better for you to take out your magazine and fire a few times on semi-auto (aka, try to dry-fire it). This will make sure you don't leave a BB ready to fire in the gun, and pretty much gets your spring/piston near the rest position (unless you have possible high speed setup or overspin as I mentioned earlier).

This overall is not something to worry about, it's not supposed to be a very complicated procedure. Simply, when you are done shooting your gun, eject the magazine, point the gun toward a safe direction and fire on semi-auto a few times to clear your chamber and get your spring near rest position.


Longer answer:

Technically, shooting in semi-auto, whether you dry-fire or not, isn't really resetting the gearbox. It's just that when you shoot in semi-auto you often get the piston and spring near the rest position when the gearbox stops moving at the end of the shot.

So when people tell you to dry-fire your gun on semi-auto at the end of the day, it's a suggestion to get your spring and piston near the rest position.

This is a general tip to follow because if you were shooting on full-auto and just stopped, you may have the spring and piston in the rear, "cocked" position, which leads to what people say about spring compression.
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #18768310 · Replies: 22 · Views: 389

alberty
Posted on: Apr 15 2014, 02:11 AM


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QUOTE (Titan24 @ Apr 15 2014, 02:09 AM) *
I hope I'm not to late but DO NOT GET ARES if you are upgrading anything internally you can get a much better upgradeable gun with a combat machine with that price and combat machines aren't even that good -.- I had one and it works but it has a micro trigger which is bad if u want to upgrade internally but if not your fine.


What? G&G AEGs don't usually have a micro switch trigger.
  Forum: Which Gun Should I Get · Post Preview: #18768305 · Replies: 25 · Views: 437

alberty
Posted on: Apr 15 2014, 02:07 AM


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QUOTE (SgNomad @ Apr 14 2014, 07:04 AM) *
One thing I have heard that the mechanical blowback wear out the gearbox faster. Is that true? If so how could you say remove that feture


On what gun?
  Forum: Which Gun Should I Get · Post Preview: #18768304 · Replies: 9 · Views: 216

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