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airsoftglen

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About airsoftglen

  • Rank
    ASF Citizen
  • Birthday 12/27/1990

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  • AIM
    gangsta glen180
  • Website URL
    http://
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Maryland
  • Interests
    snowboarding, wakeboarding, longboarding, kayaking, xbox, photography, mountain biking, golf, pretty much anything outside. <br />Oh yea, and airsoft...

Previous Fields

  • Airsoft Replicas Owned
    a good amount, but its always changing :P
  1. haha wooow, super necro! 2007. Thats impressive.
  2. Came across this on my facebook a while back, been looking for information but came up with nothing. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1...3733&type=1 Anyone has any ideas on release date/price? Looks gnarly.....
  3. Yeah, that was my original plan, ended up doing that. It is basically the same as the old system, just with a larger diameter screw due to the tapping. Does the job I suppose. Thanks for the input
  4. Quite the gun wall you guys have. If I didn't know how to work on guns you guys would definitely be in consideration.
  5. Looks great! I too am curious about the battery situation. And me personally, definitely the long set-up.
  6. Thanks for the reply. Although, do you mind elaborating or explaining a bit differently. I don't really understand what you just said.
  7. Hello all, I have been trying to work on this AUG project for quite some time now. Ive gotten all the other parts down, excpet for the electrical system... I looked up previous threads on how to wire an AUG mosfet, due to their unique design, but haven't been able to quite figure it out yet. This is the thread I was using: http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/Aug-Mosf...ng-t122169.html However, where I hit a roadblock is my wires: I seem to only have two in the front, where as most models used in videos and diagrams have three in the front. Also, the schematics that ExtremeFire gave to me weren't much help as I assume they are meant for normal V2/V3 gearboxes. If someone could shed some insight I'd greatly appreciate it. Best regards
  8. It goes in the magazine, that little valve (normally brass looking?) that pops up and down on top of the mag, inside that. Hope that makes sense.
  9. Those are for reliability and endurance in the trigger grouping. They will make your gun last longer, true, but Id wait for your stock parts to break before buying those. If you want FPS gains you might want to look into getting a longer barrel, upgraded nozzle, or possibly higher-flow magazine valves. I know Evike sells the "500 fps" nozzle, but it is a bit controversial. I have one, it does shoot about 500 fps, but there are are issues. Others have reported you have to tweak it, some are reporting them breaking early on. The tweaking has definitely been true with mine. It doesn't shoot quite like stock, the nozzle sticks a bit, but it is an ongoing effort to tune it. But besides that, I think the only other option is a N-Pas kit, which I am not knowledgeable on really, except it allows you to adjust the fps I believe. Other than those, maybe rig your gun to HPA? That will be far costlier and heavier work required though.
  10. With mine I installed the WE G36E extended kit. This came with a longer barrel. I also threw in a new bucking, it uses VSR buckings so I just swapped in a nice one of those. For FPS increase: I bought a nozzle kit off of Evike a little while back. It is advertised as the 500 fps nozzle, and honestly, it does just that. First shots tend to be anywhere from 520-540fps. Then the next couple shots will be around 480-500, and then it settles to a consistent 420-450. http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?products_id=35699 Eventually I am going to be hooking mine up to an external air rig so I can hit a consistent 500fps every shot, but with the nature of greengas/propane, that just cant happen.
  11. Ok, So I have had this M40 project going on for a few years, and I am almost "done". Recently though, I ran into a bit of a snag. I bought new parts for my trigger housing and bolt, BUT, as I went to go test-fire, I realized that my Hop-up adjstment screw has been stripped. NORMALLY, there is a little round wheel on top of the rail mount, but what I have, is this: What I had to do with this set up, is use a GRUB SCREW to increase/decrease hop. However, like said, now that the hole is stripped. Also, I have a VSR CONVERSION. In my eyes, my options are: 1) Re-tapping the thread (not preferred) 2) figuring out a new system to adjust the hop up (more preferred, I hate having to take my scope off to adjust the hop up) OR 3) Simply buying a new bolt housing for my gun. (I would rather not do this for I really like the look of the m40a3 rail mount.) Also, I have no idea where to find a bolt housing...... Anyone have any ideas? I'll try and get photos up soon to give people a better idea of what I am talking about. Thanks!!!
  12. Disco!!! Oh mah lawd, those are all beautiful, but that RPK-74 is hot sauce! I was trying to figure out how to make one myself, but failed... Any solo shots of that? Stunning piece. I should snag some photos of my G39e to add to this thread.
  13. The m700/m24/m40 variants use Remington 700 Short Action BDL stocks. However, be ready to do a little dremeling to get everything to fit. I made a quick picture guide a while back when I made a Varmint stock for my m40a3.
  14. Wow man what a gun! Those front grips are interesting. At first glance I thought they were polymer (with the top ridges), but ebony stained wood, interesting. Where are you going about getting flathop installed?
  15. I do agree with you there. Regardless, its still quite nice looking in my eyes; I would hope so for that price.
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