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Everything posted by thenodnarb

  1. Forgive me if this topic has already been covered, but I'm posting this because I keep getting this question: Can I just use the madbull CO2 charger to charge my magazine? That way I don't have to buy all the air rig stuff and I don't have to tap my magazine! Hurray? Answer: This has been a public service announcement. Please resume your regularly scheduled threads
  2. hopup is the Achilles heel off all modern airsoft guns. Its just so dang hard to ask for consistency from rubber. Even spin is the key. I think good buckings do a good job of applying a relatively consistent amount of hop, but the left-right stability is there it has a problem. That is what the SCS spacer was designed for. Just need a way of holding that spacer evenly. Something like the adjustment arm off of an AEG, but with a flat bottomed hole in the top so the hopup arm from the tanaka/kjw can apply even pressure without the arm spinning.
  3. I remember that TCF was very interested in a custom 8mm sniper rifle a few years ago. I don't know what became of it. It would be cool though if you could make an airsoft 50BMG type rifle (barret) that did shoot around 800-1000 fps. You could set up their MED at around 250 ft. Then it would truly be a long range weapon. I imagine that with good ammo and that kind of speed it would be capable of 400ft shots or maybe even 450ft shots accurately. A laser range finder would be important for safe MED verification. It would have to be gas for sure. I also think the hopup, if made properly would be more accurate than a 6mm bb just because it would be easier to apply even hop to an 8mm bb than a 6mm. But that is all just theoretical.
  4. Have you tried modding a hopup chamber to take an SCS? It should yield the most reliable left to right stabilization of bbs if the bucking is modded right. I've got a couple on the way for my rifles and I am using KJW takedown. The takedown chamber is very nice except for the way hopup us applied. It has the space to take any AEG spacer if desired. I modded my rifle to take the adjustment knob of a police version(that adjusts on the top of the weaver rail) and I get tons more hop and more consistent hop to boot. I still get some fliers as well (mostly left hooking bbs so probably from hopup) which is why I'm trying the SCS. I'll let you know if it works. EDIT* DUH! I just noticed that you are using an SCS! boy am I dense sometimes
  5. paintball QDs are not "one way" to my knowledge. Most paintballers have to add a check valve which is an additional fitting that they add right before the disconnect that has to be manually manipulated before the qd is detached or else the air comes blasting out and you loose pressure very quickly. the fittings you want are on mcmaster carr website. http://www.mcmaster.com/#9414k19/=9sjzov you have a couple options for hose attacment. If you want to do microline and push on fittings: http://www.mcmaster.com/#5225k604/=9p1y6j http://www.mcmaster.com/#5225k303/=9sk0mg If you are running a remote line, you may need a female female adapter (1/8npt) and remove whatever QD fitting is already on it. In fact, the qd fitting may come with the right sized nipple for the fitting I listed but I would be safe and order the ones that match. they aren't expensive. Get two or however many mags you plan to run. This type of setup will shut off the gas at the disconnect automatically when the fitting is disconnected, making it very fast to change mags. The only pressure you loose is the pressure that is currently in the magazine. Just like in this video at 5:20
  6. I really like the AICS. It is super solid and takes all the M700 upgrades(except outer barrel is different). lI have the KJW M700 takedown which is good, but I like how solid the AICS is. It has nice adjustable cheek weld adjustment and length of pull adjustments and it has some built in sling loops that are perfectly located. Its a bit more expensive but worth it in the long run. Choose your base gun carefully because your stuck with it and all your upgrades are based on it.
  7. if you are playing well, a side arm is just for those shots that are under the MED. 100ft or less. Don't let it become a crutch. concealment is your primary defense. If that is blown, you should have already planned an escape route. I believe in pistols for snipers. they go anywhere and are ready at a moments notice. GBBs over EBBs. If you can figure out how to carry the MK23 with a silencer, and it fits your hand. go for it. It helps you to remain concealed even when using your secondary. I would encourage you to look at some guns in person if possible. hold them and shoot them if they will let you. failing that, see if soemone you play with has one so you can take a look. familiarity and comfort are very important factors when using a sidearm.
  8. There is a group of people who play in redlands on a regular basis on Saturdays. I've actually not played with them on a saturday but I plan to soon once I get my new GBBR. They play in the same place every week and I don't think they've ever had a problem with playing there. Its at the "end" of california street where it dumps into the wash across from the AFB. I've heard they normally have only 5 or 6 but have had pretty big games occasionally. Redlands is only about 15 minutes from Rancho so not too bad of a drive. There is also a group that plays in mentone on sundays. I think they play off newport ave in mentone at the following coordinates: 34.078632,-117.080615 Just type that into google maps and you'll see right where it is. Its on the right side of the road.
  9. I've carried an HFC M9 GBB, TM mk23 NBB, KWA USP GBB(NS2 system), MP5, and MP7. I've always come back to my HFC M9. Its reliable, cycles well and is pretty accurate. The MP5 and MP7 were both too big and I couldn't draw them quickly enough while staying mobile enough. The mk23 with silencer I carry sometimes, but usually its to primary with since the silencer makes I too big to carry in a holster, and attaching the silencer in an emergency situation doesn't happen. The KWA was suprisingly not reliable, which sucks because that is WHY I bought it. It was supposed to be extremely reliable. The M9 just works. It needs higher pressure in the winter to work reliably, but I can carry my mags in a pocket with a hand heater and it works fine. my .02
  10. +1 WOC is better if you can swing it
  11. woc-x is a good base IMHO. That is what I'm starting with. Fully upgradable. Key to more fps in a gbbr seems to be barrel length and barrel tightness. A custom edgi 5.98 id barrel shooting ONLY bioval bbs in maybe a 363mm length barrel would get you close to your goal. Adjustable NPAS would probably get you the rest of the way there. HPA air rig is not out of the question. In fact it may be necessary to get consistent FPS. Just keep the pressure down to GG levels. Later, either as things break or as you have money, you can upgrade internals to stronger components for durability. check out gasguninfo. There is a thread over there that talks about the HPA rig in depth. he lists the qd self sealing fittings that are perfect for mag changes.
  12. RAP 4 likely sells their grenades to Madbull. Their CO2 charger is the exact same thing as well. eeither that or one is owned by the other. Either way I think they are the same product.
  13. Good deal. Question: Is the reg a CP products? Looks similar. Long bottom reg? Shorty? If so, they have Low Pressure packs that you can swap out I believe. Showing this to a friend...
  14. I realize the war was long, but not many 1777 model FRENCH muskets made it to America during the war. Perhaps near the end when the French were helping us. Mostly earlier style Brown Bess ENGLISH muskets were used, and of course Pennsylvania Rifles. Muskets are made one at a time in this era, and they are all unique. No interchangeable parts. That means it took a long time to make them, and it is unlikely many of the 1777 design were used in the revolution. So for all intents and purposes, it is a POST revolutionary musket.
  15. Is your outer barrel custom, or did you thread it for your end cap? If it's custom, what other differences are there compared to a stock barrel? When you say your hopup isn't stock, is that in reference to the thicker barrel, necessitating a bucking or hop system that needs to accept that thicker barrel? Or is the barrel size at the hopup unit the same diameter as your average barrel and it necks up after the chamber? Nice precision looking rifle.How's it shoot?
  16. Well I am pleased to report that I have found the sweet spot. Interestingly enough, it is with the stock hopup bucking. Findings: The police adjuster knob coupled with a spacer can actually overhop a .43g bb. I had to back off the hop quite a bit, and finally adjust my scope in order to see how the bbs flew. I can now fling a .43g bb easily out to 75 yards without the bb beginning to drop. They fly pretty much with a straight trajectory out that far. Paralax adjustments need to be made for yardages under 30. The adjuster knob without a spacer is not enough to apply adequate spin to a .43g bb. My worn KA bucking seems to now be less accurate and even apply less hop than the stock bucking. I don't know if this is because it is torn where the nub is, or because the bb has to be fired through the air seal since the nozzle isn't long enough. I am using a madbull shark type spacer that has been modified by gluing tiny washers on the side of it to prevent it from tilting in the hopup chamber. When you order this, you actually get 2 spacers. You want to use the black one, that has the thicker "legs". I can't seem to find it anymore on evike or airsoftgi, but the echo 1 H shaped spacer looks like the exact same thing: I want to do an accuracy test soon, and when I do, I'll post a video of it.
  17. somebody has done this exact mod, and wrote up an article on it. It was a charleville 1760's era model. He used a spring type power sourcer and cocked it with a rope that stuck out the back of the piston. It looked pretty good. I actually think a paintball version of this would be easier since a brown bess is roughly .68 caliber and so is paintball. I KNOW you can make money if you build these and sell them. My former employer would probably invest in several, be they brown bess or other pre-revolutionary muskets. He has already spent 10k or so in a laser tag type musket system which requires the wearer to have vest on that receives incoming shots from others. I don't know how many he bought, but I don't think they are made yet. I thought it was lame. Airsoft would be the perfect ammo for these only because airsoft requires less safety gear, so a reenactment could be more realistic. I don't think paintball masks on redcoats would be cool. accurate range is similar too. And you don't need to worry about a magazine system since the user would be muzzle loading the bbs. Definately keep me updated. I love this idea. Just need an easy way to convert pedersoli brown bess's! Edit: Here is the article: 1777 Airsoft musket...Gues it was POST revolutionary musket. Oh well, same effect to the layman. EDIT #2: By the way, use a gas system. Should make it much easier create and modify. A small regulated system could fit in a hollowed out stock, or in a cartouch box with a discrete line running to the chamber. Also, I either leave out hopup, or mount hopup is random direction for a more realistic effect!
  18. I haven't seen this info out there yet so I am posting it. I have the takedown version of the KJW M700, and I was looking for an improved way to apply hop since the stock method was crappy. After some examining, I learned that the threads for the police version adjuster knob are already in the takedown's rail, and there is already a hole in the receiver for the knob. The takedown version just has an extra thickness to the receiver that nends to be drilled away. I used a 1/8th drill bit to drill out the hole, and found that the hopup chamber is positioned perfectly beneath it. I was originally concerned that the police version knob wouldn't be long enough to reach the chamber since the takedown chamber is " shorter" so it can rotate in the receiver when it is being removed, however that was not a problem. The knob reaches easily and appears that it will provide plenty of hop even without a spacer. However, when the hopup adjustment knob is in place, it is not possible to take down the rifle without removing the hopup knob. In fact, in order to remove the knob, one has to remove their scope as well, making take-down not a field expedient process.However this is a small sacrifice for a more consistent hopup arm. In addition, this means that a takedown version hopup chamber should work in a police version, which gives the police version user a cheap alternative for upgrading to a one piece hopup chamber. I do believe the takedown chamber can accommodate any AEG spacer since I myself use a madbull shark tail style spacer in my takedown chamber. I'm not sure if it will work well with this combination of vertical adjustment and AEG spacers, but some experimenting is in order. I have yet to find the perfect and most consistent type of hopup spacer and bucking combo to give me the kind of results I am looking for, so bear with me as I update this post in time with my findings. I will hopefully be updating this post tomorrow with a field test on how the rifle shoots with various arm/spacer/bucking combos.
  19. My KA bucking is actually tearing where the H style spacer is pushing down on it. I left the nub stock, so I wonder if that is causing my problems. I recently put the stock bucking back in because I believe my KA bucking was getting a bit too worn. I'd like to try the SCS, but I want to get a new bucking at the same time. Brainplay, do you suggest a nineball bucking? Some other bucking? Should I remove my nub? Shape it? I've seen a lot of opinions on hopup design. I wonder what has worked best for you.
  20. can you show a picture of this part? There is no o-ring on my rifle where the two pieces meet.
  21. I liked the KA bucking. I hear nineball is good too. I personally don't put a lot of stock in internet rumors. I wonder how many people had to be dissatisfied with their bucking before the KA is rumored to have bad quality control(no offense vulrath). Being the hardest, I think they're the best for the velocities the gas guns shoot.(usually 550+) Don't get a firefly. They were all hyped up a few years ago, but their "hard" bucking is softer than the stock bucking, and provide little hop. I ordered mine from japan, and was really disappointed. It does well in my TM pistol, but not on my sniper rifle.
  22. I considered it, and even tried shooting it with the silly "free floating" idea. I don't really want to go with no barrel spacer and no end cap since I want to run a supressor. So far I'm pretty pleased with my limited test so far. I didn't have any mysteriously hooking bbs, so good deal. I actually believe that if everything is true and straight, a rigid internal barrel is superior to a barrel that can wobble around. It's not like free floating a RS rifle, where harmonics come into play, and the barrel doesn't need support from the handguard. Our relatively flimsy inner barrels can move around too much leaving room for shots that can wander. It may be an improvement when an outer barrel is misaligned, but I think a perfectly aligned and rigid inner barrel is the best solution.
  23. Yesterday I put this idea of no hopup to the test.I haven't done enough testing, but my initial test determined that a 75 yard shot would be just about the extent of your range due to the bbs dropping out of the scope. I also learned that even .30bbs flew better without hopup than with hopup, and might be an option for this type of shooting. I also discovered that my outer barrel was applying pressure on my inner barrel and causing it to curve left, which in turn caused my bbs to curve left. I wonder if causing the barrel to curve up by way of a custom barrel spacer might give you some hop. Of course if it turns out to be inconsistent, then I suppose a straight barrel would be better. Now that I've solved my left hook issue, I'm probably going to be working more on my hopup system than experimenting with this no hopup concept, at least for a few weeks. Let us know how it goes for you. It would be interesting to see what kind of accuracy you could achieve. Hopefully it's better than a hopup type system, but I've seen some hopup systems that work very well. This video is not a gas gun, but the hopup system is what we're looking at here.
  24. I've had an inconsistent left hook for a little while now, and I thought my hopup was applying uneven pressure. So I was experimenting with no hopup by removing the the hopup spacer and testing the accuracy. To my surprise, the left hook was still present, and even exacerbated! So I started racking my brain to figure out what could cause this. Ultimately I determined that the outer barrel was not perfectly aligned with the inner barrel, so that when I installed my barrel spacers, it was forcing the inner barrel to the left by a few mm. So I elongated the outer barrel mounting screw and shifted the outer barrel to the right until the inner barrel rested centered in the outer barrel. This resulted in my outer barrel LOOKING askew, but actually being straight. I reinstalled my barrel spacers, and shot my rifle, and the hook was gone! What causes this? Well, actually something Brainplay said made me think about this. Some paintball barrels curve upwards in order to apply backspin (hop). I'm not sure why but I think it may have to do with the ball rolling along the edge of the barrel. So a left curving barrel would cause hop to the left, and vice-versa. Why was my problem exacerbated by reducing hop? I believe that the hop applied by the hopup caused a backspin, which sort of competed with the hook caused by the curving barrel. What I got was some degree of backspin and sidespin which could vary from shot to shot. My rifle is a KJW M700 takedown, but this principal could apply to any airsoft rifle.
  25. For $600 for a stock rifle, I'd rather have a GBB M4. However if it has the gas res in the stock, it may have some merit.
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