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Vsr-10 Disassembly Guide


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43 replies to this topic

#1 RocketPropeldCorn

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Posted 20 July 2007 - 11:52 AM

VSR-10 Disassembly Guide
By RocketPropeldCorn for ASF

**Some parts shown in this disassembly guide are after market parts. When you take down your gun and the parts are different, you now know why.**



Quick Specs:
Length- 37.5"
Width- 2.75"- 1.5"
Height- 6.5" from the bottom of the stock to the scope mount
Weight- 5.35 oz.
Magazine- 30 rounds
Barrel length: 430mm (pro) 303mm (G-spec)

Anyways, onto the takedown. The first step in disassembling your rifle is to take it down. To do this, you need to remove the two screws pictured here:





Now to separate the stock from the receiver and the outer barrel, you need to tilt the front of the barrel up and then pull it out. Don't try to pull it strait up because there is a small "hook" on the trigger guard that holds the top half of the gun on. (Sorry, I don't have a picture of that)



Now you have a few choices. You can work on the hop up unit, the trigger mechanism, or the cylinder assembly.

CYLINDER ASSEMBLY:

**A zero trigger was used here but the spring guides stopper is located in the same spot. However, it does look different**

Before you do anything, you have to remove the trigger guard. This is simple. Just take out the large screw located towards the back of the trigger guard.



The first step in breaking down your cylinder is to remove the spring guide stopper. To do this, you need to "pop" it out. To do this, you can use a flat head screwdriver, a small block, or even your just hand (it might be a little more difficult). To remove it, all you need to do is pull/push it strait down.





Now that this is done, you can pull the cylinder out just like you were cycling the bolt.



The next step is to take off the cylinder head. If you have already taken out the cylinder pin then you just need to unscrew the head. If you have not removed the cylinder pin then read this guide. To unscrew the cylinder head and not damage it, I used needle nose pliers.

Note: the pliers are in the holes, not closed around the nozzle.



You can now take out and replace/maintain parts.



From left to right, top to bottom: Spring guide, spring, piston, cylinder, cylinder head.

Now you have completely disassembled the cylinder. When reassembling, be careful not to damage the O-ring around the piston.

Trigger Mechanism:

Assuming that you have already removed the trigger guard and spring guide stopper, the next step is to take out the two screws that sit within the red circles in the following picture:









Now that you have taken out these screws, the trigger mechanism should come right off. If it doesn’t, check to see if you have removed the spring guide stopper. If you haven’t, it will hold the trigger box on.

Now that it is off, you can start to open it. Remove the four screws and the entire safety switch.



Now you can slowly pull it apart. This is what the insides should look like:



Now you can take the trigger sear off of its “post” and tap the smaller “post” out of it with a small screwdriver. There should be five parts resulting from this. The trigger sear, the piston sear, the small post connecting the trigger and piston sear, the small spring pushing up on the trigger sear, and the smaller spring between the piston and trigger sear that keeps the piston sear upright.



Now you can swap out parts within the trigger box.

Now reassembling the piston and trigger sear might be a little tricky for some people. To do it, what I do is push the post through the hole just enough so that the smallest spring can fit on it. Slide the spring on it and then fit the piston sear in from there. Now push the post all the way through and it is back together! This picture might help to clear it up a bit:



I assume you can put it back together from there. It isn’t too complex.

Hop Up Chamber:

I think that this is the easiest to work with. There are very few moving parts and almost nothing has the potential to fly out at you.

The first thing you need to do is remove the small screw at the base of the outer barrel. It can be found at the tip of the screwdriver in this picture:



You can now unscrew the outer barrel. However, if the barrel is hard to unscrew is feels or sounds like it is making a scraping sound, immediately stop and remove the screw closest to the tip of the barrel and continue unscrewing. It should go smoothly from there.

Now remove the screws that are circled in red:



Once you take off the large block, you will see this screw:



Take it out and remove the lever also. Now you can push the hop up chamber and the barrel out of the outer barrel.




Now unscrew these four screws and you can pull the hop up chamber apart.

Posted Image

Posted Image



P.S. - If anyone could take a picture of the trigger mechanism with the spring guide in it I would appreciate it. I gave mine to a friend whose USR spring guide broke.
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#2 Sniper_117

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Posted 20 July 2007 - 12:04 PM

Pretty good guide RPC, a-salute.gif
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#3 RocketPropeldCorn

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Posted 20 July 2007 - 01:33 PM

The first picture under the "Trigger Mechanism" section doesn't belong there. I can't edit it either because it says "Sorry, but you have posted more images than you are allowed to". I posted the guide as three posts but the forum combined them into one. So now I'm in a bit of trouble. If a Mod could help me out here that would be great.
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#4 RocketPropeldCorn

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Posted 22 July 2007 - 06:06 PM

Wow, no more comments? I worked pretty hard on this...
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#5 Chris R

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Posted 22 July 2007 - 06:14 PM

Very good RPC, even though I do not yet own a vsr, I now feel that I am completey affiliated with every part of the gun.
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#6 171stSniper

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Posted 22 July 2007 - 07:33 PM

QUOTE (Christafuarion @ Jul 22 2007, 07:14 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Very good RPC, even though I do not yet own a vsr, I now feel that I am completey affiliated with every part of the gun.

This was helpful, I really wasnt to confident opening the hop up. Think it should be pinned
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#7 RocketPropeldCorn

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Posted 22 July 2007 - 08:58 PM

QUOTE (171stSniper @ Jul 22 2007, 08:33 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
This was helpful, I really wasnt to confident opening the hop up. Think it should be pinned

Well, yousee the last picture? If you open the hopup chamber slowly it will all sit there just like in that picture. Nothing in the VSR-10 will just up, at, or away from you.
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#8 Chris R

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Posted 23 July 2007 - 01:24 AM

opening this type of hopup is very easy, don't feel as if it cannot be done as a beginner. :)
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#9 SuicideDevil

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Posted 23 July 2007 - 05:27 AM

Nice guide request pin.
I have had my g-spec for three weeks and taken it apart and had a look in the hop up unit, replaced the spring and in the process of replacing the barrel. Thanks to you I shall now go have a look how to replace the sears when they start to wear.
Cheers dude.

Edited by SuicideDevil, 23 July 2007 - 05:28 AM.

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#10 boom_headshot

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Posted 23 July 2007 - 11:10 PM

Well now, after all the time I have spent on this forum, this is the first time I have ever seen a VSR disassembly guide. I've seen M324, L96, and M24 disassembly guides, but not a VSR guide... what took you people so long to make one?

Anyway, nice job RPC a-thumbsup.gif
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#11 RocketPropeldCorn

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Posted 24 July 2007 - 07:05 AM

QUOTE (boom_headshot @ Jul 23 2007, 11:10 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Well now, after all the time I have spent on this forum, this is the first time I have ever seen a VSR disassembly guide. I've seen M324, L96, and M24 disassembly guides, but not a VSR guide... what took you people so long to make one?

Anyway, nice job RPC a-thumbsup.gif

Lol, I don't know. That's really what made me want to make one. I never really thought about the lack of VSR guides.

Thanks for all of your comments!
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#12 mybeat

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Posted 02 August 2007 - 07:28 AM

thanx for the wonderfull guide, helped me alot while I dissasembled my vsr
While looking at your barrel I see 2 black round thingies, did you buy them seperetly or they came with it? coz mine doesnt have em.
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#13 RocketPropeldCorn

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Posted 02 August 2007 - 09:24 AM

QUOTE (mybeat @ Aug 2 2007, 07:28 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
thanx for the wonderfull guide, helped me alot while I dissasembled my vsr
While looking at your barrel I see 2 black round thingies, did you buy them seperetly or they came with it? coz mine doesnt have em.

Those are barrel spacers. I have three. Two were bought and 1 was made with electrical tape. The third one just doesn't like to come out of the outer barrel.
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#14 171stSniper

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Posted 08 August 2007 - 10:22 PM

QUOTE (RocketPropeldCorn @ Aug 2 2007, 10:24 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Those are barrel spacers. I have three. Two were bought and 1 was made with electrical tape. The third one just doesn't like to come out of the outer barrel.

RPC this was a life saver, I put in a tb today and couldnt get the hop up closed now I see what I did wrong! YAY FOR RPC!!
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#15 AndrewBall

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Posted 21 August 2007 - 10:48 AM

why isn't this pinned? its a good guide, it would be nice to have clearer pictures. I like the trigger mechanism guide because I will need that when putting in the deepfire sears
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#16 RocketPropeldCorn

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Posted 21 August 2007 - 08:50 PM

QUOTE (AndrewBall @ Aug 21 2007, 10:48 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
its a good guide, it would be nice to have clearer pictures.

It was a nice camera until my dad dropped it from 15 feet onto a rock, from which it bouched into a bowl of chili (that is the honest to /THOU SHALT NOT USE MY NAME IN VAIN/ truth). It works still... barely. Thanks for your pin vote though.
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#17 Silent_Shadow

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Posted 28 August 2007 - 11:01 PM

yay! me being bad and reviving old thread!

I really wasnt compelled to start a new topic, so heres my question:

if I get a new cylinder and a new piston, do I have to replace the o ring on the piston with the stock one?


very nice guide btw.

Edited by Silent_Shadow, 28 August 2007 - 11:01 PM.

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#18 mybeat

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Posted 29 August 2007 - 01:35 AM

QUOTE (Silent_Shadow @ Aug 29 2007, 07:01 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
yay! me being bad and reviving old thread!

I really wasnt compelled to start a new topic, so heres my question:

if I get a new cylinder and a new piston, do I have to replace the o ring on the piston with the stock one?
very nice guide btw.

I only know about laylax's piston that comes with zero trigger.if ur getting the same then yes you should use stock o-ring coz that one that comes with zero triger sucks
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#19 AndrewBall

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Posted 29 August 2007 - 06:07 AM

I don't understand what the big deal about reviving an old thread is its better than starting a enw one of the same topic that has less information in it. starting a new one on this would just confuse people. I think its better to revive an old topic than to start a new one. Saves server space and helps the forums load faster. so its actually better for the forum which is already the most unreliable forum on the planet.
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#20 Silent_Shadow

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Posted 29 August 2007 - 09:03 AM

QUOTE (mybeat @ Aug 29 2007, 02:35 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I only know about laylax's piston that comes with zero trigger.if ur getting the same then yes you should use stock o-ring coz that one that comes with zero triger sucks


how about the red piston?

QUOTE (AndrewBall @ Aug 29 2007, 07:07 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I don't understand what the big deal about reviving an old thread is its better than starting a enw one of the same topic that has less information in it. starting a new one on this would just confuse people. I think its better to revive an old topic than to start a new one. Saves server space and helps the forums load faster. so its actually better for the forum which is already the most unreliable forum on the planet.


what do you mean by unreliable?
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#21 AndrewBall

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Posted 29 August 2007 - 01:14 PM

QUOTE (Silent_Shadow @ Aug 29 2007, 10:03 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
how about the red piston?
what do you mean by unreliable?

it crashes every day sometimes more than once.
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#22 Silent_Shadow

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Posted 29 August 2007 - 01:16 PM

QUOTE (AndrewBall @ Aug 29 2007, 02:14 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
it crashes every day sometimes more than once.


that is true. ive noticed that one. I thought you meant the information :P
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#23 mybeat

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Posted 29 August 2007 - 01:44 PM

if u have the red piston u can put it in and check the compression.if it's bad then u need stock oring.
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#24 RocketPropeldCorn

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Posted 29 August 2007 - 06:03 PM

I used the orange piston and I replaced the O-ring with the stock one. I think it is nessisary.
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#25 babacanoosh

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Posted 07 September 2007 - 08:45 AM

how difficult is it replacing the hopup? I'm an expert on tanaka's so is it really any more difficult? Is there anything specifically I should look out for? Thanks!

Oh and im putting in the firefly hard bucking.
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#26 mybeat

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Posted 07 September 2007 - 11:51 AM

QUOTE (babacanoosh @ Sep 7 2007, 04:45 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
how difficult is it replacing the hopup? I'm an expert on tanaka's so is it really any more difficult? Is there anything specifically I should look out for? Thanks!

Oh and im putting in the firefly hard bucking.

its easy.don't loose the screws ;]
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#27 RocketPropeldCorn

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Posted 07 September 2007 - 05:42 PM

QUOTE (babacanoosh @ Sep 7 2007, 09:45 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
how difficult is it replacing the hopup? I'm an expert on tanaka's so is it really any more difficult? Is there anything specifically I should look out for? Thanks!

Oh and im putting in the firefly hard bucking.

It is very easy. No jumping parts and almost everything goes back in easily. The part I find most difficult (which really isn't at all) is fitting the two halves of the shell back together.
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#28 babacanoosh

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Posted 07 September 2007 - 09:24 PM

k cool thanks, my package should be coming within 5 days...will let you guys kow...
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#29 RocketPropeldCorn

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Posted 11 October 2007 - 04:14 PM

I would hate for this guide to go to waste. I worked pretty hard on it... a-embarassed.gif
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#30 Graham Abram

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Posted 11 October 2007 - 04:32 PM

Well, I have just used my magical powers (PM system) to get this topic pinned, hopefully that spell book is worth as much as I paid for it! a-thumbsup.gif

Why am I always the one that gets all the guides and such pinned in the particular forum?

Anyway, an outstanding guide RPC, well written and detailed with good pictures!
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#31 RocketPropeldCorn

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Posted 12 October 2007 - 10:27 PM

QUOTE (Graham Abram @ Oct 11 2007, 05:32 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Well, I have just used my magical powers (PM system) to get this topic pinned, hopefully that spell book is worth as much as I paid for it! a-thumbsup.gif

Why am I always the one that gets all the guides and such pinned in the particular forum?

Anyway, an outstanding guide RPC, well written and detailed with good pictures!

Why thank you. a-jester.gif
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#32 SuicideDevil

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Posted 06 February 2008 - 05:02 AM

Alrite RPC,

I have upgraded all the internals of my g-spec using ur fantastic guide, it really helped me when it came to slotting the trigger mech back together.

I have a couple of problems though,

FYI I have my vsr covered in scrim netting so this may be the root of the problems.

1. The mag goes in and stays in, with a little applied force and the mag catch holds it, I pull back, load up and no BB exits the barrel, turn the gun just a little to the side or upside down and BBs are happy to fly out at some velocity.

I believe this is due to the scrim netting being attached around the outer barrel and stopping the mag from making a decent connection with the underside of the outer barrel. Therefore leaving a small gap where the BB can get pushed out of the cyclinder head instead of into it. I am going to try and remedy this tonight by removing the perpetrating netting.

2. Although making sure my trigger mech was all done correctly my safety catch does not actually stop the trigger from shooting.
The dilemma is that the difference between "S" and "F", the "S" stops the trigger from going all the back (like it should). However the spring is still released.
On "S" the bottom of the trigger moves about 4mm and the F moves the trigger 9-10mm.
Why would the trigger, fire on "S" when the safety catch is doing its job?

quick spec incase it helps (all laylax)
130m spring
HPPiston Red
Spring guide
and stopper
trigger sear
piston sear
cyclinder head
barrel spacers
(soon to be delivered firefly hard bucking)

p.s. does anyone elses mag catch spring fly out everytime the stock is removed? And is there a way to stop it. like hold it in without stopping it function?
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#33 Silent_Shadow

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Posted 06 February 2008 - 09:47 AM

the safety lever problem:

first, make sure that you put your little lever on the hole the right way. then there should be a little spring. put that on top. screw those down. to make sure that it works, when in the fire position, the little tab sticking out of the end of the safety lever should be out of the way of a block sticking out of the trigger mech. when in the safe position, the tab should be keeping the block from going anywhere.

as for the mag release:

if not done correctly, the mag release spring will come loose. what I find helps is if you unscrew all the screws, then pull the barrel assembly out of the stock as straight as you can.
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#34 SuicideDevil

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Posted 06 February 2008 - 10:15 AM

QUOTE (Silent_Shadow @ Feb 6 2008, 02:47 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
the safety lever problem:

first, make sure that you put your little lever on the hole the right way. then there should be a little spring. put that on top. screw those down. to make sure that it works, when in the fire position, the little tab sticking out of the end of the safety lever should be out of the way of a block sticking out of the trigger mech. when in the safe position, the tab should be keeping the block from going anywhere.


Would it fit on the wrong way? and would it fit with the stock the wrong way around? I will double check that put im pretty sure its the right way around. I have the safety lever, spring, then screw. I did tighten the screw although not excessively, can you tighten the screw too much?
The safety catch locks the trigger block in place but I think its not locking early enough.


QUOTE (Silent_Shadow @ Feb 6 2008, 02:47 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
as for the mag release:

if not done correctly, the mag release spring will come loose. what I find helps is if you unscrew all the screws, then pull the barrel assembly out of the stock as straight as you can.


I am getting there, a few more tries and I may have a technique that keeps the spring from popping out.

Thanks
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#35 RocketPropeldCorn

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Posted 06 February 2008 - 03:26 PM

How old is the mag? it might just be coming to the end of its lifespan. The spring might be worn out, which would explain why it fires upside down, but not right side up.
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#36 SuicideDevil

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Posted 07 February 2008 - 04:42 AM

QUOTE (RocketPropeldCorn @ Feb 6 2008, 08:26 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
How old is the mag? it might just be coming to the end of its lifespan. The spring might be worn out, which would explain why it fires upside down, but not right side up.


I have 2 mags, the TM 30 round mag witch is 5 ish months old so 2K BBs at most gone throught it (I always leave the mags empty when not playing to let the spring relax)
And a 50 round mag that is only 1 month old with less than 500 BBs gone throught it.

I found the problem:
1. The mag was not pushed in all the way to the mag well however the mag catch was latched. This is due to the stock and barrel being too far apart as I have scrim netting between the 2 parts.
2. When I used my palm to push the mag in a little more it fired upright.

Solution: I have used plumbers tape to cover the corner of the mag where the mag catch hole is, then pushed a hole through the tape so the mag catch can still hold the mag. This holds the feed end of the mag that tiny bit further into the mag well (as it is a slightly tighter fit) and the BBs feed fine.

My trigger problem was one of two things:
1. The trigger sear is a slight different shape to the stock trigger sear and the metal block attached to the trigger pull (that u see outside of the mech) rises less than 1mm higher than with the stock trigger sear.
2. The new upgraded internals moved the trigger pull (and hence the blobk of metal on the trigger pull on the outside of the trigger mech) down a fraction and the safety catch does not connect early enough to stop to spring being released.

Solution: I added a very small bit of tape to the end of the safety catch and the safety now stops the spring from being released.
Also what could be done is if the small notch where the safety catch lies when in "S" or "F" was moved onto the small raised rectangular block the safety catches the trigger in time as they are closer at this stage in the safety transition between safety and fire.
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#37 Bodie

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Posted 20 April 2008 - 02:02 AM

Sorry if I'm necroposting... RPC that is an excellent takedown guide.. Well written with excellent pictures. It's good to have a picture reference as a Newbie.. Granted I have a lowly bar-10 but it's almost the same thing..
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#38 airsoft159

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Posted 20 April 2008 - 10:14 AM

QUOTE (171stSniper @ Jul 22 2007, 07:33 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
This was helpful, I really wasnt to confident opening the hop up. Think it should be pinned

I agree.
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#39 RocketPropeldCorn

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Posted 22 April 2008 - 07:19 PM

Thank you for the kind words. It was pinned for a while but then it was moved into the Helpful VSR threads thread.
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#40 irock762

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Posted 18 June 2008 - 08:29 AM

if I wanted to clean the hop-up bucking would I take that little black pice out and put it in the water or would I put the whole thing in? PM me thanks.
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