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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/29/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Before you go mod crazy...it uses core components from the G Series. With that...most parts don't improve performance. Gas Valves for Mags - BS Upgrade. Barrel - Not really upgrades unless you go longer than stock. Being that this is a GAS gun. Tighter bore on such a short barrel is an unnecessary upgrade. The simplest improvement you can make for range and accuracy is swapping to a Crazy Jet Barrel, use the MR Type VSR Packing and then shoot heavy bbs.
  2. 1 point
    Your light shines no matter which direction you face. You extend a piece of your spirit wherever you go, and you also leave a part of it behind. Let your light shine inward as well as outward, so that what you do offer of yourself might be a beacon to others while also illuminating your own path.
  3. 1 point
    Your way overspending for parts that are not made to a standard and is sold for less in a set that is already built out as an AEG. https://www.evike.com/products/11406/ LION are inferior for Airsoft use...do not use them in Airsoft. Especially for a pack that is 80.00...and is distributed by Titan. On Airsoft Society (where all the ASF users went went this forum went down 2 years ago and never came back) we diseected their packs and found them underperforming for they hype they use to fleece new players.
  4. 1 point
    That would work as well as a V3 Wire kit that goes out the rear.
  5. 1 point
    Maker and Replica Model of you Bolt Action Rifle will help. With out that measuring the mag really doesn't help, since there are more proprietary variations now than say 15 years ago. https://www.google.com/search?q=l96+magazine+airsoft&rlz=1C1CAFC_enUS835US835&sxsrf=ALeKk00x243cbuIE55ndPfCpOALAlmuXpg:1609772424330&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjxqJXMxYLuAhVAGFkFHdg6BP4Q_AUoAnoECAgQBA&biw=1756&bih=816 Two on this search looks like your mag...AGM
  6. 1 point
    If your AEG is under the field limit. Do this from simplest to hardest. Swap to a better voltage battery. What are you using now? Swap out motor to HS motor. Change the gear set, but since your new and this seems to be your only AEG. DO NOT do this. In this video at 2:00 mark. The AEG is using a battery supplying 8.2V under load and feeding a 45,000RPM motor. It's hitting 25 rounds per second and the mechbox is in stock form.
  7. 1 point
    That is a "Max" rating. And the link has this note: "This is a very high current battery, but the 35A rating might be a bit optimistic." Continuous is the more important factor in Airsoft and that is usually 1/2 of the max rating, which put's it around 17.5A of which your 18650 is like "most" other 2500mah cells...it's at it's operational maximum and not the best for Airsoft with a "stock" gun...now that you are looking to install a M130. That cell is going to struggle in FA fire. And the graph shows it...under a normal AEG discharge of 15A. The voltage is sagging very hard at an average 3.3V per cell. Most LIPO...won't even sweat it at that rate and is at 4.0V per cell. And at 20A for the M130, let's say...it drops another .15V on average...that is horrendious.
  8. 1 point
    For your fields: https://www.google.com/search?q=Columbus+Ohio+Airsoft+field&rlz=1C1CAFC_enUS835US835&oq=Columbus+Ohio+Airsoft+field&aqs=chrome..69i57j0.5214j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 You have 3 it seems. At the 200 price point you have options. What platform appeals to you?
  9. 1 point
    Supplies for this type of item is minimal to none. Market is just not there to make TBB's for AEP's, plus your short barrel and it being a compression gun and not a gas gun a TBB will not help much. You may gain 2fps with a barrel swap. I would recommend a gas sidearm for your MED needs...not an AEP.
  10. 1 point
    You will spend the price of the GBB 2 times over buying parts that is not really going to help you. Are you in the EU? First off some nomenclature needs to be clarified. Stretching a slide? Slides don't stretch...its a solid piece of metal. I think you are referring to "racking" the slide? A 17/19 hammer group will not work with a 18C fire control group. They Do Not Line up with out "modification". The SA to FA fire issue is most likely due to a worn disconnector. Silicone OIL is useless in modern Airsoft. You need light grease or heavy oil to keep you GBBP in perfect running condition. Stronger recoil spring will cause other issues if installed. GBBP are whole functioning system. You need to understand that if you change a part here. How does that affect the operation as a whole. Posting pictures will help describe your issues better than your descriptions. Can you post useful pictures of the internal interface between upper and lower?
  11. 1 point
    Correct. Green Gas is bottled with no standards at all, much like the majority of the industry. I worked with some of the USA bottlers and they just let the "crap" flush into the GG tanks. We have found solvent, water, rust particles and improper levels of silicone oil in various GG gases. You can get the Propane Canisters any where there they sell Propane, hardware stores, Lowes, Target, Walmart, many places. It's not that hard to find. They are sold under common names like Bernzomatic, Coleman, Worthington....etc. Adapters are sold on airsoft sites or ebay. Plus when temps get cooler, run a higher pressure organics, Propene. When it gets hot, run R152 duster gas to keep the operating pressure around 115psi. DO NOT put any silicone oil in the gas. If anyone tells you to do this...they are ignorant of the facts of oil in the gas. Back in the 1990's sure...but not in modern Airsoft. As to which one...that is Up To You. You asked for a 1911...get the "1911" the closest to matching what you want to replicate. Got a Classic 1911...get the 1911A1, more modernized in the MKII, get the MKII...etc.
  12. 1 point
    Get a KWA PTP 1911. They are certified for this... https://store.kwausa.com/product-category/gun-type/pistols/ DO NOT put oil in the mag. This is detrimental to KWA seals and the industry is too dumb to realize this. Dry propane is all you need and regular gun grease for the rails.
  13. 1 point
    US players has gone to the tether...Asia left the tether 30 years for it's lack of "realism". Thus with that, it's all personal choice now. Get what appeals to you. However, Tippmann is not highly supported. Items in stock now...get it while you can...plus all the cool new tech developed for AEG...not always available for Tippmann or easily adaptable. Sure...you have FPS consistency...but the guy with a ML MR hop-up will out range you by 10 yards. And when he needs to he can hand the gun off to a teammate and does a door breach with a flash light and a pistol. Mean while the tether guys has to play a supporting role...because they can't get "skinny". But, that is an extreme example at a Scenario op that lasted 2 days at an old sanatorium
  14. 1 point
    This is not indicative of any E&L. You may have a bad batch of bbs. SA bbs are rebrands. Can you find a factory brand, say G&G, KSC, BLS? Do yo have a caliper?
  15. 1 point
    Sounds more like your charging/cocking arm broke. You should be using silicone spray as a lubricant (the industry is wrong on this BTW...). You should be using a heavy oil or a light grease. As for disassembly, I cannot assist. You might want to pose this question on Airsoft Society for when ASF went down...the flock went there and to Arnies.
  16. 1 point
    Talk to July_Pi on his Custom GBB Thread
  17. 1 point
    I do....I am very astute and watchful of the battery makers. Sadly...90% of the player base doesn't know a good battery from a bad one and then on top of that they over pay by 250% for a bad battery when they could have had a better battery for less.
  18. 1 point
    If you're looking for a more skirmishable subgun, I highly recommend the Avalon MP5. The only upgrade needed out of the box is a 22TPA high torque motor for crisp semiauto trigger response. I'm a big fan of mine.
  19. 1 point
    You mentioned you wanted a REAL MP5...if you shoot people with that....what happens...get it? Versus a GAS Airsoft ...which you can own with 4 spare mags for about $800.00....and you can "shoot" people with it...on a sanctioned event of course.
  20. 1 point
    If you want to learn...Do... Not...Learn...On...Your...Primary....AEG. Do it with a boneyard AEG. Season over season, at the game field, some "new guy" tech'd on their one and only AEG. It really did nothing to improve the thing with parts and it let's go after 200 rounds due to a New Tech Mistake...
  21. 1 point
    Get the VFC MP5 Gas SMG with the steel receivers. Won't have to worry about shooting people with that item... And remember this is Airsoft. What the BB dispenser looks like has absolutely no bearing on it's performance capability.
  22. 1 point
    For Society, you need to create an account and then wait for approval. Usually takes 1-2 days. MP5 - V2 Mechbox, stock is already 250mm MP5K - V3 Mechbox, stock is only 120mm
  23. 1 point
    It's all Fluid Dynamics and the Pressure Wave. Think Spit Ball Fight. Who has more range? The guy with 4" straw or the guy with the 10" straw. So, to get more speed you need the bb to ride the pressure wave longer. So...that requires a longer barrel. Get the barrel out to 250mm (Double stock K length) and you can make it to 400fps with out making your AEG run exponentially harder. As for me...I left this site too when it went down over a year ago. Most people went to Society to continue the discussions about Airsoft. I was contact back here on a question a few months back and I came back to answer it....not I just check in to help those that need it.
  24. 1 point
    There is quite a bit you need to learn. Ease of upgrade is a relative issue. Not everyone is capable of upgrading mechboxes. Parts don't just drop in and "work". Many aftermarket parts Are NOT Upgrades. American Consumerism does NOT apply to Airsoft. ARP is not a conventionally built AEG. It's actually a 400FPS AEG that has it's FPS neutered by the short barrel. Put a 365mm barrel in an off the shelf ARP9 and it will shoot 400fps. G&G Built this AEG this way for one reason...durability and prevention of PME. The G35 is an Original Korean Detonator, TM Upper and WE lower. Hop-Up is TM Stock with a Maple Leaf Super Packing at 50 Degrees. BBs are coarse type at .28g. High Polish is Not good. ^All this is physics. Magnus Effect Fluid Dynamics Pressure Waves - Physics (AEG Mechbox) Ideal Gas Law - PV=nRT and gas Expansion - Physics (G35) Know this and you can tune "any" 6mm bb dispenser to be "Unreal". And don't buy those O-Ring Nozzle...either...waste of money.
  25. 1 point
    MP5 All Varinats use a V2. - A1-A5, SD4-SD5, RIS RAS. J Spec...etc. MP5K, all variants uses a V3 - K, PDW, etc. Gears are universal between the two...but V3 parts are not hard to find either.
  26. 1 point
    Any Airsoft gun can be put into the hands a "beginner". As a matter of fact I shoot more "rich" kids with expensive AEG's with my pistol at about the same rate as my AEG...why...because they lack any type of skill. If you want a trouble free 'starter" AEG. Get anything made by a branded house. G&G, ICS, VFC, G&P...etc. Distributor Rebrands like Valken, Lancer Tactical, are less "ideal" for new players for they are batch made at the lowest cost factory found. Big Box AEG's are also bad due to those items made a really low price point...most are 40.00 wholesale btw... Best gun for a beginner IMHO is a used one from a reputable player. You get something more at less than retail price.
  27. 1 point
    We "all" shoot the 6mm ball. What the dispenser looks like has absolutely no bearing on ballistics. For example I have a Glock 35 replica with a 7" inner barrel. It shoots like an "upgraded" AEG...and some people do "complain" that it's unfair for a "pistol". So...with that get what appeals to you "physically". The ARP is a AR pistol caliber replica....so yes it uses a V2 Mechbox.
  28. 1 point
    I've always used Gorilla Glue, but I've heard Loctite's Adhesive Compound (Cyanoacrylate compound) is better. For example, if I were to glue down sorbothane to a cylinderhead or bushings to a gearbox shell, which of these brands would be better? Which do you use? The reason I ask is because the stock sorbothane/rubber pad that sits on my cylinder head has come off (jamming my gun...). Since I have to glue it on, I want to make sure that I use glue that won't let it come off again. Also, how do I properly surface prep an area to be glued? Just scrub it with rubbing alcohol, or is there more to it? Thanks for the help
  29. 1 point
    SRU has made two poly versions for a Carbine Kit.
  30. 1 point
    Okay...what has happened to you is not "uncommon" for KWA. Let me say this...American Consumerism Does Not Apply to Airsoft. There is no QC in anything, there are no standards to manufacturing. It's a buyer beware market..throw out any expectations you may have about products and we will go from there. So with that, I will tell you what has happened to your KWA products. First off, what brand gas is this? From what I said above about being No QC. This could be a factor in your seal failure. When the gas bottlers bottle the gas. They Do Not Filter the propane. Many impurities gets into the gas. Solvents that they cleaned the tank with from a prior run. Grease, oil, flecks of debris and water, yes water. Plus, the USA Airsoft Industry is rather "stupid", I know...I worked for them and the people that were the Captains of the company wouldn't be able to launch a dingy in a kiddie pool. KWA is an older Taiwanese Airsoft company their seals are "rubber", old rubber, rubber that was not designed to have "solvents" with oil injected into the mags under pressure type old magazine. The very thing that GG is made of, Propane and Oil. Back before 2006, Green Gas was HFC-122 a refrigerant. This did not harm "rubber" seals, nor was it made with oil in the material. However, bring that these are "rubber" seals. They did dry out. Oiling them with Silicone oil does help rejuvenate the seal, but only if there were no impurities in the oil. It doesn't take much to destroy KWA seals. Plus oil in the gas puts oil in places you don't want oil and it doesn't put oil on the places you need oil. With a KWA product, this is highly detrimental...remember they are an old Airsoft company. You need to run Dry Propane, no oil. You need a light grease or a heavy oil and you need to lube the rails, friction points and the hammer group. ^That is the PROPER way of making your KWA's last 20 years. I have one from 1999...still running...albeit it has become a shelf queen. Now...for your leaks. Take a wide mouth clear glass bottle/cup. Fill it with water. Fill a leaky mag and put the base in. Is it leaking from around the bottom base seal or the fill valve. The bubbles will tell you. Base seals are easy to reinforce and reseal. Fill valves, your toast. Unless you have access to really, really small o-rings...the gas/oil most likely ate the rubber. FYI...I have been Airsofting since the 20th Century. I am the last of the Old Rainbow Unicorns that helped bring Airsoft to the USA...that is just my level of experience.
  31. 1 point
    Anything made by WELL is NOT Recommended, ever. In Airsoft you get what you pay for and if something is that cheap...its a pile of junk,.
  32. 1 point
    time to add my nerdy speculation: I beleive that what this does is that by adding weight to the piston, it adds energy in the most critical part of the piston stroke. let me explain: when the piston is all the way back, the spring is applying the most force, while air pressure (ahead of the piston) is applying the least force. when the spring decompresses, the amount of force it is applying decreases, and the inertia of the piston as well as the air pressure increase. if you have a light piston, it will not conserve it's momentum against that air pressure as well as a heavier piston. though the heavier piston will not reach a higher velocity, it will have a greater mean velocity than the lighter piston, meaning that it will impart a smoother, (possibly stronger) amount of air pressure to the bb. of course, this is all speculation...
  33. 1 point
    no, I think it'd be amazingly stupid. It's like a simulation of a simulation. Games are for doing stuff you can't do in real life...like killing people.


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