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About maxxlimited

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  • Airsoft Replicas Owned
    Dboys M4s KWA G36c Various springers and LPEGs
  1. Thanks for the feedback guys. I finally pulled the trigger on the G&P Troy http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?cPat...oducts_id=40043 I really liked the magpul when I tried it out, but 240 for the Troy is just too good of a deal.
  2. How good are G&P internals? I've heard that they have an issue with their buckings in the past, not sure if they fixed that by now. I'm leaning more towards the KWA right now because their internals are just way too good. The piston on my KWA looks brand new after all these years of abuse. I meant metal upper and lower.
  3. I'm deciding to finally retire my 6 year old KWA G36C and pick up a M4. I haven't been keeping up with the airsoft world for the last few years so I'm not sure if there have been major changes with the different manufacturers. My G36 has been solid for all these years, so I'm pretty happy with KWA and I'm thinking about getting another KWA gun, probably this one http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?cPat...oducts_id=32925 I also like this G&P as well, I've always had a soft spot for Magpul http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?cPat...oducts_id=33102 Any suggestions or other recommendations? Preferences: Budget of ~$300 Full metal I'll be playing CQB, so nothing longer than a standard m4 length Rails included
  4. Ok, thanks for the suggestion, I hadn't thought about that. I'm going to try putting in a m110 spring and short stroke 2 teeth. If I'm still shooting too hot, I'll get the full cylinder to drop the fps even more. Any recommendations on a good piston for short stroking? I'm considering the G&P piston, http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?cPat...oducts_id=25949
  5. Hmm, I guess I will have to short stroke then. I see SS tutorials using angle grinders to cut the teeth off the gears and pistons. I only have a dremel, will that cut through the gear teeth with a 426 or a 420 cut off wheel?
  6. I recently bought a new 11.1V 20C lipo for my g36C and I'm running into pre-engagement problems. Gearbox is stock, other than the m85 spring that I have in there. I'm fairly certain the pre-engagement is caused by the weak spring, but this is basically the only spring I can use on the gun without going over 350 fps (CQB field limit). My gun is shooting at ~330 fps right now with the M85. I've tried a PDI 120% in the past, and that puts the fps at 360ish, which is over the limit. Any suggestion on fixing the pre-engagement issue without resorting to short stroking (don't have access to the tools)?
  7. I have the g36c. Overall it's a very solid gun, but there are some minor issues. My selector switch stopped clicking after a while, I might have messed up the selector when I took it apart, but other people had the same problem as well. One of the main issue is for some reason, the gun doesn't seem like going faster than around 24rps. Faster than that, it seems like there is no hopup at all and the bbs just drops after like 30 feet. Again, other people have had the same problem, so I know it's not an isolated case. But I had the gun for over 3 years now, and none of the internals have failed, which is just standard kwa reliability. The plastic/polymer body is very strong. Even though the sling mount is made of the same plastic as the body, it hasn't broken off yet, even after all those years of abuse. I don't have any experience with the G&P so can't help you there.
  8. Even though the JG has better internals, it's still a clone. A thorough cleaning and reshimming will help the gun last much longer. If you can't do it yourself, get someone else to do it for you if possible, like a friend or something. Also, just a side note, G36 is much easier to break down, unlike the SCAR, which is a huge PITA.
  9. I had the same problem with my KWA g36c, except I was running high-drain 9.6V w/ a m85. I switched the spring to a pdi 120% and that solved the problem. The ROF is about the same, so I'm guessing some of the shots weren't getting the full stroke of the piston. For some reason, the gear box has really bad AOE, I think if you fix that it would help as well. BTW, I get like 22ish rps, not sure how fast yours is.
  10. My friend just got one about a month ago. It's actually surprisingly good for a mpeg. Good looking externals with decent quality metal and plastic. Internals are a bit iffy like all mpegs, just relube/reshim and you should be good. My friend has put about 8k rounds through the gun (everything stock except relube/reshim, deans connector and 9.6v elite battery) without any problems. Only major complaint is that one of the screws in the handgrip came broken in half, which is not so good... but all in all, it's a fantastic gun, I highly recommend it.
  11. the matrix motor is the same as the 5ku motor sold on ebairsoft.com for like 35 bucks (or around there). It's not a bad motor at all, very strong magnet, but the pinion gear isn't all that great and will probably wear out pretty fast pulling a m150. It eats up your battery pretty fast too, compared to other motors. Guarder motors are great, if you don't get a lemon lol. But sadly, lemon rates are higher than acceptable...
  12. .2 gram bbs. everything worked fine before when the gun had a lower rps. anything above 20 this happens.
  13. Piston looks brand new, not a scratch. Everything else is stock on the gun, except for spring, I downgraded to m85. Compression is fantastic, around 330ish with m85
  14. ok, I will buy a new bucking next Saturday and hopefully that works. I know KWA's are picky about their buckings, any suggestions on which ones are good and will actually fit?
  15. hmm, I was suspecting preengagement as well. I guess I would need to shave down second teeth right? I don't have a dremel, so is there any other way to do the mod? Thanks for the help. EDIT: I just shaved down the second tooth to get rid of preengagement, but I still have the same problem. Does that mean I need to get a new hopup chamber?
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