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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/27/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Before you go mod crazy...it uses core components from the G Series. With that...most parts don't improve performance. Gas Valves for Mags - BS Upgrade. Barrel - Not really upgrades unless you go longer than stock. Being that this is a GAS gun. Tighter bore on such a short barrel is an unnecessary upgrade. The simplest improvement you can make for range and accuracy is swapping to a Crazy Jet Barrel, use the MR Type VSR Packing and then shoot heavy bbs.
  2. 2 points
    You are so 2005... I saw this last Monday.
  3. 1 point
    That is a "Max" rating. And the link has this note: "This is a very high current battery, but the 35A rating might be a bit optimistic." Continuous is the more important factor in Airsoft and that is usually 1/2 of the max rating, which put's it around 17.5A of which your 18650 is like "most" other 2500mah cells...it's at it's operational maximum and not the best for Airsoft with a "stock" gun...now that you are looking to install a M130. That cell is going to struggle in FA fire. And the graph shows it...under a normal AEG discharge of 15A. The voltage is sagging very hard at an average 3.3V per cell. Most LIPO...won't even sweat it at that rate and is at 4.0V per cell. And at 20A for the M130, let's say...it drops another .15V on average...that is horrendious.
  4. 1 point
    Supplies for this type of item is minimal to none. Market is just not there to make TBB's for AEP's, plus your short barrel and it being a compression gun and not a gas gun a TBB will not help much. You may gain 2fps with a barrel swap. I would recommend a gas sidearm for your MED needs...not an AEP.
  5. 1 point
    You will spend the price of the GBB 2 times over buying parts that is not really going to help you. Are you in the EU? First off some nomenclature needs to be clarified. Stretching a slide? Slides don't stretch...its a solid piece of metal. I think you are referring to "racking" the slide? A 17/19 hammer group will not work with a 18C fire control group. They Do Not Line up with out "modification". The SA to FA fire issue is most likely due to a worn disconnector. Silicone OIL is useless in modern Airsoft. You need light grease or heavy oil to keep you GBBP in perfect running condition. Stronger recoil spring will cause other issues if installed. GBBP are whole functioning system. You need to understand that if you change a part here. How does that affect the operation as a whole. Posting pictures will help describe your issues better than your descriptions. Can you post useful pictures of the internal interface between upper and lower?
  6. 1 point
    Correct. Green Gas is bottled with no standards at all, much like the majority of the industry. I worked with some of the USA bottlers and they just let the "crap" flush into the GG tanks. We have found solvent, water, rust particles and improper levels of silicone oil in various GG gases. You can get the Propane Canisters any where there they sell Propane, hardware stores, Lowes, Target, Walmart, many places. It's not that hard to find. They are sold under common names like Bernzomatic, Coleman, Worthington....etc. Adapters are sold on airsoft sites or ebay. Plus when temps get cooler, run a higher pressure organics, Propene. When it gets hot, run R152 duster gas to keep the operating pressure around 115psi. DO NOT put any silicone oil in the gas. If anyone tells you to do this...they are ignorant of the facts of oil in the gas. Back in the 1990's sure...but not in modern Airsoft. As to which one...that is Up To You. You asked for a 1911...get the "1911" the closest to matching what you want to replicate. Got a Classic 1911...get the 1911A1, more modernized in the MKII, get the MKII...etc.
  7. 1 point
    Get a KWA PTP 1911. They are certified for this... https://store.kwausa.com/product-category/gun-type/pistols/ DO NOT put oil in the mag. This is detrimental to KWA seals and the industry is too dumb to realize this. Dry propane is all you need and regular gun grease for the rails.
  8. 1 point
    US players has gone to the tether...Asia left the tether 30 years for it's lack of "realism". Thus with that, it's all personal choice now. Get what appeals to you. However, Tippmann is not highly supported. Items in stock now...get it while you can...plus all the cool new tech developed for AEG...not always available for Tippmann or easily adaptable. Sure...you have FPS consistency...but the guy with a ML MR hop-up will out range you by 10 yards. And when he needs to he can hand the gun off to a teammate and does a door breach with a flash light and a pistol. Mean while the tether guys has to play a supporting role...because they can't get "skinny". But, that is an extreme example at a Scenario op that lasted 2 days at an old sanatorium
  9. 1 point
    This is not indicative of any E&L. You may have a bad batch of bbs. SA bbs are rebrands. Can you find a factory brand, say G&G, KSC, BLS? Do yo have a caliper?
  10. 1 point
    Talk to July_Pi on his Custom GBB Thread
  11. 1 point
    I do....I am very astute and watchful of the battery makers. Sadly...90% of the player base doesn't know a good battery from a bad one and then on top of that they over pay by 250% for a bad battery when they could have had a better battery for less.
  12. 1 point
    If you're looking for a more skirmishable subgun, I highly recommend the Avalon MP5. The only upgrade needed out of the box is a 22TPA high torque motor for crisp semiauto trigger response. I'm a big fan of mine.
  13. 1 point
    You mentioned you wanted a REAL MP5...if you shoot people with that....what happens...get it? Versus a GAS Airsoft ...which you can own with 4 spare mags for about $800.00....and you can "shoot" people with it...on a sanctioned event of course.
  14. 1 point
    If you want to learn...Do... Not...Learn...On...Your...Primary....AEG. Do it with a boneyard AEG. Season over season, at the game field, some "new guy" tech'd on their one and only AEG. It really did nothing to improve the thing with parts and it let's go after 200 rounds due to a New Tech Mistake...
  15. 1 point
    Get the VFC MP5 Gas SMG with the steel receivers. Won't have to worry about shooting people with that item... And remember this is Airsoft. What the BB dispenser looks like has absolutely no bearing on it's performance capability.
  16. 1 point
    For Society, you need to create an account and then wait for approval. Usually takes 1-2 days. MP5 - V2 Mechbox, stock is already 250mm MP5K - V3 Mechbox, stock is only 120mm
  17. 1 point
    It's all Fluid Dynamics and the Pressure Wave. Think Spit Ball Fight. Who has more range? The guy with 4" straw or the guy with the 10" straw. So, to get more speed you need the bb to ride the pressure wave longer. So...that requires a longer barrel. Get the barrel out to 250mm (Double stock K length) and you can make it to 400fps with out making your AEG run exponentially harder. As for me...I left this site too when it went down over a year ago. Most people went to Society to continue the discussions about Airsoft. I was contact back here on a question a few months back and I came back to answer it....not I just check in to help those that need it.
  18. 1 point
    There is quite a bit you need to learn. Ease of upgrade is a relative issue. Not everyone is capable of upgrading mechboxes. Parts don't just drop in and "work". Many aftermarket parts Are NOT Upgrades. American Consumerism does NOT apply to Airsoft. ARP is not a conventionally built AEG. It's actually a 400FPS AEG that has it's FPS neutered by the short barrel. Put a 365mm barrel in an off the shelf ARP9 and it will shoot 400fps. G&G Built this AEG this way for one reason...durability and prevention of PME. The G35 is an Original Korean Detonator, TM Upper and WE lower. Hop-Up is TM Stock with a Maple Leaf Super Packing at 50 Degrees. BBs are coarse type at .28g. High Polish is Not good. ^All this is physics. Magnus Effect Fluid Dynamics Pressure Waves - Physics (AEG Mechbox) Ideal Gas Law - PV=nRT and gas Expansion - Physics (G35) Know this and you can tune "any" 6mm bb dispenser to be "Unreal". And don't buy those O-Ring Nozzle...either...waste of money.
  19. 1 point
    MP5 All Varinats use a V2. - A1-A5, SD4-SD5, RIS RAS. J Spec...etc. MP5K, all variants uses a V3 - K, PDW, etc. Gears are universal between the two...but V3 parts are not hard to find either.
  20. 1 point
    Any Airsoft gun can be put into the hands a "beginner". As a matter of fact I shoot more "rich" kids with expensive AEG's with my pistol at about the same rate as my AEG...why...because they lack any type of skill. If you want a trouble free 'starter" AEG. Get anything made by a branded house. G&G, ICS, VFC, G&P...etc. Distributor Rebrands like Valken, Lancer Tactical, are less "ideal" for new players for they are batch made at the lowest cost factory found. Big Box AEG's are also bad due to those items made a really low price point...most are 40.00 wholesale btw... Best gun for a beginner IMHO is a used one from a reputable player. You get something more at less than retail price.
  21. 1 point
    We "all" shoot the 6mm ball. What the dispenser looks like has absolutely no bearing on ballistics. For example I have a Glock 35 replica with a 7" inner barrel. It shoots like an "upgraded" AEG...and some people do "complain" that it's unfair for a "pistol". So...with that get what appeals to you "physically". The ARP is a AR pistol caliber replica....so yes it uses a V2 Mechbox.
  22. 1 point
    SRU has made two poly versions for a Carbine Kit.
  23. 1 point
    Okay...what has happened to you is not "uncommon" for KWA. Let me say this...American Consumerism Does Not Apply to Airsoft. There is no QC in anything, there are no standards to manufacturing. It's a buyer beware market..throw out any expectations you may have about products and we will go from there. So with that, I will tell you what has happened to your KWA products. First off, what brand gas is this? From what I said above about being No QC. This could be a factor in your seal failure. When the gas bottlers bottle the gas. They Do Not Filter the propane. Many impurities gets into the gas. Solvents that they cleaned the tank with from a prior run. Grease, oil, flecks of debris and water, yes water. Plus, the USA Airsoft Industry is rather "stupid", I know...I worked for them and the people that were the Captains of the company wouldn't be able to launch a dingy in a kiddie pool. KWA is an older Taiwanese Airsoft company their seals are "rubber", old rubber, rubber that was not designed to have "solvents" with oil injected into the mags under pressure type old magazine. The very thing that GG is made of, Propane and Oil. Back before 2006, Green Gas was HFC-122 a refrigerant. This did not harm "rubber" seals, nor was it made with oil in the material. However, bring that these are "rubber" seals. They did dry out. Oiling them with Silicone oil does help rejuvenate the seal, but only if there were no impurities in the oil. It doesn't take much to destroy KWA seals. Plus oil in the gas puts oil in places you don't want oil and it doesn't put oil on the places you need oil. With a KWA product, this is highly detrimental...remember they are an old Airsoft company. You need to run Dry Propane, no oil. You need a light grease or a heavy oil and you need to lube the rails, friction points and the hammer group. ^That is the PROPER way of making your KWA's last 20 years. I have one from 1999...still running...albeit it has become a shelf queen. Now...for your leaks. Take a wide mouth clear glass bottle/cup. Fill it with water. Fill a leaky mag and put the base in. Is it leaking from around the bottom base seal or the fill valve. The bubbles will tell you. Base seals are easy to reinforce and reseal. Fill valves, your toast. Unless you have access to really, really small o-rings...the gas/oil most likely ate the rubber. FYI...I have been Airsofting since the 20th Century. I am the last of the Old Rainbow Unicorns that helped bring Airsoft to the USA...that is just my level of experience.
  24. 1 point
    Bad shimming...is it shimmed too tight? DId you do a shim test? Shim test involves just the gears only in a buttoned up gear box. You stick your finger in through the cylinder hole and give it a spin. If you get about 2 rotations...your good.
  25. 1 point
    If its a non-load bearing piece...there is no stress. My Deer Pistol has many G&P Milspec parts on it. However, I am not sure if yours is Mil-spec or Com-Spec Quite honestly...sell it as a whole gun and be done with it with some cash in your pocket. If your moving to the US...you can get cheap Airsoft GBBR parts here to put on your AR. Here is a hint....all these AR parts being made. It all comes from China...you can pick up 20.00 Rails...heck..I got a Giessele Rail and the Giessele rep couldn't even tell them apart. I also picked up a VLTOR stock from China too and it Came from China with a VLTOR registration card...with a valid serial number on it that I could register on the VLTOR sitw...for 1/4 of the RS price... And just so you know...they have been doing this since 2006...
  26. 1 point
    mk, Mum told me about 2 weeks ago, that she ordered an airsoft rifle (I was personally putting off the rifle, because ZZ Top/Aerosmith tickets were going on sale) But she gave me the link http://www.airsoftpost.com/version-matrix-...ck-p-27162.html. so I go there, and Im pretty stoked, cause Ive always loved M14's. It arrived three days ago, its an AMAZING rifle, BUT. The mags are pieces of junk. Both mags broke on me in two days (not of missuse, Im VERY carefull with my possessions). I was in a skirmish today, I stayed over at my cousin's last night, and of course brought my new rifle. but when we were sighting in a scope, it stopped shooting, so we wound on the mag a bit, still nothing. We layed the mag aside so we could get to it when we finished sighting in the scope. So we continued our business, when the second mag unwound. By this time, we were extremely puzzeled. Of course you think, brand new rifle, mags, ought to work the second day. so we took apart the mags (my cousin had one, I had the other), and we both found they're EXTREMELY cheaply made. The one that stopped loading correctly, the little nibs on the end of the flywheel (which is plastic, as are ALL OF THE INTERNALLS!!!), had broken, and couldnt be repaired. The other, the spring that kept the wheel that you spin to get the bb's chambered, had come loose. That was an easy fix, but it broke on me several times in the first match, to where I just put down the rifle, and used a gas pistol. So this is the message to those wanting to buy an AGM M14 from Evike, get better mags to go with it. I ordered a couple of mags today from ASGI (by recomendation of a friend) http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?...roducts_id=2531, and my brother uses these mags http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?...roducts_id=2302 in his echo 1. As I said, the gun is fabulous, just the mags that come with it arent good at all.
  27. 1 point
    What wrong with Airsoft and you are going to ask only someone who has only "6-month" of EXP? You are not going to get one that is qualified to answer your initial question accurately. I'll tell you the major issues of what's wrong from 3 decades of experience. 1. Wrong information is passed as the Gospel - People don't think big picture or ask...why is that? 2. Airsofters don't like to be corrected - See number 1. 3. 80% of the parts sold are just stock parts rebranded as an "upgrade" part - SHS (upgrade) and A&K (OEM) come from the same production line, literally. 4. US Distributors do NOT have your best interest in mind. They want to fleece you quick and go after the next newb - Tenergy Products, Silicone Oil 5. No standards in componentry - Most things are not TM compatible any more. 6. Products are made, sold and used due to a defect of "another" part. And then it gets canonized as a necessary upgrade part - bearings on spring guide/piston head and o-ring nozzles. I could think up about 5 or 10 more things...but I get distracted easily on 'What's wrong with Airsoft".
  28. 1 point
  29. 1 point
    Where's <AT>Kavurcen has he turned 13 yet?
  30. 1 point
    I'm gonna Shredder your Concave Space.
  31. 1 point
    Put a Systema bucking on your SCS nub and stick it in my anus daddy
  32. 1 point
    So I should put a Systema bucking and SCS in my G&G Sportline, right?
  33. 1 point
    Actual footage of admin after you did.
  34. 1 point
    Now that this forum is dead it can finally be our safe space from noobs and poors. Rather than pooping on them via digital harassment, we can be rid of them. We won the long game, bois!
  35. 1 point
    Wait, you mean I didn't have to spend $30 on a donation when I registered?! :censored2:!
  36. 1 point
  37. 1 point
    Just sad the flash chat client doesn't work anymore TBH. Admin pls fix.
  38. 1 point
    I'm going to tell all my friends on AOL!
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
    F's in the chat boys
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    Let us do the magical rain dance of ASF mod summons. Mayhaps even the mighty <AT>admin himself may notice the spasms of life from this corpse of an OT forum.
  43. 1 point
    I give it a month.
  44. 1 point
    Over/under on how long it takes anyone else to notice this thread exists? I give it a week.
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
    I used to work for the company that "sold" that BAR. It's a low cost POS made by Well. It sold for 129.00 on average at retail. So that means Factory cost was about 25.00 Toss it...there is a reason why that thing was in the attic.
  47. 1 point
    Down to this point it's all looks. Get what appeals to you.
  48. 1 point
    It seems no matter what brand or model one thing is universal. All boxmags feed terribad and suck. Aftermarket solutions are far and few with most just being the same thing copied over and over again with the same faults and issues sometimes even worsened. "I'm here to change that" This started out as a quest to make a "remote feeder" for a HPA pistol. Introduced the idea to some people and many came asking for a feeder to their LMG, and from there it evolved... Long story short, I 3D model stuff and 3D print stuff. So, I modeled a feeding-system, based on a system in a gun from nearly 30 years ago and referred by many as one of the most horrible guns to work on, ever... The TOP M60. AEG LMG without an actual gearbox. Let that sink in for a while. To the point. That gun "direct feeds" as there is no "hi-cap" inside or even an actual magazine, you just open the top-cover and pour the BBs in. Gravity feeds them the intake and from the the axle of the motor runs a geared "wheel" that feeds the BBs in to the gun. Its actually not as simple as it sounds. But it could be. First issue for many LMGs is that the feeder is too weak. Almost all rely on regular "hi-caps" that weak motors wind thru several gears. Next is the "vertical" mounting of the units such as the basic M249 big-box where the feeder takes 2/3 of the space and last but not least, the jamming. Mostly due to all other of forementioned. How to fix the universe? I'm with Thanos on this one but how to fix the magazine takes a few steps. One is horizontal mounting. TOP M60 did it first, but many are more familiar with the MAG M249 "small box" magazine. The winding wheel is in the bottom "floor" of the magazine leaving lots of space and area where the BBs fall into the feed-wheel. Second is moar powah! A proper 12v, or in our case a 11.1v lipo run system. This is where the MAG failed as they, and many others use RC servos. They are very slow, even the faster ones and quite brittle if not metal-geared. Bigger servo is just wasted space and properly geared the price jumps. They ar not "meant" to be driven long times. Third is the hi-cap spring. It has its perks but lot of issues too. They need a "delayer" or the spring reverses when over-spinning on empty and snaps soon after. The springs decay over time and are quite weak to begin with. Also, bloody cuts on fingers when they get loose. My system combines all 3 fixes. Its a horizontal mounted unit with plenty of space, its driven by geared 12v motor and has no winding spring. "So, how does it have tension to feed first BBs?" If your gun has its piston already "at the back" and ready to, the BB has already been chambered. If not, the magazine will have enough time to run the chamber-cycle before the shot. Obviously the magazine will need to run as you shoot. The feeding tube "spring" most guns use also stretches a tiny bit. Thats enough tension to chamber 2-4 BBs without winding the unit. "What about over-feeding?" Where the winding-spring used to be now houses a mechanism similar to the original spring when it starts to "skip" fully winded. This just starts to skip at when the winding wheel can no longer spin. My rallye-driver english fails me here, I don't know the proper term for it. The torque it can take can be adjusted fairly easy if needed. 3D printed and designed to fit the original M249 magazine. Most "box mags" are not much smaller than that. Some drums might not fit this but I would say AK drums could. The base-plate can be sized up to a size of the bottom of any magazine if I just had the correct numbers. Till then its gonna need some tinkering or give me some numbers. This particular unit is not very well suited for the original remote pistol-feeder but it has been built with the idea of a backpack or "murderbox" in mind. The metal spring used to feed rounds thru starts to make lot of friction once it gets 50cm+ and then the winding spring simply isnt enough to push the BBs thru. PTFE hose can help, but only a bit as the BBs really do start to have considorable weight. This fella can feed "over the shoulder" from a backpack. The light blue part is the output for the BBs. Its meant to fit the feed-spring but if need be I can increase the bore to fit a 9mm OD, 7mm ID size PTFE tube for those murderboxes. Connectors to and from the hose or spring can be made easily of need be. There are 3 operational units built and all tested. What I need now is some quinea pigs to test these in the field. Anyone? 😉 What I need from you is some DIY skills to modify this into an existing magazine, OR measurements of your magazine. Most likely it will need some dremel-work still. If possible, access to a 3D printer incase parts need to be re-made or altered. Price will be 50€ + shipping. Shipping to US was 15€ so around that is to be expected. I'l upload some videos later... EDIT1: Pic posted. Ordered some more motors. ETA... Umm... Well, roughly couple weeks. Maybe.
  49. 1 point
    Yeah. Springs are around $20 or less. It requires basic mechanical ability and opening up the gearbox. There are plenty of videos on youtube showcasing how to do this.
  50. 1 point
    Thank you. That's actually one I was thinking about but wasn't sure of quality of company. Now I am leaning a little harder at it lol

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