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Aeg Upgrading Guide


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28 replies to this topic

#1 Aimfor1337

Aimfor1337
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Nebraska
  • Interests:Airsoft

Posted 27 December 2007 - 10:26 PM

© Copyright 2010 Aimfor1337 - you must have my permission to use this at other places

The purpose of this along with other guides, is to eliminate the "Which parts can I use to make it shoot ___FPS?" or "What should I put in my gun to make it more accurate?" questions. . I among many members have spent countless hours putting these guides and articles together for you, so use them. Read these if you have a question about upgrading before making a topic. Thank you.

Upgrades for the Armalite/M4 series




Well, the M4 uses the Version 2 gearbox type. so any part that will fit in a Version 2 gearbox, will fit in your m4. (This guide is only including METAL version 2 gearboxes.) Every part can be replaced in your version 2 mech with an upgraded part, of the same kind. (I.E. the plastic spring guide can be changed to a metal one, the nylon bushings can be changed to metal bushings, etc.) So. Here is a guide to help you make choices on how to upgrade your gun to a certain fps or rate of fire. The way I will explain it will be in sections by price and what can be used for that setup. I will also explain ways just to improve your gun's life, or upgrade your compression. (the mods that I will tell you about for compression will be INSIDE the mechbox, not on the hop up.) NOTE: Tokyo Marui puts their guns together in a way that makes them last if untouched. Once the TM Mechbox is opened, or upgraded, it compromises the gun's reliability.

DO THESE UPGRADES AT YOUR OWN RISK, THIS IS ONLY A GUIDE.

Range/Accuracy Improvement:

Well, as you know, range is mainly from good compression, and your guns Hop. (hop up) Reminder: The Gears, Motor, Bushings, Shims, and Anti Reversal Latch/Spring guide do not do not affect range at all. Suggested BBs to use with these setups: .25 gram, High Quality bbs: AE/TM/KSC bbs.

Budget$50


Tightbore Barrels: you can use any brand of tightbore barrels. For cheap, Madbull Black Python tightbores will work. You will need to get the same one matching your stock barrel. If you wish to change the length and add a silencer to cover it, you will need to change the cylinder to the correct type to match the barrel. If you do not use the correct cylinder, your gun will lose compression severely.
Hop Up: If you really want good accuracy, you will need a better hop up bucking. (Hop Up bucking is the little sleeve that goes around your barrel, along with that little nub that pushes it down, to create backspin on your bb and propel the bb further, and straighter.) You will want a hard bucking for 400+ FPS, and a Soft bucking for 399- FPS. The Best Choice is Firefly, then Prometheus, and Guarder or Systema. Firefly has a V Shaped Nub (makes the little bulge in your barrel) and is very effective.
O-ring on your Piston Head: These are cheap, most piston heads take Size #14, buy one at Home Depot, Lowe's, Menards, or any other hardware store, they will improve compression and often times fix your compression problems.
Springs: springs are not a Necessary upgrade to make your gun shoot further, as FPS only gets the bb there faster. You can upgrade your spring to an m110 or an m120.
Metal Bushings: You will need these if you add in a stronger spring.

What it will do: Getting a better hop up bucking and a tightbore barrel, along with fixing compression can increase your fps by about 30-60, and if installed properly, it can improve your accuracy a lot more then your stock setup.

Total Cost: this can vary depending on if you get the spring, or what kind of tightbore barrel you get. A madbull barrel, a new o-ring, and a Firefly Hop Up bucking will cost you around 45-50, not including shipping, and depending where you get the products.

Budget: $100-$150


Tightbore Barrel: With a better budget, you can get more accuracy. In this range, you can Get a Prometheus Tightbore Barrel, (very good) or a Dee's Custom 6.01 tightbore (even better in most cases.) PDI also makes very good tightbores.
Hop Up: once again, you can get a Prometheus Bucking, or a Firefly Bucking.
O-ring on your piston head: Replace it with size #14, if needed.
Spring: You do not have to replace them, but you can if wanted.
Bushings: Need to be upgraded to metal ones if spring is upgraded.
Piston head: Your piston head does not need to be replaced necessarily, but in most cases, an aftermarket head is better then a stock one. Recommended piston head replacement: Systema Duracon Piston Head

What it will do: Increase your guns fps, depending on what spring you get, what tightbore barrel brand, and if you get a new piston head or not. This will also increase your gun's accuracy greatly.

Total Cost: If you got a Dee's Custom Tightbore with a Firefly Bucking, and a new Systema Duracon Piston Head, this should be around 90-100, not including shipping. This price also depends where you purchase your parts, and where you are located for shipping.

Budget: $200+


Well, if you have really no budget on improving your guns accuracy/range, I would suggest the following:

Tightbore Barrel: You can get A Dee's Custom, PDI Precision, Prometheus, these are all good brands. they can range from $60-$130, and 6.01-6.04mm Precision.
Hop Up: If you have a metal body, and would like to replace the whole entire chamber, I would Suggest a Prometheus Neo Strike Chamber. These are very good chambers. You will want to get Prometheus bucking, or Firefly bucking, and get the correct type: Hard or Soft depending on your gun's FPS. This should cost you a good 50-60 dollars, excluding shipping.
Piston Head: Get a Systema Duracon Piston Head.
You can replace your stock spring with an m110, or an m120. (going past is not recommended, only in a power upgrade, as you may need new gears and a piston to handle it.
Bushings: You will need to replace your nylon ones with metal ones if upgrading the spring.
Spring guide: You will need to replace your plastic spring guide to a metal one if it is not metal stock.
Cylinder: it is not mandatory to replace your cylinder, but if you want to, replace it with a Chrome Lucid Cylinder. They are very smooth.

What it will do: If installed correctly, a setup like this should give you really good accuracy/range. Your FPS should jump to a considerably higher amount.

Total Cost: The total can vary a lot with what barrel you choose, what kind of bucking you choose, and whether or not you get the extra upgrades.

Mods: My cousin (Keatdawg) found a mod that you can do to the Cylinder head. You can wrap teflon tape around it, and doing so will make the cylinder head a really tight fit. You will have to play with it to get it just right, but just put it around the head up to where it is flush with they cylinder, and you can melt it with a heat source (preferably a lighter) and then just keep putting layers on until the cylinder head is very tight.

Shimming: Whenever you open your mechbox, why not re-shim the gun correctly? It is a very time consuming process, but when done right, it is worth it. Shimming is done to create a correct gap between the gears teeth to prevent binding, rubbing, and to promote a smooth glide between the gears. Here is a guide.

FPS Upgrades:

Some people out there just HAVE to have that fps. Just like Tumor said: "FPS is like Horsepower. 285 is just not enough." Now, as you know, (well, maybe you don't) FPS is NOT everything. Newbies may think that a gun is good because it has 430 fps stock. I can tell you one thing: FPS is nothing if you do not have a good hop up setup. FPS only gets the bb to the target faster, considering a constant speed of wind and constant wind direction. So, if you are reading this Guide because you think that fps will make your gun shoot straighter, you may want to look above. Onto the Article.

First: There are a few different ways to achieve a higher FPS level. One, is to buy an F.T.K. (Full Tune up Kit) Another, is to buy separate Aftermarket parts. (Upgrade parts) Buying Aftermarket parts is more common, because you can mix-n-match what you want, to give you a custom setup the way you want with a variety of different brands. F.T.K.s often cost around $150-$200, and this for every part in your gearbox, excluding the Motor, Wiring, Trigger/Trigger Contacts.

Tightbore Barrels: These are outside of the budget. A good tightbore barrel can increase your Fps as much as 15 to 60 more, it depends on what brand, what kind of bbs you are using, and what seal you get with your hop up. None the less, they are a contributer to FPS.

Budget: $50


Spring: For only $50, you may want to stick with a spring that does not require you to upgrade your mechbox, along with other expensive parts. Systema is a good brand, PDI is a good brand, and so is Guarder. For this budget, you may want to stick in the M100-M120 range, If you have a CA, an M-130 is okay for a while. For PDI, an m100 will be around a 120%. An M100 for Guarder is an SP90.
Bushings: You will need to upgrade to metal bushings whenever upgrading your spring, so Area 1000 Metal Bushings will be fine for most brands outside of Echo-1 and Jing Gong. Stick with the Modify/Echo-1 Metal Bushings for the E-1 and JG V.2 Mechs. They just fit better. 6mm is the Standard size, you will want to check what mm of bushing your gearbox uses before purchase. Bearing-Bushings are usually not suitable for power upgrades.
Spring Guide: Just like the bushings, when ever putting in a stronger spring, you will want to put in a metal spring guide. an Area 1000 v.2 should do the trick. You can also use stock CA ones if you can find the in the classifieds.
Piston/Piston Head: They are not mandatory, but you can get a Guarder Blue Piston, and some type of piston head to go along with it if you would like.
Motor: Your stock motor should be able to pull up to an m120 fine.
Battery:I would suggest upgrading to some type of 9.6v battery, I would recommend a Nun-Chuck type for the M4 handguard.

What it will do: Depending on the spring you get, and how your compression is, you will get an improvement in FPS.

Total Cost: A Spring, Spring Guide, and Metal Bushings should only cost you around 30-40, depending where you get them. This is not including shipping. Obviously, if you get a piston/piston head, it will raise the price up. Your total is also depending on what brand and type of battery you get.

Budget: $100-$150


In this budget range, you can get more parts, or stronger springs, but with stronger springs comes the need for more reinforced parts. Here is what I would recommend:

Spring: A spring in this budget range can be anywhere from an M-100 to a M-130. Just as stated before, Systema, Guarder, PDI, and others are great spring makers.
Bushings: An upgraded spring requires you to upgrade to metal bushings, same bushing brand/size applies here as it does in the $50 dollar budget.
Spring Guide: Once again, it is wise to replace your spring guide to a metal one when upgrading the spring. In this budget, it would be wise to use a metal spring guide with ball bearings to release any unnecessary tension caused by the spring. Recommended for use of an M-120+.
Piston/Piston Head: Now is a necessary time to exchange your stock piston and piston head with a more durable, Aftermarket one. Recommended ones would be a Guarder Blue piston with a Systema Duracon Piston head. You can also use a G&P White Piston, but there have been reports of it failing under high pressures. Now, you may think: "I should get a metal piston head with a metal piston, it will be indestructible!" Wrong. When using a Metal Piston with a setup under 500 fps, the piston will destroy its self, along with your nice gears. The metal piston head will crack your gearbox if the gearbox is not a reinforced one. Stick with Polycarbonate Pistons and Piston Heads for this budget. (Polycarbonate=Durable Plastic)
Gears: It is not Necessary to replace your gears if using an M-120 or below spring. Classic Armys can take an M130 spring stock for a while. If you want to put in a little extra money to improve your gun's life, then get a nice set of Aftermarket gears. Systema makes some good ones, at good prices. Prometheus Double and Triple Torque Up are a bit much for an M120-130 spring.
Motor: Your AGEs motor should be able to pull up to an m130 spring, but if not, an EG1000 is a good alternative.
Battery: Recommended use of a 9.6v, 1100 mah+.

What it will do: Depending on what spring you get, It will put you at your FPS level. The Other upgrades are put in for Durability, and to run the spring that you choose.

Total Cost: Your price can range from $100-$200, depending on what you get exactly. I know it may be out of budget a little bit, but you need most of the parts mentioned to run a stronger spring reliably.

For you out there that have really no budget or limit to how much money you can spend on getting your M4 to shoot like a beast, here you go.

Budget: 200+


Well, to start, I would like to say that there is really no need for a 500 FPS+ fully auto M4A1. It would be out of range for most fields, and most people would not want to play with you.

Spring: M140-M170 PDI makes a 300% spring, which is the equivalent to an M170. Guarder's SP170 is around an M180.
Gearbox: You will need to get a reinforced version 2 mechbox for this, King Arm's 8mm Gearbox is a good one to use.
Bushings: They need to be metal, King Arms includes Bearing-Bushings with theirs.
Spring guide: It needs to be metal, and is probably a good idea to get a Ball-Bearing Metal Spring Guide of some sort.
Piston: Now, if you are using an M140 Spring, you may want to find one with half metal teeth. Over an M140, Go with a Deepfire Titanium Piston. Very durable for high power setups. If you can find a Supercore Piston, get it. They are the best pistons in the market, and will not fail you at all.
Piston Head: you may want to get a metal one on this setup, for an M140, a Systema Duracon may work for some time.
Gears: Systema Torque-Up, Prometheus Double or Triple Torque-up, What ever is suitable through your research.
Motor: "M140 and over, it's time for a Magnum"-Bronco This is true, if you want max power. If you get a Systema Magnum, you will want to replace the pinion gear on it with a Guarder Thermal Treated one. Other motors good for high power set-ups are Eagle's Hummer 1300, the Guarder Infinite Torque Up, and if you only have it, the EG-1000 will work.
Battery: You will need to get a 9.6v+ battery for this, over 1100 mah.
Wiring: If wanted, you can replace the wiring in your AEG to Dean's WetNoodle 16 or 18 gauge wiring. You will need a MOSFET for high power set-ups above an m140.

What it will do: Depends on what spring you use/compression, it will upgrade your fps.

Total Cost: anywhere from $200-$1000, depends how much you overhaul your AGE.

Shimming: Whenever you open your mechbox, why not re-shim the gun correctly? It is a very time consuming process, but when done right, it is worth it. Shimming is done to create a correct gap between the gears teeth to prevent binding, rubbing, and to promote a smooth glide between the gears. Here is a guide.

Rate of Fire Upgrades:

Rate of fire is essential. You need to put rounds down range as fast as you can, and that is where rate of fire comes in. ROF is determined with what gears you use, type of spring, type of motor, and your shim job along with your battery.

Budget: $50

Spring: for the ultimate rate of fire, I would not recommend going over an m110 for most motors, and an m120 for the Systema Turbo Motor. Remember, when you do a ROF set up, you do it for speed, not FPS.
Spring Guide: Metal spring guide, you should always get one when upgrading.
Piston: Well, there are "high speed" pistons out there, but they are not really "high speed". take for example the AE Highspeed piston. it is a full metal piston, and it is cut out to lessen the weight. why would you want an aluminum or metal piston for high speeds? At 25 rps, those metal teeth will strip your gears. Stick with polycarbonate on this one. Angel Pistons are good, but expensive. What people will do to increase their rate of fire, is they will Short Stroke the piston. This involves shaving the second to last tooth off the piston, along with 1/3 or 1/2 of the third to last tooth. (the metal tooth on your piston is the first tooth.) There are guides, search. If you do not want to spend money on a new piston, just short-stroke your stock one.
Battery: Do you have a stock 8.4v 1100 Mah battery? get a 9.6v!
Bushings: You will want to get metal bushings, your stock ones will melt with higher speeds.
Shimming: Shimming. it is the most important thing in your gearbox. As stated above, shimming will either make your gears run rocky, or smooth like glass. Shimming is very important in a high ROF set up, I suggest that you get it right.

What it will do: Well, if you got an M85 spring, (stock TM spring) and a correct shim job, you should get a nice fps setup. You battery will make the outcome of your setup, but with a fully charged 9.6v 1100 mah battery and a short-stroked piston, you should get a good 17-23 rps. These upgrades are not even hard to do, and very cost effective.

Total Cost: Bushings, Spring guide, Spring, Battery and Shims: 35-50, depending where you order.

Budget: $100-150

Spring: Don't go over an M110 for most motors, an m120 for the turbo.
Spring guide: Must be a metal spring guide
Piston/Piston Head: You can get a new piston if you want to, you can short-stroke it if you want to. Angel is a good brand. Systema Duracon piston heads are a good choice for a piston head.
Bushings: Metal Bushings, You can get Bearing Bushings for a high speed set up if you'd like.
Battery: Get a bigger battery, unless you already have a big one. Intellect makes good batteries.
Motor: A motor is essential to your gearbox. You may want to stay away from the Systema Turbo right now, as it will take a bit more money to get it running properly. the G&P M120 motor is a good choice, the Guarder High-Speed motor is also good. if not, a TM EG-1000 will do.
Gears: You may want to pick up a set of high speed gears, they will help.
Wiring: You may want to get a MOSFET, depending on the spring power you get along with the motor.

What it will do: Well, if you get gears and an EG-1000, with an m85 spring, I am estimating a good 25-35 rps. Your FPS will be considerably low, but you will get a good rate of fire.

Total Cost: Anywhere from $100-$150

Budget: $200+


So. You need that ultimate CQB AEG do you? well, How about these upgrades?

Spring: Nothing Above an m120
Spring guide: Make it metal
Gearbox: you may want to consider a reinforced one, it does not have to be all that fancy, a CA reinforced will do.
Bushings: 6mm, Ball-Bearing bushings will do fine, unless you want something else or have to get a different size to meet your gearbox specs.
Piston: Supercore or Angel Piston, you can get others. Do NOT Short stroke the Supercore piston, it will compromise its reliability.
Piston Head: Systema Duracon Head, or something else durable.
Gears: Phoenix High Speed gears, Prometheus High Speed gears, what ever suits your needs.
Battery: Upgrade! get a nice battery to your liking.
Wiring: You will need to get a MOSFET and some Deans Wet Noodle Wiring. You will also want Deans connectors.
Motor: Guarder High Speed, System Turbo, What ever motor suits your needs. NOTE: Do not get a motor for a high speed setup if it says that it is made for power. (I.E. Getting the magnum instead of the turbo.) It's not smart.

What it will do: You will have your ROF boosted based on how you install your parts, and what brands you buy. Assuming you will get a good shim job done, a Systema Turbo along with Prometheus High Speed Gears, a Short-Stroked Angel Piston, a Systema Duracon piston head, and a 10.8v 3000 mah battery will give you an a-crazy.gif Insane a-crazy.gif rate of fire. You will be pumping something like this out. (that is around 40 rps)

Total Cost: Insane ROF upgrades can cost you big. Around 500-1,500 big.

Shimming: Whenever you open your mechbox, why not re-shim the gun correctly? It is a very time consuming process, but when done right, it is worth it. Shimming is done to create a correct gap between the gears teeth to prevent binding, rubbing, and to promote a smooth glide between the gears. Here is a guide.


Durability Upgrades:

Here is a part of this guide to make your M4's Version 2 mechbox last longer. these are simple upgrades, and should not cost much, but will Increase the life of your mechbox and increase performance.

Budget: $50

Spring: If you want your gun to last longer, especially if you have a Jing-Gong, Get a weaker spring! Yes. you heard right. You see, the spring is what puts alot of wear on your piston, piston head, spring guide, gears, and mostly every part of your mechbox, aside from your motor. You may lose fps, but your gun will work for a long time.
Spring guide: Get a metal spring guide! spring guides rarely crack under a stock spring, but it has happened. When you get a metal guide, you are just insuring that your spring guide will not crack anytime soon.
Bushings: Get some metal bushings. Nylon bushings wear out after normal use, and if you upgrade your battery, you should be getting some.
Shimming: Re-shim and re-grease your gun properly! Alot of guns come from the factory with a crappy shim and grease job, it is suggested that you do it correctly.
And the cheapest alternative: Don't fix your gun if it is not broke. In other words, don't open up your mechbox if there is not a problem. Gearboxes usually last the longest when not opened. (Ex. Tokyo Marui)
Tune-Ups: Get your gun checked out regularly by a professional to inspect for damages, to re-grease, and clean your trigger contacts.

What it will do: Increase the life of your M4's Mechbox

Total Cost: Ranges from $0-$50, Depending.

Budget: $50-$150


Spring: Downgrade it if needed.
Spring guide: Get a metal one.
Bushings: Get metal bushings.
Shimming/Greasing: Re-shim and re-grease properly.
Piston/Piston Head: You can get a reinforced piston/piston head that will last longer then the stock one- check out the newer G&P White and Explosive head combo! works great!
Wiring: You can re-wire your gun with thicker wiring and/or ad a MOSFET. MOSFETs are not required, but they won't hurt.
Tune-Ups: Get your gun checked out regularly by a professional to inspect for damages, to re-grease, and clean your trigger contacts.
Mechbox: you can also get a reinforced mechbox, but it is not mandatory.

What it will do: Keep your gun running long and strong!

Total Cost: $50-$150 or more, depending.

Useful References


http://www.youtube.c...feature=related
http://www.youtube.c...feature=related



Thank You for taking your time to read over this guide, as well as many others aside it. This guide is up to date as of January 5th, 2008.

© Copyright 2010 Aimfor1337 - you must have my permission to use this at other places

Edited by Aimfor1337, 09 July 2010 - 11:56 PM.

  • 0
PM/IM Me for AEG work.

-M4/M16 Variant Specialist-


Did someone mention Total Electrical Overhaul?

QUOTE
Opsic66 (11:11:27 PM): I say give her a good f*cking round house to the abdomen...
Aimfor1337 (11:11:31 PM): LOL
Opsic66 (11:11:32 PM): but there's a reason I'm not a dad

Powertools? Yes... I've got em

#2 CMP

CMP
  • Gender:Male

Posted 12 January 2008 - 07:08 PM

G36 Series


The G36 series are divided into 2 types: the compact type (G36C) and the long types (G36K, G36, MG36 and SL8). Ill be dividing this part in the long and short versions.


Short Version (G36C)



Since it is a "C" gun (compact) it is designed for CQB combat, so Ill be focusing on ROF and FPS upgrades and some useful external add-ons. Remember that people don't like getting hit with 400fps guns in a 20 feet area, so take this in consideration when it comes down to upgrading your fps.

50$ Budget


FPS: With 50$, you want only to add a spring that your gearbox can handle without additional upgrades. A M120 (350fps aprox.) should be OK. I would also add new, metal bushings and re-shim the gun. If you put something stronger that M120, you will need other upgrades, and will end up spending more than 50$.

ROF: When upgrading for ROF, you must have in mind that you cant go too high on FPS, as a stronger spring means lower ROF. Sticking with a M110 or lower will allow your motor to turn the gears faster. With 50$ I would recommend getting either a polycarbonate piston, or lightweight aluminum piston and a 9.6V battery. You must shim your gearbox correctly for your gun to run smooth too. I suggest you lubricate you whole gun after working on ROF, since that will ensure that it will run smoother.

Range: In case you want to add more range to your G36C, the only thing I can recommend is a Tightbore barrel. The G36C is a little bit too short to expect long range shots. What some people do is put a longer inner barrel and cover it up with a suppressor, but I wont get into this now.

100-150$ Budget


FPS: With 100-150$ you can add some more power. I wouldnt recommend anything stronger than a M130, because going stronger than that might need a new motor (New motor=expensive) You can also buy a new Piston head and a new Hop-Up bucking to have a better compression. The Hop-Up bucking increases range too.

ROF: Take the upgrades specified in the 50$ budget and add a short-stroked piston and bearing bushings. You can also buy a new motor (Pay attention that the one you buy is "Turbo" and not "Magnum". Turbo is for speed, Magnum for power) It is said that Systema Motors are very good.

200$+:


FPS: With 200$+ you can do almost every upgrade there is for this gun. To go extreme, get a M150, buy a "Magnum" Motor, get a policarbonate piston, a new set of gears, a piston head and maybe a reinforced shell. That would turn put in crazy FPS ratings. Note that these FPS would be 450fps aprox. , and considering this is a CQB gun, it is not recommended to do this much. When you upgrade your FPS this much, things will eventually start breaking, so you must be experienced in repairing AEGs if you are going to have such FPS ratings. Again, having such FPS in a CQB gun is not recommended.

ROF: Again, with 200$ you can tweak the ROF a lot. With bearing bushings, a M110 spring, a 9.6v battery, high speed gears, a "Turbo" motor, a polycarbonate piston (Make sure its designed for high speeds) and a piston head, you cant go wrong.

Additional Add-ons

Since you are using your G36C for CQB, you might also want to get a Red-Dot scope or a Reflex Scope.
A foregrip is also recommended if you want extra stability.


G36 Long versions

The long versions are designed for long-ranged combat, so it is logical to expect more FPS and range out of them. ROF is not so important as FPS and range in long range guns, so I will not be talking about it now.


50$ Budget:

FPS: With 50$, its better to add a spring that your gearbox can handle without having to buy reinforced parts for it to handle it. A M120 (350fps aprox.) should be OK. I would also add new, metal bushings and re-shim the gun. If you put something stronger that M120, you will need other upgrades, and will end up spending more than 50$.

Range: With 50$ you can add a new Hop-Up bucking. I have heard Guarder makes decent, cheap buckings. The Hop-Up bucking installation is essential, because if installed wrong, the bucking can break, so please make sure how to install it properly before attempting to do it.

100-150$ Budget:


FPS:
With 100-150$ you can add some more "heavy duty" parts. I wouldnt recommend anything stronger than a M130, because going stronger than that might need a new motor (New motor=expensive) You can also buy a new Piston head and a new Hop-Up bucking to have a better compression. The Hop-Up bucking increases range too.


Range: With this budget you can add the bucking, a tightbore barrel and a new piston head. That should give you a nice range. For a tightbore barrel, I have heard that Dees Custom tightbores are extremely good. Once again, pay attention on how you install the hop-up bucking.


200+$ Budget


FPS:
With 200$+ you can do almost every upgrade there is for this gun. To go extreme, get a M150, buy a "Magnum" Motor, get a policarbonate piston, a new set of gears, a piston head and maybe a reinforced shell. That would turn put in crazy FPS ratings. When you upgrade your FPS this much, things will eventually start breaking, so you must be experienced in repairing AEGs if you are going to have such FPS ratings.

Range: With 200$+ you can get decent range out of this gun. You will need to get a new piston head, a new bucking, a tightbore, a new piston, and if you want to a new cylinder (For that extra compression zip). As the cylinder is not a must, you have 200$ to spend, so why not? With this setup you will be hitting persons from over 200 feet.

Other useful add-ons

You can get a magnifying scope (Nothing too big) a foregrip and if you want to add a tactical touch: This.

Useful References


http://www.youtube.c...feature=related
http://www.youtube.c...feature=related
You can take a look at Aimfor1337s guide to know which brands are good.

© Copyright 2008 CMP - you must have my permission to use this at other places

Edited by CMP, 04 March 2009 - 06:55 AM.

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Props to Aquafina for the sig

If I advance.........follow me. If I stop......urge me on. If I retreat........kill me. Kaibiles, Guatemalas Special Forces

#3 Aimfor1337

Aimfor1337
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Nebraska
  • Interests:Airsoft

Posted 12 January 2008 - 07:27 PM

No one post please, I don't mind comments, if you want to leave them, then contact us.

I am not closing the thread though, we have more work to do.
  • 0
PM/IM Me for AEG work.

-M4/M16 Variant Specialist-


Did someone mention Total Electrical Overhaul?

QUOTE
Opsic66 (11:11:27 PM): I say give her a good f*cking round house to the abdomen...
Aimfor1337 (11:11:31 PM): LOL
Opsic66 (11:11:32 PM): but there's a reason I'm not a dad

Powertools? Yes... I've got em

#4 Choffman10

Choffman10

Posted 12 January 2008 - 07:40 PM

Upgrades for Ak-47, and AK-74 Series





Ak's use the very strong Version 3 gearbox, and upgrades for V.3's are plentiful. There are springs, spring guides, bushings, and many, many more parts. The idea is that any part can be upgraded to make your gun perform better, or last longer. This guide will tell you the compatiable parts that your specific Aeg can take to raise its fps, make it more accurate, or change out your externals for better, or cooler looking externals.


$50 Budget




Accuracy and Range


The ultimate range and accuracy is mainly a combination of a tightbore barrel, and your hop-up system. BBs are also an important factor determining the effective range of a gun. 260 to 360 fps would benefit from a .25 gram bb, 360 to 400 fps would be best off with a .28, or a .3 gram bb. Airsoft Elite's, Ksc's, PHX's, and Tokyo Marui's are all good BBs. Compression also has a big part on your range, good compression = good range, and bad compression = less range.

Tightbore Barrels: There are many brands, and lengths, of tightbores to choose from. Madbull Black Python Barrels are a very good barrel for the price. The standard Ak-47 barrel is 455 millimeters long, so essentially you'd get a 455mm tightbore. But, if you want a significantly longer barrel, you may have to change your cylinder to compensate for the longer barrel.

Note: Generally the tighter a barrel is, the more accurate it will be. Ex. A 6.03 barrel will be more accurate than a 6.04. But, this isn't always the case.

Hop-up Bucking: A poor, damaged, or worn hop-up bucking can hinder accuracy. The bucking is the small piece of rubber that touches the bb, and the "sleeve" that goes around the barrel. The nub of the bucking is the small piece of rubber that touches the bb, to create backspin. There are a few different brands, and types of buckings. The best brand is Firefly, Firefly buckings use a nub with a small "V" cut in them to maximize accuracy, and consistency. If you can't find Firefly, go with a Prometheus. If you still can't get your hands on a Prometheus bucking either go with Guarder, or Systema.

O-Ring and Piston Head:
Replacing these household items can fix compression problems and/or give you better compression. Most Piston Heads take size #14, they can be found at Lowes, Home Depot, or your local hardware store.

Springs: A stronger spring doesn't always mean you'll get more range, just more fps. Tokyo Maruis come with a M90 spring which generally produce 270 fps. You can add a M100, M110, or M120 for more power, but they will also put more stress on the gun.

Metal bushings:
These are a helpful asset if you plan on upgrading your spring.

Suggestions: Fix your compression problems, get a V.2 Madbull Tightbore, and put in a Firefly Hop-up Bucking.

Total Cost: Madbull Tightbore, combined with a Firefly Bucking will cost around $40-$50 with fixed compression, and without shipping costs.


FPS



Power, power, power, that's what everyone seems to want. However, power comes at a costly price, reliability. Although some power upgrades are reliability friendly.

Springs: There are springs from M90 all the way up to M150, the latter being more powerful. PDI makes very nice springs, however they are in percentages. Ex: 170%. The lowest they go is 150%, and up to 240%, they are much more consistent than normal springs with fps varying only by 10 or less. A standard M90 spring will give you about 280 fps, M100 320 fps, M110 360 fps, M120 400 fps, etc.

Metal Bushings and Metal Spring Guide: If you upgrade your spring you'll want to get metal bushings, and a metal spring guide.

O-Ring and Piston Head: Once again you can find these for cheap at a hardware store. If you replace your current O-ring it will give you better compression, and good compression will give you more fps. Most airsoft guns use a size #14.

Suggestions: Put a stronger spring in your gun, and replace a plastic spring guide and bushings with metal ones. Then fix your compression to give you more fps.

Total Cost: A >M120 Spring, metal bushings and spring guide, plus fixing compression problems will cost around $45-50 excluding shipping.


$100-150 Budget




Accuracy and Range



With some deeper pockets you can get higher quality parts in your replica. You may also want to put a few more parts into your gun to improve this oh-so important characteristic of your gun.

Tightbore Barrel:
Some cash can get you the best of the best tightbores on the market. DB Customs (Or Dee's Customs) make some of the nicest barrels on the market. They are custom made, and 6.01mm in diameter, remember airsoft bbs are generally 5.97-5.99mm. PDI Precision also makes very nice tightbores, but are not custom made, and are quite a bit more pricey. (They are also 6.01mm)

Hop-up Bucking: Once again Firefly is the best, followed by Prometheus, Guarder, and Systema.

O-Ring and Piston Head: Pitch your current O-ring and replace it with a size #14 O-ring.

Springs: You can add a stronger spring, to gain a noticeable fps gain, but only a minimal range gain. An M120 will produce about 400 fps, and an M110 will give you about 360 fps.

Metal Bushings:
A need to durability if you replace your spring.

Metal Spring Guide:
If you replace your spring, you may want to change out your plastic spring guide for a metal one.

Piston: Not completely necessary, but can help if you want the best out of your gun. Duracon pistons are very good, made by Systema.

Suggestions:
Replace your stock inner barrel, add a Firefly bucking, and get a Systema Duracon piston.

Total Cost: Dee's Customs barrel, Systema Duracon piston, and Firefly hop-up bucking will run you about $100, excluding shipping.


Fps



Now you can get your gun to shoot powerful, and reliable at the same time.

Springs: You can get any power spring for under $100. That's not the problem though, making it shoot reliably is. I wouldn't go any higher than an M130, unless you could care less about reliability. Systema, Guarder, Prometheus, and Madbull all make good springs. But there isn't really and "bad" after-market springs.

Metal Bushings: These are a MUST if you plan on getting a M120, or higher.

Metal Spring Guide: Also a necessity if you get a M120, or more powerful spring.

O-Ring: Better compression equals more fps. Just go pick a size #14 at any hardware store.

Piston/Piston Head: There are a few different pistons, and it varies what type you should get. Guarder makes some nice pistons. Then just pick a new piston head to go along with your new piston. I like polycarbonate pistons over metal ones because a metal piston can wreck your gearbox.

Battery: You should get a nice 9.6 battery if your going to put an M120, or stronger spring in your gun. Intellect, and Elite are very good batteries.

Gears: Only replace your gears if your running a very strong spring, such as an M130 or higher. Go for torque gears, not high-speed. Systema and Guarder make good aftermarket gears.

Motor: Your stock motor should handle an M120, but if not go for a nice torque motor. EG1000's are a very good torguey motor. Systema's Magnum motor is also a powerful contender.


$200+ Budget




Accuracy and Range


With this much money, it won't be hard to get your Ak accurate.

Tightbore Barrel: Dee's and PDI 6.01 barrels are the top of the line.

Hop-up: Now you've got the cash to replace your entire hop-up unit. But what do you replace it with? Pro-Win makes a very nice metal hop-up that fits Aks. Plus you can replace your bucking with a Firefly or Prometheus bucking to gain even more accuracy.

Piston Head: Duracon's are the way to go, Systema of course.

Spring: Go for a M110, or M120 for some more power.

Metal Bushings: Replace the spring, replace nylon bushings.

Metal Spring Guide: Got a more powerful spring? Get a metal spring guide.

Cylinder: This one's a little iffy to me... But if you want to replace your cylinder, by all means do it.


Externals



Flash hiders
Guarder Ak Slant Brake-$25
Guarder AK SVD flash hider-$45
Guarder AKM flash hider-$25
Guarder Ak-74 flash hider-$25
King Arms Ak-47 flash hider-$20
King Arms Ak-74 flash hider-$25
King Arms Aks-74 flash hider-$50
TSD RPK style flash hider-$35
G&G Ak-47 flash hider-$30
G&G Ak-74 flash hider-$35
G&G Ak-74U flash hider-$40
Classic Army Ak-74 flash hider-$45
Classic Army AKM flash hider-$25
KM Aks-74 flash hider-$50
KM Aks-74U flash hider-$45
KM Aks-74U flash hider with silencing foam-$50
KM Ak Beta flash hider with silencing foam-$50

Grips and Stocks

Classic Army Tactical Ak-47 Pistol Grip-$25
Classic Army Tactical Ak-74 Pistol Grip-$25
Classic Army Railed Ak Handguard-$60
G&P Ak-74 Pistol Grip (Black, OD, and Tan)-$20
King Arms Railed Handguard and Tactical Grip (Black, and OD)-$45
King Arms Railed Handguard, Tactical Grip, and Stock (Black, OD, and Tan)-$70
King Arms Handguard and Stock Set for KA Dragonuv (Black, and Wood)-$120/$160
King Arms Ak-74M Tactical Handguard Grip (Black, and OD)-$40
King Arms Ak-74M Tactical Handguard, and Stock Set (Black, OD, and Tan)-$70
King Arms Ak-47 Handguard, and Pistol Grip (Black, and OD)-$35
King Arms Ak-47 Handguard, Pistol Grip, and Stock Set (Black, OD, and Tan)-$60
Proud Ak-47 Railed Handguard, and Large Pistol Grip (Black, and OD)-$70

MBKs (Metal Body Kit)
Classic Army Ak-47S Metal Frame-$75
Classic Army Metal Front Set for SLR105-$50
Classic Army Metal Receiver for Ak-47
DTP Ak-47 Metal Reciever-$50
DTP Ak-47s Metal Reciever-$50
G&G Magnesium Receiver Kit for Ak-47-$120
G&G Magnesium Receiver Kit for Ak-47s-$120
G&G AK Steel Receiver-$30
G&G Ak-47 Metal Body Set-$70
G&G Ak-47 Steel Top Cover-$20

Wood Kits
CAW Beta Ak Wood Stock Set-$120
CAW Ak-47 Wood Kit-$200
Classic Army Wooden Conversion Kit for Ak-47S-$70
Guarder Ak-47S Wood Kit-$100
Guarder Ak-47 Wood Kit-$150
King Arms Ak-47 Wood Kit-$70

RIS/RAS
Classic Army RAS Kit-$100
G&P Tm AK RAS Kit-$200
King Arms AK Gas Tube Optic Mount-$70
King Arms AK Modular Rail Forend-$120
King Arms AK RAS Full Set-$160
Actron Upper Receiver RIS for Marui AK-$115
G&G AK RIS-$100
Prime Ak-47 RIS-$170

© Copyright 2008 Choffman10 - you must have my permission to use this at other places

Edited by Aimfor1337, 15 January 2008 - 07:04 PM.

  • 0

#5 Aimfor1337

Aimfor1337
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Nebraska
  • Interests:Airsoft

Posted 12 January 2008 - 11:25 PM

Very good Choffman. Good to see this is coming together. I still have to get the M16 and mp5 guides up.
  • 0
PM/IM Me for AEG work.

-M4/M16 Variant Specialist-


Did someone mention Total Electrical Overhaul?

QUOTE
Opsic66 (11:11:27 PM): I say give her a good f*cking round house to the abdomen...
Aimfor1337 (11:11:31 PM): LOL
Opsic66 (11:11:32 PM): but there's a reason I'm not a dad

Powertools? Yes... I've got em

#6 AQUAFINA

AQUAFINA
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Oregon

Posted 20 January 2008 - 01:35 PM

-THE H&K MP5-



(MP5A5)



So YOU would like to get into the airsoft CQB (close quarters combat) scene eh? Well, one of the best and most versatile weapons for such combat would be without a doubt, the H&K MP5. I will be telling you about the airsoft versions of the MP5, how to choose the one that is right for you, and how to upgrade to its full potential. However let me first start with a history lesson of the MP5 so we can get acquainted with this close quarters beast.



-History of the MP5 (Taken from Wikipedia)-


The MP5 is a 9 mm submachine gun of German design, developed in the 1960s by a group of engineers from the West German arms manufacturer Heckler & Koch GmbH (HK). The company, motivated by the success of the G3 rifle developed a group of small arms consisting of four types of firearms (all based on the G3 design layout), where the first type was chambered in 7.62x51mm NATO, the second – using the 7.62x39mm M43 round, third – the intermediate 5.56x45mm NATO caliber and the fourth type – chambering the 9x19mm Parabellum pistol cartridge. The MP5 (short for Maschinenpistole 5) was created within the fourth group of firearms, initially known as the HK54.
Work on the MP5 began in 1964 and scarcely two years, later it was adopted by the German Federal Police, and army special forces. It is currently used by the armed forces and law enforcement units of over 40 different countries. The submachine guns are manufactured under license in several countries including: Greece (Hellenic Arms Industry), Iran (Defense Industries Organization), Mexico, Pakistan (Pakistan Ordnance Factories), Sudan (Military Industry Corporation), Turkey (MKE) and the United Kingdom (initially at Royal Ordnance, later diverted to Heckler & Koch Great Britain).
The Red Army Faction, a prominent German militant left-wing group, depicted a Heckler & Koch MP5 in their insignia.
There are also many variants of the MP5. The most common in airsoft are the MP5A4/A5 and the MP5SD5/6.
Well, now that you know you want an MP5, you must first decide what company you wish to buy from. This is a popular model, and as with any popular gun there will be many manufacturers.


-Manufacturers of airsoft MP5s-


CA (Classic Army) - Hong Kong

Tokyo Marui – Manufactured in China, assembled in Japan

ICS (I Chih Shivan) / AE (Airsoft Elite, which are upgraded ICS guns) – Taiwan

JG (Jing Gong, which translates to Golden Bow, or GB)/ Echo 1 - China

G&G (Guay&Guay) – Taiwan

-About each Manufacturer-


Classic Army

Classic Army MP5s are great full metal submachine guns. They make a very large variety of MP5 variants. These guns are metal, but are not made out of high quality steel or aluminum; however this is much better than a plastic body. Classic Army guns that use the version two gearboxes are reinforced in the front which is where V2 gearboxes are prone to failure. The come with good gears and motor and are well put together guns. Their average FPS is about 330 and it has a good ROF, has accuracy for about 130-140 feet; Comes with high capacity metal magazines, and no battery or charger.
Some problems that they may have are bad compression which will affect your FPS, bad hop-up bucking (or rubber) which will effect how your gun will feed, and faulty wiring. However all in all these guns make great choices for a CQB or general airsoft guns. They are recommend as reliable arms, but as of lately (written in January 2008) their quality control has been a little sloppy, so you may want to be prepared to work on your gearbox upon arrival.

Tokyo Marui

Ah, Tokyo Marui, the inventors of the AEG. These guns are made of sturdy ABS plastic; they feel good in your hands and will serve you well for a long time. If longevity is what you want, then look no farther than the Tokyo Marui MP5 line. Though these guns only shoot 260-300 fps (varies by model) the stock TM hop-up will propel your bb a nice long way to about 130-140 feet. The internals may not be as structural strong as some of the other manufacturers but, this gun shoots a lot softer, and will last. They come with some metal parts and a metal 68 round standard capacity magazine. They do not come with a battery or charger.
There is a very rare chance of there being any out of the box issues with a TM, so that should not be a worry, also these things will last you forever if kept stock, they are the ultimate beginner guns, and because of the slow velocity, it makes a great CQB weapon.


ICS/AE

ICS/AE MP5 are some of the most popular on the market and there are some very good reasons why. Full metal and made of nice, light, sturdy, aluminum, these are all-around very nice guns. They shoot around 350 fps, and have a good ROF thanks to ICS’s strong motor. They get range to about 150 feet. The internals are up to par with the other major brands and these are highly recommended guns. They come with a 250 round metal hi-capacity magazines. They come with no battery or charger.
Lemon rate on these is low, and so do not be afraid to order your self one, they make nasty little CQB guns. It is recommended you lower the FPS a little so that you can get into all CQB fields, and to raise your ROF.

JG

JG guns have jumped into the market with a ferocious look on their face. These lo-cost Chinese clones are affordable on any budget and these guns mean business. Made of ABS plastic (excluding the full metal RAS variants) with a few metal parts these MP5s feel solid. The internals are TM compatible, so upgrading is possible. They shoot around 350-380 fps, so it is a little hot for CQB, so you would want to downgrade that spring to an M100 or SP90; and because of the stiff spring the ROF suffers. They don’t have as sturdy internals compared to the other big names, and it is recommended you clean, lube, and shim the gearbox properly upon arrival. These guns come with everything to start, including a battery and charger, and a metal Hi-Cap magazine.
The lemon rate on these is higher than the others, so take that into consideration when ordering. Overall, this is a solid little gun for CQB or any other combat; recommended to the beginner or an experienced airsofter looking for a cheap project gun. By far the extra value menu item when it comes to airsoft

G&G

G&G guns used to be sub-par, the the V4 guns came storming into the market like an inferno, offering to options, full metal, and plastica versions, G&G is opening up to the entire airsoft market with top-notch internals and construction, and affordability behind them. The internals are the same, so let me focus on the internals of these replicas. Shooting 350 fps with a stock Marui spring these guns are made to last. They are tuned up to shoot hard and with accuracy, and a good ROF is given too, pair that with the stock TBB (tight bore barrel) and you have a match made in airsoft heaven. Coming with a metal Hi-Capacity magazine, no battery or charger, these are simply superb guns.
Though quality has plagued this company in the past, there is no reason not to invest in one now. By all means, these are awesome. CQB enemies beware!


So… you want that gun upgraded?


Well, for CQB which is what the MP5 was intended for, you will want speed, and lots of it!
Rate of fire is essential. You need to put rounds down range as fast as you can, and that is where rate of fire comes in. ROF is determined with what gears you use, type of spring, type of motor, and your shim job along with your battery.

Budget: $50


Spring: for the ultimate rate of fire, I would not recommend going over an m110 for most motors, and an m120 for the Systema Turbo Motor. Remember, when you do a ROF set up, you do it for speed, not FPS.
Spring Guide: Metal spring guide, you should always get one when upgrading.
Piston: Well, there are "high speed" pistons out there, but they are not really "high speed". Take for example the AE Highspeed piston. it is a full metal piston, and it is cut out to lessen the weight. why would you want an aluminum or metal piston for high speeds? At 25 rps, those metal teeth will strip your gears. Stick with polycarbonate on this one. Angel Pistons are good, but expensive. What people will do to increase their rate of fire, is they will Short Stroke the piston. This involves shaving the second to last tooth off the piston, along with 1/3 or 1/2 of the third to last tooth. (the metal tooth on your piston is the first tooth.) There are guides, search; if you do not want to spend money on a new piston, just short-stroke your stock one.
Battery: Do you have a stock 8.4v 1100 Mah battery? Get a 9.6v!
Bushings: You will want to get metal bushings; your stock ones will melt with higher speeds.
Shimming: Shimming. It is the most important thing in your gearbox. As stated above, shimming will either make your gears run rocky, or smooth like glass. Shimming is very important in a high ROF set up; I suggest that you get it right.

What it will do: Well, if you got an M85 spring, (stock TM spring) and a correct shim job, you should get a nice fps setup. You battery will make the outcome of your setup, but with a fully charged 9.6v 1100 mah battery and a short-stroked piston, you should get a good 17-23 rps. These upgrades are not even hard to do, and very cost effective.

Total Cost: Bushings, spring guide, spring, Battery and Shims: 35-50, depending where you order.

Budget: $100-150

Spring: Don't go over an M110 for most motors, an m120 for the turbo.
Spring guide: Must be a metal spring guide
Piston/Piston Head: You can get a new piston if you want to; you can short-stroke it if you want to. Angel is a good brand. Systema Duracon piston heads are a good choice for a piston head.
Bushings: Metal Bushings, You can get Bearing Bushings for a high speed set up if you'd like.
Battery: Get a bigger battery, unless you already have a big one. Intellect makes good batteries.
Motor: A motor is essential to your gearbox. You may want to stay away from the Systema Turbo right now, as it will take a bit more money to get it running properly. the G&P M120 motor is a good choice, the Guarder High-Speed motor is also good. if not, a TM EG-1000 will do.
Gears: You may want to pick up a set of high speed gears, they will help.
Wiring: You may want to get a MOSFET, depending on the spring power you get along with the motor.

What it will do: Well, if you get gears and an EG-1000, with an m85 spring, I am estimating a good 25-35 rps. Your FPS will be considerably low, but you will get a good rate of fire.

Total Cost: Anywhere from $100-$150

Budget: $200+


So. You need that ultimate cqb AEG do you? well, How about these upgrades?

Spring: Nothing Above an m120
Spring guide: Make it metal
Gearbox: you may want to consider a reinforced one, it does not have to be all that fancy, a CA reinforced will do.
Bushings: 6mm, Ball-Bearing bushings will do fine, unless you want something else or have to get a different size to meet your gearbox specs.
Piston: Supercore or Angel Piston, you can get others. Do NOT Short stroke the Supercore piston, it will compromise its reliability.
Piston Head: Systema Duracon Head, or something else durable.
Gears: Phoenix High Speed gears, Prometheus High Speed gears, what ever suits your needs.
Battery: Upgrade! get a nice battery to your liking.
Wiring: You will need to get a MOSFET and some Deans Wet Noodle Wiring. You will also want Deans connectors.
Motor: Guarder High Speed, System Turbo, What ever motor suits your needs. NOTE: Do not get a motor for a high speed setup if it says that it is made for power. (I.E. Getting the magnum instead of the turbo.) It's not smart.

What it will do: You will have your ROF boosted based on how you install your parts, and what brands you buy. Assuming you will get a good shim job done, a Systema Turbo along with Prometheus High Speed Gears, a Short-Stroked Angel Piston, a Systema Duracon piston head, and a 10.8v 3000 mah battery will give you an insane rate of fire. You will be pumping something like this out.

Total Cost: Insane ROF upgrades can cost you big; around $500-$1,500 big.

-Aqua

DO NOT RIP WITHOUT PERMISSION FROM ME

Edited by CMP, 21 January 2008 - 06:55 PM.

  • 0

#7 Aimfor1337

Aimfor1337
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Nebraska
  • Interests:Airsoft

Posted 22 January 2008 - 11:43 PM

Yea, I'm working on it. I will really try to have them done by the 28th. like all of the guides up, I have just gotten swamped with more work. I started the M16 one, and I will continue it if I don't have to work or do homework tomorrow, I am also messing with my m4, it is having trig. problems.

SuperHobo, the reason why I did not list the SwissCheese option, is because it really does not less the weight that much. It also really compromises the structure of the piston when doing so. I don't want to list something and then someone do it, then I get blamed for them getting a snapped piston.

As for the guy about the AUG: You can ask Hydralover about it, anything, he knows that gun from the muzzle to the stock plate and every part in between.

I will be getting these up, with as much information I can give. Most of the other models aside from what I am experienced with will be a short, but informative guide. (p90, PSG-1, FA-MAS, FN2000, SCAR, others.)

M16 (Long, full depth.)
SR-25 (DMR Rifle)
Aug
P90
G3, SAS, GS-SG1,
M14
SCAR
FN-2000
FA-MAS
  • 0
PM/IM Me for AEG work.

-M4/M16 Variant Specialist-


Did someone mention Total Electrical Overhaul?

QUOTE
Opsic66 (11:11:27 PM): I say give her a good f*cking round house to the abdomen...
Aimfor1337 (11:11:31 PM): LOL
Opsic66 (11:11:32 PM): but there's a reason I'm not a dad

Powertools? Yes... I've got em

#8 Aimfor1337

Aimfor1337
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Nebraska
  • Interests:Airsoft

Posted 29 January 2008 - 08:57 PM

Here is another upgrade guide, it has many models compiled into it. Most of these models are the "less" common models, but many people still own and use them.
Note: Tokyo Marui makes their guns in a certain way that they will last if untouched. if you are inexperienced or don't even know how to take down your airsoft gun, I would not suggest that you upgrade your airsoft gun without professional help.
What is included:
P-90.
G3/SAS/G3-SG1.
M-14.
SCAR.
FN-2000.
FA-MAS.

The P-90



The P-90 is a gun made for CQB and close attacks. Therefore, you may want to focus on the rate of fire. Not saying that they cannot be used in woodland or even as a sniper rifle (hope not), but they are designed for CQB. It is a very short and very maneuverable weapon. Now. Onto the upgrade guide.

Accuracy Upgrades:

The only thing that you can really do for accuracy is get a tight bore barrel, and the best hop up bucking available. This would also depend on your ability to set your hop up properly.

Budget: $50

-Barrel: You can get a tightbore barrel for your P90, it may not help much because of the short barrel length. It will improve your accuracy though. Good brands would be Prometheus or Dee's Customs. Firefly will do but it is not recommended.
-Hop Up Bucking: TM makes very good AEG hop up bucking, but if you need that extra push, then you can get prometheus or firefly hop up bucking. Make sure to get the correct type. (hard-400+ for Firefly, 420+ for Promy. soft-399- for Firefly, 419- for Promy.)

What it will do: Improve your P-90's accuracy.
Cost: Anywhere from $40-$55.

Budget: $100+

-Barrel: Get a Tightbore, A PDI, Prometheus, Dee's Custom, or Systema. They are all good. There are other great brands too.
-Hop Up Bucking: Firefly Soft or Hard (soft-399-,hard-400+) Prometheus Soft or Hard, Big Out Hop Up Nub (H-nub), There are other great brands.

What it will do: Improve your P-90's accuracy.
Cost: Anywhere from $80-$150

FPS Upgrades:


P-90's generally are not built for FPS, they are more made for CQB, which requires more ROF then FPS.

Budget: $50

-Bushings: Make 'em metal, get specific ones for the V.6 Gearbox.
-Spring: I would only go up to an m120 for this budget.
-Spring Guide: Make it metal
-Compression: Sometimes all you need is a new o-ring or tighter seal on your cylinder head!

What it will do: Increase your P90's FPS
Cost: $30-$40

Budget: $100+

-Bushings: Make 'em metal, get specific ones for the V.6 Gearbox.
-Spring: I would only go up to an m130. People have used M140's, but there are virtually no replacement gearboxes, unless you get one used.
-Spring Guide: Make it metal
-Compression: Sometimes all you need is a new o-ring or tighter seal on your cylinder head!
-Piston head: the Systema Duracon Piston Head is good.
-Piston: Guarder Blue/G&P White/Prometheus Hard.

What it will do: Increase your P90's FPS
Cost: $100-$200

Rate Of Fire Upgrades:


Budget: $100-$400

-Bushings: Make 'em metal, get specific ones for the V.6 Gearbox.
-Spring: I would only go up to an m110.
-Spring Guide: Make it metal
-Piston head: the Systema Duracon Piston Head is great.
-Piston: Guarder Blue/G&P White/Prometheus Hard
-Motor: Guarder Infinite Revolution Long Motor, or a Systema Turbo Long. They are both great.
-Battery: Sometimes all you need is a better battery!
-Shimming: Shimming is a big part in Rate of Fire upgrades, get it done right.
-Gears: You can Get a high speed gear set if you would like.
-Mosfet: If you are going for extreme rof, then I would suggest a MOSFET with Active Breaking.

What it will do: Depending on your upgrading abilities, you can increase your rate of fire greatly. It would be wise to get a Laylax P90 Box Mag.
Cost: $100-$400+

The G3/G3-SG1/G3SAS


Now, I would make an educated Guess that the G3/G3-SG1 would be used for Woodland/Longer Ranges, while the G3-SAS used for CQB/Sniper Back-up.

The G3/G3-SG1


Since you are going for more of a long range gun, and probably not much of a rate of fire weapon, although it is still a possibility, I will go into more detail with the FPS/Range/Accuracy Upgrades.

Accuracy Upgrades:

As stated many times in the past, accuracy lies within a good seal of compression, a good barrel, and good hop up/hop up bucking.

Budget: $50.00

50 clams is not going to get you much for your gun's improvement, especially if you are trying to make it into a long range sniper weapon, which it is a good platform for, just not with a budget of $50. However, you can still get a moderate improvement in accuracy.
-Hop up bucking: I would suggest Firefly or Prometheus, other buckings such as Guarder and Systema work well too.
-Barrel: You can get a tightbore barrel, but a lot will not be in the 50.00 range with the bucking. If you absolutely need a tightbore, Madbull will cut it for the time being. Systema, and CA barrels can also work. I would recommend Systema before a Madbull.

Total cost: About 48.00 with a systema barrel and Firefly bucking.

What it will do: if you install the two correctly, you should see a Moderate increase in accuracy/range. it may even up your fps about 15-25.

Budget: $100.00-$150.00

Okay, now we are in business. you can upgrade quite a bit with this, get a good tighbore, and a good hop up bucking.
-Hop up bucking: As suggested before, Firefly with an H-nub would be your best choice, but then prometheus and guarder are great too. For a cheaper alternative, you can get the Madbull fishbone bucking with the X-nub (H-nub), throw the bucking away, and get Prometheus or Guarder bucking. the Madbull sleeve is not the best.
-Barrel: Well, if you are going for the best accuracy on this one, I would recommend going with top brands, such as DB Custom, PDI, or Prometheus. they can get expensive, but are well worth it.

Total Cost: Minimum of about 60.00 to about 100.00 for the barrels, depending the brand, and the bucking being about 20.00.

What it will do: If installed correctly, you should see an extreme increase in range/accuracy, and an fps ad on of about 45-60.

This pretty much does it for the Accuracy upgrades, this all ties into compression. No compression=no accuracy. So, the next time you think that you really need a tightbore barrel, even if you want it, you may not need it. Check your o-ring and hop up seal. On to FPS upgrades.

FPS Upgrades:
Now, the G3/G3SG-1 is a great platform for building up those high fps levels. It does have the v.2 mechbox, but does not mean you can't up the fps to 500, it just means you are going to be hauling *censored* at your job to pay for the reinforcement parts.

Budget: $50.00

-Spring guide: if you do not have a Classic Army, then get a metal spring guide.
-Bushings: once again, if you do not have a Classic Army G3/G3sg-1, then get metal bushings.
-Spring: stick with up to an m120 on this budget. If you have a CA, you are good up to an m130 stock for a while.
-Piston: the stock one is fine for up to an m120 on most brands. (including JG)

Total Cost: Around $45.00

What it will do: depending what spring you get, and if you have a good seal with your o-ring on your piston head and o-ring on your cylinder and cylinder head, then you should see an fps increase up to 430 fps, (total shooting velocity with an m120, and good compression.)

Budget: $100.00-$150.00

With this budget we can get a bit more parts, and stronger springs.
-Spring guide: if you do not have a Classic Army, then get a metal spring guide.
-Bushings: once again, if you do not have a Classic Army G3/G3sg-1, then get metal bushings.
-Spring: stick with up to an m140 on this budget. If you have a CA, you are good up to an m130 stock for a while.
-Piston: Choosing a piston is decided on what you like. some people have mixed thoughts/experiences with G&P White, and Guarder Blue pistons. I would not recommend Systema Red ones, however I would say a Prometheus Hard, or Guarder Grey/Blue will work. It is really just a personal preference.
-Piston head: a Systema Duracon head will cut it
-Gears: you should not need new gears, unless you have cheap utg gears, which you should not. CA and TM gears should be able to handle the pressures for a while. After your first gear looses a tooth, get a set of Systemas, or Promy Torque ups.
Motor: An EG1000 can pull a m140 no problem, a CA torque should be able to no problem. I am not sure on the JG motor. You may want to get a 30.00 EG1000 if you have a JG.

Total cost: depending where you get your parts, and what you get, you should not have to spend over $150.00 on a decent set up.

What it will do: If you've installed the parts correctly, an M140 with good compression can sit you at 460-480 FPS.

Budget: $200.00+

Well, in this case, you have no limit to the cash in your piggy bank. for some reason, 100 dollar bills just keep showing up in there. yay! overhaul time! PS: you may want to get your older brother or dad to help you out on this one. (or some buff body builder)
-Spring guide: Since you are most likely going for a huge set up, I would suggest getting a spring guide with ball-bearings to relive unnecessary tension. Prometheus Ball-Bearing Spring guides are great.
-Bushings: You will want to make them metal.
-Gearbox: it is suggested that you get a 7mm or 8mm gearbox. Not that they are a huge benefit to your mech not breaking down, but they will help even out the pressures. Keep in mind, as pointed out by Tumor, that even though the mechbox is reinforced, such as a KA 8mm bearing gearbox, they can still crack in the same places as the normal v.2, 6mm gearbox.
-Piston: This is a hard decision with high tensions such as the ones you may choose for this set up, The best would be a Prometheus Hard or Supercore piston.
Piston Head: Systema Duracon with ball bearings will work, but there are other brands such as Prometheus and such.
Spring: M150, Guarder SP160 (the SP160 is the equivalent to an m170.)
Gears: Prometheus Double or Triple Torque Ups on this one.
Motor: An EG1000 can pull up to an M180, but I would still get a Systema Magnum if another Benji pops up in your piggy bank.
Tappet Plate: you are going to need to replace this sooner or later, so why not now? get a Deepfire tappet, or a King Arms one. they are both great. Deepfire before KA.
Mosfet Trigger System: You are going to need a mosfet with this type of setup. Ask someone on the forums, or go to Extremefire.com.

Total Cost: Set-ups like the one above, depending where you get the parts and what brands you get, can cost you up to 1G.

What it will do: you should see a drastic increase in fps, with most of the setup, you will be able to pump out 550-570 fps with the SP160 spring. the rest of the parts are just used to pull that spring without breaking every 10 rounds. a-grin.gif

Shimming: You should always do a correct shim job when inside of your mechbox. Here is a good guide.

Rate of Fire Upgrades:
There are drum mags for the G3, so I guess it can be used for high rate of fire. I personally would not go over 1200 rpm (20 rps) with this gun, but if you are trigger happy, then why not get it going over 1600 rpm? (26 rps) I'm going to start the budget at $100.00-$150.00, because if you are going for a high rof set-up, it's not going to be cheap.

Budget: $100.00-$150.00

-Spring guide: Make it metal
-Bushings: Make 'em metal
-Spring: Anywhere from an M85-M110. (M85 is a stock TM spring)
-Gears: you can get high speed gears, but standard ratios work well.
-Piston: There is NO such thing as a "high-speed" piston. that is Horse *censored*. You can go with a G&P White, or a Guarder Blue/Grey, what ever you like. A supercore is great for it. If you do get a different piston, make sure to short-stroke it by removing the second to last tooth, and part of the third one. there are guides on how to do it.
-Swiss-Cheesing: You can do it, I will not make a difference in ROF, but it will help the piston return faster and prevent pre-mature engagement with the sector gear. (where the gear nearest to the piston grabs it before it has re-set.) Swiss-Cheesing is drilling holes along your piston. NOTE: Swiss-Cheesing will compromise your piston's structure, so don't use over an m110 when doing this.
-Piston head: Systema Duracon
-Mosfet: You will need a mosfet to save your trigger contacts when doing high speed set-ups.
-Motor: for this budget, a G&P120, or Guarder High Revolution motor.
-Battery: If you are looking for more ROF, a better and bigger battery is the way to go for cheaper. Try upping from a 8.4 1100 mah to a 9.6 2700 or 3000 mah. notice the difference? Think this is an increase? try a 7.4 or 11v lipo. There's an increase!

Total Cost: Depending what you get out of the list above, it can cost you over $150.00.

What it will do: Depends what brands/parts you get. Your battery will also play a key role in your set up. You can just reinforce vital parts such as gears, piston, and get a mosfet with a lipo, it will put out good results.

Budget: $200+

Now you can get into it.
-Spring guide: Make it metal
-Bushings: Bearing-Bushings are great for setups like these.
-Spring: Anywhere from an M85-M110. (M85 is a stock TM spring)
-Gears: Prometheus High Speeds are great for this budget.
-Piston: There is NO such thing as a "high-speed" piston. that is Horse *censored*. You can go with a G&P White, or a Guarder Blue/Grey, what ever you like. A supercore is great for it. If you do get a different piston, make sure to short-stroke it by removing the second to last tooth, and part of the third one. there are guides on how to do it.
-Swiss-Cheesing: You can do it, I will not make a difference in ROF, but it will help the piston return faster and prevent pre-mature engagement with the sector gear. (where the gear nearest to the piston grabs it before it has re-set.) Swiss-Cheesing is drilling holes along your piston. NOTE: Swiss-Cheesing will compromise your piston's structure, so don't use over an m110 when doing this.
-Piston head: Systema Duracon, Prometheus, etc.
-Mosfet: You will need a mosfet to save your trigger contacts when doing high speed set-ups.
-Motor: Make it a Systema Turbo!
-Battery: Go for an 11 volt lipo. Great Rate of fire.

Total Cost: Alot. any where from 200-1G

What it will do: A Turbo, high speed gears, a good shim job, an m85 or M90 spring, and a Lipo battery will give you a nice 40-50 rps. You must remember, it is mandatory that you get the shimming done correctly, as well as short stroking your piston and installing a MOSFET. Bad shimming will result in torn up gears/ruined piston. Not short-stroking will result in a ruined piston. No MOSFET will result in your contact assembly and wiring melting. literally. the Trigger contacts can melt with a Lipo.

The G3SAS


As stated before, I would guess that this gun is used primarily in CQB, or as a sniper back-up weapon. Through these statements, I will focus mainly on rate of fire.

Accuracy Upgrades:

Budget: $50.00

$50.00 is really all you need to get your gun shooting accurately, the barrel is so small, it does not cost that much.
-Hop up bucking: Make it Firefly or Prometheus, you can get an H-nub with them.
-Barrel: A DBCustom barrel will do the trick.

Total Cost: Should not be over $50.00.

What it will do: Increase your back-up's or primaries range a bit, and accuracy.

FPS Upgrades:
I am not going to go into much detail here, it is basically the same as the G3's.

Budget: $50.00

-Spring Guide: Make it metal
-Bushings: Make 'em metal
-Spring: M120 for this budget

Total Cost: About $38.00.

What it will do: increase your G3SAS's FPS, up to 380-420 max shooting velocity.

Budget: $100+

-Spring Guide: Make it metal with ball-bearings.
-Bushings: Make 'em metal
-Spring: up to an m150. you should not need to do this, but what ever floats your boat.
-Gears: Promy Double or Triple Torque-Up.
-Motor: Systema Magnum
-Mosfet: Get one
-Battery: this may be a problem... you will need a bigger battery, but there is not really much room for a bigger one. Stick Lipo?
-Piston: Get a good strong piston.
-Piston Head: Systema Duracon...etc

Total Cost: Alot, I don't see why you would want to upgrade a CQB gun this much, but if you are, then good luck with getting into fields.

What it will do: Probably tear it's self apart, but you could get a good FPS increase.

Rate of Fire Upgrades:
Here is where I will put most of the information, because this gun is small, and meant for higher rate of fire set ups. after all, the gun is only 490mm long. (the gun, not the barrel.)

Budget: $50.00-$100.00

-Bushings: Make 'em metal.
-Spring guide: Make it metal
-Spring: the stock TM spring is good.
-Battery: Get a bigger battery. Intellect 9.6 or 10 volts are great.

Total Cost: depends what kind of battery you get. Some are cheap, some are expensive.

What it will do: increase the guns rate of fire. a good shim job and a 10 volt battery will put out a good 17-20 rps.

Budget: $100-$300

-Bushings: Ball-Bearing Bushings
-Spring guide: Make it metal
-Spring: the stock TM spring is good.
-Battery: Get a bigger battery. Intellect 9.6 or 10 volts are great.
-Piston: make sure to short stroke it, you can get a different piston, look at the other high speed guides for suggestions.
-Piston head: Systema Duracon
-Gears: Standard ratio are good.
-Motor: a Guarder High Revolution will work.
-MOSFET: get one

Total cost: $100.00-$250.00

What it will do: With the suggested above and a good shim job, a good fully charged battery, you can achieve around 24-27 rps.

Budget: $300+

-Bushings: Ball-Bearing Bushings
-Spring guide: Make it metal
-Spring: the stock TM spring is good.
-Battery: Get a bigger battery. Intellect 9.6 or 10 volts are great. if you want more, get a 7.4, or 11 volt Lipo.
-Piston: make sure to short stroke it, you can get a different piston, look at the other high speed guides for suggestions.
-Piston head: Systema Duracon, or a Prometheus Head.
-Gears: Prometheus High Speed are great for this budget.
-Motor: Go for a Systema Turbo!
-MOSFET: get one

Total Cost: $300.00-$700.00 Depending what you buy, and where from.

What it will do: With the suggested above, you can achieve a good 30-40 rps. It will vary depending on how the work is done. Mainly shimming.

Shimming: while you are in your Mechbox, why not shim it correctly? A Correctly shimmed gearbox can mean all the better for you and your airsoft gun. Please take the time to do it right the first time, before you waste $150 in parts. thankyou. Here are a few guides:
http://www.geocities...een/aegshim.htm
http://www.airsoftpa...pic.php?t=18269

The M14


Under assumption that the M14 would be used mainly as a DMR/Sharpshooter Role, I will tune into Accuracy/Range, and FPS a little more. There are not very many Rate of fire upgrades for the M14 anyways. In this guide, since the M14 is limited to it's upgrades because of the V.7 Gearbox, I will not list the upgrades by budget, but more by what you can use them for.

Accuracy/Range Upgrades:
Your range will depend on the hop up of your M14. The TM M14 hop up is one of the best in the TM line, so upgrading your bucking from a TM stock bucking to a different brand is not recommended unless it is mandatory. (Mandatory as in your sleeve ripped, the nub split or broken.) Your accuracy is also depending on your hop ups performance. Note: In explaining this, I was referring to the TM model. Other buckings, such as the CYMA, UTG, or AGM M14 bucking can be replaced. (It is recommended with MPEG models.)

Bucking: You can get a firefly or prometheus bucking, make sure to get hard or soft according to the fps of your m14. There is another thing with TM, as well as other brands of m14, the hop up bucking is shorter then the usual AEG hop up packing. You will need to cut the sleeve to size. Guarder bucking is also another option, along with Systema. If you are looking for that extra push, get an H-hop up nub.
Tight Bore Barrel: If you do have a budget, then I would wait and save, to skip the Madbull Barrel. If you are going for a very accurate m14, then stick with top brands, such as PDI, DB Customs, Prometheus, and others. JBU/Systema will work, but when you get the extra money, replace it with a top brand.

Cost: Getting your m14 to pin-point accuracy is not cheap.

What it will do: you should see a very dramatic accuracy increase, along with range and fps increase. Remember: this all depends on how you install your parts.


FPS Upgrades:
This section is where you will do most of your upgrading. The V.7 gearbox is very strong, and is suitible for high fps set-ups. As for upgrades, you can really only get a few brands of parts, The parts are not all interchangeable with the V.2/V.3 Mechbox. There are plenty of parts to choose from for upgrading though.

What you can replace, or reinforce in your M14's Mechbox:
Piston: The piston is v.2/v.3 compatible.
Piston Head: v.2/v.3 compatible.
Tappet Plate: v.7 only, Guarder makes them, but the Stock TM one is great
Cut-Off Lever: It is weak in M14's, replace it with a Guarder one.
Cylinder Head: v.7 only, there are kits that include the cylinder, cylinder head, piston, and piston head.
Spring Guide: v.7 only, G&P makes a good one with ball-bearings
Springs: v.2/v.3 compatible, I would not go over an m140 with this gearbox, but that is up to you. G&P makes a 7mm bearing gearbox if you need a replacement.
Gears: v.7 only, many companies make them. Guarder makes them, Prometheus makes them too. If you have the G&P gearbox, you can use any set of gears. Such as the v.2/v.3 gears. (same thing)
Piston Head: v.2/v.3 compatible.
Air nozzles: v.7 only, it is made by a lot of companies.
Motor: Short Type compatible, you can use a Systema Magnum if you want to.
Bushings: The M14 takes standard 6mm bushings.
It would be wise to get a MOSFET with A/B if you are going for a high power set up, because replacement contact boxes for the m14 are somewhat hard to come by. You can special order them, but to my knowledge they are not just lying around.

Cost: Upgrading Your M14 to shoot DMR Style will cost you a good grand for a fully upgraded m14. About 1.2 if you are using the TM version.

What it will do: You can increase your fps a lot upgrading your M14, it all depends on what brand of parts you use, and how efficient you do your work.


Rate Of Fire Upgrades:
Being a DMR rifle, I would not recommend that you attempt to upgrade your m14 with a high rate of fire.

What you can do:
Get a set of standard ratio gears, shim them properly, and get a lower spring with ball-bearing bushings and a short Systema Turbo Motor. It would be advisable to get a reinforced piston and some type of reinforced piston head. Also, a metal spring guide is wise, along with a MOSFET. You will want to replace your cut-off lever, as always.

Cost: To get your M14 shooting fast, it will cost you just as much as it will to get it shooting with a high fps.

What it will do: As stated before, you can make a higher ROF set-up with the M14, but it is not advised. With the proper upgrades, a good 9.6v battery, and a MOSFET, you can achieve from 20-40 rps. It all depends on what you use, and how you put it in.

Shimming: while you are in your Mechbox, why not shim it correctly? A Correctly shimmed gearbox can mean all the better for you and your airsoft gun. Please take the time to do it right the first time, before you waste $150 in parts. thankyou. Here are a few guides:
http://www.geocities...een/aegshim.htm
http://www.airsoftpa...pic.php?t=18269

The Thompson




The Thompson M1A1 is a weapon that most people use for purposes other than what it was intended. It was designed as a SMG just in the same regard as an MP5 or P90, and when upgrading one must remember it will not have the same characteristics as a rifle that sports a longer barrel. This weapon is obviously a niche market, the V6 gearbox is harder to find parts for and external accessories are about the most limited of any airsoft gun.

$50 Range Budget


Tightbore Barrel: At this point you may be wondering that if I just explained that the Thompson is an SMG, why am I suggesting a tightbore? The barrel is 300mm, which is actually about 70mm longer than an MP5 barrel. This upgrade will actually give you a rather nice range increase that will allow your weapon to see double duty as both a CQB and woodland combat gun and still be effective.

Hop-up Bucking: Obviously with any gun this increases the accuracy of the shots. This is a good upgrade for a woodland gun but for CQB it is rather superfluous.

Metal bushings: Plan on these if you wish to upgrade your spring or battery. When buying these, make sure to get the V6 M1A1/P90 version.

$50 CQB Budget


9.6V Battery: That V6 gearbox is built nicely and will handle a 9.6V. The purpose I built my Thompson for is pissing BBs, and there are very few things more fun than spraying a solid line down a CQB hallway!

Metal bushings: plan on these if you wish to upgrade your spring or battery.

$100 Range Budget


Tightbore Barrel: At this point you may be wondering that if I just explained that the Thompson is an SMG, why am I suggesting a tightbore? The barrel is 300mm, which is actually about 70mm longer than an MP5 barrel. This upgrade will actually give you a rather nice range increase that will allow your weapon to see double duty as both a CQB and woodland combat gun and still be effective.

Hop-up Bucking: Obviously with any gun this increases the accuracy of the shots. This is a good upgrade for a woodland gun but for CQB it is rather superfluous.

Metal bushings: Plan on these if you wish to upgrade your spring or battery. When buying these, make sure to get the V9 M1A1/P90 version.

Spring: Again, this one is done at the discretion of the owner. If you feel you need the extra range then an M110 or M120 spring is about all I would say for the stock gearbox. I've seen 120 run on it stock with no problems, but it will noticeably decrease your firing rate.

9.6V Battery: Switching over to 9.6V with an upgraded spring will obviously spit BBs rather far, but it's going to put a lot of stress on the V6 box (which is not known for the availability of its parts). This is where people start to lose the purpose of this AEG, they upgrade for range thinking it can be treated like an M4. They upgrade their gun for range and soon have dicey reliability with their gearbox and all of a sudden a gun that was decent at range is now broken and expensive to repair. Upgrading for range to this point is not recommended.

Piston Head: It's a good idea to upgrade the head when upgrading the spring.

$100 CQB Budget


9.6V Battery: That V6 gearbox is built nicely and will handle a 9.6V. The purpose I built my Thompson for is pissing BBs, and what better way to do that than to dish punishment around 1000RPM?

Metal bushings: Plan on these if you wish to upgrade your spring or battery. When buying these, make sure to get the V9 M1A1/P90 version.

Tightbore Barrel: When spitting BBs at a high rate, it is good to know where they will be going.

High Speed Gears: Another step to getting an insane firing rate (and let's face it, putting up a solid line of ammunition is what this gun is really about) is to replace the gears to a higher speed set. If you plan to run high speed gears, do not use anything higher than an M100 spring.

Piston Head: When operating at speeds this high, it's better to be safe than sorry.

$200 CQB Budget


9.6V Battery: That V6 gearbox is built nicely and will handle a 9.6V. The purpose I built my Thompson for is pissing BBs, and what better way to do that than to dish punishment around 1000RPM?

Metal bushings: Plan on these if you wish to upgrade your spring or battery. When buying these, make sure to get the V9 M1A1/P90 version.

Tightbore Barrel: When spitting BBs at a high rate, it is good to know where they will be going.

High Speed Gears: Another step to getting an insane firing rate (and let's face it, putting up a solid line of ammunition is what this gun is really about) is to replace the gears to a higher speed set. If you plan to run high speed gears, do not use anything higher than an M100 spring.

Piston Head: When operating at speeds this high, it's better to be safe than sorry.

Aluminum or Polycarbonate Piston: The lighter weight will help the piston operate at extreme speeds.

Motor: I suggest the System Turbo (the V6 takes a short type motor). At this point of upgrading, your Thompson will be firing at very high speeds reliably and will probably be one of the most feared short-range weapons at the skirmish. In many ways this gun is also a sleeper weapon, since upgrades are not as common most people do not expect these guns to be spitting 16+ BBs a second and in areas where the pistols and SMG comes out, this gun will shine like few others.

External Upgrades
This section is pretty much limited to buying real wood furniture. It's not like this gun needs anything else to be pretty anyways, it was made to do battle and looks good doing just that.

Thompson Guide By Enzo Guy, Props to you!



Part of the Misc Gun Guide, More to Come!

Edited by Aimfor1337, 03 May 2008 - 08:36 AM.

  • 0
PM/IM Me for AEG work.

-M4/M16 Variant Specialist-


Did someone mention Total Electrical Overhaul?

QUOTE
Opsic66 (11:11:27 PM): I say give her a good f*cking round house to the abdomen...
Aimfor1337 (11:11:31 PM): LOL
Opsic66 (11:11:32 PM): but there's a reason I'm not a dad

Powertools? Yes... I've got em

#9 Aimfor1337

Aimfor1337
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Nebraska
  • Interests:Airsoft

Posted 06 June 2008 - 10:46 PM

Guide currently being worked on once again, Closed.
  • 0
PM/IM Me for AEG work.

-M4/M16 Variant Specialist-


Did someone mention Total Electrical Overhaul?

QUOTE
Opsic66 (11:11:27 PM): I say give her a good f*cking round house to the abdomen...
Aimfor1337 (11:11:31 PM): LOL
Opsic66 (11:11:32 PM): but there's a reason I'm not a dad

Powertools? Yes... I've got em

#10 Ion

Ion
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Near Sacramento, CA
  • Interests:Football, paintball, fishing, airsoft, backpacking, camping, and most outdoor things

Posted 08 August 2008 - 08:13 PM

Upgrades for the SL8/SL9




Note: Whatever said for the SL8 also goes for the SL9, in airsoft they are the same thing.

The SL9 uses the Version 3 gearbox so whatever is for the V.3 will work. The SL9 has the same gearbox as the G36. The SL9 also uses a G36 hop-up. (This guide is only for TM compatible guns, these upgrades will NOT work in the Both Elephant SL8/SL9)

The SL9 is a DMR/sniper rifle. If you want to make it into an assualt rifle, look at CMP's G36 series guide.
Since the gun is more of a DMR I will stick to making a DMR and this won't be cheap.
There are a couple of ways to make an SL9, Classic Army and STAR make a complete gun. There are also kits for the G36 to make your gun into a SL9 made by STAR and other brands.
DMR- Designated Marksman Rifle

Accuracy and Range Improvements

Budget - $50

To make a gun a DMR you will focus alot on accuracy and range. Note: FPS means NOTHING! FPS can help with range and makes the BB less affected by wind but it will kill your gearbox quicker. A higher FPS doesn't mean a better gun.

Tightbore barrels: Tightbores are something you don't want to compromise with, a cheaper alternative is mostly a waste of money and won't help much. The only cheap TB barrels I would consider are Madbull and CA, otherwise you might as well keep the stock barrel. Get a Prometheus, or a DBC.
Hop-up: Hop-ups have the most affect on your range. if you can find a TM hop-up get it otherwise your stock hop-up will have to do. There are some other options for replacement hop-ups like SRC G36 metal hop-ups and CA G36 hop-ups. Another thing to replace is the hop-up bucking. I suggest going with a Prometheus bucking. Hard type buckings are made for guns shooting over 400fps and soft type buckings are for guns shooting under 400fps.
More buckings
Firefly buckings I havn't had experience with, but I hear they are some of the best.
Guarder no experience with
Systema no experience with
Oring for the piston head Orings help with compression. Size #14 is reccomended.

There really isn't much you can do with $50 when making a DMR.

Budget - $100 - $150


Tightbore: Prometheus, DBC, and PDI. There isn't much of a difference between 6.01mm barrels and 6.03mm barrels, normally the performance between them is almost unnoticeable.
Hop-up: Same thing. Prometheus bucking, Firefly, Guarder, and Systema.
Oring: Size #14
Spring: M110, M120, Will put you around 400fps. Only do this if your gun can handle it.
Bushings: CA and STAR come with metal bushings. But if you made an SL9 using a kit you may not have metal bushings. If you haven't replaced them with metal bushings you'd better do it now.
Piston Head: Most of the time the stock piston head will be fine but I recommend changing it to a Systema Duracon Piston head. I've also heard good things about the G&P explosive piston head.
NOTE: I never reccomend having an aluminum piston head or piston, they are heavier so they bring down trigger response, and can damage your gearbox and Cylinder head.

If done correctly these upgrades can increase range and accuracy greatly.

Budget - $200


Tightbore: Prometheus, DBC, and PDI.
Hop-up: Prometheus, Firefly, Guarder, and Systema buckings.
Oring: Size #14
Spring: Because you can spend more start thinking about an M130, this can put the fps from 440-460.
Bushings: They should be metal.
Spring guide: The CA comes with a Systema reiforced spring guide already. You will need to have a metal one for sure, and a reiforced spring guide is even better.
Piston Head: Systema Duracon Piston head or a G&P explosive piston head.
Piston: Most stock pistons are descent and will work well for awile. I like G&P White pistons. I like their durability. Other good pistons - Systema, stock KWA, Supercore, Prometheus, and Guarder pistons.
Gears: You may want to start thinking about new gears. Prometheus and Systema torque ups.
Motor: And you may want to think about a new motor if thte stock one can't handle it.

Full Blown 500-550fps DMR set-up


This is the expensive part. $350-$500 and above

Tightbore: Again Prometheus, DBC, and PDI
Hop-up: For this I would only go Prometheus hard bucking, or a Firefly.
Gearbox: You must have a reiforced gearbox, I went with a King Arms 8mm reinforced gearbox
Cylinder/cylinder head: I don't see the need to replace it unless you get a longer barrel, or your stock one isn't any good.
Oring: Numero catorce (#14)
Piston head: Systema Duracon Piston head or a G&P explosive piston head
Piston: G&P white piston, Systema, stock KWA, Supercore, Prometheus, and Guarder pistons.
Springs: M140 - 500fps, M150 - 550fps, PDI 260% - 500fps PDI springs are said that they don't lose any fps and they last very long in any set-up. The spring's velocity is a ballpark estimate you will get more fps depending on compression and the size barrel and cylinder you are using. Guarder springs aren't the same, EX. an SP130 shoots closer to an M140 and the SP140 shoots closer to an M150.
Spring guide: Systema reiforced spring guide
Gears: The new gears are a must now. There are a few torque-up gear sets you can go with. I would stick to Prometheus and SYstema torque-up gears Prometheus Double torque-up gears or Prometheus Triple torque-up gears Systema Super torque-ups will also work fine.
Motor: Time for a Magnum? Its your call. Systema magnum motors eat gears, but are one of the strongest motors availible. Guarder infinite torque-up motor are also nice. Another great motor is the SRC Ultra high torque motor I use one and it pulls a PDI 260% spring with an 8.4v mini.
Battery: You will need a 9.6v or higher battery. Lipos are also another option. I recommend getting an 9.6v Intellect, Elite, or Firefox battery.
With all of these you should have one kick a-censored.gif DMR.

REMEMBER TO SHIM PROPERLY..... There are alot of guides on it.

External add ons
Scope: I would get a scope or an aimpoint. I find that 3-5x zoom is good for airsofting 5x for spotting and 3x for aiming and shooting.
Tasco makes a great 3-9x40mm scope for $30 that you can pick up at Walmart.

Useful References
http://www.airsoftfo...ts-t113880.html
http://www.airsoftfo...ap-t117966.html
http://www.mechbox.com/page/6
http://www.mechbox.com/page/7
http://www.airsoftfo...g out full auto

© Copyright 2008 Ion - you must have my permission to use this at other places

Edited by Ion, 08 August 2008 - 08:25 PM.

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Props to Onikozah for the sig.
[A&K SR-25 Review] [JG M16A2 Review] [SRC G36c Vs. JG G36c Review]
QUOTE
[ComradeMP] 5:08 pm: your such a nub, I put you in my gun and gave me teh gud hop up

#11 EV3NT HORIZON

EV3NT HORIZON
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Posted 11 September 2008 - 02:19 PM

can we get an AUG uping guide?
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speedball 4 life!

COD4 is sick

HALO freek!

guns rock!

#12 mortarrey

mortarrey

Posted 27 October 2008 - 11:32 PM

how about the FAMAS? Thanks a lot...
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#13 bigdaddy997

bigdaddy997
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Posted 11 December 2008 - 03:02 PM

Well for externals, u could use this to check out M4 upgrades
http://www.larueprof...m/Profiler.html
its kind of fun to customize your own m4
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BIGDADDY

#14 fenderbender633

fenderbender633
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Posted 10 February 2009 - 03:11 PM

l85 is a great gun for upgrading please help http://www.airsoftfo...6#entry17959186 must ...also http://www.airsoftfo...9#entry17956159 ...and check this too http://www.airsoftfo...y17958944...and on a side not heres an mp7 I want to upgrade http://www.airsoftfo...0#entry17955230
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War does not determine who is right - only who is left. I AM LEFT!!! FTW!!!!

Current Primary: ICS M4 or G&G L85 A2 or Well L96
Current Secondary: Tokyo Marui MP7 or WE 1911 or UTG Multishot M3

#15 Aimfor1337

Aimfor1337
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Posted 15 April 2009 - 02:54 PM

TM FAMAS





These threads will help with all of your famas upgrading needs. Since making a guide would be a waste of time, read these along with more of D0096F's threads and posts, he has the most experience with the TM FAMAS and FAMAS SV.





Edited by Aimfor1337, 15 April 2009 - 03:07 PM.

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PM/IM Me for AEG work.

-M4/M16 Variant Specialist-


Did someone mention Total Electrical Overhaul?

QUOTE
Opsic66 (11:11:27 PM): I say give her a good f*cking round house to the abdomen...
Aimfor1337 (11:11:31 PM): LOL
Opsic66 (11:11:32 PM): but there's a reason I'm not a dad

Powertools? Yes... I've got em

#16 Bravo1

Bravo1
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Posted 02 February 2010 - 04:35 AM

QUOTE (Aimfor1337 @ Dec 27 2007, 08:26 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I can tell you one thing: FPS is nothing if you do not have a good hop up setup. FPS only gets the bb to the target faster. So, if you are reading this Guide because you think that fps will make your gun shoot straighter, you may want to look above.


I read the articles above and found them to quite informative, thanks for posting, and I do agree, higher FPS do get your bb to the target faster, HOWEVER....(all things being equal) the faster they get to the target the less they are effected by wind drift, which is a accuracy consideration. I know this from years of real steel and from airsoft experience.

So to say that FPS ONLY gets a BB to the target faster is somewhat misleading to the readers.



Bravo1




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M4, M16-Commando, G36K, AK74, M9 ---- (M16-DMR build pending)

" You'll shoot your eye out !!! "

#17 Aimfor1337

Aimfor1337
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Posted 09 July 2010 - 11:56 PM

Noted. Thanks.
  • 0
PM/IM Me for AEG work.

-M4/M16 Variant Specialist-


Did someone mention Total Electrical Overhaul?

QUOTE
Opsic66 (11:11:27 PM): I say give her a good f*cking round house to the abdomen...
Aimfor1337 (11:11:31 PM): LOL
Opsic66 (11:11:32 PM): but there's a reason I'm not a dad

Powertools? Yes... I've got em

#18 Aimfor1337

Aimfor1337
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Posted 09 July 2010 - 11:57 PM

Noted. Thanks.
  • 0
PM/IM Me for AEG work.

-M4/M16 Variant Specialist-


Did someone mention Total Electrical Overhaul?

QUOTE
Opsic66 (11:11:27 PM): I say give her a good f*cking round house to the abdomen...
Aimfor1337 (11:11:31 PM): LOL
Opsic66 (11:11:32 PM): but there's a reason I'm not a dad

Powertools? Yes... I've got em

#19 m99 sniper

m99 sniper
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Posted 14 January 2011 - 10:33 AM

my matrix m4 just broke down for the fith time so I took it apart. the gun came with a tight bore pre-installed so its still got the hop up on it, I want to put it in my dmr because it has the same length barrel. what I need to know is do I just take the hop up off and it insert it on my dmrs hop or what?
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#20 Basic Element

Basic Element

Posted 18 August 2011 - 11:26 AM

Could a Magpul Masada upgrade guide be done? It would be a great help. Im kinda lost with the internals.

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#21 jayheuk

jayheuk

Posted 18 January 2012 - 10:40 PM

The Magpul Masada is completely compatible with v2 parts. I don't know if you can just drop in a systema complete GB, but all the internals are compatible. Idk about the gearbox shell though...heard its a little different.
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#22 NEAairsofter

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  • My Temperament:Choleric

Posted 27 February 2013 - 12:16 PM

Hi, sorry if im posting this in the wrong place or whatever but I just havea quick qustion... Im still fairly new to the upgrading stuff but I was just wondering how do you kno when u need a new cylinder? not piston, piston head, or cylinder I mean the actual cylinder. whats the difference in a new and stock one? are the stock ones bad?
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#23 airborne101

airborne101

    If you have a problem, and no one else can help...

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Posted 27 February 2013 - 01:29 PM

You can use the stock cylinder so long as it isn't damaged.

The only time you need to replace/change the cylinder is when you change barrel lengths. Here are 2 lists that show barrel length corresponding to cylinder porting

QUOTE
Type 0 (No hole): 450-580mm
Type 1: Systema makes this one, it has a hole in the edge and is said to be for M4/M16/XM177/AK47. It is essentially a go between for the type 0 and type 2
Type 2 (4/5 hole): 364-460mm
Type 3 (3/4 hole): 227-430mm
Type 4 (1/2 hole): 110-170mm
(21st Centry Airsoft/ArniesAirsoft)

Another list, slightly different numbers

Type 0 - No Hole: 450-580mm
Type 1 - 4/5 Hole: 364-460mm
Type 2 - 3/4 Hole: 227-430mm
Type 3 - 2/3 Hole:
Type 4 - 1/2 Hole: 110-170mm

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#24 AllAboutTheO

AllAboutTheO

Posted 01 March 2013 - 07:05 PM

QUOTE (Basic Element @ Aug 18 2011, 11:26 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Could a Magpul Masada upgrade guide be done? It would be a great help. Im kinda lost with the internals.

Yea. Look up videos on youtube. The internals are a little similar to m4s
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#25 NEAairsofter

NEAairsofter
  • Location:North East Arkansas
  • Interests:Looking for some people in the North East Arkansas/South East Misouri Areas to work on expanding the interest in airsoft within the area.

  • My Temperament:Choleric

Posted 16 March 2013 - 07:22 PM

hey guys so ive got quite a delimna. I just got a cm032a and somehow... stripped a gear... the sprocket gear. anyway its a version 7 gear box and I just need a new gear. but I cant find any for the v7. any ideas? besides buying a whole new gear box. thanks
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#26 Cheezeball14

Cheezeball14

Posted 03 April 2013 - 01:45 AM

I know this may be too early but anything on the new APS UAR?

Attached Files


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#27 Aimfor1337

Aimfor1337
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  • Interests:Airsoft

Posted 30 May 2013 - 10:50 PM

QUOTE (Cheezeball14 @ Apr 3 2013, 01:45 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I know this may be too early but anything on the new APS UAR?



Notchet, looks like a its probably going to be a v3 just from design. bullpup like AUG
  • 0
PM/IM Me for AEG work.

-M4/M16 Variant Specialist-


Did someone mention Total Electrical Overhaul?

QUOTE
Opsic66 (11:11:27 PM): I say give her a good f*cking round house to the abdomen...
Aimfor1337 (11:11:31 PM): LOL
Opsic66 (11:11:32 PM): but there's a reason I'm not a dad

Powertools? Yes... I've got em

#28 Martinairsoftmegastore

Martinairsoftmegastore
  • Gender:Male

Posted 26 September 2013 - 02:40 AM

Well, it was thoroughly informative and was glad to know the details about the FPS upgrades as I was considering to do some upgrades in my own rifles. One more thing that I found to be interesting is the trick for increasing the durability!

Martin from

Edited by alberty, 26 September 2013 - 09:33 AM.
You need a Sponsor account in order to advertise airsoft store links.

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#29 cwalters0806

cwalters0806
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Posted 13 April 2014 - 05:38 PM

Hello, I just started this and I can't seem to figure out how to make a post. How do I make a post?
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