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lrich

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About lrich

  • Rank
    It doesn't matter how you broke it, it matters how you fixit
  • Birthday 11/15/1992

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    http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=667043396
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Seattle Washington
  • Interests
    Airsofting, soccer, football, basketball, mechanic work (on guns, cars, etc).

Previous Fields

  • Airsoft Replicas Owned
    Cybergun/Cyma Thompson 2 KWC/Cybergun Desert Eagles half working, golden cm.028s KWA Mac 11 Half finished custom B.A.R. Various springers and lpegs for entertainment
  1. Sorry it took so long, I got caught up in other stuff. To remove the magazine catch, you have to push it up as far as possible (like you are releasing a magazine), and then pull it out of the receiver. It takes quite a bit of effort, but it will come out that way. When I get home (~8 hrs from now), I'll post some pictures of what I mean. So to remove the mag lever: First remove the selector switch, otherwise the lever cannot be pushed up high enough to be removed, then push up the lever has high as possible (note lever is nearly touching selector post): With the mag release fully pushed upwards (as seen above), push on this post (pointed out by the screw driver) to start the mag lever out (this takes some effort): Make sure the catch clears the hole (the point of pushing the lever so far upwards), otherwise you wont be able to get the release out: Once it looks like the above, just keep on yanking. It will take some effort, as there is a stiff spring in a slot which causes a lot of friction. To replace the lever, simply reverse the above. One key thing though is to get the spring tensioned before reinserting the magazine release (the end of the spring will fit in the slot visible once the mag release is removed, pictured below), otherwise you will end up with a floppy mag release, and no one likes a floppy lever. Finally, if anyone is wondering what the stuff on the gearbox is, it is a light up hop up wiring system which doesn't have any plugs to forget to unplug when taking the upper off the lower receiver (and it is currently being revised, which is why it is rather ugly)
  2. Wow, the chances that I'd see this are phenomenally low, but that's not important. To remove the magazine catch, you have to push it up as far as possible (like you are releasing a magazine), and then pull it out of the receiver. It takes quite a bit of effort, but it will come out that way. When I get home (~8 hrs from now), I'll post some pictures of what I mean.
  3. As far as I know, this is in compliance with the rules of the wanted section, hopefully I am right. As the title says, I need an airmag m50 (preferably) or tac force TF11 magazine (supposed to be compatible). It can be any condition, as long as the gas release valve and mag/blowback unit seal are in decent shape, I don't care about the bottom half or the feed lips, just the part mentioned. I have a stock WE M1911 to trade with 1 magazine (pm for more details, you ship first), but you would have to add some cash (or a p90 motor cage or m14 or m249 gearbox)
  4. I have a WE m1911+1.75 working mags (one holds only ~12 rds $82 shipped) and an ACM shotgun for sale ($150 shipped) http://classicairsoft.org/forum/showthread...911-Other-Stuff
  5. Well, I like vertical foregrips, but that is just me. Here are two main reasons for and against (slightly overlapping what has been said), and ignoring the "its comfier with/without a foregrip" argument; A vertical foregrip (In my opinion) allows me to swing the gun faster because I can exert more lateral force on the grip vs. the horizontal handguard A vertical foregrip allows me to pull the weapon in tighter for a more accurate shot as compared to a horizontal grip But it sucks that; When crawling through brush, foregrips seem to catch on everything (since they are sticking out perpendicular to the weapon after all) I find it it makes holding the gun in odd positions more difficult (for shooting around corners, etc. when you have to shift grips off the VFG, it gets in the way) Overall, it is user's choice, I find that with minimal shopping on forums/etc. you can find a foregrip for $10 or less, so it might be worth it to try it out.
  6. Well it depends on how you are thinking of going about it, The way I was thinking of it, the piston is pulled all the way back and fires, just like how the gearbox regularly works, but instead of the tappet plate/nozzle only going back and forth once in that time period, it goes back and forth 3 times, to load 3 bb and shoot them all at once. This would give a better spread than a high ROF gun, aka, a fully automatic shotgun. That way, I wouldn't have to worry about short stroking or any of those other various high ROF modifications. To me, it seems like you are describing a way to make a really high ROF firing 1 bb at a time, but increasing the cyclic rate by having a sector gear that pulls back the piston multiple times per revolution, like the cyclone dual sector gear http://forums.airsoftmechanics.com/index.php?topic=1299.0 You do raise a valid point about feeding issues though, but I was planning on keeping it at a sedately 400-600 shots per minute (~7-10 Shots per second, about the rate or a little higher than that of R/S Full Auto shotguns) which, feeding 3 bb's per shot, would be a not too impressive 21-30 BPS feedrate. If you were to try to bump up the firing speed, you would run into significant problems though.
  7. A few things in response to both posts; 1st off, it will work, but the FPS will be reduced to about 1/3-1/2, maybe slightly more, of what the FPS with one bb is. In a CQB environment, when range is not needed, then who really cares. Putting 3 bb's down the barrel of my thompson and shooting it (normal FPS is ~390) wouldn't give me a chrono reading, however subjectively it seemed to be comparable to an Lpeg shooting ~225-250 FPS, plenty for sub 75 ft CQB action. 2. The accuracy will be dubious at best, because traveling down the barrel, the bb's will be knocking into each other, negatively affecting accuracy. 3. If you were to do this, and to actually have the nozzle completely cycle each time it loads a bb and be forward at the time of firing, you are going to get a max of 3 bb's per shot (I mapped out the points on a sector gear using a v6 gearbox) 4. The airseal will be fine, as long as you position the extra nubs in the correct position for the nozzle to be forward when the piston is flying forward 5. Because you are loading 3 bbs instead of 1, if you tilted the gun down, you may end up having 2 bb's roll out of the barrel, if they are pushed past the hop up, so there is no resistance to keep them from rolling out. 6. You don't have to worry about the piston flying forward trashing the nozzle/tappet plate, they are completely unrelated, the piston never touches the nozzle/tappet plate in any gearbox I know of. In the following week (when I get onto spring break), I will actually try this using an old sector gear and putting it in my Thompson, I will report back then
  8. also you guys are forgetting the whole WWII set of guns that are unique, as long as you are not at a WWII airsoft event. The main ones are: AGM STG-44 Cyma/Cybergun Thompson, AGM MP40, AGM Sten and Dboys k98.
  9. technically, paypal requires you to be 18 to use it, so if you use paypal, that implies that the person you are dealing with is either 18 or is stealing someones account (technically you could call a child using their parents account without permission stealing). Also, I don't know about interstate transactions, but washington requires you to only be 14 or 16 (I can't remember which) to purchase, however, most stores restrict it to 18, so that if the kid gets hurt, it is much harder for the parents to sue.
  10. It's worth is up to you, to me it isn't worth it, but, as another example, to me a TM isn't worth it when I can get a clone with just as good or better externals and work on the internals to make it just as stable, to someone else a TM is the way to go, you have to decide if you like it. Can you flip :censored2: it? Maybe. There are two important things to factor in here. The marushin is not 100% accurate to the one Arnold uses to spin :censored2: and do you know how he did it (and/or how to spin :censored2: already)? For #1, the marushin uses the thin lever grip, while the spin cocked gun was bubbled a lot in order to allow arnold to spin :censored2: it. As such, unless you have small hands, you will have some problems. The one used for those scenes in the movie: The Marushin: For #2, I am thinking you know how to do it, or at least have an idea, as you didn't say "flip :censored2:." If you try to flip it out to the stop and then back, you are going to crack off the lever, sooner rather than later. What Arnold does in the movie is spin the gun down until the lever reaches its stop, but then relaxes the grip on the lever, allowing the gun to rotate all the way around, and then catching the gun+lever, to complete the spin and finish cocking the gun. Also, this takes practice, and you run the risk of cracking the lever or dropping the gun while trying to do it (when I tried this with a gun designed for it, I never really mastered it, but did drop the gun a ton, thankfully on carpet, also, practice with it unloaded, so you don't accidentally shoot something). As well, don't forget, this gun is shell ejecting, so you will also end up spraying shells everywhere when you flip :censored2: it, and since these shells are expensive, you will probably want to find them, and that can get annoying.
  11. lrich

    xc-o3

    Its all in the pressure of liquification. The thing is, CO2 has to be held at ~700 PSI to stay liquid, while Green Gas/propane is liquid at about 100 PSI. So the thing is, you are filling the magazine up with purely gas CO2, so it runs out quickly. Meanwhile, when you fill the magazine with propane, you are filling it up with liquid, and when you open the valve, the pressure drops, some of it vaporizes (as at lower pressures, it vaporizes) but you still have lots of liquid still in the magazine. The bottom line is CO2 adapters like that don't work with green gas magazines, and unfortunately, you have to either buy green gas, or get an adapter. Also, don't keep increasing the pressure, or you will blow a seal in your gun, and then you will have even bigger problems (they aren't designed for more than 150 PSI, probably overbuilt to withstand about 250 max for a short while).
  12. I was at a game on saturday, and saw both grenades at work as distraction devices. The hakkotsu was much louder, while the tornado was actually relatively quiet, about the sound of someone shouting BANG, but overall I would suggest the tornado. The reason I suggest the tornado is that since neither of these grenades are really flashbangs (in the sense that real flashbangs are extremely loud with a flash and disorient the enemy, and these don't flash, and aren't that loud, so they aren't disorienting), if I see one get tossed in, I am not compelled to look away and cover my ears as they don't really produce ill effects when looked at with uncovered ears (presumably due to safety considerations) and as such, they are not really very distracting. However, the tornado has the added advantage of also dispersing bb's. As such, when the tornado was tossed in, I had to take cover on the off chance that a bb hit me, and this made the tornado much more distracting (and gives the person the chance to storm the room while those behind cover are recovering). As such, I found that interestingly, the tornado in grenade mode was the most distracting, as that was the only time I needed to take action to protect myself from the grenade.
  13. FPS limit is 300 with .2g bb's, although there is probably an approximately 10% or less leniency, but I can't vouch for this (this is semi-common practice though) I have heard that the max number of players at one time is 25, although the whole time I was there (and I was there alll day saturday) I don't think we had anyone sit out, although I don't think there were over 25 people, so that limit wasn't tested. Also, when I was there, I saw people who got their parents to sign a note saying they could play, and also, upon arrival, call the parents and get verbal confirmation. I have heard rumors that they will post the waiver online, but that isn't fact, that is just people talking. As well, what I did. if you go down there, you can pick up a waiver, get it signed, and return it, as I did, since I am an hour or so away. What I would recommend is to go on their website, call them, and ask them to email you the waiver, as that will be the most surefire way to get ahold of them.
  14. the one other problem with this is that most standard batteries like that can't discharge fast enough to allow the motor to turn. They may have the voltage, and enough MAH, but they simply cant send it out fast enough for the average AEG motor to turn very well, or at all.
  15. this is probably the easiest way, using sniper rifle internals and a Kar98 external set http://ww2aa.proboards.com/index.cgi?board...amp;thread=5175 http://moaurosgunworks.webs.com/apps/photo...albumid=5891739 Basically, you take the sniper rifle internals, and hollow out the stock as needed to fit them in, and fasten the sights on there. Also, you will end up cutting a hole for the magazine to be popped in and out, farther up the barrel. I don't know if you have used airsoft Sniper rifles before, but all of them have the magazine much farther up the barrel. I think this is because while the shells in the kar98 feed and stay lined up, heading toward the barrel, a lone bb would get lost in the mechanism of the gun. Whatever the reason though, you wouldn't be able to mount a magazine where the shells go, without doing a large amount of custom fabrication to get the bb's to feed.
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