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Irkie500

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About Irkie500

  • Rank
    ASF Citizen
  • Birthday 06/25/1991

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Rochester, NY
  • Interests
    Airsoft, anything related to tuning cars(if you have questions pm me and ill try to help) Watching good movies, talking with friends, watching youtube videos on a rainy day, playing hockey.

Previous Fields

  • Airsoft Replicas Owned
    JG M16A4 DMR, P14 WE 1911, UTG drop leg holster with mag pouch.
  1. I installed all of my upgrades just fine except the hammer spring. When everything is fully seated and in position the hammer has almost zero tension on it. That small black metal piece that goes into the trigger assembly must be in the wrong spot, but for the life of me I myself can not figure out how it goes in there, nor did I find a guide or video that goes over disassembley. If anyone could offer some advise I would be very greatfull.
  2. I would actually advise against shaving down the BBU. I did this mod myself and after shaving it down sometimes the hammer will not fully engage. That nub on the bottom of the BBU acutally presses the hammer into place, shaving it down, while a smoother action can sometimes half :censored2: the hammer. Some nice DIY mods however that will improve efficiency of the gun, would be to sand down the guide rails of the lower frame, and the rails on the bottom of the slide. Removing the paint and making it a smooth surface creates less friction when cycling the slide thus better gas consumption. Also placing a small piece of teflon tape where the hop up bucking seals around the inner barrel will create a better seal and help boost a bit of fps and again better gas consumption.
  3. Hammer springs hit the valve harder on the magazine releasing more gas thus more power, however the downside is the gas consumption goes up a bit. I would like to say though I have never heard of it being that extreme. Both my high cappa 4.3 and 1911 MEU have spring upgrades and they can get through a full mag, sometimes a bit more. I would recommend the following: -Check mags for silent leaks (submerge in water with gas in magazine) -Use teflon tape around the seal of hop of bucking and barrel, a better seal means better efficiency. -The rubber piece at the top of the magazine next to feed lip also could be taped for a better seal. Its rumored that the upgraded NineBall part offers up to an extra 20fps due to better seal and design. -Sand all slide rails on frame and slide, less friction=less effort to move the slide. Doing this on my 1911 got me an extra 2-3 shots per mag. For 30 mins of work with various sand papers thats not bad. -Switch back to the stock hammer spring to see if that truly is the issue. If your shots per mag climb with the stocker then I would assume that is the issue. For now thats all I have, if you have any more questions let me know.
  4. Reserving this spot for my KJW 226 build. Waiting for my parts from ehobby to get in. Pro Arms 6.01 steel tightbore Guarder Stainless Spring Guide Action Aluminium Cylinder Bulb/Piston Element 150% Recoil/Hammer Spring Nineball Striker Kit Things I still need: Nineball Gas Route Some type of enhanced valve
  5. My interest in gas rifles and handguns has grown recently and I need a new project to start working on. My idea that I would like to see come full circle is a gas sniper rifle that can hit a man size target at 400ft or farther. Here is my list of what I think I need feel free to add on. EdGi custom barrel 850mm 6.01 Guarder 70% bucking with SCS nub HPA rig if necessary Reinforced trigger parts ect. After that im not sure what else I can do. Im aware fps isnt everything and im hoping with that long inner barrel it will give me a nice boost. Im no stranger to custom builds but they have all been pistols. Anyone who can offer ideas are welcome.
  6. I need to figure out how to remove the piston from the housing, here is a pic. I have tried removing any pins/bolts I could find and no luck. Also tried to twist/pry it off no luck there either. Does anyone know how to get it out? The reason I ask is because im having a friend cnc machine an aluminium housing for me.
  7. Hey guys thanks for all the responses. Ive got a friend who is going to give me a hand on Sunday with figuring out what the hell is wrong as well as doing a reshim and install some metal bearings im getting from a spare gearbox I have. I have so far tried disconnecting the motor from the gearbox and it is running just fine under no load so I conclude it is something inside the box that is causing it to bind up on me.
  8. Trying to put the bevel gear back in place will be the death of me when I open that thing. This is why I like GBB so much simpler, but I still need a backup weapon, hence the M4.
  9. Just messed with the motor adjustment levels and its a no go with that either. It will cycle after 4-5 trigger pulls sometimes. If I go full auto and hold the trigger the fuse gets super hot and starts smoking...
  10. To start the gun is an APS M4 standard length. It already comes stock with low resistance wiring so I know thats not a problem there. Here is the problem, no matter what battery I try 8.4, 9.6 or any other it doesn't matter I blow whatever fuse is connected and then the wiring and battery get really hot. The gun cycles only sometimes and other times the motor locks up and then the wiring starts smoking. When the gun first arrived it worked just fine until one day I pulled the trigger and the fuse went. I bought a fuse that finally wont blow up but does get a light orange which is not good at all. If at all possible I want to avoid going in the gearbox, I hate working on electrics and its a total pain. Anyone have ideas on whats happening?
  11. So for the RIS would I need a 2 piece unit to replace the plastic hand guards? I was thinking of a 7.5 inch outer barrel and the possibility of folding iron sights or a compact red dot. I also have a spare stock to put on, its a Madbull SOPMOD stock 3 position. My only issue with that is how to get the original buffer tube off as it does not use a standard screw, instead in an allen. This creates a problem because I don't have one long enough to get in there.
  12. If someone would be kind enough to explain how to covert from non ris standard length to ris cqb length it would be greatly appriciated. I don't know what kind of outer barrel works with what ris and how it attaches. ASGI has something from JBU that is a one piece barrel, ris and tightbore all in one for 170, any good or should I pice my own together? The base gun is an APS M4 used as a sniper backup so I need it short and compact.
  13. Alright ill see what I can do
  14. Gun is a KJW 10/22 GBB EdGi 6.01 450mm tightbore RA Tech Hop Up Bucking Cardboard Hop Up mod (self invented, gives more control over the hop by adding spacers between the bucking and adjustment screw) What it used to look like (Tacticool version) New cleaner look using a Hogue rubberized stock for a real steel Ruger 10/22 bull barrel Fully polished trigger box done my myself with a Dremel and a lot of patience
  15. Yes I did, its pretty hard to mess that up because the way the bucking is made it holds its position on the barrel really well. Double checked before I put it in.
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