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buppus

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About buppus

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  • Birthday 12/20/1986

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  • Location
    Buffalo, NY

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  • Airsoft Replicas Owned
    G&G GR-16 Plastica, JG Sig 552, E1 E90
  1. You're right that the TVS is backwards, but the ring-tongue on the drain tab is the proper way to implement the 3034, since the internal connection of the drain pin is very thin and fragile. You should not solder directly to the tab either, because the 3034 is prone to failure upon any internal reflow which would occur if you tried to solder to the drain tab. So besides the TVS being the wrong way around, it's an excellent diagram. Another tip that I can offer since I wrote the guide is that you can use thermal adhesive to bond a bit of aluminum or copper to the back of the 3034 and it can be a very effective heatsink for high-demand setups. Also, never try and make your own AB 'FET unless you're following Terry's SW-Computer designs - the simple AB circuit is dangerous.
  2. Lefse is right, in fact, at 370fps+ you don't even need to short stroke anymore, since in your case I recommended it to burn off some muzzle energy and bring it down for CQB. Full-stroke setups are good up to around 45bps, then if you want higher it's best to go DSG. It's also much easier to attain higher FPS levels on a full-stroke setup, not to mention that you can still use longer barrels (since you've still got full cylinder volume to work with) - HS5 once had a gun shooting 700fps <AT> 40rps - definitely not a CQB weapon...
  3. Good word asesino.. safety first. My E90 runs at 38bps, never had any feeding issues. DSG is not really necessary for 40 bps though.. you could get a HS motor with some 16:1 gears and a nice 11.1v LiPO, and run a short-stroked M120 setup for much cheaper.
  4. Glad you've got good results with the Element, the smoothness is likely just luck - the pinion gear really likes the shimming of your bevel gear :) I've never seen a stock gun come with AoE pre-adjusted, but it's actually pretty common for manufacturers to leave the 2nd tooth off of their piston molds these days - more because it's unnecessary and can cause clearance issues relating to compatibility with upgrade parts, and because they are starting to realize that a lot of people do the AoE mod, so why not save some plastic? I believe the G2010 takes standard v2/3 gears even though it uses a v6 box, you should double check that though. For your purposes, I would just buy some SHS 16:1 gears, it's really only worth it to go Siegetek if you really want to go high speed and high fps. Personally I would personally only go for his 10:1 set, even though there are applications where other sets are appropriate.
  5. That would be me and it's not really disputable.. try running an M150+ on anything but Siegetek highspeed gears. It's not that they're "weaker," it's that the load on the gears is drastically increased because they have to do the same amount of work in significantly fewer motor revolutions, and so they can't reliably pull the same springs that standard ratio gears can. It's the reason lower-ratio torque gears were invented, right? With that said, 400fps is no problem for an SHS 13:1 set. This is mostly true, but personally, under absolutely no circumstances would I suggest that anyone at a beginner (or even some intermediate) level of airsoft tech experience go within 10 miles of a DSG. There are 2 things you need to consider here: 1) you're going for higher speed, and with great speed comes great responsibility ... but seriously, I don't recommend venturing very far beyond 35rps unless you have some good experience under your belt. This is because of the physical forces involved in moving the piston/geartrain at those rates of fire. You'll recall that f=m*a, so as the rotational velocity of the sector gear increases as it's striking the piston each revolution to draw it back, the force curve is not linear... it's parabolic. That is why people correct AoE, swiss-cheese their pistons, ditch ball-bearings, and reinforce their gear racks in high speed setups - to keep the piston or gears from blowing up! 2) yes the motors can run on 14.8v or even 18.5v batteries (as long as your wiring/MOSFET can handle it), but it WILL stress the hell out of that motor and shorten it's life. This is for 2 reasons: 1: We're talking about brushed motors here, so the charring on the brushes and comm will be exaggerated, and 2: Excessive heat kills magnets, and neodymium are particularly vulnerable. Now, it's unlikely that you'll hit the curie point and lose all magnetism, but it's definitely possible to reach up past maximum operating temperatures, at which irreversible losses will occur. How much additional wear and stress depends largely on your usage (don't empty entire mags all at once, etc...) and how strenuous your setup is. Generally, people who know how to take their motor apart to clean it and keep it nice and fresh, and know how to use it such that it's not overly stressful can get away with using batteries like that, but degradation will occur sooner as a result.
  6. mmm.. that's an interesting approach - would be very useful for shallow windows where you don't need to open up the inner channel very much. However, I think it's overall better to open up the inner channel a bit so that the "legs" no longer protrude into the barrel.
  7. People can throw numbers out there, but ultimately this depends on a number of different elements in your setup, the success of which is highly dependent on your install and skill in tuning. Generally an R-hop in a similar setup can be quite accurate out to 200+ feet, and it will most likely better than any other hopup setup you could implement, but there are no guarantees here. I'm certainly not going to inflate your expectations unrealistically based on what some other's have achieved here.
  8. That has been suggested before, but I recall one user who had feeding problems after installing an AUG nozzle. Not having access to a G2010 myself, I can't measure, but it's said to be longer than an M4 nozzle. I hate to just throw out suggestions, but a SIG55X might be the best bet. Best policy would be to measure and compare.
  9. Falcon barrels are not rifled, they are fluted. Rifling is the wrong concept, it cannot work with a spherical projectile because of the Magnus effect. Try this next time you're out plinking or skirming: turn your hop all the way up and take a shot - it should soar up into the air before dropping down again. Now rotate your gun 90 degrees to the side (like a gangsta), look down along the barrel and fire again in the same direction - the BB will curve dramatically to the side instead of up in the air. This is what would happen if you tried to rifle an airosft barrel. As Sasori said, backspin is what keeps the round afloat and extends range to almost twice the distance possible without it. That is the point of hopup.
  10. I concur - you already have a nice setup. You're correct that ideal barrel length is around 455mm, but 370 is long enough to be in the butter zone already; so in real-world performance there would not be much improvement from moving up. The H-nubs are often too large to fit properly in the barrel window, and the concept of 2 points of contact has already been conclusively displaced by strategies like the Flat-hop and R-hop. Read up in the pinned thread on internal tweaks. That said, the Mad Bull bucking might be a good investment - I know I've gotten great results with a Flat hop using a Mad Bull red. As always, the best performance improvements come from "tuning" mods, such as barrel stabilization, air seal mods, and alternate hopup strategies (mentioned above).
  11. Technically it can increase your RoF slightly since it shortens the draw of the piston rack (and therefore releases in less time), but in real-life scenarios the change is normally miniscule, and whether or not it will even be noticeable depends more on the motor's torque curve and power usage characteristics than anything else. The "budget high speed" thread is an interesting case where at very low power levels, his motor benefitted substantially from the slightly-lessened load of a lighter piston with a shorter stroke. This is not a typical result, especially once you move away from pathetic stock batteries and stock motors that have virtually no torque. What's interesting is that if he wanted to compensate for his lost fps with a heavier spring, it's likely that he would have actually lost ground, since the lessened volume of the stroke combined with a relatively equal (perhaps greater) work load from the new spring would be less efficient than leaving things stock - unless perhaps he was working with a shorter barrel... Even so, it's not a good strategy. In general though, Jeri is right - short-stroking just gives protection from pre-engagement, and therefore a higher potential RoF ceiling, and rarely will it actually end up noticeably increasing your ROF. Battery is in 99% of cases the first and best upgrade - it is the foundation of all upgrades relating to gearbox performance.
  12. like this: You want to add as many o-rings as it takes to make push the barrel/hopup assembly back against the GB. This usually means sanding material off the o-rings so they fit perfectly. They also then serve partially as a vibration dampener.
  13. sp120 is going to put you up and over 400 - more like 420-450. The eg1000 or a high speed motor might be strained by that spring.
  14. Need more info on your battery. If it's 8.4v 3000mAh+ then something is wrong. If it's >2000mAh and/or intellect, then you probably need a better battery. Is the smoke coming from the motor or battery?
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