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KWA 1911 MKII PTP Review and Disassembly


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#1 hydralover

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Posted 21 June 2010 - 05:45 PM

KWA 1911 MKII PTP Review and Disassembly


By hydralover, 6/2010





The 1911 MK series Professional Training Pistols are new on the KWA line of GBBs, and offer a refreshing appearance as well improved performance over previous products. Utilizing KWA's NS2 gas system and designed to be used by law enforcement for training purposes, these GBBs promise a new standard in both realism and performance.

Although at first glance the MK series GBBs all seem similar, the MKII features many differences from the other products in the MK series, including grips, frame, slide, sights, hammer, rail system, etc. Also, the MKII is available in tan. The changes between models are mostly cosmetic; all the MK series GBBs will perform similarly.


Specifications
~330 FPS
14+1 Metal Single-Stack Magazine
Semi-Automatic Action
Metal Slide
Railed Frame
Polymer Outer Barrel
Open Patridge Sights
Functional Beavertail and Half-Cocked Safety


Externals and Appearance
The appearance and feel of the 1911 MKII really amazed me. The GBB is a joy to hold, and feels great in the hands. Although there are slight criticisms to be made here and there, the MKII looks and feels undeniably fantastic .

The 1911 MKII comes in KWA’s usual box showing only the KWA logo and motto. Silly as it may seem, I really do like these boxes, as they portray a sense of professionalism and seriousness pertaining to the product within. I’m glad KWA doesn’t have one of those gaudy bright boxes with lines of BBs going everywhere.



Opening up the box, there is the KWA Operator’s Manual, a description of KWA’s 45 day warranty, an Owner’s Registration Card, a KWA decal, and of course the PTP. I always highly recommend reading at least the warranty, as it contains potentially important information. Also, the manual is a good source of general knowledge about caring for and troubleshooting the GBB.





Also included are the standard items: a small bottle of silicone lubricant, a bag of .20 BBs, a bushing wrench, and a hop-up adjustment tool. The bushing wrench is used to remove the barrel bushing, but really isn’t necessary. Nice to have it, though.





No complaints about the magazine. It’s nicely designed, with solid construction and a small “Made in Taiwan” etching. The magazine holds 14 rounds in single-stack configuration. Made of a metal case with high-impact polymer for the feed lips and bumper, it weighs a good amount and feels solid.





The BB follower locks when pushed all the way down, making loading BBs much easier. I do not recommend allowing the BB follower to slam against the feed lips when disengaging the lock, as this has been known to cause deformation and broken parts in other GBBs. Remember that if you fill the magazine completely with 14 BBs and insert it into the frame when the slide isn’t locked back, the nozzle will push the BBs down, possibly engaging the BB follower lock. This means no 14+1.

An interesting feature is the rubber nozzle seal, which ensures a better seal with the polymer cylinder.



The magazine locks into the frame nice and snug, with minimal wobble. The magazine release is a breeze as well, allowing the mag to drop out of the frame when pushed.


On the MKII, permanently (and I mean PERMANENTLY) affixed is the blaze orange tip, as in compliance to federal regulations. Do not attempt to break it off as with WE GBBs. However, the orange tip is attached to the outer barrel rather than the slide, which is much more pleasant. The outer barrel is composed of high impact polymer, designed to reduce wear and tear due to friction between the outer barrel and the slide. There is very little barrel wobble. KWA does have black metal outer barrels that can be purchased separately.



The sights are open patridge sights, with 3 white dots for the user to line up on target. Personally, I prefer this setup, as I feel it allows quicker target acquisition.



The slide is solid metal, with serrations at the front and back. KWA also etched trademarks onto the GBB, as shown in the pictures. The metal is decent quality, but still has slight burrs and imperfections.





The railed frame is metal, with a unique serial number and other trademarks. The other parts are standard on 1911 models. The sights, slide stop, plunger tube, safety lever, hammer, beavertail safety, trigger, main spring housing, and mag release are all a different type of metal than the slide and the frame, giving the gun a very subtle and very attractive two-tone look. (The magazine is this metal as well). I’ve always been a fan of the 3-hole trigger as well.






Noticeable imperfections in the frame include a gash going down the right side of the frame (near the grips) as well as small spots lower down. I am not sure if this is an imperfection in the mold, or simply my particular GBB.



At the bottom of the grip is a loop that can be used for a pistol lanyard. Handy.


Edited by hydralover, 15 August 2010 - 06:44 AM.

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#2 hydralover

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Posted 21 June 2010 - 05:52 PM

Internals and Disassembly
To disassemble the MKII, first remove the magazine. Then line up the slide stop to the small notch in the slide, and push the slide stop out to the left (You can press the little nub on the right side of the frame). (Note: The slide stop is very hard to take out the first couple times, but it gets easier over time.) Once the slide stop is out, remove the slide by sliding it forward off of the frame.





You can then either use the bushing wrench or your fingers to push in the recoil plug and turn the barrel bushing counter-clockwise. Be careful, as the recoil plug shoots out quite easily. Remove the plug and the spring, then the spring guide as well. The spring guide has a small guiding rod attached to the inner barrel base, a very nice upgrade from other models. This keeps the spring aligned and basically nullifies the chances of slippage. In addition, there is a concave rubber ring around the spring guide, ensuring good compression.





The inner barrel base and outer barrel are connected by the barrel pin link pin. As such, there is play in how they are attached, as is necessary for proper air seal, feeding, and accuracy. What this means for disassembly is that the inner and outer barrels must be as close together as possible in order to be removed. Remove the barrel bushing, make sure the outer and inner barrels are arranged correctly, and remove from by sliding out of the front of the slide.



Since this pin has grooves on one side, you must remove it by pushing it out to the right.





The 140mm inner barrel is of excellent quality. Very smooth on the inside, with a nicely done crown.



Taking apart the inner barrel base, there is a small ridge on the base that lines up with a matching slit on the barrel clip. This ensures that there will be absolutely no twisting of the inner barrel, and guarantees proper alignment. The quality of the hop up rubber will be discussed later.





To remove the blowback unit, first remove the hex screw from the bottom of the breech block. Note how the screw passes through the firing pin, locking it into place.



Remove the breech block by wiggling it out, making sure the firing pin is pushed in. The breech block should rotate upwards, and then can be pulled out vertically.



You can see the two springs holding the loading nozzle against the breech block. Gently unhook these springs, and pull off the loading nozzle.



Here is KWA’s NS2 gas system, designed for better efficiency, crisper cycling, and more consistent output.



Edited by hydralover, 12 July 2010 - 03:09 AM.

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#3 hydralover

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Posted 21 June 2010 - 10:15 PM


Internals and Disassembly (cont.)
Moving on to the lower frame, disassembly is a bit more complicated. To avoid problems, :censored2: the hammer and push down on the impact hammer lock if this has not already been done. This locks the impact frame and the impact pin in place, so you don’t have to worry about the impact pin falling out at the worst times.



Begin by removing the pin at the bottom of the main spring housing. Be careful, as the MSH is spring-loaded and will pop out a bit.



Slide the MSH down and out, then remove the leaf spring. This awkwardly shaped spring is responsible for most of the functions of the GBB, including the trigger, beavertail safety, hammer, sear, etc. When reassembling, ensure that all the prongs of the leaf spring go behind the trigger bow, and it should simply fall into place.



Once the leaf spring is out, engage the thumb safety and pull it out. Be careful, as the safety lever plunger will shoot out, as it is spring loaded. Set both of these safely aside.



With the thumb safety out, flip the frame over. You can then remove the other half of the safety be rotating it counter-clockwise and pulling it out as well. Note how the right safety lever meshes with the flanges on the pin. Push this pin out to the left as well to remove it.







You can now remove the beavertail safety and hammer assembly.



Push out one last pin securing the inner frame, unscrew the frame above the trigger, and pull the frame up and out.







The sear, disconnector, and impact frame are now visible. If you wish, punch out the gold pin and separate these parts.



For reassembly, simply put everything back together. If you are confused and don’t quite remember how the parts meshed, your manual’s parts diagram is a big help.

When reassembling the slide, the hammer must be at least half cocked (preferably fully cocked), and the impact hammer lock must be down. After disassembling, it will normally already be down, but decocking the hammer (or pulling the trigger) will cause it to return to its raised position. This blocks the slide from being able to rest in its proper position, so don’t try to force it. Simply :censored2: the hammer back and push the little nub down, and then reassemble the slide.

Everything in the KWA 1911 MKII PTP is constructed of high quality metal. There are no plastic parts, and all the pieces fit well together and look and feel strong. I doubt that many problems will arise, even with continuous use.

Edited by hydralover, 22 June 2010 - 03:37 AM.

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#4 hydralover

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Posted 22 June 2010 - 03:35 AM

Functionality
The 1911 MKII is extremely comfortable to hold. The textured grips are wider than those of a standard 1911, allowing for more meat to wrap around the frame, giving more control and a more solid feel of the gun. The GBB sits well in the hand, and feels great. And as discussed earlier, the white dotted sights facilitate easy aiming.



The GBB has 3 safeties: the thumb safety, the grip safety, and the half-cocked safety. All three of these are fully functional and reliable. The thumb safety can only be engaged when the hammer is in the half-cocked or fully cocked position, and prevents movement of both the trigger and the slide. The beavertail safety must be depressed for the trigger to be pulled, ensuring the presence of an operator’s hand. Lastly, when the hammer is in the half-cocked position, the trigger cannot be pulled. This is sometimes used in the real steel, when impact on the hammer (such as dropping the weapon) could transfer shock to the firing pin, causing a round to go off unexpectedly (although this mechanism is available, the 1911 is designed to be fully cocked and holstered safely). The beavertail safety is the only one that is perpetually active. The following picture has all 3 safeties engaged.



To decock the hammer, pull it all the way down and squeeze the trigger (the beavertail safety must be bypassed). Then slowly allow the hammer to return to the decocked position. Note that if there is gas in the magazine, the hammer will stop short, as the impact hammer is blocked by the magazine release valve (if you remove the magazine, the hammer pops into place). In this position, a strike on the hammer WILL cause the GBB to cycle.



The hop-up adjustment is done through the ejection port. Racking (and releasing) the slide slowly, the slide encounters slight resistance at a certain point. This occurs when the breech block gets caught by the disconnector.



Although this may have been unintentional, this catch point allows the hop up to be adjusted without holding the slide, a convenient feature. The resistance is minimal during cycling, as the recoil spring easily overcomes the resistance. To increase hop up, turn the dial counter-clockwise.

One issue involves the slide stop. It seems that there is just slightly too much friction between the slide catch and the slide release plunger. As a result, when the slide is manually cocked with an empty magazine inserted, the slide stop does not always engage. When cycling, the movement of the GBB due to blowback is enough to bridge the threshold of friction, so the GBB still reliably locks back after the last BB is shot. Thus, although this minor problem does exist, during regular use it can be easily overlooked. After a couple hundred rounds, the problem improves, likely because the wear caused by the slide catch and the plunger allows more free movement of the slide catch.


Performance
The KWA 1911 MKII chronoed an average of 330 FPS indoor. As expected for gas powered replicas, the initial shots chronoed high (370), and settled down.

In a nutshell, the KWA 1911 MKII performs wonderfully. The semi-automatic action is crisp with nice blowback, the cycling is smooth, and the kick is solid. Again, the GBB feels great to hold and shoot. Slight trigger travel, with a nice, crisp break.

The following accuracy tests were done indoors, lying prone without the aid of optics. Distance was 43 feet, and BB King .30 BBs were used. (Although .30 BBs may seem heavy for a GBB, I found that it gives nice consistent shots without a drastically detrimental loss of FPS.)

All tests were done shooting 13 rounds in measured semi.

Mag 1 (just getting used to the GBB): 8.5 inches


Mag 2: 7 inches


Mag 3: 5.25 inches


Mag 4: 7 inches


Mag 5: 5.5 inches.


Full gas dump (41 rounds): 7 inches.


These groupings are quite excellent, especially considering the size of the GBB. The hop up adjusts nicely and easily, set on only 1/4 of maximum hop up to compensate for the weight of .30 BBs. The ability of the hop up amazed me, since it means that this GBB can handle even heavier rounds.

Accepting and using gas are a breeze. The mag fill is quiet, and the seal is complete. No gas spewing everywhere when you’re trying to fill up. The gas consumption of the MKII was also excellent. Each mag fill consistently gives over 40 rounds. (One time, I got 57 shots out of one fill!). The MKII is a perfectly skirmishable GBB in stock form, and I would definitely feel comfortable using it on the field.



Conclusion
The MKII is yet another outstanding product introduced to the market by KWA. Although it does has a few very minor problems, the GBB is still reliable for general use. Boasting excellent accuracy, gas consumption, and overall performance, this new GBB is a pleasure to use. With its solid externals, the KWA 1911 MKII has stunning looks, feel, and quality. I highly recommend the KWA 1911 MKII PTP (or any other MK series GBB) for anyone looking for a high quality gas replica.




A review of the KWA 1911 MKII PTP is also available on YouTube.
Part 1:
Part 2:

Edited by hydralover, 27 June 2010 - 04:16 AM.

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#5 jdubea

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Posted 22 June 2010 - 07:52 PM

Very nice review hydra. Thorough and detailed. I'm thinking about picking one of these up to go along with my USP, and possibly replace it. You know, getting out of that Heckler and Koch induced haze I'm in a-grin.gif.

Edited by jdubea, 22 June 2010 - 07:54 PM.

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#6 millerwashere

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Posted 22 June 2010 - 08:33 PM

Excellent Review. I'm thinking of picking up my first GBB to supplement my KWA M4A1, and this might be it...
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->Miller Was Here->

QUOTE (martin @ May 25 2010, 09:31 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Hmm, so you are looking for a gun that you won't have to take apart at times... Nothing is coming to mind. Oh, I know! A blow gun!

#7 hydralover

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Posted 22 June 2010 - 09:15 PM

QUOTE (jdubea @ Jun 22 2010, 05:52 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Very nice review hydra. Thorough and detailed. I'm thinking about picking one of these up to go along with my USP, and possibly replace it. You know, getting out of that Heckler and Koch induced haze I'm in a-grin.gif.


Do it. You won't regret it.

QUOTE (millerwashere @ Jun 22 2010, 06:33 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Excellent Review. I'm thinking of picking up my first GBB to supplement my KWA M4A1, and this might be it...


You too a-wink.gif
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#8 dario the scott

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Posted 22 June 2010 - 10:37 PM

Can You get wooden hand grips like the real 1911 for the KWA?
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#9 Slayer750

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Posted 23 June 2010 - 12:45 AM

QUOTE (dario the scott @ Jun 22 2010, 08:37 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Can You get wooden hand grips like the real 1911 for the KWA?


Yes.
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#10 GoLgo 13

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Posted 23 June 2010 - 02:03 AM

Great review hydra, a-thumbsup.gif I've had a Desert colored mark series pistol on my shopping list for a while. I am trying to hold out until the TMP comes out. After that, this is definitely next on the list.



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#11 The Vainguard

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Posted 23 June 2010 - 05:05 AM

QUOTE (hydralover @ Jun 22 2010, 01:35 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
And as discussed earlier, the white dotted sights facilitate easy aiming.


Like to add a couple things to this...

The MK4 has rear dotted sights, but the front one doesn't. Each iron sights are actually model specific (Interestingly enough [At least the MK4 and MK1 were different]). The MK1 had Kimber style sights and the MK4 had Novak Sights. Should be the other way around... a-surrender.gif

EDIT: I wrote a lot of this stuff over in the GG section, it's 3am and I didn't feel like rewriting it. So if it looks the same, it was probably rearranged a little bit or a direct plagiarism (Of my own words, rofm).I put in quote blocks the stuff that is more important, however.

There's small differences between each MK series gun, which is also interesting. When I got to handle the MK1 and MK4, they were slight differences... I don't feel like retyping it, so here's what I wrote in the GG section

QUOTE
As far as the KWA MK Series, I took the time to check a couple out at evike the other day. Specifically the MK1 and MK4. I did find some interesting small details about the gun. The MK1 is based on the old school Colt 1911 and the MK4 is based on the newer 1911 models. Remember that, it's interesting based on what I am about to say. First, the MK1 has slight trigger travel, while the MK4 has none.... Its a clean and crisp break. Second, the MK1 has slightly more kick than the MK4. The MK1 has stronger recoil/hammer springs. The MK1 had a much rougher cycling action than the MK4, specifically at the barrel lugs on the top of the slide. If pulled slow enough, the barrel lugs would catch the slide and you could let it stay hung up on the barrel lugs unless you acted upon it. The MK4 was smooth... er..


Also, if you go to purchase this gun, if you don't know which one to get, I highly recommend trying out each one. Besides these small differences, there are external differences. Some have coned barrels, some have straight barrels with barrel bushings. On the subject of barrel bushings, the KWA MK series breaks down JUST like a real 1911, unlike the TM counter part. Ok anyways, external differences, right. Each series has a different frame, the MK1 didnt have a railed frame, old school Colt 1911 style. The MK4 had a low profile integrated elegant railed frame. As seen here, the MK2 has a higher profile curved rail frame... The MK1 and MK4 both had present MSH with magwells integrated (I rather like the look of the magwells). The MK2 doesn't, and rather, has a lanyard loop. As stated, each MK series has different iron sights. The front and rear serrations on each slide is different as well. And then as seen above, the characteristics of each (Trigger travel, break, springs, and cycling/smoothness ect) varies between each model as well. I was also able to swap the external parts (Not including sights, didnt try that one) between models. So if you're going for a certain look, you can buy say an MK4 and go on KWA Proshop and buy a straight barrel and bushing so you can have a new school frame with an old school flair.

Ok now, break in is better than any WE or KJW or TM even (Only because the slide and frame are metal). The slide of the MK series can get stuck when racked back (By itself, not because of empty mag). I think it was due to the newness, all the guns I've worked on where I've replaced the slide and frame did this. Its the coat of oxidation that needs wearing down, this is a good thing. It keeps tolerances tight. However, after gradual breaking in you'll need to disassemble the gun and preform routine maintenance on it by wiping out the extra aluminum and finish flashings. If you don't the flashings can get into your lower frame internals... And if that happens you'll wish you had just taken off the slide to get rid of the excess.

I have something not fun to say, but it needs to be said.
QUOTE
The biggest let down on this gun (Which is a deal breaker for me) was the recoil/kick. IT WAS AWFUL. When I shot the gun (both of them) I found myself wanting more, it was something left to be desired. You think to yourself now, not a big deal, but I'm telling you... It was bad. Really bad. (Not overall, the kick).

I've shot lots of GBB's and this is one of the weakest kicks I've felt. The kick is a 3/10 if the kick of a TM 5-7 is 10/10 (Remember, the TM 5-7 is a high kick TM model with enlarged piston head and loading nozzle/cylinder).

I'd give the gun a 6.5-7/10. The kick was really the biggest deal breaker for me, it was horrendous. Also, the system they are using is not NS2. It looks like they changed it to the MP7 system, force velocity 2. Which means, for now, no aftermarket support. There's only a few upgrades that will fit this gun. When I looked inside the gun, the gun was very close to the WA Magna system (Or SCW, I'm not 100% on which system is which, I'm a TM guy)


Overall, the gun was good, but not great. I'm sure the gun preforms well, but based on first impressions I really didnt like it (The kick....). I did not put any rounds down range, so I have nothing to say about it accuracy wise. I really did like the hammer/sear contact and the crisp clean trigger break. But really... I cant get over the recoil. The recoil rod, however, is the correct size which means any TM/WA 1911/Hicapa Upgrade recoil springs/short stroke springs will fit in the the MK series.

/Wall of text

Edited by The Vainguard, 23 June 2010 - 05:08 AM.

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Official 2011 Picture Thread
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QUOTE (MARSOCdoc @ Jan 14 2010, 05:15 PM)
please don't spread rumors that im poor and eat cat food. I eat it cuz its delicious, not cuz its cheap.

QUOTE (Night Striker @ Feb 17 2010, 09:02 PM)
u describe a p90 the same way a fat man describes a chocolate cake

#12 jdubea

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Posted 23 June 2010 - 11:14 AM

QUOTE (The Vainguard @ Jun 23 2010, 06:05 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
/Wall of text


Wall of text indeed...

Do you know if there are any aftermarket slides for the PTP?
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#13 The Vainguard

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Posted 23 June 2010 - 04:06 PM

QUOTE (jdubea @ Jun 23 2010, 09:14 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Wall of text indeed...

Do you know if there are any aftermarket slides for the PTP?


Pretty much no aftermarket support yet, this is a new gun with a newish system. The only upgrades I found to work would be recoil springs, as stated, and Shooters Design/RATech NPAS floating valve. Nineball Highflow valves might fit too. If you're really determined, I don't think the hopup cuts have changed on inner barrels through out the generations so a System 7/NS2 USP .45 tightbore might fit too. PDI made a TBB for the MP7, so if you want to be absolutely certain, you could cut down that slide.
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Official 2011 Picture Thread
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QUOTE (MARSOCdoc @ Jan 14 2010, 05:15 PM)
please don't spread rumors that im poor and eat cat food. I eat it cuz its delicious, not cuz its cheap.

QUOTE (Night Striker @ Feb 17 2010, 09:02 PM)
u describe a p90 the same way a fat man describes a chocolate cake

#14 jdubea

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Posted 23 June 2010 - 06:18 PM

QUOTE (The Vainguard @ Jun 23 2010, 05:06 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Pretty much no aftermarket support yet, this is a new gun with a newish system. The only upgrades I found to work would be recoil springs, as stated, and Shooters Design/RATech NPAS floating valve. Nineball Highflow valves might fit too. If you're really determined, I don't think the hopup cuts have changed on inner barrels through out the generations so a System 7/NS2 USP .45 tightbore might fit too. PDI made a TBB for the MP7, so if you want to be absolutely certain, you could cut down that slide.


Alright, thanks. This is my first foray into 1911s and my KWA USP has been great, so I'm looking for one of their 1911s too. Hope I can find a Springfield slide to place on it in the near future though.
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#15 The Vainguard

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Posted 23 June 2010 - 06:20 PM

QUOTE (jdubea @ Jun 23 2010, 04:18 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Alright, thanks. This is my first foray into 1911s and my KWA USP has been great, so I'm looking for one of their 1911s too. Hope I can find a Springfield slide to place on it in the near future though.


My friend wants me to make/get him a Springfield slide for his. If you want in, PM me.
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Official 2011 Picture Thread
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QUOTE (MARSOCdoc @ Jan 14 2010, 05:15 PM)
please don't spread rumors that im poor and eat cat food. I eat it cuz its delicious, not cuz its cheap.

QUOTE (Night Striker @ Feb 17 2010, 09:02 PM)
u describe a p90 the same way a fat man describes a chocolate cake

#16 hydralover

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Posted 27 June 2010 - 04:09 AM

Spent a couple minutes sanding down the slide stop and plunger. The slide now locks back flawlessly. Quick and easy fix.
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#17 skyrider

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Posted 27 June 2010 - 10:55 PM

May I ask about your GBB experience and what GBBs you have owned before?
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#18 The Vainguard

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Posted 27 June 2010 - 10:58 PM

QUOTE (skyrider @ Jun 27 2010, 08:55 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
May I ask about your GBB experience and what GBBs you have owned before?


KWA NS2 Mac11
TM hi-capa 4.3
WE Baby Hi-capa 3.8
WE Hi-capa 5.1

Edited by The Vainguard, 27 June 2010 - 10:59 PM.

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Official 2011 Picture Thread
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QUOTE (MARSOCdoc @ Jan 14 2010, 05:15 PM)
please don't spread rumors that im poor and eat cat food. I eat it cuz its delicious, not cuz its cheap.

QUOTE (Night Striker @ Feb 17 2010, 09:02 PM)
u describe a p90 the same way a fat man describes a chocolate cake

#19 hydralover

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Posted 27 June 2010 - 11:38 PM

^ Also dealt with my friends' KWA g19 and KWA m9.

But yes, I have mostly handled with 1911s and 2011s...

Edited by hydralover, 27 June 2010 - 11:39 PM.

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#20 ganndolf

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Posted 01 July 2010 - 10:17 PM

Wow another outstanding review hydralover. I have the KWA cz75 and its an amazing peice of work too. Especially when you put it side by side to the RS version and see all the detail they put into it internally and externally. But my question is how do you do the takedown the first time? Do you just look at the schematic and go along with it? Because I'm absolutely sure KWA doesn't have these instructions on the net or in their manuals.
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2008 JG m4a1: tan p-mag, G&P grip with heatsink Internal:G&P Metal spring guide with bearings, Gaurder m110, systema bucking, a stock plastic TM hop-up, Evereything else is stock and working great

#21 The Vainguard

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Posted 01 July 2010 - 10:24 PM

QUOTE (ganndolf @ Jul 1 2010, 08:17 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Wow another outstanding review hydralover. I have the KWA cz75 and its an amazing peice of work too. Especially when you put it side by side to the RS version and see all the detail they put into it internally and externally. But my question is how do you do the takedown the first time? Do you just look at the schematic and go along with it? Because I'm absolutely sure KWA doesn't have these instructions on the net or in their manuals.


Yeah, the closest thing you're gonna get from KWA (Or any company. Save freedom art, they included a diagram on how to replace my stock frame with theirs.) is the parts diagram.

Edited by The Vainguard, 01 July 2010 - 10:25 PM.

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Official 2011 Picture Thread
-Kagami-Vainguard-MARSOCdoc-<3Bromance<3-
QUOTE (MARSOCdoc @ Jan 14 2010, 05:15 PM)
please don't spread rumors that im poor and eat cat food. I eat it cuz its delicious, not cuz its cheap.

QUOTE (Night Striker @ Feb 17 2010, 09:02 PM)
u describe a p90 the same way a fat man describes a chocolate cake

#22 hydralover

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Posted 02 July 2010 - 01:14 AM

QUOTE (ganndolf @ Jul 1 2010, 08:17 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Wow another outstanding review hydralover. I have the KWA cz75 and its an amazing peice of work too. Especially when you put it side by side to the RS version and see all the detail they put into it internally and externally. But my question is how do you do the takedown the first time? Do you just look at the schematic and go along with it? Because I'm absolutely sure KWA doesn't have these instructions on the net or in their manuals.


Thanks man.

The first time can be a little bit tricky, especially if you don't have anyone to guide you. However, with a little thinking and close examination, you can teach yourself to tear apart almost anything. Everything has its place, its function, and possibly meshes with other parts. Just pay attention to what's going on as you're taking it apart. Remember what the ultimate goal is, and try to think through HOW each part can contribute towards creating the final project.
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#23 RunnerGunner

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Posted 02 July 2010 - 09:39 AM

All 1911's have the same basic internals. just different variations
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#24 Ex Eagle

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Posted 02 July 2010 - 02:31 PM

you should go to evike and print off some nice targets there. otherwise great review. you picked the best of the 4 imo
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#25 hydralover

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Posted 02 July 2010 - 04:40 PM

I don't like shooting at targets while testing for accuracy. It's better to have a blank slate, and see where the BBs end up.

Thanks :)
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#26 Ex Eagle

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Posted 02 July 2010 - 04:52 PM

QUOTE (hydralover @ Jul 2 2010, 02:40 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I don't like shooting at targets while testing for accuracy. It's better to have a blank slate, and see where the BBs end up.

Thanks :)


how do you know where to consistently aim the gun each time though? since there's no real spot on the paper to aim at for each shot. unless you clamp/mount the gun on something.
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#27 JubJub

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Posted 02 July 2010 - 07:48 PM

I'll be buying this tomorrow, probably put up a little supplement to this review. I'll be sure to look for the metal blemishes that Hydra found. I'll also try to give my own perspective on it instead of retreading the same ground as him.
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QUOTE (chris detrin @ Jul 4 2011, 03:06 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
that and im a mag Professional.

#28 hydralover

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Posted 02 July 2010 - 07:54 PM

QUOTE (Ex Eagle @ Jul 2 2010, 02:52 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
how do you know where to consistently aim the gun each time though? since there's no real spot on the paper to aim at for each shot. unless you clamp/mount the gun on something.


Eyeball it, and hold the GBB as steady as possible. Not exactly exact, but indicative of what you would expect during a skirmish. If I mounted the pistol on something, I expect the groupings would be better.

Looking forward to it, Jub.
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#29 Egiam

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Posted 02 July 2010 - 10:42 PM

Great review!

Which holsters work well with it? I want a way to keep the MK2 (railed) on my MOLLE rig.
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#30 JubJub

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Posted 03 July 2010 - 02:08 AM

QUOTE (Egiam @ Jul 2 2010, 08:42 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Great review!

Which holsters work well with it? I want a way to keep the MK2 (railed) on my MOLLE rig.



I got a condor leg dropleg holster that goes on my belt. I'll see how it fits tomorrow.
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QUOTE (chris detrin @ Jul 4 2011, 03:06 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
that and im a mag Professional.

#31 JubJub

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Posted 03 July 2010 - 11:35 PM

Here is my "mini" review, part one. Part two will come tomorrow after a a day at Desert Fox Fields MOUT facility.

Initial impressions:

The gun is, as expected, a nice heavy weight. It feels a bit lighter then my KJW P226, for a point of reference. I also noticed that the gun is a little bit more back heavy then my own Springfield 1911 (with mag inserted). The manual, being in perfect english, comes with a variety of helpful tips to those who are new to the GBB, such as suggestions for environment usage and how to maintain your gun. Also included is a nice heads up about the 45 day warranty. The usual bbs included are a high quality. The silicone lube included is nice also.

The mag:

The magazine is nice and full metal. One thing I noted was the fact the gas tube thingy (can't think of the tech term) at the bottom of the mag, was seated in the mag deeper then the other mags I have tried (TM hi Capa, KJW M9, KJW P226). This can be easily changed by removing the mag bumper. Also, the mag that came with the gun, as well as the two I bought in addition, had a tiny bit of gas in them. The only annoying thing I have encountered is the fact that loading 14 engages the mag follower lock. Its an easily remedied issue however.

The gun:
The gun is full metal. All the features are the same as noted by Hydra. What made me chose this gun over the other 3 versions was two things: The sights and the grips. The sights are versatile, with the contrast between the posts and the white dots in them making it easy for you to shoot with one eye or with two. Second is the grip. It simply is comfortable. The other grips are all the standard 1911 grip. While it game me the feeling of a little more security with those, griping those for a whole day seemed like it would be painful. Some things to note are the fact I did not find the blemishes that Hydra found, but I did find a very faint one farther down the grip. Other, then that, I found that the slide safety would go into a position half way up when the hammer was down. It would not lock the trigger, but the slide would be locked and the hammer could only be pulled into a half cocked position before it the slide safety would go all the way up and prevent the trigger from being pulled back all the way. I found this occasionally, so I will have to see tomorrow if it is a real issue.

Performance:
I took it into the garage for a quick test run to ensure that everything runs smoothly tomorrow. I was able to unload all the bbs in all three mags at a blistering speed and still have plenty of gas for more. I want to say I emptied all three mags in about 7-8 seconds. Add on the fact it takes me about 1-1.5 seconds to reload and that means I shot about 40 BBs in about 3 seconds! That seems like quite an impressive speed to me. Most important of all is that all of the mags were fairly warm still. This was in SoCal at about 8 PM at night, so it was 70-80 degress in there. I used King Arms Green Gas.

I'll have a true performance review tomorrow.
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QUOTE (chris detrin @ Jul 4 2011, 03:06 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
that and im a mag Professional.

#32 hydralover

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Posted 04 July 2010 - 02:26 AM

QUOTE (JubJub @ Jul 3 2010, 09:35 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
The only annoying thing I have encountered is the fact that loading 14 engages the mag follower lock. Its an easily remedied issue however.


QUOTE (hydralover @ Jun 21 2010, 03:45 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Remember that if you fill the magazine completely with 14 BBs and insert it into the frame when the slide isn’t locked back, the nozzle will push the BBs down, possibly engaging the BB follower lock. This means no 14+1.


That's just how it's designed a-surrender.gif
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#33 JubJub

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Posted 04 July 2010 - 10:31 PM

QUOTE (hydralover @ Jul 4 2010, 12:26 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
That's just how it's designed a-surrender.gif


First Single stack gun for me. I'll keep that little nugget of info for future reference.

Well, I would like this to be an awesome part of my review. It is not. I got out the Desert Fox Fields early in the morning and adjusted the hop up to make it go out a good 50-75 feet. I decided mid day to focus more on the 1911 since I had 3 mags for it. I noticed that the mag that came with the gun had green gass spraying out all over the place. This was because the o ring was missing (I forgot to mention this in my review). It still loaded the gas well enough where this wasn't an issue. I played about 3 games with it and put 7 or 8 mags though it before, mid mag, at the end of a game, when I decided to unload my gun, the slide locks back. But, the odd thing was, it locked back farther then the slide lock. The slide was unmovable. Me and several other more qualified people tried to get the slide to release. One managed to get the slide lock off the gun, just like you would to field strip it. This did nothing. So, I will return to evike tomorrow and see if they will replace it. Up until this issue, the performance was phenomenal. Many of the people at the field thought it was the greatest thing ever. What was disheartening is that one of the regulars remarked that he'd seen this happen three times at the field with the same gun. When Evike replaces my gun, I will commence light stress tests to see if the same issue arises. I hopefully got a lemon. IF not, and this is not something you can fix by disassembling them before hand, then I would NOT recommend this gun to anyone.

Sorry Hydra, a-confused.gif
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QUOTE (chris detrin @ Jul 4 2011, 03:06 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
that and im a mag Professional.

#34 Egiam

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Posted 04 July 2010 - 11:34 PM

QUOTE (JubJub @ Jul 4 2010, 07:31 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
*Snip*


That's too bad. On a lighter note, KWA has a good history of fixing problems with their guns promptly.

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#35 JubJub

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Posted 04 July 2010 - 11:48 PM

QUOTE (Egiam @ Jul 4 2010, 09:34 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
That's too bad. On a lighter note, KWA has a good history of fixing problems with their guns promptly.


Yeah, but I still get screwed on it. Hopefully they can identify the bad part ASAP and fix it within my warranty.
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QUOTE (chris detrin @ Jul 4 2011, 03:06 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
that and im a mag Professional.

#36 hydralover

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Posted 05 July 2010 - 02:26 AM

PMed.
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#37 J_B

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Posted 06 July 2010 - 09:40 PM

Was at my local shop today and they pulled all of them out for me to take a look at. I really liked the MKII. This will be my first single stack AS since I have been running with 226s & G19s.

Glad this review is up. Great review!!!
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#38 chaddylehner

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Posted 07 July 2010 - 09:36 PM

Quick question hydra, this or kp45 tactical?
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#39 hydralover

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Posted 08 July 2010 - 12:37 AM

This. Much sexier.
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#40 chaddylehner

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Posted 08 July 2010 - 10:24 AM

QUOTE (hydralover @ Jul 8 2010, 01:37 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
This. Much sexier.

How much of it is marui compatible? Recoil spring and hammer spring??
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