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  1. Today
  3. 【CUSTOM GBB WORKSHOP】 BERETTA M9A3 SRC base deep marking, deep 0.3 mm grip
  4. 【CUSTOM GBB WORKSHOP】 FN Browning Hi Power mk3 WE base deep marking, deep 0.3mm cerakote detail fix
  5. Yesterday
  6. Admin is Admin. Sadly, after the site came back up and a small nudge to get the populace back, this sight is like the Roman Empire. There is an active population on Airsoft Society.
  7. Last week
  8. That nozzle is a gimmick. Don't buy them unless you know you specifically need one of a certain type. What hop-up packing (aka bucking) are you using? It is sounding like you have a nozzle that is too big and a packing that is too "sticky".
  9. yes I got an aluminum o ring nozzle and it didnt help I disassembled it again including the gearbox,and again it shot great in semi and also in short 3 round burst in full auto.then I tried shooting in full auto and after about 10 rounds it started to double feed,and some of the BBs had irregular hop
  10. Never spray oil into the hop-up chamber...it is not a solution if you defeat the ability of the unit to spin the bb. For an AEG that feeds fine but has no hop-up is rather useless. Did you change the nozzle?
  11. Big surprise, it arrived without the booklet. Any hard copy / PDF / or web address will do fine, thanks.
  12. I clean the barrel time I test it ,I bought a new bucking,and it still had the issues,I use G&G 0.28 gr BBs with a high polish,I suspected that the problem was with the tappet plate and spring,and I still think that this might be the issue,and that the nozzle is not aligned with the barrel.I even sprayed silicone oil in the chamber thinking that the bucking is too tight,and it ran a bit better but it still double fed,and of course it didnt have any hop because of the quantity of oil when it malfunctions its like it cant push the BB through the bucking and then it double and tripple feeds, I tried searching for the stock bucking hardness but I couldnt find any information,I suspect that it might be because of the bucking hardness sorry if I spell misspell something english isnt my first language 🙂
  13. What brand of bbs have you used? Your not cleaning the barrel and packing with an oil are you? Have you changed the packing? Packing is the correct term for a "bucking". Sounds like your have a "dirty packing" One that is gummed up with oil and dirt. With use it stretches, then with no use it shrinks. MOSFET will not address a feeding issue if it's a preexisting condition and if it's just a SSR or AB. Also note. American Consumerism does not apply in Airsoft. Nothing is made to a standard, variances have increased greatly over the last 15 years and mixing parts is not ideal...like that o-ring nozzle.
  14. I bought a cyma cm 040c replica almost a year ago.When I played my first game with it it ran well,at the very end of the game it started to spit out BBs.I didnt know what was going on.I later bought higher quality BBs and it seemed to fix the problem,after a month it started acting up again,it just didnt want to push the BBs over the bucking lip.I put in a mosfet and an aluminum o ring nozzle,hoping it would help,because I noticed that a BB would ocassionaly get stuck on the stock nozzle,after taking it apart and reassembling it over 10 times including the gearbox it ran with no issue for 2-3 months and the first game I went to after that period it acted up again and to this day I cant seem to fix it.NOW I noticed that the nozzle alignment is really bad I tried shimming the entire gearbox to fix it and it still failed,and to note every time I reassembled it,it would shoot fine for a few seconds and it would start to misfeed and double feed,I tried different mags but it didnt help,also it didnt matter if it was in full auto or semi.It has a great air seal I know its not under powered,I manually pushed BBs into the bucking ant it would send them flying every time
  15. 【CUSTOM GBB WORKSHOP】 FN Browning Hi Power Standard 75th Anniversary WE base deep marking, deep 0.3mm cerakote detail fix
  16. OK I'll take a look at the KSC M9. Thanks for your help!
  17. I had this same problem, and none of these replies are super helpful because they’re sort of general ways to help with wobble on most guns, but don’t really apply to OP’s situation. I know this post is dead but I found it when trying to solve the same issue on my ICS MP5SD. I’ve figured out the fix, and maybe it could save someone else the hassle I went through if they stumble on this post like I did. If you unscrew the silencer can, there’s a machined piece It steps down from a smaller diameter to larger, and you can see the inner barrel peeking out of the top. The bottom, largest diameter section has the threads for the silencer can. You’ll see two holes on opposite sides, (like 3oclock and 9oclock) drilled right into the threading for the silencer. These are the key, that’s how you’re going to unscrew it. When I tried this and was scared it would break, but a friend with the same gun assured me and showed me on his. The threads were just glued shut. Dip the front of the barrel (the first inch or so) in very hot (boiled) water for 30 seconds or so to loosen the glue. Now take it out Of the hot water, put the gun stock down so you’re looking down the barrel basically (I know, wear eyepro or whatever helps you sleep at night for breaking the rule, or just clear the gun like you should before hand) I kneeled on the floor to do this, with the rear stock on the ground, and pinched the gun between my knees to hold it in place. Take two Allen wrenches, or screwdrivers, whatever you have that will fit in those two holes in the threading (use something strong, find Allen wrenches that are as big as will fit, or bolts or something) and turn them counter-clockwise (the normal lefty loosie move) to unscrew the front silencer mounting bracket. IT IS REALLY HARD TO UNSCREW. When I did this I thought I was doing something wrong and about to break it, but a friend showed me his, it takes a lot of force. If it seems like it won’t budge, give it more force, or dip the front end in the hot water another 30 seconds and try again. When it finally unscrews, you will see the actual outer barrel, and a small hex grub screw holding it in place. Use the proper Allen wrench to tighten this down (or better yet, remove it, add loctite and then screw it in so you never have this problem again). This will solve your silencer wobble problem! Screw the silencer mounting piece back on to the outer barrel, then re-attach the silencer and you should be good to go!! hope this helps!
  18. Earlier
  19. KWA M9 can use RS 3/5# triggers The analog to the is the KSC M9 which can be found for less. Being that is is for a trainer, I would skip the TM. You don't need to pay the premium for a performance bb dispensing capability when you just need it as a trigger trainer.
  20. 【CUSTOM GBB WORKSHOP】 FN Browning Hi power MK3 WE base deep marking, deep 0.3mm
  21. OK well it doesn't have to be a PX4. Is there another DA/SA option that allows for installing the real steel trigger spring, such as the TM FNX45 or the KWA M9?
  22. Nope...trigger pull is much lighter in Airsoft. By about 60% lighter. With that certain models can have real steel trigger springs installed. The TM PX4 though, the springs are not the same. As for revolver, that market is polluted with low end items that are actually "flimsy" Those would be disposable...the revolver "only" (WIngun, KWC) factories in Airsoft is strictly low end goods.
  23. Thanks for asking! Beretta PX4, and revolver. Trigger practice for the DA/SA transition is what I'm hoping to gain, and DA pull that would help re revolver -- assuming that the airsoft DA is anything like the DA of the PX4 or revolver. Is it?
  24. Good Airsoft pistols are not that fragile. Let's start with which pistol you carry and want trigger practice on. A Glock is a SA only pistol. FNX is the DA/SA, but so is a M9, P226/9... So, let's take it a step further by matching the trainer to the RS you have.
  25. With the scarcity, and high cost when available, of ammo I'd like to start airsoft training as a substitute. Ideally I'd like a pistol that is DA/SA but I'm a believer that trigger time is trigger time and I could probably be OK with a Glock or HiCapa although the Glocks seem to be sold out everywhere. My primary criteria are simplicity and reliability. I don't want to have to start repairing, modifying, and tinkering, so one question I have is if the DA/SA action is going to be as reliable as an SA pistol? In other forums I've read that Tokyo Marui is the best quality and most reliable but that is from non-experts so I'm asking here. TM makes the FNX45 that is DA/SA and available from Evike. KWA has the M9 available for less $$ but I don't know how KWA compares to TM in quality. I would appreciate any opinions about choosing between those two pistols, and in hearing of any other options I should be considering. Thanks!
  26. 【CUSTOM GBB WORKSHOP】 BERETTA M9A1 G&G GPM-92F base deep marking, deep 0.3mm grip cerakote Anodizing detail fix after & before
  28. 【CUSTOM GBB WORKSHOP】 HK G36C WE base deep marking, deep 0.3mm
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