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Riflewizard

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Everything posted by Riflewizard

  1. Seals still working great. About 10-15 magazines.
  2. 1. Take the leaky magazine, and ensure it's empty of propellant. 2. Depress the top fill valve and spray WD-40 inside the rubber seal that feeds to tank inside. Give a generous amount, you want to be able to liberally coat the inside walls of the tank. 3. Shake the magazine vigoriously, and then set it in various positions (typically baseplate down) as gravity will help feed lubricant to the portions of the baseplate that are dry. 4. Let the magazine sit for 5-10 minutes, and then give it a SMALL pressure charge (giving it too much could prematurely blow out swelling seals). You may find it does not leak at this time. Now, discard this magazine for an additional 5-10 minutes. Then give it a gas charge and it should not leak. Now expel 2-3 magazines worth of a gas charge (half a full charge, shaken to capture excess oil) out of the magazine, and give it a small charge for long-term storage. If it does leak at this point, expel the small gas charge, and let the magazine sit for an additional 5-10 minutes. Check again and see if the leak is gone. Then, again, following the above steps, clear excess oil from the magazine and prepare for storage, or repeat treatment, but disassembly and inspection of mag is likely the best option. I just did this last night on my mags and fixed two leaks in 10 minutes. if only I'd known that trick when I used to airsoft more! A 10 year old HFC M9 magazine, and a 5 year old KWA MAC11 magazine. Both leaked from the baseplate seals, and I know from expierence those typically require more work than a quick spray of lube to fix. I use wd40 on a regular basis to maintain seals on my gas guns and have seen no problems, it merely seems more effective at swelling seals to stop leakage as these seals tend to dry out quite quickly with usage. I believe that silicon oil is far less effective in being able to seep and penetrate into deeply contained seals. I like use silicon oil to treat non-leaky seals, whereas I use WD-40 for magazines that are leaky or have particularly old/compressed seals, but I really use whatever is closest. That being said, I do not recommend wd40 for use inside airsoft guns, as it's not a very good lubricant for most airsoft purposes.
  3. I dunno, maybe I'm not old enough yet, but I just love shooting kids younger than me.
  4. Lol. Good luck. Not a fantastic gun. But it works... usually.
  5. Those magazines are notorious for leaks... put it under water and see the bubbles, then you'll need to take it down and soak whatever leaky seals there are in oil.. but you're going to have a rough time getting those leaks to stop.
  6. Don't oil your magazines unless you need to for them to properly feed. Don't leave your magazines loaded or wound up. Cleaning them is rarely needed and only if they get really dirty from field use and being thrown around in dirt and heavy brush.
  7. Old junky gun. Not much information on it. Here's an old review of one from when they came out. http://www.airsoftretreat.com/forums/index.php?topic=16795.0 says it doesnt have hopup which I find hard to believe but is possible. Also it likely has a 'full size' plastic clone gearbox.
  8. Look into used guns. Much cheaper and deals can be had. Check ebay
  9. you can get a kwa m11 ns2. They sell steel body kits for them for around 150 dollars made by G&P. No c02 power though.
  10. Get an HFC M9 bucking from Evike or something. Bucking should be compatible with standard marui pistol buckings, afiak. At least my HFC M9 seemed to use the same type as my Marui 1911.
  11. More so add filler to it. There's a lot of empty spaces in the body I can fill to add rigidity. I have bondo, but it's a pretty poor material for anything that takes stress. Typically I use JB Weld for stuff, but I need something a lot cheaper that comes in bigger packages for this kinda thing.
  12. Hey guys, I have an ACM M14 of some sort. The stock feels kind of flimsy. What kind of substance should I use to stiffen it up? There's a lot of recesses and stuff in the stock I could put additional material in. Would something like Fiberglass be an effective material, and is anyone familiar with it? Or any other suggestions. Thanks
  13. Interested in a spring shotgun. M47 (such as the UTG) models with m4 stock and pistol grip preffered. Hicap mag would be nice too. Will consider trishots and DE M58. As well as TSD shell load 1-shots.
  14. 300 USD at least. Assuming it's clean and functions well.
  15. Epoxy it together then dremel out slots. Put metal pins in the slots, and epoxy those in.
  16. It's a cheap toy. whatever paint you've lost isn't important. don't stress about it.
  17. Could be fixed with epoxy and various other materials and dremel work.. I could possibly fix it.
  18. Only a fool would buy a TM M16. The M4's and short variants are tolerable, but the M16 is awful. All of the other choices are solid, but have varying degrees of pros and cons. I believe Classic Army is a good brand, but lacks some of the extra 'realism' on the externals. I always used CA's and they never failed me for years of airsofting, very reliable. G&P Has the best externals and I would probably suggest getting one, if you want to spend a bit more. I believe the CA M15's go for about 220 or so these days, which is not bad at all depending on your price range. G&G is also solid and reliable, though I have no personal experience with them. ICS's are pretty decent but not very popular, nothing too special. The gearbox swaps could be useful if you had to change FPS limits often.
  19. I've got some gears from A BE xm8 that might work
  20. Good luck holstering a Desert Eagle well. It's an excellent GBB (used to own one) but the 1911 is more practical.
  21. TM is the highest quality and I highly suggest it.
  22. Pic of the stock? May be worth a bit more than you paid.
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