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crimsonfalcon07

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About crimsonfalcon07

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    Sniper Tech, Reviewer, and Airsoft Vet

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    http://try ASR, Arnies, ASB
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    A few warnings for those who would PM me. I have a few simple rules.<br /><br />Do NOT use my guides or written work without my permission.<br /><br />Treat me and everyone else on these forums with common courtesy.<br /><br />And if you're going to contact me for help, don't lie to me. I wasn't born yesterday. If you understood how projectiles work in enough detail to make crazy shots, you wouldn't be asking me for help. Don't claim to know anyone in the SEAL teams (if you did, you wouldn't know it because they don't TELL people they're in the teams, as you'd know if you had even an ounce of respect for the uniform they wear), and your rifle does NOT have 300 foot effective range. If you can't grow up enough not to lie, you don't deserve my help or advice.<br /><br />All of these are simple rules, and for most of you, are hopefully common sense. If you lack that much common sense, you're not going to last long on the forums.<br /><br />I'm not a jerk, I just have low tolerance for people being idiots.

Previous Fields

  • Airsoft Replicas Owned
    "The error returned was: You entered too much data for the field 'Airsoft Replicas Owned', please go back and check the input"
  1. Well, I got it in today. Also promptly broke it today. It's made out of pot metal, and whether it's QC issues or what, I don't know, but I only fired it about 30 times, and then when I took off the plastic stock, the bottom part of the receiver and one of the necessary parts of the internals fell right off. This thing is amazingly fragile. I'd wait for a later rendition that has parts that aren't as fragile as glass.
  2. I'm picking one up tomorrow to review. Been out of the game long enough, although been enjoying knifemaking quite a bit. Stay tuned...
  3. Blue light means the gun is theoretically ready to fire. Have you tried pressing in on the bolt release? What happens if you try to fire it with no magazine inserted? Will send you PM regarding part out stuff...
  4. M21, still WIP, G&G Veteran based: SPR Mk12 mod 0--KM16 based, I actually have the correct OPS12 suppressor for this bad boy too... Custom build SL9 SD: Made or modded the body kit myself. Mk12 mod 0 Crane stock: Made my own crane stock and custom lefty sniper grip. And, this one isn't an AEG, but it's also not a bolty either--gas blowback Mk12 mod 1: Sold my SR25's, and miss them, going to try to get another again. I have another custom AEG in production--designing a full custom gun for Evike, which will be available for sale from them on request, using Matrix custom parts--still waiting on a couple more externals from them, but performance is great, and comparable to my KM16 SPR, which is torso-accurate out to 250 feet. The KM16 is specced at an M130, but chronoes in at 480 or so. The Matrix Custom SR25 uses an M150 for a bit over 500, and can hit out to nearly 300 feet. I used nothing but the best hopup parts and internals, and aside from the usual AEG compression and nozzle placement issues (the latter of which can be fixed by a Pakiyama nozzle), it's godly thanks to the EdGI 6.01mm tightbore, Promy hopup, and H-nub. You can improve accuracy with a Shredder Concave Spacer as well. Pics to come in a few weeks when I complete the build. Let me know if you need more details on the internals; all of these guns are part of my DMR AEG lineup, which means I keep them as close to bone-stock as possible, with the exception of the custom guns built entirely from scratch, mainly upgrading the hopup and barrel. All of these are comparable in terms of long-range performance to most upgraded bolt-actions. I still use a bolty for noise and 300 foot precision, but with an H-nub or SCS nub and a good tightbore and bucking, AEG's can be very competitive sniper rifles.
  5. Yep, A+ to Tux. Snipers are supposed to be flexible. I personally don't hold with the one-shot one-kill philosophy. That's movie crap. In most sniper schools in the military, they teach you to shoot more than once to ensure a positive takedown. It's just, if you're in a position where you only are likely to GET one shot, you had better make it count. But it's not about one shot one kill. That's something they try to break you of from the very start. What's important is completing the mission, and if that mission is to take down a target, then you take as many shots as necessary to ENSURE that he goes down and stays down. While you should be saving ammo for good shots, that's mostly to avoid compromising your position. Heck, sometimes a near miss is as good tactically, if you're providing cover fire. In that case, it's better to fire and miss to keep their heads down than it is to wait until you have a perfect shot.
  6. Yep, TM precision is the best hopup chamber--that's the black one, not the stock silver one. I've had some pretty meh results with the Laylax chamber. I mean, it's nice and all, but I didnt get any improvement, whereas the TM precision unit definitely did improve things over the stock TM unit.
  7. Oh thank /THOU SHALT NOT USE MY NAME IN VAIN/. Someone who actually understands another way to play. I usually lump this tactic in with squad fire support, because you're most effective if you're taking out specific targets that have tactical value to your team, but yes, this is by far the most effective way to play as a sniper if you're wanting to get kills. And yes, Shooter was a great book.
  8. Depends on how much work you put into it and what the quality of the parts is. I can hit out to 250 feet with 100% torso accuracy IN skirmish conditions with my KWA M16 based Mk12, and all I've got in there internally is a Madbull v.2 tightbore and an Element H-nub. Add in a Pakayama nozzle, and it will easily be able to hit farther. That's comparable to the accuracy of most fully upgraded sniper rifles, and it CAN hit out to nearly 300 feet with BIOVAL .27's. Once you get above 450, fps doesn't mean jack. It would mean more if any of the heavier weight ammo was worth an ounce of spit, but the consistency on virtually all of it except maybe the Digicon ammo is crap, and that got discontinued anyways. Average effective range on a fully upgraded VSR or L96 is 250-280 feet. There's only a handful of people who can build a rifle that's actually accurate past that point (the VAST majority of 300+ foot claims are a load of crap), and even then, that's only a 50-60 foot advantage. H-nubs really change the dynamic of the sport. As far as range goes, a sniper rifle doesn't have much on an well-put together AEG. What little range advantage you DO get can be erased in a matter of seconds by a running person, and if you've got a 550 fps spring, chances are they'll close to THEIR effective engagement distance while you're trying to reload. Then you're screwed. Sniper rifles have ONE big advantage over DMR's, and it's not range or accuracy. Well, maybe accuracy, although the new upgrades out for AEG's really cut down on the difference. It's STEALTH.
  9. Well, the UTG L96 or the TSD L96 is really your best bet then.
  10. 1. DBC is out of business. There will not be any more DBC barrels produced. 2. I prefer EdGI 6.01 to the 6.00, but that's just me. I had some issues with the 6.00 and SGM bb's. If you use smaller diameter bb's, you'll probably be fine with the 6 flat. 3. Porting is very useful. They charge an additional 5 dollars. It is NOT something you can do yourself. You have to space the holes VERY PRECISELY, and if you do it yourself, you'll almost certainly end up with material sticking into the barrel, causing jams or inaccuracy.
  11. *Facepalm* WRONG. The referenced rifle, which you'd know if you clicked the link, is the AGM L96, often called the JG L96 by retailers who don't know any better. To be fair, the AGM and JG factories do often overlap. This particular gun is basically an MP001 in an AICS chassis. I reviewed it a while back on ASR. It's decent enough if you install an EdGI tightbore and modify the hopup bucking, but for the purposes of the OP, it's a waste. In fact, the BAR-10 probably isn't as good of a choice either, because it doesn't sound like he'll take the time to mod it or upgrade it internally. So, I'd go with the TSD SD96 or the UTG Mk96, both based off of the WELL MB01 Warrior 1 L96. Swayze, what exactly is your budget? Are you willing to spend 500? Or are you only wanting to spend a little? Because you won't get anything that's going to outrange any of your friends by a significant margin unless you're willing to shell out some cash. Sniping is the most expensive role in airsoft, excepting probably the gunner role, and that only because of ammo costs.
  12. http://www.airsoftretreat.com/forums/index.php?topic=56248.0 Being a sniper isn't for everyone. Given the fast pace of airsoft, most people DO have more fun playing assault. It's the very rare person on here who actually DOES play regularly or at all, even rarer for that person to actually play in decent sized skirmishes (16+ people), and even less likely that they stick with sniping. Based on what I've seen here, most of the advice you've gotten is from people who either aren't very effective snipers, or else people that don't play. That being said, sniping can be both fun and effective. Assuming you're willing to shell out 500-1600 dollars, you'll be able to outrange an AEG. But deathfromamile doesn't know what he's talking about when he says most BASR's can outrange most AEG's. That's simply not true. Most AEG's will be able to outrange or equal the performance of virtually any bolt-action platform, excepting the most heavily upgraded ones, and a good long-range sniping platform will cost you far more than a good AEG. Even the best ones will only be able to outrange a good AEG by around 50 feet, and that can be covered by a fast moving enemy in a matter of seconds. The primary advantage of the bolt-action isn't range. Heck, on many fields, you won't even be able to find positions to take long-range shots, and opportunities will be very rare. The real advantage, if you're shooting, is stealth. You're only firing one shot, and it's going to be very hard for the enemy to figure out where you are. Snipers are primarily useful as squad fire support, or as recon elements. For most people, these roles are boring. Sniping isn't like a video game where you sneak off and try to get a perfect shot. Many people play that way; every single one of them is a waste of space on a team, and a detriment to have around. I'd much rather have another assaulter who will follow orders than some useless lone-wolf sniper, who will often get only one kill or none, while everyone else will be completing objectives and eliminating large amounts of enemies. So, what exactly is your play style? Chances are, your friend was right. It really takes a lot of commitment to stay with sniping. Airsoft sniping is fundamentally different from sniping in real life in some key ways, because the engagement distance is so much shorter, and the pace is much faster. Read over the guide I linked you, and decide for yourself whether that's the way you want to play.
  13. Actually, no, the airbreak mod probably will not put you over 500. It will probably put you at 430-450 tops.
  14. Emphasis on little... Most people end up replacing all of the parts that are theoretically better in the TM anyways. No matter which one you get, you'll end up replacing the cylinder internals, sears, barrel, and bucking. At that point, the difference is negligible, and the TM is hardly worth the extra 100 odd dollars. They make aftermarket upgrades for the TM for a reason. Both guns are upgrade platforms. Why waste the money on "higher quality" parts that you're just going to replace anyways? If you plan on doing a full upgrade and replacing the hopup and cylinder as well, there's literally no reason to get a TM, as all you're keeping is the receiver, stock, bolt handle, and outer barrel.
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