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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/16/2014 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Before you go mod crazy...it uses core components from the G Series. With that...most parts don't improve performance. Gas Valves for Mags - BS Upgrade. Barrel - Not really upgrades unless you go longer than stock. Being that this is a GAS gun. Tighter bore on such a short barrel is an unnecessary upgrade. The simplest improvement you can make for range and accuracy is swapping to a Crazy Jet Barrel, use the MR Type VSR Packing and then shoot heavy bbs.
  2. 2 points
    You are so 2005... I saw this last Monday.
  3. 1 point
    If your AEG is under the field limit. Do this from simplest to hardest. Swap to a better voltage battery. What are you using now? Swap out motor to HS motor. Change the gear set, but since your new and this seems to be your only AEG. DO NOT do this. In this video at 2:00 mark. The AEG is using a battery supplying 8.2V under load and feeding a 45,000RPM motor. It's hitting 25 rounds per second and the mechbox is in stock form.
  4. 1 point
    For your fields: https://www.google.com/search?q=Columbus+Ohio+Airsoft+field&rlz=1C1CAFC_enUS835US835&oq=Columbus+Ohio+Airsoft+field&aqs=chrome..69i57j0.5214j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 You have 3 it seems. At the 200 price point you have options. What platform appeals to you?
  5. 1 point
    You will spend the price of the GBB 2 times over buying parts that is not really going to help you. Are you in the EU? First off some nomenclature needs to be clarified. Stretching a slide? Slides don't stretch...its a solid piece of metal. I think you are referring to "racking" the slide? A 17/19 hammer group will not work with a 18C fire control group. They Do Not Line up with out "modification". The SA to FA fire issue is most likely due to a worn disconnector. Silicone OIL is useless in modern Airsoft. You need light grease or heavy oil to keep you GBBP in perfect running condition. Stronger recoil spring will cause other issues if installed. GBBP are whole functioning system. You need to understand that if you change a part here. How does that affect the operation as a whole. Posting pictures will help describe your issues better than your descriptions. Can you post useful pictures of the internal interface between upper and lower?
  6. 1 point
    Correct. Green Gas is bottled with no standards at all, much like the majority of the industry. I worked with some of the USA bottlers and they just let the "crap" flush into the GG tanks. We have found solvent, water, rust particles and improper levels of silicone oil in various GG gases. You can get the Propane Canisters any where there they sell Propane, hardware stores, Lowes, Target, Walmart, many places. It's not that hard to find. They are sold under common names like Bernzomatic, Coleman, Worthington....etc. Adapters are sold on airsoft sites or ebay. Plus when temps get cooler, run a higher pressure organics, Propene. When it gets hot, run R152 duster gas to keep the operating pressure around 115psi. DO NOT put any silicone oil in the gas. If anyone tells you to do this...they are ignorant of the facts of oil in the gas. Back in the 1990's sure...but not in modern Airsoft. As to which one...that is Up To You. You asked for a 1911...get the "1911" the closest to matching what you want to replicate. Got a Classic 1911...get the 1911A1, more modernized in the MKII, get the MKII...etc.
  7. 1 point
    Get a KWA PTP 1911. They are certified for this... https://store.kwausa.com/product-category/gun-type/pistols/ DO NOT put oil in the mag. This is detrimental to KWA seals and the industry is too dumb to realize this. Dry propane is all you need and regular gun grease for the rails.
  8. 1 point
    US players has gone to the tether...Asia left the tether 30 years for it's lack of "realism". Thus with that, it's all personal choice now. Get what appeals to you. However, Tippmann is not highly supported. Items in stock now...get it while you can...plus all the cool new tech developed for AEG...not always available for Tippmann or easily adaptable. Sure...you have FPS consistency...but the guy with a ML MR hop-up will out range you by 10 yards. And when he needs to he can hand the gun off to a teammate and does a door breach with a flash light and a pistol. Mean while the tether guys has to play a supporting role...because they can't get "skinny". But, that is an extreme example at a Scenario op that lasted 2 days at an old sanatorium
  9. 1 point
    Sounds more like your charging/cocking arm broke. You should be using silicone spray as a lubricant (the industry is wrong on this BTW...). You should be using a heavy oil or a light grease. As for disassembly, I cannot assist. You might want to pose this question on Airsoft Society for when ASF went down...the flock went there and to Arnies.
  10. 1 point
    Talk to July_Pi on his Custom GBB Thread
  11. 1 point
    I do....I am very astute and watchful of the battery makers. Sadly...90% of the player base doesn't know a good battery from a bad one and then on top of that they over pay by 250% for a bad battery when they could have had a better battery for less.
  12. 1 point
    If you're looking for a more skirmishable subgun, I highly recommend the Avalon MP5. The only upgrade needed out of the box is a 22TPA high torque motor for crisp semiauto trigger response. I'm a big fan of mine.
  13. 1 point
    You mentioned you wanted a REAL MP5...if you shoot people with that....what happens...get it? Versus a GAS Airsoft ...which you can own with 4 spare mags for about $800.00....and you can "shoot" people with it...on a sanctioned event of course.
  14. 1 point
    If you want to learn...Do... Not...Learn...On...Your...Primary....AEG. Do it with a boneyard AEG. Season over season, at the game field, some "new guy" tech'd on their one and only AEG. It really did nothing to improve the thing with parts and it let's go after 200 rounds due to a New Tech Mistake...
  15. 1 point
    Get the VFC MP5 Gas SMG with the steel receivers. Won't have to worry about shooting people with that item... And remember this is Airsoft. What the BB dispenser looks like has absolutely no bearing on it's performance capability.
  16. 1 point
    For Society, you need to create an account and then wait for approval. Usually takes 1-2 days. MP5 - V2 Mechbox, stock is already 250mm MP5K - V3 Mechbox, stock is only 120mm
  17. 1 point
    It's all Fluid Dynamics and the Pressure Wave. Think Spit Ball Fight. Who has more range? The guy with 4" straw or the guy with the 10" straw. So, to get more speed you need the bb to ride the pressure wave longer. So...that requires a longer barrel. Get the barrel out to 250mm (Double stock K length) and you can make it to 400fps with out making your AEG run exponentially harder. As for me...I left this site too when it went down over a year ago. Most people went to Society to continue the discussions about Airsoft. I was contact back here on a question a few months back and I came back to answer it....not I just check in to help those that need it.
  18. 1 point
    MP5 All Varinats use a V2. - A1-A5, SD4-SD5, RIS RAS. J Spec...etc. MP5K, all variants uses a V3 - K, PDW, etc. Gears are universal between the two...but V3 parts are not hard to find either.
  19. 1 point
    Any Airsoft gun can be put into the hands a "beginner". As a matter of fact I shoot more "rich" kids with expensive AEG's with my pistol at about the same rate as my AEG...why...because they lack any type of skill. If you want a trouble free 'starter" AEG. Get anything made by a branded house. G&G, ICS, VFC, G&P...etc. Distributor Rebrands like Valken, Lancer Tactical, are less "ideal" for new players for they are batch made at the lowest cost factory found. Big Box AEG's are also bad due to those items made a really low price point...most are 40.00 wholesale btw... Best gun for a beginner IMHO is a used one from a reputable player. You get something more at less than retail price.
  20. 1 point
    I've always used Gorilla Glue, but I've heard Loctite's Adhesive Compound (Cyanoacrylate compound) is better. For example, if I were to glue down sorbothane to a cylinderhead or bushings to a gearbox shell, which of these brands would be better? Which do you use? The reason I ask is because the stock sorbothane/rubber pad that sits on my cylinder head has come off (jamming my gun...). Since I have to glue it on, I want to make sure that I use glue that won't let it come off again. Also, how do I properly surface prep an area to be glued? Just scrub it with rubbing alcohol, or is there more to it? Thanks for the help
  21. 1 point
    SRU has made two poly versions for a Carbine Kit.
  22. 1 point
    Okay...what has happened to you is not "uncommon" for KWA. Let me say this...American Consumerism Does Not Apply to Airsoft. There is no QC in anything, there are no standards to manufacturing. It's a buyer beware market..throw out any expectations you may have about products and we will go from there. So with that, I will tell you what has happened to your KWA products. First off, what brand gas is this? From what I said above about being No QC. This could be a factor in your seal failure. When the gas bottlers bottle the gas. They Do Not Filter the propane. Many impurities gets into the gas. Solvents that they cleaned the tank with from a prior run. Grease, oil, flecks of debris and water, yes water. Plus, the USA Airsoft Industry is rather "stupid", I know...I worked for them and the people that were the Captains of the company wouldn't be able to launch a dingy in a kiddie pool. KWA is an older Taiwanese Airsoft company their seals are "rubber", old rubber, rubber that was not designed to have "solvents" with oil injected into the mags under pressure type old magazine. The very thing that GG is made of, Propane and Oil. Back before 2006, Green Gas was HFC-122 a refrigerant. This did not harm "rubber" seals, nor was it made with oil in the material. However, bring that these are "rubber" seals. They did dry out. Oiling them with Silicone oil does help rejuvenate the seal, but only if there were no impurities in the oil. It doesn't take much to destroy KWA seals. Plus oil in the gas puts oil in places you don't want oil and it doesn't put oil on the places you need oil. With a KWA product, this is highly detrimental...remember they are an old Airsoft company. You need to run Dry Propane, no oil. You need a light grease or a heavy oil and you need to lube the rails, friction points and the hammer group. ^That is the PROPER way of making your KWA's last 20 years. I have one from 1999...still running...albeit it has become a shelf queen. Now...for your leaks. Take a wide mouth clear glass bottle/cup. Fill it with water. Fill a leaky mag and put the base in. Is it leaking from around the bottom base seal or the fill valve. The bubbles will tell you. Base seals are easy to reinforce and reseal. Fill valves, your toast. Unless you have access to really, really small o-rings...the gas/oil most likely ate the rubber. FYI...I have been Airsofting since the 20th Century. I am the last of the Old Rainbow Unicorns that helped bring Airsoft to the USA...that is just my level of experience.
  23. 1 point
    If its a non-load bearing piece...there is no stress. My Deer Pistol has many G&P Milspec parts on it. However, I am not sure if yours is Mil-spec or Com-Spec Quite honestly...sell it as a whole gun and be done with it with some cash in your pocket. If your moving to the US...you can get cheap Airsoft GBBR parts here to put on your AR. Here is a hint....all these AR parts being made. It all comes from China...you can pick up 20.00 Rails...heck..I got a Giessele Rail and the Giessele rep couldn't even tell them apart. I also picked up a VLTOR stock from China too and it Came from China with a VLTOR registration card...with a valid serial number on it that I could register on the VLTOR sitw...for 1/4 of the RS price... And just so you know...they have been doing this since 2006...
  24. 1 point
    What wrong with Airsoft and you are going to ask only someone who has only "6-month" of EXP? You are not going to get one that is qualified to answer your initial question accurately. I'll tell you the major issues of what's wrong from 3 decades of experience. 1. Wrong information is passed as the Gospel - People don't think big picture or ask...why is that? 2. Airsofters don't like to be corrected - See number 1. 3. 80% of the parts sold are just stock parts rebranded as an "upgrade" part - SHS (upgrade) and A&K (OEM) come from the same production line, literally. 4. US Distributors do NOT have your best interest in mind. They want to fleece you quick and go after the next newb - Tenergy Products, Silicone Oil 5. No standards in componentry - Most things are not TM compatible any more. 6. Products are made, sold and used due to a defect of "another" part. And then it gets canonized as a necessary upgrade part - bearings on spring guide/piston head and o-ring nozzles. I could think up about 5 or 10 more things...but I get distracted easily on 'What's wrong with Airsoft".
  25. 1 point
  26. 1 point
    Where's <AT>Kavurcen has he turned 13 yet?
  27. 1 point
    <AT>Eat My M4 Get in here and :censored2: some bridges with us.
  28. 1 point
  29. 1 point
    I'm gonna Shredder your Concave Space.
  30. 1 point
    Put a Systema bucking on your SCS nub and stick it in my anus daddy
  31. 1 point
    Actual footage of admin after you did.
  32. 1 point
    Now that this forum is dead it can finally be our safe space from noobs and poors. Rather than pooping on them via digital harassment, we can be rid of them. We won the long game, bois!
  33. 1 point
    Glad I got grandfathered in with the exclusive Off Topic Access License. Wouldn't wanna miss this quality content.
  34. 1 point
    Just sad the flash chat client doesn't work anymore TBH. Admin pls fix.
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
  37. 1 point
    <AT>airborne101 how long do you think?
  38. 1 point
    Over/under on how long it takes anyone else to notice this thread exists? I give it a week.
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
    It seems no matter what brand or model one thing is universal. All boxmags feed terribad and suck. Aftermarket solutions are far and few with most just being the same thing copied over and over again with the same faults and issues sometimes even worsened. "I'm here to change that" This started out as a quest to make a "remote feeder" for a HPA pistol. Introduced the idea to some people and many came asking for a feeder to their LMG, and from there it evolved... Long story short, I 3D model stuff and 3D print stuff. So, I modeled a feeding-system, based on a system in a gun from nearly 30 years ago and referred by many as one of the most horrible guns to work on, ever... The TOP M60. AEG LMG without an actual gearbox. Let that sink in for a while. To the point. That gun "direct feeds" as there is no "hi-cap" inside or even an actual magazine, you just open the top-cover and pour the BBs in. Gravity feeds them the intake and from the the axle of the motor runs a geared "wheel" that feeds the BBs in to the gun. Its actually not as simple as it sounds. But it could be. First issue for many LMGs is that the feeder is too weak. Almost all rely on regular "hi-caps" that weak motors wind thru several gears. Next is the "vertical" mounting of the units such as the basic M249 big-box where the feeder takes 2/3 of the space and last but not least, the jamming. Mostly due to all other of forementioned. How to fix the universe? I'm with Thanos on this one but how to fix the magazine takes a few steps. One is horizontal mounting. TOP M60 did it first, but many are more familiar with the MAG M249 "small box" magazine. The winding wheel is in the bottom "floor" of the magazine leaving lots of space and area where the BBs fall into the feed-wheel. Second is moar powah! A proper 12v, or in our case a 11.1v lipo run system. This is where the MAG failed as they, and many others use RC servos. They are very slow, even the faster ones and quite brittle if not metal-geared. Bigger servo is just wasted space and properly geared the price jumps. They ar not "meant" to be driven long times. Third is the hi-cap spring. It has its perks but lot of issues too. They need a "delayer" or the spring reverses when over-spinning on empty and snaps soon after. The springs decay over time and are quite weak to begin with. Also, bloody cuts on fingers when they get loose. My system combines all 3 fixes. Its a horizontal mounted unit with plenty of space, its driven by geared 12v motor and has no winding spring. "So, how does it have tension to feed first BBs?" If your gun has its piston already "at the back" and ready to, the BB has already been chambered. If not, the magazine will have enough time to run the chamber-cycle before the shot. Obviously the magazine will need to run as you shoot. The feeding tube "spring" most guns use also stretches a tiny bit. Thats enough tension to chamber 2-4 BBs without winding the unit. "What about over-feeding?" Where the winding-spring used to be now houses a mechanism similar to the original spring when it starts to "skip" fully winded. This just starts to skip at when the winding wheel can no longer spin. My rallye-driver english fails me here, I don't know the proper term for it. The torque it can take can be adjusted fairly easy if needed. 3D printed and designed to fit the original M249 magazine. Most "box mags" are not much smaller than that. Some drums might not fit this but I would say AK drums could. The base-plate can be sized up to a size of the bottom of any magazine if I just had the correct numbers. Till then its gonna need some tinkering or give me some numbers. This particular unit is not very well suited for the original remote pistol-feeder but it has been built with the idea of a backpack or "murderbox" in mind. The metal spring used to feed rounds thru starts to make lot of friction once it gets 50cm+ and then the winding spring simply isnt enough to push the BBs thru. PTFE hose can help, but only a bit as the BBs really do start to have considorable weight. This fella can feed "over the shoulder" from a backpack. The light blue part is the output for the BBs. Its meant to fit the feed-spring but if need be I can increase the bore to fit a 9mm OD, 7mm ID size PTFE tube for those murderboxes. Connectors to and from the hose or spring can be made easily of need be. There are 3 operational units built and all tested. What I need now is some quinea pigs to test these in the field. Anyone? 😉 What I need from you is some DIY skills to modify this into an existing magazine, OR measurements of your magazine. Most likely it will need some dremel-work still. If possible, access to a 3D printer incase parts need to be re-made or altered. Price will be 50€ + shipping. Shipping to US was 15€ so around that is to be expected. I'l upload some videos later... EDIT1: Pic posted. Ordered some more motors. ETA... Umm... Well, roughly couple weeks. Maybe.
  41. 1 point
    Alright and on that not...Hop-Up is back spin. It's doesn't have anything to do with FPS...just as a clarifying point.
  42. 1 point
    Yeah. Springs are around $20 or less. It requires basic mechanical ability and opening up the gearbox. There are plenty of videos on youtube showcasing how to do this.
  43. 1 point
    Thank you. That's actually one I was thinking about but wasn't sure of quality of company. Now I am leaning a little harder at it lol
  44. 1 point
    In my opinion, if I were in a situation like that, I would probably get it. If you choose on getting it, you should most likely tell your parents and say that you are going to be responsible with it and you take proper safety precautions. When I first got into Airsoft, my parents were against it. (Mostly my Mum but still.) But I convinced them by saying I will responsible with them and will atleast try to take every safety precaution I can. But don't only make your decision on my opinion, since mine can be biased at times and your parents might be different to this than mine did. Best of luck, auto
  45. 1 point
    This guide of mine used to be on another forum that is long gone. I am new to this forum, however many may know me from some old forums. Been teching for nearly 10 years. I hope this is an appropriate section for this guide. It will have to be broken down into multiple posts to get it all here. Please forgive me for triple posting, I had to to get the entire guide in. I used to keep this guide stashed away, but realized it needed to be public knowledge once again. It might not be bad to sticky this guide, while old school, it's the poor man's hair trigger without needing a 150 dollar trigger board. This is my personal hair trigger guide. It is more in depth than a typical guide, so I made the guide its own thread. I decided to make this because the old stickied hair guide has dead photos and isn't as in depth as this one. This guide is ONLY intended for a TM based V2 gearbox shell with a V2 based trigger assembly. I however assume the same principles can be adapted to work on other versions with a little bit of thought. This is a guide to HELP you make a hair trigger, you must already know how to use some basic tools and know how to open up a gearbox without killing yourself with the spring guide. I will not be accepting gearboxes to work on, do it yourself, that's what teching is about. If you cant work on your own gear your in the wrong hobby. I won't be holding anyone's hand to walk them through this guide other then the guide itself. Also please don't go full grammar nazi on this thread post. Don't quote the entire 3500 word thread post 9 times to point out every single typo, misspelled word or any detail I missed, please just PM me on here and ill fix it. I'm sure I messed up something on this massive thread. If you need any simple help or want to add something to this guide just PM me, don't reply it here. General questions and comments are welcomed. Now to the fun stuff and the start of the guide. I unfortunately also have to explain how semi works in detail since many newer techs may not know (I didn't know for a long time). By providing this info it should help some understand semi auto in a AEG, If you clearly understand how it functions you should be able to get the gist of how the hair trigger modification works. But first I will state some terminology by me that will be used here to help you understand what the heck I'm talking about. The terminology I have added below is to help describe certain sections of parts of which may be modified or that are very important to this mod. Don't worry I have attached photos at the end of the thread. Oddball Terminology List - cutoff lever sear: The section of the cut of lever that pushes the trolley sear up to slip it off the trigger sear, which resets the trolley back. Trolley: The piece inside the trigger assembly that holds the conductor contact bar, it interacts with the trigger sear and cut of lever sear. Trolley cutoff sear: The plastic section of the trolley that interacts with the cutoff lever sear, in this guide it will be replaced by a pin. So expect the term "trolley cutoff pin" to replace this term later on. Trigger sear: The top of the trigger that interacts with the trolley to push it forward until the trolley is kicked up by the cutoff lever to reset. Trolley reset pin/post: The pin/post (typically casted and part of the left side of the gearbox which often breaks off in stock guns) that stops the trolley when it resets back from being kicked off the trigger sear by the cutoff lever sear. The hair trigger mod will greatly reduce stress on this pin/post if done properly. Sector cam: The cam that pushes back of the cutoff lever. How semi auto works on a AEG (almost all types). I will also explain how auto bypasses this system. The trigger is pulled forcing the trigger sear to start pushing the trolley forward, the trolley cutoff sear then goes ABOVE the cutoff lever sear, (this MUST happen before the trigger contacts touch or it will fire auto for a moment!). Shorty after the trolley is pushed into the trigger contacts. Once the sector gear has released (or is about to release) the piston the sector cam hits the cut off lever, which then the sear of the cutoff lever pushes up the trolley cutoff sear high enough that the back of the trolley slips off the trigger sear and slams back into the trolley reset pin. This cuts power and the cycle is complete. For auto, the selector plate is pulled back from the selector switch, decompressing the selector plate spring and pulls the cutoff lever above the trolley reset sear. Preventing it from pushing the trolley sear up when it moves forward from the trigger pull. Tools/parts you will need. - Airsoft AEG with V2 gearbox and V2 trigger assembly. You must have decent trigger response already. - All the tools to take down the airsoft gun and gearbox your working on. - Easy cheap to replace trigger contacts (SHS) Not any with super sort trigger contacts. Just in case you screw up. - Dremel with 1 inch grinding cutting disk (you'll need a few) head and thick grinding disk head. - Eye protection, If you do not have any you shouldn't be playing airsoft lol. - Battery, not a high discharge rating one unless your careful to not short anything out. (for safety reasons). For those with mosfets don't use too low of a voltage or you can harm your mosfet. - Volt meter or motor or 12v led. - Small flashlight. No not your super bright 1500 lumen CREE one, you'll end up blind. - 6/32 tap, No.36 drill bit or a tad smaller, a few 6/32 screws with FLAT HEADS. This screw has a lot of surface area to its threads for its size and typically works the best. You have to decide what metal for the screw you want to use, because later you will have to grind down the head of the screw to about 1.5mm and still have some material left to be able to pull the screw back out if needed after heating the thread lock. - Mid strength thread lock, No high temp resistant stuff ! - Good grease removing soap (dish soap) and your siblings tooth brush. - Gear grease. - Dark sharpie marker. - Drill or drill press. Must be able to drill a perfectish 90 degree hole. Optional but preferred. - Hand file and sand paper. - Retro Arms trigger. (will cut down time to do the mod a bit and you must have a nice trigger if you're going to be doing a awesome hair trigger...) Alright now I will begin the steps to do the mod. Please read the entire step before physically doing the step. Step 1: First you MUST remove most the slack between the trigger sear and trolley. Put the trigger in with the whole trigger assembly (with the trolley spring in) WITHOUT the trigger spring. Gently move the trigger back and forth. There will most likely be some wasted slack in the trigger pull that needs to be reduced. If by some dumb luck your trigger sear has about .5mm slack before hitting the trolley continue to step 2. If you are using a older Retro Arms trigger (or a rare handful of other triggers combined with certain trolleys) you may find that it's so far forward and tall that the trolley can't go back far enough to catch onto the sear to reset. It that is your case hand file the FRONT of the trigger sear (see image #1 I used a retro arms one) until you have about .5mm slack between them. You must have some slack to ensure the trolley is fully reset! Now for those with the stock triggers with tons of slack, You have many options to reduce this slack. Keep in mind LATER on you will want to sand the top of the trigger sear down shorter since it won't be pushing the trolley as far and doesn't need that extra height to push that far. I will list two ways below for those who have trigger slack between the trigger sear and trolley, a easy way and a harder way, read both. For those using Speed brand triggers (skip this paragraph if your not) you have a grub screw that you can one of two things with: to reduce this slack OR to set the maximum travel distance IN reinforced gearboxes with the extra lip (using a long screw and sanding it to set both will also work), for regular gearboxes without the lip you will need to still do step 3 and you will use the grub screw to reduce the slack. (see image #2) - (easy) Sand the back of the trolley (surface that is closer to the sector gear) until the slack is ALMOST gone, the trigger sear will then almost touch the bottom edge of the trolley where the notch is, however don't remove too much or the sear of the trigger sear will slip behind the trolley (like the retro arms triggers do out of the box). Be sure to use a weaker or pre-stretched trolley spring to prevent breaking your trolley reset post/pin in the long run. It must still be strong enough to reset the trolley back with the trigger sear under it. - (Best way, harder) First off some gearbox shells have a legit steel pin, if you have slack and have one of these reinforced pins already, use the "easy" method directly above. For others you must replace the stock trolley reset post with a screw after drilling and tapping the hole. Try to use a screw that is about the same size as the stock trolley reset post, and try to place it in the same spot. Once you have the screw in sand/dremel the edge of the screw until the trigger sear touches the trolley notch. Do not try to place the screw too far left or high or it will touch the cutoff lever and cause issues, if you did by accident take the cutoff lever and dremel out some material so that the cut off lever sits horizontal to the gearbox shell . Leaving the threads on the screw where the trolley hits WILL eat away the plastic within 10k rounds! (learned that the hard way.) I ended up doing a combination of both methods for my AEG's. Step 2: Cut out a slot on the top/back of the trolley to allow more space for the spring, this will smooth things out and prevent the trolley from hopping over the trolley reset pin/post. Later on shortening the trigger sear will also help prevent this. Don't shorten the trigger sear just yet... Step 3: Trigger maximum travel distance. The trigger MUST have a screw to stop it early for it to be a hair trigger (duh) "Reinforced gearboxes" have a perfect spot with a lip that is meant to stop the trigger at a longer pull (see image #2 note that photo shows the screw and trigger already in). If you don't have that lip you will still be placing the screw in the same place. First dremel the head of a 6/32 screw so it's about 1.5mm thick then dremel a deeper slot for a flat head screw driver to fit into. If the head of the screw is too thick it will hit inside the lower receiver pushing your entire gearbox over (be sure to check this after you place the screw in). Drill a hole with a No.36 drill bit against the lip or in the same spot then tap the hole with a 6/32 tap, You want it to be a super short trigger pull for now, the back arm of the trigger should now almost touch the screw or even be in the way a bit. Tighten the screw as if your leaving it in (not so tight that you can't get it out...), no thread lock yet. If your screw is too long you will have to cut it down or it will go too far into the gearbox. You will soon be removing material off of the screw to set the maximum pull distance. Use the sharpie and mark where the back arm of the trigger hits the screw (see image #2), take out the screw, file/dremel off material until you achieve your desired trigger pull (see image #3). While setting your trigger pull consider this, the shorter the trigger pull, the harder it will be to set in the next few steps. I recommend not setting a trigger pull too short that you accidentally hit the trigger too fast and end up not completing full cycles, thus causing semi dead zone lockups more often. You must now use the soap+water and toothbrush to clean the gearbox shell from any metal fragments/dust/shreds. Dry it well and regrease any friction spots. It should now look something like Image #3 Remember to use thread lock when you finally put the gearbox together and know it's working fine, you can always take it out even when the gearbox is shut to do this. if you NEED it out heat up the screw to weaken the thread lock and use a nice screw driver or impact drill to remove it, don't strip the head! Step 4: Placing the trolley sear pin. This is the hardest part about this mod, You may ruin a trolley forcing you to do step 1 and 2 again if you half-:censored2: this step. This step requires a keen eye and a lot of focus. (See image #4) You soon must place a pin that is closer to the cutoff lever sear then the normal plastic sear. You essentially want it set to when the trigger is pulled that the pin IMEADTIATLY goes over the cutoff lever sear before the trigger contacts touch (see image #5) (next step will help with setting trigger contacts). Now to give yourself some room for error you'll want to use a pin a bit bigger then you'll need. You'll end up removing a tiny section of the plastic trolley sear and drilling a hole through the trolley at that spot and out the other side, Yes you may hit the metal bar inside the trolley that is the conductor for the contacts, use a sharp drill bit and oil it. (drill press really helps here). You want the hole a TINY bit smaller than your pin your using. (use a narrow nail as the pin OR a drill and tapped TINY threaded screw then cut the head off). If you using a pin rough it up and push it through with some thread lock, same if you use the screw thread lock it too. Once it's in place you must then make the end of the metal pin flush with the old plastic trolley sear remaining on the trolley (via dremel see image #4). And on the other side it must be flush to the plastic (via dremel again). Now take your dremel with a grinding cutting disk and make the disk smaller via grinding rock/metal and THEN shape the BOTTOM of the pin to be flush with the old plastic sear. Why would someone make the cutting disk smaller? Because if it's too big it hits the back of the trolley ruining it... learned that the hard way. Now that this is done put only this list of parts in: cutoff lever, selector plate and selector spring, trolley and trolley spring, trigger contact assembly, trigger and trigger spring. Close the gearbox, look down inside the gearbox like Image #5 You will see the two sears touching each other, hopefully they are too close and prevent you from switching the cut off lever up into auto via pulling back the selector plate (with trigger NOT pulled). Now you must go back in and remove material from either the cutoff lever sear or the trolley pin sear until the cutoff lever sear clears the pin when you switch to auto. try to make the edge of the pin and cutoff lever sharp so you don't get semi lock ups often (see image #4). You want the sears to BARELY clear each other! Now install the sector gear and close it back up. Make sure the selector plate is forward so that the cut off lever is down and ready. Pull the trigger a TINY bit, You should see the trolley pin sear (image #5) overlapping the cutoff lever sear almost immediately. Now rotate the sector gear a cycle, it will most likely bump the trolley up a little BUT not enough to kick it off the trolley sear, try this with the trigger all the way pulled. Don't freak out if it doesn't cut off yet. Step 6 is essential to this. Also don't try to lower the pin to try to make it cut off sooner, I won't explain what happens if you do atm, just don't it won't end up well. Step 5: Step removed. Step 6: Shortening the trigger sear JUST ENOUGH. Understand this, the trigger sear is no longer pushing the trolley as far, so more of the trigger sear is in contact with the trolley as the cutoff lever is trying to push the trolley up. Now if you skipped this step, your trolley could kick over your trolley reset pin/post requiring a full take down of the gearbox to fix, and it would pinch your trolley spring against your tappet if you didn't do step 2. So essentially in this step you want the trigger sear edge to just hang onto the trolley by like .3mm or so when the trigger is pulled to its maximum travel distance, sand/file the top of the trigger sear until this condition is met (don't make the edge too sharp it will wear the plastic off the bottom of the trolley over time). Keep in mind sanding too much off will cause the trigger to slip when pulled all the way EVEN without the cutoff lever touching the trolley pin sear, requiring another exact trigger and a re-try. Doing this all correctly makes it so when the cut off lever sear hits your new trolley pin sear, it kicks the trolley off the trigger sear with and back into its reset with MINIMAL uplift (this helps prevent some overspin as it cuts off faster). This is another reason why some remove material was removed from the back of the trolley for the spring slot; to prevent the spring from leveraging the trolley down making it less smooth. The trolley is being kicked up sooner than before and that's why this step was important in many ways. You should now be able to now push the selector into semi mode, pull the trigger almost any amount, roll the sector over a cycle and the cutoff lever should kick that trolley right over and reset it. Step 7: Setting the trigger contacts. Now that your almost done, I can tell you that you have finished all the stressful parts. Now you must bend the end of the trigger contacts (see image #6) so that when the trolley pin sear overlaps the cutoff lever sear (see image #5 again if you need too) ENOUGH that it catches reliably and doesn't slip. Now here's something that will help. Solder your wires to the trigger contact assembly properly , technically you never needed to remove the wires from the trigger assembly. Hook a volt meter or a cheap motor or ANY way you can know you have power to the motor power wires. Now hook up a battery as if your powering the gearbox, You must now bend those trigger contacts until they power on at the end of the trigger pull after the trolley/cutoff sears overlap. Make sure the ends of the trigger contacts are not perfectly strait as they could snag the edges of the trolley after they slide onto the conductor bar in the trolley. If they are too short then a longer conductor will have to be placed into the trolley or longer contacts. I should also add some use a micro switch for this function but they can be crushed and break. PHOTOS LISTED HERE: http://imgur.com/gallery/fkXtwwc They have their reference numbers in the photos. #4 photo: Note the material removed around the pin. #5 photo: You can see the cut off lever sear and trolley pin sear better in person. You will be able to see it at this angle. Congrats. You should now have a fully functional hair trigger on your AEG. Troubleshooting section will be added later on. I may also add more photos later on. I have been using this gearbox for months mostly in semi, probably 80k rounds with only minor wear on the back of the trolley. Other then that the mod is solid. If you'd like to see a gearbox I did this mod in click this link for specs and a photo of the finished mechbox. https://www.instagram.com/p/B3IxBBEnzj4/?igshid=18xtqxwjladsc Again you can do this mod to any mechbox with a direct trigger, v3 shells have a two piece trigger, which makes it nearly impossible to do this mod unless your detailed.
  46. 1 point
    ::EDIT:: You will have better luck getting answers in the Upgrades/Modifications subforum: https://www.airsoftforum.com/forum/89-upgrades-amp-modifications/ I have no idea if this works, so proceed at your own risk, but I recall hearing someone either swapping out a GBB recoil spring for a weaker, less stiff spring to allow harder blowback or they took a match/bunsen burner to a small part of the middle of the spring to weaken it. Not sure if that’s even an option for your model, mind you.
  47. 1 point
    I've been on a nostalgia kick this week. First, I rediscovered Arnie's and all the quality information therein. Now I'm back here after somehow successfully guessing my password. I joined this forum nearly 15 years ago. Since then, I finished high school, enlisted, went to Iraq, came back, went to college, got an engineering degree, and now am working full time. No wife and kids to compete for my time, so I find myself playing at Ballahack Airsoft (in Virginia) every weekend, just as I have for the past 10 years. It's funny. I'm not a very nostalgic person, but I sometimes pine for the simple days. Back before impressions dictated all my equipment purchases and owning a machine gun was a pipe dream. Back when the "ultimate in firepower" was a KWA Mac 11 with a spare mag. I wish forums would make a comeback. Facebook sucks for finding old, useful information.
  48. 1 point
    Anything made by WELL is NOT Recommended, ever. In Airsoft you get what you pay for and if something is that cheap...its a pile of junk,.
  49. 1 point
    time to add my nerdy speculation: I beleive that what this does is that by adding weight to the piston, it adds energy in the most critical part of the piston stroke. let me explain: when the piston is all the way back, the spring is applying the most force, while air pressure (ahead of the piston) is applying the least force. when the spring decompresses, the amount of force it is applying decreases, and the inertia of the piston as well as the air pressure increase. if you have a light piston, it will not conserve it's momentum against that air pressure as well as a heavier piston. though the heavier piston will not reach a higher velocity, it will have a greater mean velocity than the lighter piston, meaning that it will impart a smoother, (possibly stronger) amount of air pressure to the bb. of course, this is all speculation...
  50. 1 point
    no, I think it'd be amazingly stupid. It's like a simulation of a simulation. Games are for doing stuff you can't do in real life...like killing people.


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