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buppus

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Everything posted by buppus

  1. You're right that the TVS is backwards, but the ring-tongue on the drain tab is the proper way to implement the 3034, since the internal connection of the drain pin is very thin and fragile. You should not solder directly to the tab either, because the 3034 is prone to failure upon any internal reflow which would occur if you tried to solder to the drain tab. So besides the TVS being the wrong way around, it's an excellent diagram. Another tip that I can offer since I wrote the guide is that you can use thermal adhesive to bond a bit of aluminum or copper to the back of the 3034 and it can be a very effective heatsink for high-demand setups. Also, never try and make your own AB 'FET unless you're following Terry's SW-Computer designs - the simple AB circuit is dangerous.
  2. Lefse is right, in fact, at 370fps+ you don't even need to short stroke anymore, since in your case I recommended it to burn off some muzzle energy and bring it down for CQB. Full-stroke setups are good up to around 45bps, then if you want higher it's best to go DSG. It's also much easier to attain higher FPS levels on a full-stroke setup, not to mention that you can still use longer barrels (since you've still got full cylinder volume to work with) - HS5 once had a gun shooting 700fps <AT> 40rps - definitely not a CQB weapon...
  3. Good word asesino.. safety first. My E90 runs at 38bps, never had any feeding issues. DSG is not really necessary for 40 bps though.. you could get a HS motor with some 16:1 gears and a nice 11.1v LiPO, and run a short-stroked M120 setup for much cheaper.
  4. Glad you've got good results with the Element, the smoothness is likely just luck - the pinion gear really likes the shimming of your bevel gear :) I've never seen a stock gun come with AoE pre-adjusted, but it's actually pretty common for manufacturers to leave the 2nd tooth off of their piston molds these days - more because it's unnecessary and can cause clearance issues relating to compatibility with upgrade parts, and because they are starting to realize that a lot of people do the AoE mod, so why not save some plastic? I believe the G2010 takes standard v2/3 gears even though it uses a v6 box, you should double check that though. For your purposes, I would just buy some SHS 16:1 gears, it's really only worth it to go Siegetek if you really want to go high speed and high fps. Personally I would personally only go for his 10:1 set, even though there are applications where other sets are appropriate.
  5. That would be me and it's not really disputable.. try running an M150+ on anything but Siegetek highspeed gears. It's not that they're "weaker," it's that the load on the gears is drastically increased because they have to do the same amount of work in significantly fewer motor revolutions, and so they can't reliably pull the same springs that standard ratio gears can. It's the reason lower-ratio torque gears were invented, right? With that said, 400fps is no problem for an SHS 13:1 set. This is mostly true, but personally, under absolutely no circumstances would I suggest that anyone at a beginner (or even some intermediate) level of airsoft tech experience go within 10 miles of a DSG. There are 2 things you need to consider here: 1) you're going for higher speed, and with great speed comes great responsibility ... but seriously, I don't recommend venturing very far beyond 35rps unless you have some good experience under your belt. This is because of the physical forces involved in moving the piston/geartrain at those rates of fire. You'll recall that f=m*a, so as the rotational velocity of the sector gear increases as it's striking the piston each revolution to draw it back, the force curve is not linear... it's parabolic. That is why people correct AoE, swiss-cheese their pistons, ditch ball-bearings, and reinforce their gear racks in high speed setups - to keep the piston or gears from blowing up! 2) yes the motors can run on 14.8v or even 18.5v batteries (as long as your wiring/MOSFET can handle it), but it WILL stress the hell out of that motor and shorten it's life. This is for 2 reasons: 1: We're talking about brushed motors here, so the charring on the brushes and comm will be exaggerated, and 2: Excessive heat kills magnets, and neodymium are particularly vulnerable. Now, it's unlikely that you'll hit the curie point and lose all magnetism, but it's definitely possible to reach up past maximum operating temperatures, at which irreversible losses will occur. How much additional wear and stress depends largely on your usage (don't empty entire mags all at once, etc...) and how strenuous your setup is. Generally, people who know how to take their motor apart to clean it and keep it nice and fresh, and know how to use it such that it's not overly stressful can get away with using batteries like that, but degradation will occur sooner as a result.
  6. mmm.. that's an interesting approach - would be very useful for shallow windows where you don't need to open up the inner channel very much. However, I think it's overall better to open up the inner channel a bit so that the "legs" no longer protrude into the barrel.
  7. People can throw numbers out there, but ultimately this depends on a number of different elements in your setup, the success of which is highly dependent on your install and skill in tuning. Generally an R-hop in a similar setup can be quite accurate out to 200+ feet, and it will most likely better than any other hopup setup you could implement, but there are no guarantees here. I'm certainly not going to inflate your expectations unrealistically based on what some other's have achieved here.
  8. That has been suggested before, but I recall one user who had feeding problems after installing an AUG nozzle. Not having access to a G2010 myself, I can't measure, but it's said to be longer than an M4 nozzle. I hate to just throw out suggestions, but a SIG55X might be the best bet. Best policy would be to measure and compare.
  9. Falcon barrels are not rifled, they are fluted. Rifling is the wrong concept, it cannot work with a spherical projectile because of the Magnus effect. Try this next time you're out plinking or skirming: turn your hop all the way up and take a shot - it should soar up into the air before dropping down again. Now rotate your gun 90 degrees to the side (like a gangsta), look down along the barrel and fire again in the same direction - the BB will curve dramatically to the side instead of up in the air. This is what would happen if you tried to rifle an airosft barrel. As Sasori said, backspin is what keeps the round afloat and extends range to almost twice the distance possible without it. That is the point of hopup.
  10. I concur - you already have a nice setup. You're correct that ideal barrel length is around 455mm, but 370 is long enough to be in the butter zone already; so in real-world performance there would not be much improvement from moving up. The H-nubs are often too large to fit properly in the barrel window, and the concept of 2 points of contact has already been conclusively displaced by strategies like the Flat-hop and R-hop. Read up in the pinned thread on internal tweaks. That said, the Mad Bull bucking might be a good investment - I know I've gotten great results with a Flat hop using a Mad Bull red. As always, the best performance improvements come from "tuning" mods, such as barrel stabilization, air seal mods, and alternate hopup strategies (mentioned above).
  11. Technically it can increase your RoF slightly since it shortens the draw of the piston rack (and therefore releases in less time), but in real-life scenarios the change is normally miniscule, and whether or not it will even be noticeable depends more on the motor's torque curve and power usage characteristics than anything else. The "budget high speed" thread is an interesting case where at very low power levels, his motor benefitted substantially from the slightly-lessened load of a lighter piston with a shorter stroke. This is not a typical result, especially once you move away from pathetic stock batteries and stock motors that have virtually no torque. What's interesting is that if he wanted to compensate for his lost fps with a heavier spring, it's likely that he would have actually lost ground, since the lessened volume of the stroke combined with a relatively equal (perhaps greater) work load from the new spring would be less efficient than leaving things stock - unless perhaps he was working with a shorter barrel... Even so, it's not a good strategy. In general though, Jeri is right - short-stroking just gives protection from pre-engagement, and therefore a higher potential RoF ceiling, and rarely will it actually end up noticeably increasing your ROF. Battery is in 99% of cases the first and best upgrade - it is the foundation of all upgrades relating to gearbox performance.
  12. like this: You want to add as many o-rings as it takes to make push the barrel/hopup assembly back against the GB. This usually means sanding material off the o-rings so they fit perfectly. They also then serve partially as a vibration dampener.
  13. sp120 is going to put you up and over 400 - more like 420-450. The eg1000 or a high speed motor might be strained by that spring.
  14. Need more info on your battery. If it's 8.4v 3000mAh+ then something is wrong. If it's >2000mAh and/or intellect, then you probably need a better battery. Is the smoke coming from the motor or battery?
  15. I just bang a flat head screwdriver into the screw with a hammer and then unscrew it.
  16. Motors: There has been talk of using brushless R/C motors, the problem is that they are too wide and require ETC units - this makes them impractical in most AEG's since the grip of the gun usually serves as the motor housing, and because local fields would have difficulty controlling field limits on RoF - since one could just clock in at the field limit and then turn it up later. Some guns like the AUG, P90, M249, etc.. that have a large compartment with extra space might be able to accommodate something like that, but it would really be overkill, and probably wouldn't add to the current capabilities of today's AEG's. The reason is that AEG's are not limited by the capabilities of brushed motors, they are limited by air volume. There comes a certain point where the diminishing returns of heavier and heavier springs on a given volume of air become so miniscule that it's no longer worth it to reach for more power without expanding cylinder volume. Not only that, but we have also reached the material limits of springs - no one has been able to produce a spring more powerful than the MS210 which will fit in a standard gearbox. Gears: your gun has standard 18.72:1 gears. For most commonly used/desired airsoft setups, the current gear design is quite adequate. Most gears are sintered metals, which makes them relatively weak, but most people make up for it by choosing an appropriate ratio combined with the motor/battery characteristics that will get their desired results. For those who want more extreme performance, there are RiotSC's CNC'd chromium molybdenum gears, which will surely not break under any forces that are common to an airsoft gearbox. Lastly, if you make the gears bigger, you have to make the gearbox bigger - that doesn't work for a lot of airsoft guns, which depend on the streamlined dimensions of current gearboxes to maintain realism in the final product. If you made them bigger, it would throw a wrench in a lot of the most popular platforms (armalites, AK's, H&K replicas, etc...) so although you have some good ideas and valuable experience coming out of the R/C world, I think ultimately the costs of a redesign project would vastly outweigh the benefits - replacement gearsets are cheap and widely available, and work just fine for our purposes. As for your motor's characteristics, there is unfortunately no documentation for that. The best you could do is to search around to see what results other people have gotten when swapping out different spring levels and plot them on a curve according to muzzle energy (J) and RoF on a given battery. Even then you'll run into problems because different batteries, batches of motors, etc.. Better to pick a goal and let us make a recommendation. The G&G torque is a good motor. You might be better off with the JG red in terms of RoF for the same spring level, but its a solid bet, and with that battery you'll be cookin into the mid 20's with your stock gears. Barrels: I would recommend you keep your stock barrel. Standard barrel bore is 6.08mm, and has very little to do with accuracy. The tighter you go, the more FPS you'll squeeze out due to minimizing blow-by, but the more spin interference you'll get from the barrel. Ideal spin is perfectly vertical, and uninhibited by contact with anything but the very top of the barrel. Any contact with the side arcs can negatively influence backspin. Ultimately the barrel's contribution to accuracy comes from its quality of bore - not width, and ultimately this is less important, as tomz said, than your hopup setup overall - going for the most consistent hop spin, the longest hop stroke, and a stable barrel. Look into Flat-hop or R-hop for more info. A lot of people around here like 6.03 TBB's, but I think that's due more to the fact that the more popular and proven barrel brands come in 6.03 (prometheus, mad bull). I have used 6.01's, 6.03's, 6.04's and 6.05's, and got equally good results with all of them, and I've even got comparable results with a crappy stock acm brass 6.08 barrel when I stabilized it and installed an R-hop. All other things being equal, I like to stick around 6.05, but it honestly doesn't make that much of a difference. So again, stick with your stock barrel, and think about how you can make your barrel/hopup more consistent rather than thinking in terms of part swapping. It's all about tuning my friend.
  17. CA is especially good for metal to metal bonds (bushings) and for rubbers and sorbothane. In the case of sorbo, it actually begins to dissolve the sorbo, and when you press in onto the cylinder head it literally fuses the liquefied sorbo to the cylinder head surface.
  18. Well your first question should be, can the motor and battery pull it? A lot of times AEGs/AEPs are put together with motors that are matched to the spring being used, and may not be able to pull a heavier one effectively. This is where LiPO batteries and motor upgrades come in. With that said, heavier springs place more strain on the geartrain, piston, and gearbox shell. Those last two can be mitigated to some extent by correcting the pison's angle of engagement, padding the cylinder head with sorbothane, and radiusing the corners of the GB shell's cylinder window. See the pinned thread on internal tweaks and mods for tutorials. That leaves the geartrain - some brands (like CA, TM, and sometimes G&G, and G&P), don't do well with upgraded springs, but others are very capable of handling heavy spring loads (JG, SHS, most clones that come with XYT, etc.). If you're using a gun with plastic or proprietary gears, forget it. If it uses standard metal gears, then it can be upgraded reliably with the proper tweaks and mods.
  19. You can get a rough RoF approximation when keeping the same motor and switching gear ratio. The calculation involves simple arithmetic, playing with the fact that gear ratio refers to the number of motor revolutions (the first number) it takes to get one sector gear revolution (the second number). For instance, using my Element torque motor on stock G&G gears (technically, the ratio of standard ratio gears is 18.72:1), I get 25rps on a big old 11.1v LiPO. That means my motor is doing 18.72 * 25 = 468 revolutions/second pulling an M130. If I switch to 16:1 gears, I will end up with 468 / 16 = 29.25rps. If I switch to 13:1 gears, it will be more like 468 / 13 = 36 rps. Now, you have to take into account that by reducing the number of motor revolutions it takes to do the same amount of work, it increases the torque load on the motor. So depending on your motor's torque curve and power usage characteristics, you might get a little under the calculated RoF, since it's being calculated on a different point in the motor's torque curve. With any of those recommended torque motors, however, they won't be slowed down much if at all... maybe they would lose 1-3rps if you went with 13:1 gears. As for compression - you have to get into the gearbox to test it. Check out the pinned thread on internal mods and tweaks and it will tell you everything you need to know. Generally a bit of teflone tape, a lighter and some ingenuity are all you need to seal a GB up pretty good.
  20. Sounds like he doesn't really want an M150, just a motor that has the power to pull one effectively. You definitely want a torque motor, I would recommend JG red, SHS, or Matrix Magnum. The G2000 comes with an M110ish spring. Springs are rated by the fps they produce in a standard gearbox setup with .2g BB's. M stands for Meter, so convert to feet and you've got your fps estimation (e.g. 100m = ~330ft, 120m = ~390ft, etc...). The exceptions are Guarder ("sp" nomenclature instead of "M"), who rate their springs with .25g BB's, and PDI, who work off % of 1J. If you want ~400fps as your base, I would go with a Guarder sp120. You won't quite reach 30rps with that setup, but you'll be close. You could always grab a set of SHS 16:1 gears to give you that little extra speed if you really want it. And to answer your last question, high speed gears are generally more likely to break than high torque gears, because they are subjected to a lot more stress and torque from the motor. That's why it's recommended that you don't exceed an M120 on most 13:1 gear sets. The base of the teeth that bear the greatest load are actually smaller in a high speed gearset. As for wiring, you want high strand copper. I prefer teflon coated, but some like the noodly silicone, and PVC also works fine. Gauge depends on how much room you have in the gun, and what's convenient/available to you. Most people go with 16AWG, and going thicker from there is all really diminishing returns, but if you've got some nice 12AWG and it fits, then by all means go for it. Note that you might have trouble fitting 12AWG into your SW-AB-LONG.
  21. Yea you are correct about the MP5K parts, and as far as ease of installation its the air nozzle that's gonna get you... I've never seen a drop-in MP5K replacement gearbox, so even if you buy another complete GB you'll have to open it to swap the nozzle. Therefore, you're better off just replacing the shell - almost any standard v3 will do, and <AT> aleksandar - you're not going to find a steel GB - maybe CNC aluminum, but even that's overkill... I would grab a JG or dboys or something. I recommend a 7mm shell - they're cheap and reliable. That means you'll need new metal 7mm bushings with that (don't use ball-bearings), and a set of gear shims to redo your shimming. The rest of the parts you can just transfer right over to the new shell. While you're in there do the mods mentioned above - install sorbo, correct piston AoE, radius cylinder window corners, adjust your motor height, and check your airseal. The pinned thread about internal tweaks and mods will give you what you need to know. The trigger can be tricky, but just be patient and get a second set of hands to help when you need to reassemble. You'll get it. Check youtube for video guides.
  22. OK some of these recommendations are archaic, no offense to you guys but motormouth, anachro and campingtomz are the only ones in this thread who gave completely accurate advice. Not trying to flame anyone, just want to set some things straight. 1) G&G stock motors blow - the only one I would use is their High Torque, and would prefer almost any ACM neo torque motor to that. G&G stock = crap < G&G Torque = decent < SHS, Matrix magnum etc.. = very nice. With that said, the stock motor on a decent 11.1v LiPO will easily hit 20rps (albiet with questionable trigger response, especially when dialed up to 400fps). So if you don't mind a little trigger lag, you are correct, you don't need a new motor. For reference, I run an Element High Torque motor w/ (11.1v 3000mAh 25C LiPO) on G&G stock gears &lt;AT&gt; 465fps. RoF = 25rps and trigger response is extremely fast. High speed motors are pretty powerful these days as well, (same setup with an Element High Speed motor &lt;AT&gt; 350fps = 38rps) but still suffer longer trigger response since they have lower torque and can have trouble accelerating when pulling M120+. For your setup a Torque motor would be ideal, since you could always drop in either a bigger spring for higher FPS, or high speed gears for higher RoF. Torque motors = great trigger response and lots of options/flexibility for changing your setup. 2) MOSFET was a good choice, especially from EF. Yes you can make your own for cheaper, but A) you should NEVER make a homemade AB 'FET - that design is dangerous, so just stick with the simple non-AB design. And B) EF is top quality, guaranteed work, and he's the one who put all the years and expense of R&D, engineering and programming into his 'FETs, so his prices are perfectly reasonable. Deans/T-plugs are nice, since tamiyas are not meant to carry the kind of power that today's LiPO's output, and they wear out and become less efficient over time, but the resistance that comes from the stock wiring/trigger contacts is way overstated here - it doesn't make that much of a difference in terms of RoF to upgrade. It is, however, a solid upgrade choice for efficiency and longetivity, and since it's so easy on the F2000 you might as well. 3) LiPO batteries - for a given voltage, the bigger the better - always. Higher capacity and discharge rate means less stress on the battery, because it's the motor that drives power consumption, not the battery (I.e., the motor is not being force-fed by the battery - the motor only pulls what it wants, so better to have overhead discharge capability). Always get the largest capacity, highest discharge LiPO that can fit in your gun.
  23. Yea, the Galaxy v.3 is crap compared to most other v.3's, but it's still most likely that you just got an especially turdy one (maybe some bubbling or inconsistent sintering around the fault area). This is why we always recommend sorbo pads for AoE correction, as well as cyinder window radiusing. You should be able to replace it with a standard v.3 shell, just keep your proprietary parts (selector plate and motor retention mechanism).
  24. To stop from overhopping just shave down the nub slightly - that will decrease the protrusion of the nub into the barrel window and reduce hop.
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