Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About kryptik

  • Rank
    I chooses to drive traficks.
  • Birthday 09/23/1990

Contact Methods

  • AIM
  • MSN
  • Website URL
  • Yahoo

Profile Information

  • Location
    Los Angeles, CA
  • Interests
    Cars, Girls, Grass, Music, Hangin, Guitar, Airsoft, Home Theater

Previous Fields

  • Airsoft Replicas Owned
    G&P M4 Special Forces -- >440 Fps (10.8v 3800mah/9.6v 3600mah battery, systema magnum, etc.) + EOtech 552.A65 Rev.F Tokyo Marui G3/SG1 (Now HK21E) - 440 Fps ~28 Rps [10.8v 4/5SC 2200mah battery] **Parallel Mosfet** CA SLR105, bipod, drum magazine. Full Multicam Loadout including Eagle PC, Crye, etc. Old Guns: Toyko Marui G36C --400-410 (@ ~20 RPS) Tokyo Marui P90 - Stock
  1. The silent piston head will actually be a good choice for that setup, as a high speed setup puts a lot more stress on the piston/piston head. Since the silent heads have a depression in the center, it will slightly slow down and cushion the impact of the piston to the cylinder head. You should be fine with that setup. Depends on which gearset you are using. Some gearsets are "true" helical gearsets, needing the helical piston (these include the systema helical super torque and anything above that). The piston has smaller teeth which prevent interference with the gearset. If you run a more common helical gearset, with a standard ratio, you should be able to use a standard piston.
  2. Hasn't changed a bit, I'm thinking of breaking the gun down soon and refurbishing the gearbox, after a year of sitting new grease and a spring would bring it back to life.
  3. Use gun cleaning pads (small 1"x1") used to clean real steel fire arms. Put those on the end of the cleaning rod supplied with your gun, spray some silicone oil (100%) like the others said. Best way in my opinion is to clean the barrel out of the gun, but that isn't the most practical way to do it.
  4. The reason your gun goes fully auto as soon as you hook up the battery is because the gate input on the MOSFET is receiving unswitched voltage. You need to run a small positive wire AFTER the trigger switch that goes to the gate lead. Use a multimeter or test light to figure out which terminal has voltage as soon as the battery is connected (that is going to be the terminal you do not use). Any other questions shoot me a PM.
  5. kryptik


    They work fine and allow you to run a fairly large battery without much modifications. Easiest way to route the wires would be to make a hole in the plate which lies in between the gun body and the stock tube. As long as realism isn't a big concern this is the most practical solution in my opinion, as crane stocks are annoying and the connections between the three rows of cells eventually come apart.
  6. Indeed I still have my G3 as well, never found a buyer. Will still sell.
  7. Price drop to $700 shipped and I will accept offers. I've put not only a LOT of cash into this gun, but I've also put a lot of TIME into building this gun, to make everything work as it should and so on. Thanks for the comments guys.
  8. There is a small spring that hold the cocking lever sideways to the body, that spring isnt there so it wobbles slightly. Does not affect the operation of the gun and is hardly noticeable. Bump.
  9. I am selling this great condition originally-TM G3 SG/1. Externals: It has a very high quality G&G Magnesium receiver that I put on, this item is hard(er) to find, but is higher quality than the CA receiver in my opinion. Along with the receiver it has a CA metal cocking tube, which adds high strength gun and solves the flex issue common on long G3's. Along with that I put on a G&G Magnesium RAS system which cost a good $150-$200 alone. Includes the front RIS grip and metal low-profile scope mount. The rear sight is missing a small screw so it does not stay adjusted, and the front cocking tube lever is missing a small spring so it bounces a tad, but otherwise everything works perfectly. Furthermore I have some aftermarket pins holding the thing together which are much stronger than the stock TM ones. Internals: The internals are what make this gun truly shine. I have custom installed a custom GP 10.8v 2200mah pack using 4/5SC cells, originally made by cheapbatterypacks.com. These cells are out of production now, and are very high quality. There is a Systema Dual MOSFET inside, that allows the 10.8v to run cleanly and efficiently without having to worry about your trigger points burning up. The gun is shooting in the range of 400-420 feet per second, but can handle much more. Parts list: TM EG1000 PDI 170% Spring Prometheus Standard Gears Solid Bushings Guarder Polycarbonate Piston Systema Spring Guide Systema Polycarb Piston Head Systema Metal Cylinder Head Systema Type-0 polished Cylinder Systema Air Nozzle Systema Tappet Plate Systema Spring Set Reshimmed recently and new grease New Silicone Insulator Wiring Deans Connectors Systema Hopup Bucking Systema 6.04mm Tightbore Barrel Systema Dual MOSFET system So essentially the box is built throughout. Pictures: I am selling this gun because I need cash for a new transmission for my Camaro. Otherwise I would definitely have kept it because it is one of the pride and joys of my collection, a long-time project. I am going to ask $750 for it but am willing to go lower, so all offers will be considered. Gun also includes the Battery that was specified earlier and a Hi-Cap magazine (with green magpul). Terms: I will ship the gun via UPS ground unless you request a different shipper/service. I accept paypal. The gun will be sold as is, I am not offering a warranty on it because I cannot be responsible for how you treat it. I can assure you that it operates smoothly and properly. NO Trades please. Contact me via PM or AIM, thanks!
  • Create New...