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Everything posted by yee245

  1. It's not absolutely clear to me from his post that he wants to shoot them. Are there no possible other reasons something might want to "work with" relatively lightweight metal balls (compared to steel bearings) that are not necessarily load-bearing? Maybe I'm terrible at finding things, but can you point me in the direction where I could conveniently find some 6mm or 15/64" aluminum balls for less than $16 per 1000, tight tolerances not necessary.
  2. Just a thought, but perhaps he's asking about the material properties and manufacturer because he's looking to use them as bearing balls (or some other related purpose), not as airsoft projectiles. I vaguely recall seeing a video on tribology that was using a whole bunch of bearings in some spinning system to simulate something. It might be easier and/or cheaper to get these domestically than to make a bulk order for bearings from China, or something. Just because someone asks about metal BBs, doesn't mean they intend to shoot them.
  3. You could look around for a Classic Army P90 hop up chamber, part P408M. I think at one point, I saw their plastic chamber on sale somewhere as well, but I think for the most part, that model number covers the metal version which appears to come with basically a complete chamber and all the parts to go with it. Then, of course, there's Marui Parts Showcase on eBay that from time to time used to have TM P90 chambers. I don't know how often they restock the parts. And then yeah, there's the Prowin. I don't know if you've seen my video on YouTube with my take on the PW chamber. If I recall, I demonstrate what it did to the consistency of my TM P90. Needless to say, I was not impressed by it. I'm not entirely sure what differences in tolerances there are between the different brands, so I don't know what sort of tweaking might be required depending on which brand you get.
  4. Seems that the domain registration is slightly different from what it used to be, but still "linked" to ASMS. http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/Idiot-Mo...&p=18601707 If I had to guess, though, ASMS probably made an agreement with the manufacturer in China (goldenball.cn) to be the official distributor in the USA, so they created the domain and the site. ASMS does appear to legitimately get their products from Goldenball in China, since there is a link to the site from the Chinese site, so there are some actual ties. I don't know if they're still calling any other Goldenball BBs counterfeits, but I think that's just dumb. To tell me that product that I bought that came from (presumably) the same manufacturer, but before your "company" existed, is counterfeit, but yours is the genuine product, is just plain unreasonable to me. If I recall, wholesalers like PointAct were selling Goldenball BBs made in China before Goldenball USA was formed in 2010, and all of a sudden, they're saying those are fake, particularly when the products are pictured on the manufacturer's site. As a side note, the Goldenball USA site is worthless. I just tried clicking links from the home page, and they all come up with missing page errors.
  5. ... or referenced by alternative means, usually with the chemical name or a CAS number. For R-152a, you may see it listed as 1,1-Difluoroethane, difluoroethane, or CAS#75-37-6.
  6. Neither the ICS nor G&G would not be a drop-in fit, and I'm not entirely sure whether either would fit even with moderate amounts of custom work. Left: G&G (550) Middle: TM (550) Right: ICS (551) Your better bets would be to find a Hurricane receiver or maybe look at the new JG Sigs that have blowback, since they supposedly come with metal receivers, though I don't know how much may have been changed internally to accommodate the blowback feature.
  7. What I'm saying is that my orders (which have been sprinkled over the last 6 years) have apparently had the shipping label printed at a later stage... after the order had been packed. Unless you're debating that fact. Doesn't PayPal do something "shady" like this as well, in sending an automated email saying that an item has been "shipped" once you create the shipping label? Please show me where I can buy a new Magpul PDR for under $250. That is how much I paid for the one I bought from them the other month with one of these "fake discounts". Perhaps you consider Amazon to also have shady business practices as well with the way they suggest you're saving large percentages off the list prices, when you're really only saving a few percent off the street price, particularly with memory cards. Unless that's different, just because.
  8. So, are you saying that you assumed that they would partial ship the order, and when they didn't it was their fault for delaying the order, when it says in their policies that orders with items that are out of stock or backordered might be delayed? And, despite them delivering an apparently hard to find item (I presume you got the item), they are untrustworthy. Maybe they've changed their shipping system, but I've never had any of my orders from Airsplat give me a notification of shipment or a tracking number until the order actually shipped, which has usually been a couple days after making the order. I'm apparently one of the only people that hasn't had seemingly "terrible" experiences with Airsplat, but it just seems that they didn't meet your expectations, and therefore, they are out to swindle you. Or, maybe, I just can't complain about them when they have 35% off or 50% off coupons that can be applied to items that other stores exclude from coupons that have fairly standardized pricing... Sure, I won't buy everything from them, but when I can get something from them for 25% less than any other reputable store, sure, I'll pull the trigger. As airborne says, there are basically no airsoft stores that keep everything that you need in stock all the time. I've had good dealings with ASGI, Evike, Airsplat, Airsoft Atlanta, AEX, Airsoft Unlimited, Clandestine Airsoft, eHobby Asia, Redwolf, WGC, UNCompany, among others. I have no particular loyalties, and I generally look for who has the best price on the particular items I'm looking for.
  9. If you're looking for the Sig 556, you're pretty much looking at King Arms if you want to have a full length rifle as well as a compact version of the same brand, as KA makes both a regular length as well as a compact. They also make a DMR-style rifle, but they're a little harder to come by. There are rather limited options for Sig 556s, though, and the other main option for the standard length Sig 556 is the Cybergun branded one. You might also come across the JP (Jin Peng) Sig 556. The KA has "blowback," but it can be disabled. I would say that either the KA or Cybergun model is probably fine, but if I had to pick a basic Sig 556, I probably would go with a Cybergun. The KA has a proprietary long nozzle due to how it deals with its hop up chamber, and it's usually going to be much more expensive. Now, if you're looking for the more standard Sig rifles (550/551/552/553), my personal opinion is that G&G makes the best Sigs on the market. It would then be followed by ICS, then TM, then JG/Cybergun, then Classic Army (and then DE below that, if you considered their LPEG an option, which you shouldn't). Some of it does depend on the particular model you're looking for. You mention you're looking for a battlefield rifle and then also its CQB equivalent. Does that mean you're looking into a full length rifle (like the Sig 550) and a Sig 552 as a short option? Or, would you be looking at something like getting a Sig 551 and a Sig 552 in terms of size? Or something else? In any case, here are my thoughts on the different variants. Sig 550: Options: G&G, JG, and TM. Well, I think the clear answer here is the G&G. I'll start with the TM. It's creaky, and plastic, and long. You can sometimes find them with working burst chips, but they're not particularly common. From what I recall, basically, the JG is going to be just as good externally. It just won't have a burst mode, and maybe the stock performance won't be as up to par, but it would probably be "easily" upgraded. So, with the JG, it's plastic, just like the TM, since it's a clone of the TM. They used to be pretty cheap, but nowadays, it's more common to find the Cybergun branded versions of them which is basically the same gun, and they're probably about like $180 new, though I haven't really looked at prices recently. And, the obvious choice would be the G&G, which has a steel receiver, much better quality polymer grips/stock, and just is overall a better gun. It has its quirks, like battery compartment and stock magazine compatibility. I think there's really no question when it comes to which Sig 550 is the best, but the G&G is generally comes in around $360-400 new, so it's on the slightly more expensive side. Something to note is that of the options, the G&G is by far the heaviest Sig 551: Options: ICS and TM. There might also be a full metal JG with blowback somewhere, since they were "announced" awhile back, but I haven't really followed, and they likely aren't readily available, if at all. Anyway, if you're looking for a Sig 551, your best bet is the ICS. TM Sig 551s are relatively rare (especially with a good burst chip), but the ICS is going to be better overall, and they're reasonably well regarded. They have a metal receiver (though not steel, like the G&G Sigs have). They have several options for externals. You can get black or dark earth, RIS or standard handguard, standard barrel or long barrel. Basically, there's one real option for a Sig 551, ICS, and it has plenty of variants to fit your preferences. Sig 552: Options: G&G, ICS, TM, JG (or the Cybergun rebrand of it), and CA. Here's where there's the most "competition" between different brands. Of those, the one I don't have is the TM, so I'm just making some assumptions here, but I would order them in the order I listed, primarily based on the externals and overall feel of the guns. Internals can be upgraded, and they can all probably be made to shoot similarly, so overall feel I think is a greater factor. And, given the compact nature of the gun, if you're using it primarily as a CQB weapon, long range and such isn't so much of a priority. The TM and JG are going to be similar in terms of externals, as they're both plastic, and the JG is a clone of the TM. They can fit a standard 8.4V NiMH battery in the receiver, so you can probably fit some some of the 7.4V lipos if you wanted to go that route. Being plastic, they're moderately lightweight. There's also a metal-bodied JG with blowback out there, but I haven't really seen much about them. And, the CA, from what I remember of last time I took it out, it's probably going to be on par with the JG, but it's more expensive, and it seemed like the body flexed a lot. For the price you can usually find used JG Sigs vs the CA, I'd lean towards the JG between the two, unless the color is a big factor since the CA is all black. Now, in my opinion, the main options the Sig 552 are the ICS and G&G. As I've mentioned before, I like the G&G much more than the ICS, primarily due to overall quality of the externals, though the ICS is still decent. Either would probably be fine, so some of it might be up to availability and/or price. The ICS, I think, is usually closer to the lower- to mid-$200s, and the G&G is generally closer to $360-400 new. Both have the ability to separate the upper and lower receivers quickly, so access to the hop up chamber and barrel assembly for removal is easy for both (though the G&G's hop up chamber is held in by a screw, so it takes marginally longer to remove the barrel assembly). The G&G has a shorter and thinner grip, which is apparently closer to the real steel, and the ICS does have an aftermarket alternate more ergonomic grip available. It is important to note that the G&G Sigs all use a short type motor, where every other Sig (to my knowledge) uses a medium type, which will just be less common if you want to upgrade. Both of these options have a very small battery compartment, so either you're going to need to use certain lipos or you're going to need to run the battery externally. The ICS does come with a cheap plastic battery box, but it can only hold certain sizes of battery as well. Both have metal receivers, but they are both feel similar in weight, though the G&G feels slightly heavier, likey due to the steel. Between the two, the G&G is a little more "refined." The receiver pin locks in the G&G, the selector switch is smoother on the G&G and clicks better into position, the trigger guard on the G&G snaps into the 3 positions, the bolt assembly on the G&G is easier to move and is more "solid", the G&G has metal rails instead of plastic on the ICS, etc. Sig 553: Option: G&G. Well, technically, you could consider the ICS Sig 552 with a LB kit basically the same. Otherwise, it's basically the Sig 552 with a LB kit and an upper rail with no drum sight. It comes with slightly different included rails as G&G's Sig 552 offering, and the front sight isn't hooded. They're not particularly common, but they're out there. Overall if you're looking to stick with one brand for both lengths, I would say that you probably couldn't go wrong with getting the G&G Sig 550 and Sig 552, or the ICS Sig 551 and Sig 552. I would say a lot comes down to your budget, as it's probably cheaper to get the ICS combo. To an extent, the color might be a factor. The ICS versions have the option of black or dark earth, where the G&G only comes with OD furniture. The weight is also something to keep in mind. The G&G Sig 550 is definitely a heavy gun with its steel receiver and thick outer barrel. The ICS Sig 551, for its size, is much lighter. There aren't all that many reviews on these models, but from what I perceive of some of the reviews of the ICS Sigs, some people saying that the ICS is the best likely haven't seen or used a G&G. Things may have changed since I last watched a lot of those reviews, though. It's also worth noting that there are some weird compatibility "issues" when looking at the scope mounts and mags, depending on which one you get. The AATV review is a pretty good comparison, though the explanation of how to change the Sig 550's battery is not the easy way to change the battery. Note to self: I need to update my profile, as my Sig collection has grown. One of these days, I should put together a picture/video comparison of the different Sigs as well... tl;dr: I have too many Sig rifles and I would recommend the G&G ones over the ICS ones, but either are probably fine.
  10. The picture on that Amazon link that The Great Dane posted definitely shows a King Arms P90. Its most distinctive trait is the upper rail. The $170 price seems typical of the KA, especially when shipping is not included in the price. It's comparable in price to buying it from some of the major online airsoft stores, after coupons. As for that used one on Amazon, the seller does mention it's a KA, and it comes with a lot of other accessories, not just the gun (though the price is a bit high, but you see that all the time with people trying to sell things to less-educated buyers). All signs indicate (to me) that Amazon listing is for the KA. It's a bit surprising to me how much prices on the clone P90s has gone up. I got one of my KS P90s for about $90 on sale a few years ago, new from a major retailer. And weren't the E90 like $155 (with the KS P90s at the time selling for like $130)? I guess that's the markup for the licensing... Anyway, I'd look more into reviews of the King Arms P90 if you want more information. There aren't too many reviews to my knowledge (though I haven't really looked), and there's also going to be some confusion, since King Arms has 2 "versions" of their P90--one has a quick change spring guide, the other doesn't. As a generality, I would say that if it mentions that it comes with a battery, it's the version without the quick change spring.
  11. The battery you're trying to charge is a 7.2V battery, not 8.4V, right?
  12. Frame rates and resolution aren't everything when it comes to the amount of memory being used. The Canon Rebel lineup generally shoot video at about 40-50Mbps (or about 7-8MB/s). In comparison, from what I've seen of most consumer-level camcorders, video bitrates are often 24Mbps (3MB/s) and below, and I'm sure there are exceptions (as some might give you 35Mbps). So, for the same amount of footage out of the Canon DSLR at say 1080p 30fps, you're going to take up twice the memory as that same footage on a typical camcorder at the same frame rate and resolution. Now, with the Canon DSLR, if you're willing, you could look into the Magic Lantern firmware to adjust bitrates and frame rates, so you might be able to get 720p 30fps at a lower bitrate, but I haven't tried it, so I can't really confirm what your results might be. For reference, I own a bunch of Canon equipment: T3i, 7D, 5D3, HF M40, HF G10. I don't record any video of airsoft (I use them for other things), so I can't really give any insight there. But I'll tell you, there's little chance I think I'd take my 5D3 and 70-200 out on an airsoft field... Also, I'm not really up to date with what's available in the camcorder market (I've just been eyeing the G30/XA20/XF100, and we use an XF300 at work, but they're really all beyond what I really need). As I see it, if you're looking to shoot video, get a video camera, not a DSLR. Some of the reasons I would pick a camcorder over a DSLR for what you describe would be autofocus, zoom range, battery life, recording time limits, and cost. Let me know if you'd like my more detailed analysis on those reasons.
  13. Yeah, I'm going to go ahead and say that's not a King Arms Sig 556. Reasons: 1: The trademarks are printed on, rather than stamped (cast?) into the actual receiver. 2: Hooded front sight 3: General description of the gun If you look up pictures on the web of the King arms versus the Cybergun SIG 556, you'll see the differences in those first 2 reasons (the 3rd reason is just a general thing that I don't think the KA version is referenced as/linked to the SIG SAUER, whereas the Cybergun has that branding on its box). The pictures on that ad clearly indicate (to me) that it is not the King Arms version. Here are two pictures from my own King Arms of those particular spots:
  14. The simplest solution is that when it's fired, the bolt should move, since it's a blowback model, though it might not, since it can be disabled. The next simple method is to just look at the hop up chamber and see what type it is. If it's an M4-type hop up chamber (rotating wheels), then it's a KA. There will be a plastic spacer separating the chamber itself from the gearbox. If it's a drum type, it's a Cybergun, and it should be right up against the gearbox. I'm sure there are other ways of telling the difference, but since I don't have a Cybergun, and I don't have my King arms out, I can't really tell you without looking up pictures on the web to look for minor details. From a basic search on Google for the shorty, they were a lot cheaper domestically than the ~$400 you say it would have cost to get it from overseas (seemed to retail just under $300 with free shipping), or the $400-420+ that the 556 holo went for. Now, since I don't have a link to this particular ad, it's hard for me to know which version it actually is. Also, I just reread the thread, and for some reason, I could have sworn it said that the 556 had the metal rail, which is why I brought up the shorty. If it had been that, it would almost certainly be the King Arms, since there is no other maker of that model, but if it's just the regular full sized 556, yeah, there is a big price difference from the retail prices, but $160 would be good for either. If it's the King Arms, I'd say to go with that. $120 for a stock JG G36c seems like too much to me. While maybe not the best gauge of price, but I had gotten my G36k new from a retailer for $105 last year when they were unloading them, and back in the day (like 2008), I thought most of those JG clones were coming in under $120 new in the first place. I mean, I know I got my JG SIG for $105 back in 2008, which was around the timeframe of the good old JGs. I guess prices have gone up for the basic clones...
  15. The short version with the RIS isn't as expensive as the original full length one (especially the full length one with a full length rail, which alone is worth a lot). There are relatively simple ways of identifying a King Arms from a non-King Arms, especially in person.
  16. Well, there's a difference between some G3 hop up chambers and SIG hop up chambers. Since the G3 uses a V2 gearbox, and a SIG uses a V3, the front of the gearbox needs to be taken into consideration. The V2 gearbox does not have a screw above the air nozzle like a V3 does. I don't have a G3 (I just bought that chamber one time, thinking it would work as a spare for my SIG), so I can't say which, if any, if the SIG chambers may or may not work, and whether they'd need slight external modification. As a side note, it's possible some G3s might actually come with a different chamber than in those pictures, one more similar to a SIG's chamber.
  17. This question seems to come up from time to time... If I had to guess, it would be http://www.batteryspace.com/connectoradapt...malefemale.aspx
  18. I believe SIG hop up chambers should also fit.
  19. Actually, the TM P226 does have a safety. If you push the takedown lever to the left of the gun, it will pop in about a millimeter, and engage a physical safety inside the frame of the gun, preventing the trigger from being pull all the way back.
  20. QUOTE (hunterseeker5 Apr 3 2013, 08:14 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Ammo Selection: *snip* In summary it should simply be noted that a barrel is only as good as the ammo which performs in it, ergo given the plethora of barrels and the limited selection of high quality ammo, it is logical to choose the barrel by the ammo not the ammo by the barrel if one were to seek optimal performance. Demonstrably the finest rounds ever marketed have been in 5.93mm, so users looking to partake in the absolute best should design and purchase accordingly. Did you mean 5.953mm, as in 15/64" ceramic rounds? While talking about BBs is a little off topic from barrels, would you agree that SGMs and BBBMAXs have been and are held in high regard (despite their relatively limited availability and usage now)? And if so, what are your thoughts about whether performance (with regard to BBs in a barrel of any given diameter) is related more to their nominal diameters or to the consistency of the BBs (and disregarding weight as much as possible)? Those three BBs types come from fairly different ranges in the diameter spectrum, with SGMs being marketed as 5.97mm (the largest average diameter I've personally measured in any BBs), ceramic rounds being 5.953mm (right around the "middle" but slightly larger than "average"), and Biovals averaging close to 5.90mm (some of the smallest on average). QUOTE (hunterseeker5 Apr 3 2013, 08:14 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Prometheus: *snip* Its important to note that quite a few counterfeits of this barrel have entered the market, so if a price seems to good to be true it is. Genuine barrels have a true orange (not yellow-ish) flame on the front, and multiple bar-codes one the back all but one redacted by hand with a black marker. Also, regarding the counterfeit Prometheus barrels, I'd say the packing on the genuine barrels is more more on the yellow side of orange, and the counterfeit packaging is on the red side of orange. But, just to put reference the particular thread that may help with identification, Counterfeit Prometheus Barrels has some pictures.
  21. The connector is probably this one: http://www.batteryspace.com/connectoradapt...malefemale.aspx Most people would recommend that you replace that connector (on the gun and battery) with something else, like Deans.
  22. What would be the point of detecting power from the main battery? I apparently missed that half sentence in there about still running off the tracer unit's internal battery, but did see the part about splicing into the main battery, which, under my assumption, meant taking power from the main battery. So, are you asking why tracer units aren't made as two separate components--a detection unit being plugged into your main battery, and a strobe unit being powered by a different battery--instead of a single self-contained unit?
  23. Not according to the dimensions that are listed in the picture... not that the picture is at all accurate. It says that the 8.4V battery is composed of 6 cells. The simple answer is just that the eBay listing has a lot of errors in it, and if it is in fact a mini type battery, the advertised capacity is wrong, and grossly overstated. Mini type batteries using 2/3A cells are generally going to cap out around 1500-1600mAh. Large type batteries using Sub-C cells can get up to about 5000mAh (so their 6800mAh battery packs are also exaggerated as well). If you look in the "Less common batteries" section here, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_battery_sizes, you can learn more about different cell sizes, and battery packs will be made of multiple cells.
  24. Assuming the tracer unit is going to flash every time a BB is inside it (instead of having an always-on internal illumination, which, in my experience is not as good if it's being done as a muzzle device), how else are you going to determine when the BB is actually in the tracer unit, so you know when to trigger the flash? If it was being timed based on something relative to the firing system, a .20g tracer is going to be in that tube at a much different time than a .25g tracer, meaning you'd have to reconfigure it whenever you changed your BB weight, internals, etc. Or, if you have a gun with say a 229mm barrel, that time from when the BB starts getting propelled and when it enters the tracer unit is going to be very different than if you had a 509mm barrel. Basically, if you're triggering a flash to go off to illuminate the BB, the easiest way is to just have a sensor detect the BB. Also, if you dryfire and no BB is actually fired, it won't need to flash. Or, it might be that a "close enough" estimation could work, but I feel like there's a lot of variation in when a BB is leaving the barrel (BB weight, barrel length, output velocity, etc) that is just simpler to not have to deal with a trial and error method that is tuned for a specific setup. A photogate is not all that expensive to make. As for battery power through the main AEG battery, it's probably mostly a matter of aesthetics. It's more realistic looking to not have wires randomly coming out of your silencer going into some other part of your gun. It makes it a conveniently self-contained unit that can be swapped to any other gun, including gas guns, pretty quickly. There's no need to then have to go connect it up to the next gun's battery. Not all electric guns will have a convenient place to run the power from the tracer unit to the main battery (like ones that house a battery in the stock), and thus, you'd need some specific wiring setup for different models. As you said, it's a matter of looking good. Not that it's too much of an issue, but there's also the matter of input voltage. It's probably easy enough to just regulate it to some set value, but when using an internal rechargeable battery (in the tracer unit) or when using 4 AAA batteries (that are going to be within a relatively narrow nominal voltage range), you don't have to worry about whether your end user decides to use a 7.4V/11.1V/14.8V/etc lipo, or a 7.2V/8.4V/9.6V/10.8V/12V/etc NiCD/NiMH, or any other voltage. You know what your source voltage is going to be. If you want to "go cheap," you can probably put in the work and make your own hop up tracer unit for very little money, and you can have that run off your main battery. But, again, as there are different models, and different battery setups, and such, it's not as easy to just sell as a drop in part, unlike a tracer unit that you can buy, load with batteries, toss on any gun with the right threading, and just have it work.
  25. yee245

    Matrix BB's

    It does look like they carry them. Airsoft Atlanta does as well. And I'm sure other places carry them too. http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/708-BB-GB4...der-Bottle.aspx http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/2892-BB-GB...0rd-Bottle.aspx http://www.airsoftatlanta.com/Tracer-glow-...t-BBs-s/282.htm
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