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G36 Takedown Guide -massive, Full Color!


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86 replies to this topic

#1 KrYpTiK

KrYpTiK
  • Location:Los Angeles, CA
  • Interests:Cars, Girls, Grass, Music, Hangin, Guitar, Airsoft, Home Theater

Posted 21 June 2006 - 12:52 AM

G36 Takedown Guide
Written by ASF.KrYpTiK



The G36 is a very popular gun now. As this is so, I felt the urgent need to finally create a thorough takedown guide for fellow ASF members. I have been asked many times how to breakdown a G36, so here is the answer: an in-depth, full color guide on the breakdown of an airsoft masterpiece, the G36.

Before we start, make sure to follow a few very important precautions. First, remove the magazine so no bb’s can go into the hopup chamber. After the magazine is removed, shoot a couple of times to clear out any bb’s from the chamber. As an added precaution, always remove the battery from the gun before breakdown to avoid any “accidents”.

Suggested Tools:
3mm Hex Key
Philips Screwdriver
Mini Screwdriver set (optional)
Tweezers (for hopup work, optional)



The first thing that has to be done is removal of the magazine well receiver pin. This is what holds the magazine well to the receiver itself. It comprises of two pieces, the pin and the pin cap. The pin cap is threaded and screws onto the end of the pin. It uses a standard 3mm hex key.



This is the magazine well pin and pin head removed. When you get the two unscrewed, they should come out easily.



Now, you must remove the magazine well. To do this, you have to push forward on the magazine catch, so it is in release position. Then, pull down and out like in the photos. To put the magazine well back on, first place it on the forward axle that holds it, and the rotate it downwards.




Now, there are two pins that must be removed. Both are located at the rear of the receiver, but on opposite sides. Remember, when putting these back in, the flat screw goes on the left side of the gun, and the extended screw goes on the right side of the gun. They too use a standard 3mm hex key.



Now, there is one final screw you must remove. You do this by folding the stock, and unscrewing it using a standard 3mm hex key.



This is a picture of the three rear receiver screw removed. Notice that the long screw from the previous step has a washer (highlighted green). Do not loose this: it is a locking washer that secures this screw.



Next, to remove the lower receiver, you must follow the two pictures above. What you must do is take your finger, and physically push the hopup unit forward. It should be easy because it is spring loaded. When that is pushed forward, continue to the next step:




You must now simultaneously complete the step above, while pulling up on the receiver as show. The lower receiver should easily rotate upwards if the hopup is moved out of the way. Make sure you disconnect the wires as well.



This is a picture of the lower receiver after you remove it. Use it as a reference.

***This is the hopup chamber breakdown portion of this guide. If you only need to get to the mechbox, skip down to the next asterisk set***




I’m sure you have already done this in your time of owning the G36, but ill explain anyways. You must remove the fore-grip of the gun by easily pulling out the forward receiver pin. It is not screwed in or attached, it just pushes out. Then, just slide your fore-grip forward.



Locate the three receiver screws on the outside of the gun that secures the gas chamber to the gun. Note that there is a nut at the opposite side of every bolt, so make sure not to loose either piece.





Now, use a Phillips head screwdriver to unscrew each bolt. It is highly probably that once you start initially unscrewing it, the nut at the other side will fall out. Be ready to catch it or secure it from rolling off your work-area. Also, note that the shortest of the 3 bolts is the highest up one on the receiver, the one that goes through the large scope rail system.



Next, you have to pull the gas tube forward. The wire connector at the magazine well side of the gas tube may get caught on the receiver. Make sure to move it out of the way before tugging on the gas tube so you don’t cause damage to your connector.



This is the entire gas tube removed. Not the hopup chamber at the right.



Remove the hopup chamber from the gas tube by pushing forward on the hopup (the same way you did when removing the receiver) and then rotate the hopup 90 degrees. Since it is spring loaded, it should now come right out.




Now, slide the barrel and hopup unit out of the gas chamber as shown, it should be an easy slide. If it ever gets a bit tough, spray some silicone oil on the outside of the inner barrel for smooth action.



Proceed by removing the hopup clip; it should pop off easily when you apply force.



Now, move the hopup dial away from the hopup chamber and slide it down the barrel.



The hopup adjustment plastic newbie along with the hopup bucking should then come out easily.


Posted Image

Now, while rotating the barrel, pull the hopup off of the barrel. If done right, the barrel should come out with the hopup packing. If the packing gets stuck in the hopup chamber, use tweezers to pull it out.

Posted Image

These are all the hopup parts. Use this picture for reference.

Posted Image

To reinstall the hopup, put the new sleeve on the barrel (make sure the groove in the sleeve/packing matches with the groove on the outside of the inner barrel). Then, push the barrel all the way into the hopup chamber. The barrel groove should be facing downwards when sliding the barrel onto the hopup (downwards meaning the direction the hopup will be pointing when reinstalled in the gun). Now, if you have one of these, slide the small ring-washer down the barrel and just lightly push it in between the hopup and barrel. This will stabilize and “square away” the barrel.

Posted Image

Put in the hopup bucking and adjustment newbie into the hole at the top of the hopup as shown.



Posted Image

Now, slide the hopup adjustment wheel back onto the hopup. When pushing it in all the way, make sure the grooves on the inside of the adjustment wheel line up with the extension of the plastic adjustment newbie.

Posted Image

This is the finished hopup. Also, on the second picture, you can see how the hopup bucking should look when fully “on”. It should also be facing downwards, in the same direction as the barrel groove. If your hopup is perfectly perpendicular to the ground, you will get the most accurate hopup system. It is never bad to be a perfectionist here.

Posted Image

Now remount the hopup by pushing it in against the spring tension, and then rotating it 90 degrees in the opposite direction. It should then pop out a bit slightly and lock.

***This marks the end of the hopup portion, now on to the lower receiver breakdown***


Posted Image

Here are two angles of the lower receiver to be used as reference points before you start.

#2 KrYpTiK

KrYpTiK
  • Location:Los Angeles, CA
  • Interests:Cars, Girls, Grass, Music, Hangin, Guitar, Airsoft, Home Theater

Posted 21 June 2006 - 12:55 AM



Start by grabbing your 3mm hex key. There is a small pin just over the trigger that locks the mechbox to the lower receiver. Push it out, it should slide fairly easily.



Now, look at your handgrip. The handgrip plate doesn’t actually come off, but it does lock the mechbox to the lower receiver. Use a standard Phillips (it’s easier with a mini screwdriver) to unscrew these two screws.



When removing the mechbox from the receiver, make sure it is set to semi-auto. I have always found that the easiest setting to remove the G36 mechbox. Semi is highlighted in blue.



Start by pulling up on the mechbox. With a bit of fidgeting you should be able to easily pull it out. Watch, out a small piece (I actually have no idea what the use is) will fall out. It is seen in grey on the second picture. Usually it will have a spring but mine fell off. Make sure you don’t loose it; it may play a part in gearbox operation.




If you don’t know how to put the piece back in, use the two pictures above as references.



The two pictures above should also be used as references when getting ready to put the lower mechbox back in.

Thank you for taking the time to read this guide. If this is posted or quoted on a different forum or website, please post my nickname, KrYpTiK, as to give me credit, which would be greatly appreciated. If you have any other questions PM me or use my AIM to contact me.

My contact information:

AIM = mattbez22

-ASF.KrYpTiK

P.S. If you have any special requests for guides, PM me or AIM me and ill write one up for you.


For the larger pics, click on the image a second time in imageshack to fullsize it.

#3 KrYpTiK

KrYpTiK
  • Location:Los Angeles, CA
  • Interests:Cars, Girls, Grass, Music, Hangin, Guitar, Airsoft, Home Theater

Posted 21 June 2006 - 01:16 AM

If at all possible, can this be at least catalouged or stickied so it doesnt get lost? I spent wayyy too much time on this for that to happen.

Edited by KrYpTiK, 21 June 2006 - 01:17 AM.


#4 Qmeister

Qmeister
  • Location:Woodbury, Minnesota
  • Interests:Airsoft............. and well thats it. sad i know

Posted 21 June 2006 - 10:20 AM

I suppose this doesnt apply to the CA G36s eh?
those things are a beauty
"The answer isn't less guns, it's more." -Denny Crane, Boston Legal
"...Are there any guns in here?" - Brad
"there are a lot of guns" -Denny Crane

#5 Guest_Xhado_*

Guest_Xhado_*

Posted 21 June 2006 - 10:27 AM

QUOTE (Qmeister @ Jun 21 2006, 08:20 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I suppose this doesnt apply to the CA G36s eh?
those things are a beauty


The CA is a clone of the TM, this guide will work.

#6 WizKid009

WizKid009
  • Location:Orland Park, IL
  • Interests:Airsoft; helping noobs gain knowledge of the sport.<br />Computer Programming, mainly Java.<br />Swimming and Water Polo<br />Violin

Posted 21 June 2006 - 10:28 AM

This is beautiful, you've done a spectacular job!

I will sticky this, as a model for all other wannabe takedown guides.

#7 Guest_Sharpshot_*

Guest_Sharpshot_*

Posted 21 June 2006 - 10:31 AM

To take down Mauri gearboxes you need a Torx set

#8 Guest_Xhado_*

Guest_Xhado_*

Posted 21 June 2006 - 10:32 AM

This guide is just down to the gearbox, not to crack it open.

#9 KrYpTiK

KrYpTiK
  • Location:Los Angeles, CA
  • Interests:Cars, Girls, Grass, Music, Hangin, Guitar, Airsoft, Home Theater

Posted 21 June 2006 - 01:26 PM

Yep, I will be making a gearbox breakdown guide for v2, v3, and v6 next, and ill pretty much integrate it into one massive post. Ill tip you when its close to being done a-grin.gif

#10 Guest_TriChrome_*

Guest_TriChrome_*

Posted 22 June 2006 - 10:15 AM

Kryptic, I cleaned up the post a little bit so we can fill this with information.

#11 Heckler und Koch

Heckler und Koch
  • Location:Riverside, California

Posted 22 June 2006 - 04:31 PM

QUOTE (Xhado @ Jun 21 2006, 08:27 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
The CA is a clone of the TM, this guide will work.


I'm going to use this guide when I install my PSG-1 length barrel. a-crazy.gif
IPB Image

QUOTE(ardrummer292 @ Aug 4 2006, 03:17 PM) View Post

OMGhand1 l00k m0mmi3 n0 punc7uati0n!!11l1one!12

#12 Flyingstar

Flyingstar
  • Location:Los Angeles
  • Interests:Playing music,flying airplanes,riding my horse, Shooting &quot;real Steel&quot;<br /><br />&quot;Been there done that&quot;: Fire chief,USAF search and rescue pilot,DA investigator,Police acadamy,paintball team captain.

Posted 22 June 2006 - 06:58 PM

What a GREAT! example of a very helpful guide! Exelent work!
RIDE TO LIVE-LIVE TO RIDE

#13 KageOokami

KageOokami
  • Location:Vallejo, California
  • Interests:Christianity...because I am one. Airsoft OF COURSE, Japanese culture, Japanese martial arts, guitar, piano, car tuning.

Posted 23 June 2006 - 11:30 PM

When Tri meant "clean up thread" he meant "I'm going to erase Kage's idiot comment that was in mid-post". LOL. Btw Kryptik...I don't personally own one, but I was wondering if you'll do an SL Takedown Guide as well?

I'd also like to add:

Please take caution when you tighten the screws on figure (3,4)...if you over tighten you can strip the screw.

Edited by KageOokami, 24 June 2006 - 12:38 AM.

G36 Pride
I love (Yahshua, The Christ, Emanual - That's my name, don't use it in vain)... and I know straight up He LUUUUUUV Airsoft too!!!

Propane doesn't suck, it blows. ANTI-PROPANE!

#14 KrYpTiK

KrYpTiK
  • Location:Los Angeles, CA
  • Interests:Cars, Girls, Grass, Music, Hangin, Guitar, Airsoft, Home Theater

Posted 23 June 2006 - 11:37 PM

SL?

Im very bad with acronyms.

Edited by KrYpTiK, 23 June 2006 - 11:37 PM.


#15 Guest_Xhado_*

Guest_Xhado_*

Posted 23 June 2006 - 11:56 PM

Believe he means SL8/9

#16 KrYpTiK

KrYpTiK
  • Location:Los Angeles, CA
  • Interests:Cars, Girls, Grass, Music, Hangin, Guitar, Airsoft, Home Theater

Posted 24 June 2006 - 12:16 AM

I would if I have one. Its basically the exact same thing aside from the stock dismounting.

#17 KageOokami

KageOokami
  • Location:Vallejo, California
  • Interests:Christianity...because I am one. Airsoft OF COURSE, Japanese culture, Japanese martial arts, guitar, piano, car tuning.

Posted 24 June 2006 - 12:41 AM

QUOTE (KrYpTiK @ Jun 23 2006, 10:16 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I would if I have one. Its basically the exact same thing aside from the stock dismounting.


Ok. Let me know if you make any more guides regarding G36's and such. Thanks for the guide, really in detail, pictures were awesome.
G36 Pride
I love (Yahshua, The Christ, Emanual - That's my name, don't use it in vain)... and I know straight up He LUUUUUUV Airsoft too!!!

Propane doesn't suck, it blows. ANTI-PROPANE!

#18 KrYpTiK

KrYpTiK
  • Location:Los Angeles, CA
  • Interests:Cars, Girls, Grass, Music, Hangin, Guitar, Airsoft, Home Theater

Posted 24 June 2006 - 01:31 AM

Yup, I will be doing a v3 mechbox guide soon, which is directly tied with this guide.

And....the pictures are what a $1500 camera gets you (I didnt buy it, its the "family's") a-cool.gif

Edited by KrYpTiK, 24 June 2006 - 01:32 AM.


#19 DarkViper

DarkViper
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:MO

Posted 24 June 2006 - 09:51 PM

Thanks! This is exactly what I needed.

#20 Heckler und Koch

Heckler und Koch
  • Location:Riverside, California

Posted 29 June 2006 - 01:11 PM

Hurry up and finish the V3 guide! I need to install my Systema parts!
IPB Image

QUOTE(ardrummer292 @ Aug 4 2006, 03:17 PM) View Post

OMGhand1 l00k m0mmi3 n0 punc7uati0n!!11l1one!12

#21 KrYpTiK

KrYpTiK
  • Location:Los Angeles, CA
  • Interests:Cars, Girls, Grass, Music, Hangin, Guitar, Airsoft, Home Theater

Posted 29 June 2006 - 04:31 PM

QUOTE (Heckler und Koch @ Jun 29 2006, 11:11 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Hurry up and finish the V3 guide! I need to install my Systema parts!


Youre in luck, im taking pictures for it today a-grin.gif

#22 Heckler und Koch

Heckler und Koch
  • Location:Riverside, California

Posted 29 June 2006 - 05:27 PM

a-cool.gif
IPB Image

QUOTE(ardrummer292 @ Aug 4 2006, 03:17 PM) View Post

OMGhand1 l00k m0mmi3 n0 punc7uati0n!!11l1one!12

#23 Hick

Hick
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Massachusetts

Posted 12 July 2006 - 04:13 PM

QUOTE (Xhado @ Jun 21 2006, 11:27 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
The CA is a clone of the TM, this guide will work.


Just a little note about that, to take out the screw in the mag well in the CA, you use a 2.5mm hex screw(that's the way it worked in mine at least).

Great guide, just disassembled my CA36 using it.

#24 AZNiNjARaVeR

AZNiNjARaVeR

Posted 12 July 2006 - 09:16 PM

QUOTE (Hick @ Jul 12 2006, 02:13 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Just a little note about that, to take out the screw in the mag well in the CA, you use a 2.5mm hex screw(that's the way it worked in mine at least).

Great guide, just disassembled my CA36 using it.

the only thing different thing about this that I see is that, for the gearbox this part...

Now, there is one final screw you must remove. You do this by folding the stock, and unscrewing it using a standard 3mm hex key.

IPB Image

This is a picture of the three rear receiver screw removed. Notice that the long screw from the previous step has a washer (highlighted green). Do not loose this: it is a locking washer that secures this screw.

You only need to remove the long screw to remove the gearbox.
I found out that after threading one of the side screws from taking it in and out too much...
I have taken my entire CA36C apart since I got it...Broken...
Fixed it though... Pissed me off...
my first airsoft gun too...
took me all night to figure everything out...
no guides no nothing...
just me, my tools, and my time...
and my anger of course...

#25 P90MAN

P90MAN
  • Interests:Airsoft...girls..... soccer.....

Posted 29 July 2006 - 06:32 PM

Wow nice job. And will this work with the Ca G36C?
My p90= RIP my pride and glory is gone!!

#26 Guest_Xhado_*

Guest_Xhado_*

Posted 29 July 2006 - 06:55 PM

QUOTE (P90MAN @ Jul 29 2006, 04:32 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Wow nice job. And will this work with the Ca G36C?

Didnt bother reading the thread did you?

QUOTE
The CA is a clone of the TM, this guide will work.


#27 jballou

jballou
  • Location:USA! USA!

Posted 30 July 2006 - 01:36 PM

Would you mind if I added this to my wiki with credit to you and a link back here?
admin needs a working email address for this account.

I'm in the army, and in Iraq. I have been in most of the units you wish to emulate. I have operated and am familiar with most military arms of the world. Yes, I was with SF, I sat on a base and ran wires and radios for them. I am on my third combat deployment (well, this one's an office jockey). When I post something as fact, it may safely be assumed as such since I have been in airsoft almost 9 years now, and I always deliniate between fact and educated guessing. If I seem harsh it's probably because somebody said something innane that had to be stricken from the record. That is all.
QUOTE (BattlePriest)
Just forget it... you guys are hopeless... I should just quit..

#28 KrYpTiK

KrYpTiK
  • Location:Los Angeles, CA
  • Interests:Cars, Girls, Grass, Music, Hangin, Guitar, Airsoft, Home Theater

Posted 30 July 2006 - 02:26 PM

Yeah thats fine with me. Go for it a-grin.gif

#29 Heckler und Koch

Heckler und Koch
  • Location:Riverside, California

Posted 10 August 2006 - 05:45 PM

Kryptik do you know how to remove the stock? I need to put my G&P stock on.
IPB Image

QUOTE(ardrummer292 @ Aug 4 2006, 03:17 PM) View Post

OMGhand1 l00k m0mmi3 n0 punc7uati0n!!11l1one!12

#30 KrYpTiK

KrYpTiK
  • Location:Los Angeles, CA
  • Interests:Cars, Girls, Grass, Music, Hangin, Guitar, Airsoft, Home Theater

Posted 10 August 2006 - 07:06 PM

Just fold the stock, and there should be a small allen screw at the bottom of the G36 hinge. Uses a 1.5mm hex, unscrew that, and pop out the big pin.

#31 Heckler und Koch

Heckler und Koch
  • Location:Riverside, California

Posted 10 August 2006 - 07:32 PM

Ok thanks.
IPB Image

QUOTE(ardrummer292 @ Aug 4 2006, 03:17 PM) View Post

OMGhand1 l00k m0mmi3 n0 punc7uati0n!!11l1one!12

#32 ryball

ryball

Posted 13 September 2006 - 10:56 PM

Don't want to step on any toes, since I'm a newbie, but until you get your mechbox tutorial up, here is a decent one that someone else linked to in a different thread:

http://www.airsoftre...w...t=67&cat=49

A note about the CA G36C mechbox -

-it comes with a brass spring guide
-it has some sort of plastic ported piston head
-it has a single seal plastic cylinder head
-it has an air seal nozzle
-it has a polycarb piston with a metal first tooth

I broke the gun open tonight with the help of your guide (thanks!).

I replaced the piston head, the spring, and the spring guide, but didn't buy a nozzle or a piston... and I'm glad I didn't... not by plan, but it turned out. a-thumbsup.gif

Edited by ryball, 13 September 2006 - 10:58 PM.


#33 KrYpTiK

KrYpTiK
  • Location:Los Angeles, CA
  • Interests:Cars, Girls, Grass, Music, Hangin, Guitar, Airsoft, Home Theater

Posted 13 September 2006 - 11:07 PM

Not that the guide that you linked is v2, I'm working on a v3, and then a v2 afterwards which will be like this one, which I don't want to brag about, but it DOES have the highest quality and quantity of pictures I have yet to see in a guide.

#34 JaysonP

JaysonP
  • Location:Sands of California
  • Interests:The internets.

Posted 25 September 2006 - 01:24 PM

This is a great guide. Coupled with the one that ryball posted, which will have to hold me over until you finish yours, I finally have the confidence to take a peek inside my gun.

A friend of mine volunteered to do my upgrades and it's making me a little nervous. This way I can at least crack it open after he is finished and inspect his work.... I just hope he knows how to shim correctly.

Keep up the good work! a-thumbsup.gif
I do not believe in signatures. They are a waste of pixels on my screen and terrabytes of internet bandwidth a day.

#35 _maverick_

_maverick_
  • Location:Mililani, Hawaii
  • Interests:Jesus, airsoft, aircraft, computers, BF2 modding and playing, video games. I want to be a pilot!! F/A-22 baby!

Posted 04 December 2006 - 11:02 PM

Great guide Kryptic, I tookdown my C for the first time today. a-grin.gif Just waiting for the V.3 gear box guide. a-wink.gif I want to be able to install stuff myself so I don't have to pay other people to do it for me. BTW that little grey piece is the bolt release, but for the airsoft version it's purely cosmetic.




"Blessed are the peace makers, for they shall be called sons of the Lord." Matthew 5:9

#36 Woody8168

Woody8168

Posted 02 February 2007 - 01:26 AM

This saved me on some thread digging.

#37 Destro Jones

Destro Jones

Posted 07 February 2007 - 07:45 PM

Anyone know the size of the locking washer for the rear receiver screw? I lost it. a-blushing.gif

#38 KILLSHOT

KILLSHOT

Posted 16 March 2007 - 08:34 PM

Awsome guide, I think I might try my own upgrades instead of paying a guy on my team to do it. Looking forward to seeing your v3 guide.

#39 1337sniper

1337sniper

Posted 21 March 2007 - 06:32 PM

Very impressive guide! a great help!, only wish I had the gun though... a-laugh.gif

#40 ADADQGG

ADADQGG
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:United States, Alabama
  • Interests:Airsoft<br />Fencing

Posted 08 June 2007 - 05:56 PM

the best guide EVER!




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