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  1. Yesterday
  2. Due to the de-evolution of modern airsoft parts. Any of these could be your issue. Gear Box rails are not consistent and too high at back of mechbox. Piston guide rails are too thick and bind on mechbox guide rails. ^The above two issues can be exacerbated if they both exist. Spring is too long, or of an inferior design and is bottoming out preventing piston from moving back. Motor is of a low quality and can't wind the spring back, exacerbated buy a redundant double bearing system. Battery is of a low quality or performance level that can't supply the "AMPS" to turn over the mechbox for a complete cycle. Piston is not cupping over spring guide due to flex in gear box channel.
  3. Bad casting...you will have to try and get a replacement from AS
  4. Last week
  5. I'm unable to take the bearings off the spring guide, all the parts I try together still lock up. Whenever I open the gearbox back up after it locks up, the gears are mid cycle of pulling back the piston but for some strange reason it doesn't want to it back after a certain point, it's like it refuses to. I've tried different piston with different gears but it still locks up https://imgur.com/gallery/y52g4Qx
  6. Ok... I did separate the receivers and took a closer look. I took a vid, but the forum won't allow me to upload it, smh. Basically what's happening is the piston is moving back and forth, but pretty slow. I mean, slower than it should at least. And I still don't really know how to describe the sound. I guess it's closer to a grinding that whirring, idk. It's weird. I guess I'll just get the gearbox...
  7. Yes, it will not screw down on any propane bottle. I have tried several different brands.
  8. Sounds like the threads don't match. Have you tried any other bottle?
  9. Getting another gearbox is your call. But, on Airsoft Society another user is trying to make a Lonex shell fit in a VFC....it's not going so well. Circle back to my comment about Airsoft devolving... Video can help...how about posting some videos.
  10. I don't really know how else to describe it... it sounds almost like the gears are engaging and giving up 🤔. It's weird. But yes, it pulses twice and stops. The motor does vibrate a lot, but it's pretty loud and hard to tell exactly where the sound is coming from. And there is no MOSFET that I know of. The piston seems fine. Idk... let me know whether or not to just get a gearbox...
  11. The threads start but it will not screw all the way down without using a wrench and applying a lot of force which I am hesitant to do.
  12. Unknown..you provided no pictures for comparison or examination with your issue. If we can't see it we can't definitely say. I would say remove the bearings on the spring guide and inspect and test component compatibility before you put the box back together.
  13. No Station is not out of business. They are just more "online" oriented and not retail oriented any more. They are also having staffing issues. I know a guy that was just hired there. If it's not threading down...it's not made right. Have you done a visual inspection to make sure the threads match? Sadly the unit you got is sold by a distributor in Ramsey MN...
  14. That is a heavy Rocket spring if it's shooting a .23g at that speed. I am wondering if your chrono is set to the wrong speed. Why are you looking to change the Cylinder?
  15. Not much response on this Forum Greg. It went down a couple of years back and the people that left went to Arnies and Society. The answers you got on AS would be the same as from people here. But to reiterate...Easy maintenance is taking out the barrel and seeing if the hop-up rubber is intact and not cracked. If you didn't mess with the mechbox...you can leave it in stock form and just note that when you sell it.
  16. Here is another thing...the Modern Airsoft Industry has devolved. Nothing is made "TM Compatible" any more. There are no standards, minimal QC and definitely fleece the "new user" is the norm. Nothing is slap togther simple or "you can just buy a part to fix/replace that...". Those that do say something like that is not very "experienced" in the matter of "fixing" airsoft. So, with that let's address your next set of symptoms. I have never heard anyone describe a whirring sound that pulses twice. Please provide more detail. Does it pulse twice and then stop? Where is the noise originating from? Motor? MOSFET (is there a mosfet)? Have you testing piston compatibility? I.e...is it to fat for the mechbox?
  17. I purchased the above described propane adaptor from Airsoft Station recently with a Glock 19X pistol. The propane adaptor will not hand screw into a standard BernzOmatic propane bottle. The threads will start but not screw down enough to allow gas to flow. I am hesitant to use a wrench to tighten it. I have given up contacting Airsoft Station, it appears they have gone out of business. Any suggestions?
  18. So by removing the bearings for the spring to sit on, this will fix my issue?
  19. I'm using M130 Spring (Rocket Brand), already solved the problem, it was the piston oring lol. I bought a metal piston head to replace the stock one. now works great, could have gotten away with just replacing the oring but why not. lol. right now im getting consistent readings at 0.23g 440-450fps <AT> 18rps. Barrel length is 363mm 6.01 tight barrel. planning to change the cylinder too. any recommendations? Current cylinder is type 0. planning to replace it with a type 1.
  20. So the last time I used my airsoft collection was about 2014. In those 6 years, the guns have been kept in a dark, cool place, but obviously haven't been used or maintained. To prep these guns for sale, would we assume that the hop up is shot if the rubber is 11 years old? Are my batteries that have been unused for 6 years going to hold a charge? I just charged up the battery for my classic army SCAR-L (CA202P) and it seemed to shoot perfectly. In a perfect world, I would like to sell two KWA M4s (generation 1) to someone who needs a cheap starter gun. I just wouldn't want to sell something with a bunch of caveats about how well the gun would work, since the guns are ancient. Then I'd sell the CA Scar to a more experienced player because it is discontinued, really beautiful, and I would consider it rare (it isn't the sportline version, but a version that predated sportline, full metal and used to retail for about $300-400). Please let me know what kind of easy maintenance I should do to be courteous to those buying my guns when they go on sale. PS, what is the preferred means to sell guns these days? I have sold on eBay before, and I remember this facebook group I once belonged to was just full of people without any money (they would only trade you). Is there a good way to sell? I'm assuming facebook marketplace wouldn't be ideal.
  21. Hey, thx for the reply! I did the shim test like you said and it was good. So I put the gun back together and tried again. This time it's making a kinda whirring sound that pulses twice. I'm starting to feel defeated and wondering if I should just get a new gearbox. Is there anything else I should try first, or just get the gearbox?
  22. Double Bearing system is beyond redundant. It's actually stressing your mechbox more than normal and is contributing to mechbox lockup. Spring is bottoming out. This can cause the issue you are having with along with the bearing not consistently fitting into the piston. Spring is operating at a higher spring rate due to 2cm of precompression. Makes your motor work harder...etc... Causes a higher FPS than anticipated. Can lead to mechbox failure, common with V2 and in the cold.
  23. Earlier
  24. Yeah I am running a double bearing system, if I shouldn't do that then I will just use the stock plastic piece no big deal
  25. A True M130 will not give you 440-450FPS. It should be about 410-420FPS. That is if you are chronoing with a .20 bb to get those FPS. Or you have a really bad M130 spring and it's more like a M140. Which could lend to the FPS issue you are having. Then the question that needs to be answered is do you have a Hard spring or a Soft Spring. A hard spring is usually more expensive and comes at the settled FPS. A Soft spring is a spring that compress down to it's operating range. Example, sold as a M100, but it's really a M120 that needs to settle/compress down to the M100 operating range. This is indicative of a SystemA/HurricanE spring. Unlike the Japanese springs like PDI or Prometheus which are hard springs that come at their rated speed. Another issue is your piston oring is too soft and since you are driving such a hard spring, you are getting blow by...you not using a solvent to lubricate your cylinder are you?
  26. On a side note, guess what just slid in no problem? I swear I just gained a few grey hairs from this. Thanks for the help!
  27. Can someone help me with my problem, I am having random FPS drops, current fps is around 440-450fps <AT>0.23 but sometimes drops to around 200-300fps. Can't find the problem. cylinder has good compression. tight barrel and bucking also has a good seal. cylinder head and airseal nozzle also has a good seal. airseal nozzle has good contact with the bucking. should I try replacing the bucking to a different brand? the internals are as follows SHS Cylinder head SHS Airseal nozzle (trimmed down to the correct size and tapered the edge) M130 Spring 6.01 Tight Barrel SRC Hop Up Bucking the rest is stock.
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