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About yayapfool

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  • Airsoft Replicas Owned
    JG BAR-10 Tanaka M40A1 KWA KMP9 TM MK23 ICS M4
  1. It's to hold an 8ci HPA tank If anyone finds this looking for the same help I was... SKD Tactical pulling through clutch: (PIG Rifle Stock Pack)
  2. Have you owned a stock pouch big enough to hold a soda can? What was it? Otherwise, what are some solid choices for a stock pouch? I'm leaning towards something like Modify's: Modify-Tech Co., Ltd. This option can be found pretty cheap as well, and appears to be able to hold wide objects, but I'd prefer a zipper: Matrix Sniper Cheek Pad w/ Built in MOLLE System & Modular Magazine Pouch. (OD), Accessories & Parts, External Parts, Stocks, M4 / M16 Ret. Stocks - Evike.com Airsoft Superstore To fit certain chunky parts, I'd prefer knowing if it can hold about the size of a soda can; If you know a pouch CANNOT fit a soda can, I would appreciate that knowledge as well! Any input welcome!
  3. Well ideally I'd prefer having a seamless transition between barrel and barrel extension- but I'm sure I could make the seam small.
  4. I'm considering doing some formal testing of my rifle's loudness given certain variables. Some cheap decibel meters available online measure at a rate of at least 30 observations per second, but I'm unsure if an average airsoft shot takes more than 1/30th of a second. I could probably capture the audio of a shot and measure myself somehow, but I'm wondering if anyone knows off the top of their head with some confidence (not sure how I'd go about measuring- this doesn't have to be a process): Anyone know the length of time an average airsoft shot's sound level is near peak? Thanks for reading.
  5. I'm having a custom barrel made for my sniper rifle, and I'm lost as to how I might design it in order to correctly orient flash hiders and whatnot. In the end, it isn't a big deal. Right now I'm looking at symmetrical flash hiders, and I plan on using a mock suppressor often as well- so it honestly won't matter that much...but I'd prefer to do things right. Do flash hiders themselves usually have a method of orientation adjustment? I've never bought one. Thanks for any help or insight. EDIT: If anyone could point me toward a source on threading, that would be great. I want to make sure I understand CW/CCW, if they're supposed to be paired, or anti-paired, the standard on most rifles, etc. etc.
  6. So the gauge is indeed a sort of indicator of how much air is left- because pressure will decrease every shot? Makes sense; I've gathered similar information on tank regulator output and the goal of 0-150/200 PSI, etc. In an ideal world, I would have a very small tank, with only one regulator (and maybe a QD/slide-check combo if not too bulky); do you know if it's feasible to build/buy a setup which utilizes only one regulator, while retaining optimal regulation (as I understand, power output inconsistency increases as the greater the 'amount' of regulation- such as very high PSI down to low)? Thank you for responding! Also my Scoot figuratively holo-taunts your Battle Turkey in solidarity ;)
  7. I'm currently doing research to finalize my long-overdue plans of converting my Tanaka rifle to use HPA. There's plenty of information out there for me to chug along alright, but I always make a point of coming here to other airsoft snipers to gather sage opinions in hopes of making the optimal choices with zero regret or second-guessing. I have a lot of options in front of me it seems, and I'd like to get much better acquainted with them in every respect. Some questions in my mind include: Should I simply buy the necessary individual parts and build the rig, or purchase something more pre-built? What is necessary, and what is optional? How can I build the absolute smallest rig possible? What key aspects of HPA rigging should I focus on- what is a gimmick and what is performance-related? At this stage, I'm somewhere between capable of converting to HPA successfully, and fully understanding the matter at hand and all the nuances. I would like to become more educated. I apologize if this post seems a bit vague, and that I could educate myself further with Google-ing alone, but it's hard to ignore the reality that the most ideal resource available to me on this subject is other airsoft snipers who've gone through the exact situation I am currently in. I tend to stay on the vague side in hopes of eliciting the most information plausibly reasonable. Some very specific questions I have: About how many shots can I get out of a 13 cubic inch tank? (I understand this may vary drastically) Are there tanks smaller than 13 cubic inch- about how many shots would they provide? Around what PSIs would I be using to fire between 400 and 600-800 FPS [assuming .2g BB]? (I'm only curious about extremely high power output for testing range limits on targets- I also understand my bucking would be in danger by pushing the limits of power) Am I correct in thinking the gauge on an HPA tank is part of a regulator? Am I correct in thinking that this gauge depicts the PSI pressure inside the tank and that when it falls below the final output of your regulator, you will not fire? Am I correct in thinking some (or all?) airsoft HPA builds require two regulators- one on the tank, with another super low pressure (SLP?) regulator for reasonable power output? Where are trusty outlets for buying the necessary parts? What pre-builds are worth purchase? Are there any other valuable resources such as the following which I should read? http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/topic/127562-constructing-an-air-rig-56k-death/ http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/44-others/10925-ultimate-kjw-m700-upgrade-guide.html http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/32-general-sniper-talk/9841-airsoft-gases-external-gas-rigs.html Again, apologies if these seem like silly questions; feel free to hit me with a rolled up newspaper by simply posting a link to more information for me to read over :) Thanks for any help!
  8. For the sanity of myself and potential readers, and to counter dead links; the name of the rubber purchased: "Maple Leaf Tokyo Marui GBB 70 Degree Hop Up Bucking"
  9. Ah, very true about power- and to complicate that matter more, I believe due to gas expansion, using heavier BB's increases joules(?). Well the mod took longer than I thought, but I finished and tried to take some shots- but honestly there's no point, at this range, I can't even see the BB's to tell where hop up is at etc. I'll have to try groupings given a better opportunity.
  10. Tanaka M40A1, KA chamber conversion, EdGI 6.03, Maple Leaf 70, every G&G mod for the magazine and bolt, custom MUCH tighter fit flat nub, other assorted mods, any BB worth note (as of a few years ago that is, not sure if anything newer competes- for example, I own: Maruzen SGM .29, Bioval .4, Goldenball .3, BBBastard Nites, BBBastard Pearls). Unfortunately I don't have easy access to somewhere with the ranges I need. But just you asking has got me too curious- I'm going to test the longest distance I can tomorrow after I complete another mod, then reply again. In the meantime, could you suggest BB/grouping combinations that are considered 'good' or 'abnormally good'? I've always been curious how my setup stacks up to others'. Also what BB would you recommend I use for the test tomorrow; Bioval .4, Goldenball .3, BBB .3, SGM .29, BBB Sil .28, BBB Eco .28, BBB .28 ? I'm thinking BBB Silica .28 just because they're the lightest, and I can see there are no bubbles inside them- should be a safe, consistent choice? Though maybe .28 would be hard to compare to more common weights/groupings? EDIT: On second thought I could use any weight BBB, just didn't think to list below .28 because I would never realistically use them in my sniper rifle.
  11. In many cases, that's true (probably most). I may be grasping too much for an end-all be-all setup which works across nearly all builds/contexts. In reality, in an upgraded gun like mine, using hop-up like I do, no other mod is necessary, you're right. Again, being a perfectionist- but even my perfectionist attitude can let slide the notion that I need perfect BB placement even when hop isn't engaged, haha.
  12. No. A BB starting in position 'A' and a BB starting in position 'B' would not do the same thing upon being propelled into that shape. You are assuming they start up against the shape. On that note, the second part is more relevant. Depending on the gun (stock), or depending on any number of applicable modifications/upgrades/alternate parts, the bucking rubber may or may not hold the BB in a consistent starting position. I just checked with my Tanaka, and due to a G&G bolt mod, the BB is pushed directly up against the rubber nub, meaning I wouldn't gain much from a MB-type mod (though again, I'd still buy it from PDI, what'do you take me for, a casual? ;) ). But pre-G&G mod, the bolt nozzle would not have pushed the BB as far- meaning I would have benefited from a barrel shaped to initialize BB position consistently- and in fact, I benefited from my old bucking's method of doing just that, as the rubber had a tighter region which held the BB before being projected. Oddly enough this means my un-modded bolt nozzle allowed for more consistent initial BB placement when no hop was engaged- obviously that's not super helpful, and the G&G mod resulted in more consistent shots when using hop up. The fact of the matter is that a bucking like the one you suggested does not inherently result in the consistent initial placement of BB's. Though I do change my mind on what part I think should be responsible for initial BB placement- I can't decide if it would make more sense for the rubber or for the barrel, but I'm leaning towards rubber at this point. Refer to the text above. But also many buckings do not stop the BB from rolling out one way or another. I'd hazard a guess that most rubbers DO keep the BB from rolling backwards out the chamber, but when no hop is engaged, many allow the BB to roll out the front.
  13. Ohh, I did that yesterday it turns out, haha. The difference is massive, I barely need any pressure on the hop up unit to reach the same hop.
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