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Everything posted by airborne101

  1. Yeah. Springs are around $20 or less. It requires basic mechanical ability and opening up the gearbox. There are plenty of videos on youtube showcasing how to do this.
  2. You can change the spring out to a lower power. Something like an M110 would bring you down to around 360fps with .20g.
  3. Thats a 4 wire MOSFET. They aren't as common, but it is in no way "redneck engineering". Also, soldering the wires directly to the motor is actually better than with connectors as there is less resistance since you are taking the connector out. As long as the gun cycles fine, there is nothing wrong with what you posted in the photo.
  4. Haha yeah, I've been checking, deleting, and banning IPs every day for the past week. No need to report em.
  5. Solidworks master race! I tried Inventor one time, and the sheet metal feature is archaic.
  6. Welcome back Klash! Are you an architectural drafter or mechanical/engineering drafter?
  7. Their performance out of the box is respectable. They will keep up with other stock guns. They are also upgradable. There are a multitude of batteries that you can use. In stock form, its best to use 7.4v lipos or 8.4v and 9.6v NIMH. Lipos are newer technology and pack more power into a smaller package than Nimh. Im assuming the gun is wired to the front handguard, so this would be a good lipo to start with. It would also perform well in a lightly upgraded gun so you have some growth room. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-1800mah-2s-25-50c-lipo-airsoft-pack-1.html Generally speaking, yes, you can use any of the M4 mags out there today. However there is a caveat. Airsoft companys produce parts to their own spec, but it is loosely based on Tokyo Marui specs, so not every brand of mag fits every other brand of gun. Tokyo Marui mags should work without a problem. Classic Army, G&G, and G&P high capacity mags should all also be good. If you are interested in mid capacity mags (100rds or so, does not have the winding wheel on the bottom), MAG 100rd and King Arms 120rd are both great places to start.
  8. Yes, that is the G&G green and it is pretty good. Any soft packing will be good, however the Maple Leaf packings with flat internal nubs perform a bit better than the standard round internal nub.
  9. By all means, go ahead. What kind of stuff do you currently have?
  10. Here are two videos that might help you install the R-hop better.
  11. My guess is the motor height screw backed out, and that cause the grinding sound and metal shavings. That pinion doesn't look awful and may still be usable. After you get the motor height set, some blue locktite on the screw should keep it in place.
  12. Are you talking about an ER hop? That requires you to lengthen the window. If you're only shooting .28g, then there isn't a need to go up to an ER hop. The R-hop is plenty sufficient to lift that round.
  13. I hardly use oil at all any more. Generally grease should be used for anything that slides, whereas oil should be used for things that are immersed (pins and such). I pretty much universally use Superlube on all parts, be it gears, compression parts, or the slides on my gbb pistols. It seems to last longer and stay in place better than oil. The only place I use oil is in the barrel, which I patch it dry to leave a very thin film on the inside of the bore. The theory goes that this helps reduce the buildup of plastic rub-off from the bbs, and requires less work to clean the barrel.
  14. AirsoftGI FMG4-A1: $100 shipped. This was the early/first versions of the series with the Lonex base. Includes the outer barrel as it is tapered and fits only that receiver. All you need is a rail, inner barrel and maybe a flash hider and you're ready to rock. Upgrades include a full cylinder and APEX Python MOSFET wired to Deans. With the shown 11.1v batteries (info below) and 455mm barrel it shoots 412fps +-2 and 21rps. Can remove the paint on the stock if desired. ZCI 455mm 6.02mm Barrel, R-hopped & lapped: SOLD Includes the hop up chamber. When paired with the gun above, it was reaching out to 200ft. Please note the price reflects the work/time put into this barrel. It has been lapped 5000 passes down to 0.25 micron as well as had the crown enhanced. A similar package from Clandestine Airsoft would be $125 and would not include the hop up unit. Lonex Flash Mag $10 shipped or free with the gun Works fine, holds 360rds. 1 Point Bungie Sling $6 shipped or free with the gun Does its job. G&G Crane Stock $25 shipped Includes buffer tube and mounting hardware ZOP Power 11.1v 5000mah 30C lipo $15 shipped If you're into redonkulously large batteries, this is for you. Large, works well, wired to Deans. This was included with a gun I bought, so no idea on how many cycles its had.
  15. I lurk. To be honest, Im slowing down with airsoft and getting into firearms. I still play occasionally, but not as much. Same goes with working on guns. Admin is taking a crack and bringing this place back, and I for one would love to see it back as the active metropolis that it was. I certainly hope with FB cracking down on airsoft sales and groups in general that it drives people back to the forums.
  16. You can cut #3 so that it pushes flat against it. When doing that, you can remove #1 from the gun completely.
  17. Lets address your 100meter minimum first. While not impossible (longer shots have been made), it is significantly more challenging with AEGs, made even more so by the fact that you have such a long barrel. Barrel length does not dictate range, and can actually hinder it. In your case, for your 100m minimum, it greatly hinders it because you simply don't have enough air volume in the cylinder. You need a higher cylinder air volume to barrel air volume than normal because you will need to push heavy bbs. .43g minimum, but you really need to consider .69g Zr02 bbs to be precise at that range. Those heavy rounds require more air, than say, a .20g or .30g bb. This means you need to actually shorten the barrel. You will need to use a 300mm barrel to get a 3:1 cylinder to barrel volume ratio as a starting point for .45g bbs. If you use .69g, you will need an even shorter barrel. I would recommend getting a bore up cylinder/piston head/cylinder head/air nozzle kit. Your gun uses a V3 gearbox so you could use a M190 spring. You will need new gears, preferably Seigetek Conceps 20:1 gears. If you purchase a 28TPA motor, you could use their 14:1 gears. You will also need a new motor. Something like an ASG 22000 motor which is 28TPA would be good. Even better if you want to wind you own armature and do something like 32TPA in a neodymium magnet can. To power all of this you will a powerful 11.1v lipo battery. If you use a M190 spring, 28tpa motor, on 14:1 gears, you will need a battery that can supply at minimum 37amps. I would pick something well above that. You will also need to install a high power MOSFET to handle that electrical load and protect your trigger contacts. For a barrel, you will want a high quality stainless steel barrel which you should then lap and install the R-hop or ER-hop. The inner barrel will need to be stabilized within the outer barrel.
  18. Try a different gearbox shell. Retro Arms has had QC and fit issues in the past, and I wouldn't put it past that the shell is the source of your problem.
  19. You keep refering to C like its a magical number for the battery. It's not. The number tells you very little without combining it with the MAH. When you refer to a battey, you need to refer to BOTH C and MAH. For example: 40C 1000mah battery 40*1.0=40amp discharge capability 20C 2000mah battery 20*2.0=40amp discharge capability both of those battery will perform very similarly. 10C 5000mah battery 10*5.0=50amp discharge capability 50C 750mah battery 50*0.75=37amp discharge capability the 10C 5000mah pack is bettery because it can supply more amps if needed.
  20. It's most likely your motor. Change that out and you should be fine. You can always go with a larger battery, but a 39 amp discharge capacity that your firefox has should be sufficient for your gun, provided you change the motor.
  21. SHS motors are rather power hungry, so they heat up quite a bit. You neglect to tell us what the MAH of the batteries are which makes it impossible to tell if they provide sufficient current. Firefox isn't a particularly great brand of lipos. Also internally, what does your gun have? Knowing all this may help us determine if it is a motor, battery, or build issue. Right now, we don't have a whole lot to go on diagnostically, other that motor.
  22. The Intellect will be the best Nimh out of what you linked. If you can find them, Elite are much better. For lipo's, these would be better and will fit. 7.4v https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-1300mah-2s-25-50c-lipo-airsoft-pack.html?___store=en_us 11.1v https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-1400mah-3s-15-25c-lipo-airsoft-pack-1.html?___store=en_us
  23. Arbitrary upgrading is rather pointless. You should have a goal or target to work towards. Range? ROF? Reliability?
  24. G&G makes bio's .33g in gray.
  25. Springs settle within the first few thousand rounds. It's a break in period of sort. Hard type springs like PDI and Prometheus will settle less than soft type springs like Systema. From what you have posted, your guns sounds to be operating properly and within reasonable expectations/parameters.
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