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airsoftmatthias

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airsoftmatthias last won the day on December 10 2014

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About airsoftmatthias

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    AirsoftMatthias
  • Birthday 11/01/1992

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Chicago, IL
  • Interests
    Airsofting and Outdoor Sports

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  • SOA Name
    AirsoftMatthias
  • Airsoft Replicas Owned
    Primary Weapon: KWA KM4 RIS with an EdGI tightbore, AWS Sentry MOSFET, and rail accessories Backup Primary: AGM 614 AEG with a Madbull Ver.2 Tightbore and Systema Metal Hop-Up with Bucking. Secondary Weapon: TM 1911 MEU GBB Backup Secondary Weapon: KSC Smith & Wesson M4505 Spring Pistol Other Weapons: KWA CQR MOD2, KWA KRISS Vector, and TM VSR-10
  1. I'm looking for a New (or never used) PTS PRS Stock Adaptor. I'll be happy to pay retail price IF it is new.
  2. Get what fits your needs best. I personally have a Titan Armor Systems MCAP (mini-MAP made to replace the Eagle/LBT MAP) and an AWS Assault Pack (similar to Eagle Yote). Both mount to a PC using MOLLE, but the AWS pack also has normal padded shoulder straps for standalone use. The MCAP is designed to carry either my hydration bladder or my 90/4500 tank, but not both (unless I don't fill the bladder completely and squeeze it in. When I need to carry both a bladder and an air tank, in addition to other items for longer OPs, I use the AWS pack, which can also be utilized as a normal pack. I would recommend purchasing whatever best fits your current needs. Keep in mind that the Pantac has a better resale value than Condor.
  3. There are three companies that make an inner/outer belt combination that works quite well. First Spear AGB AWS AGB Crye Precision MRB These belts utilize an "inner" belt that goes through your pant belt loops and an "outer" belt with PALS space that velcros on top of the "inner" belt. This allows you to take off your first line, without having to take off the belt holding your pants up. Otherwise, you can purchase a lower profile belt and wear a battle belt on top of it.
  4. Odin M12 Speedloader. That's pretty much the only thing that caught my eye. And it caught it completely. I'm purchasing it the moment it's released.
  5. Either get put on the waiting list from the official BTC website, or find a dealer and ask to be put on their waiting list. Or pay more than retail price for one on the forums/FB groups.
  6. Go to Impulse101 and ask about replacement parts. They can special order them for you.
  7. I would hold off on the Prometheus BC barrels. The Prometheus ASH barrels were coated, and we all know how terrible those became once the coating started to wear off. Wait until we get some reviews before putting down the money, unless you feel like biting the bullet and reviewing it for the rest of us. Also, you get what you pay for. EdGI are made of brass, and they still cost as much as a PDI. Prometheus must have taken a lot of short cuts to sell off those barrels for under $40. The Madbull V2 has good reviews, and is typically accepted as the best budget barrel. The ZCI is also excellent and is equivalent to the Madbull V2.
  8. Accuracy is definitely the most important. Unless you have a support weapon... I personally go for range next. Trigger response is after that, since I want my gun to fire as soon as I pull my trigger. FPS/RPS are tied equally for last place.
  9. I'm looking for a hydration carrier/modular pack to carry both a Source 2L bladder and a 90/4500 tank. I've been trying to find a pack that can carry both and completely contain the 90/4500 tank along with the Firebase regulator. After searching the internet, I found a few packs that people suggested. 1. Eagle/LBT MAP with modifications to cinch it down more. 2. PIG gRUNT Modular Pack 3. PIG gRUNT Modular Pack, Large 4. Emdom Vehicle Hydration Carrier 5. TYR Tactical 70 oz Hydration Pack or 100 oz I used to run a MBSS and absolutely hated it. As a result, I have no intention of getting the LBT MAP or its clones. The MBSS swung around too much and the built-in external utility pouch was never useful since I couldn't reach it without removing the PC. I currently run a PIG 2L Hydration Carrier that is extremely low profile. It has just enough room for the bladder and nothing else. Is there a pack that can completely conceal/hold a full 2L bladder and a 90/4500 tank+Firebase regulator without any extra space? I do not want any of the regulator to stick outside of the pack. Will any of the packs I listed fulfill this requirement or are there other options out there that will do a better job?
  10. Most Daytona Gun users use a polished, stock ~6.08mm barrel in their builds. This provides them a slight widebore-effect without losing a substantial amount of air which will drop the joule output of the gun. Thanks to the Black Friday TNK sale, I am finally able to begin a DG 14.5" M4 build. However, the exact length needed to extend the inner barrel from the proprietary DG hop-up unit to the very end of the 14.5" outer barrel is 390mm. Only two companies make excellent larger bores that come close to a 390mm length. Prometheus/Laylax recently released a "BC Bright" barrel line that has an inner diameter of 6.05mm, a slightly larger hop-up window, a coated brass construction, and the Prometheus quality that we all adore. Retail is usually around $35-40 for the 380mm. http://www.evike.com/products/49715/ PDI makes 6.08mm barrels made of cold-forged stainless steel, but with a price tag of $100+ for a 390mm barrel. Is the greater long-term durability and larger bore of the PDI worth it compared to the Prometheus barrel?
  11. Something I would like to point out. Every airsoft rifle that can shoot 450+ ft with documented video proof has used a 6.01 or smaller barrel. Granted, these are rifles that are typically based around a bolt action rifle system using premier BBs, and most shoot above the typical 550 FPS w/ 0.20g limit. However, assuming that widebores are the go-to for long range accuracy is fallacious. Long range accuracy, particularly beyond 400 ft, relies upon a multitude of factors. Some of them are air efficiency and power output. Widebores can drastically decrease air efficiency and power output, making them unfeasible for those 400+ ft shots. Nevertheless, it is a good general rule to assume that a wider bore is preferable for long range shots (up to 300 ft) over a smaller bore.
  12. Not necessarily. It depends on what application you use the barrel for and what ammo you use. A 6.01mm using 0.66g ammo will never jam. Why? The 0.66g are 5.953 +/- 0.00025 or 0.001mm depending on which one you purchase. You will never jam if you keep the barrel clean because there will always be enough room for the BBs to pass through. However, you would also never use 0.66g in a full-auto capable gun because of the price. 6.05 is theorized to be more accurate at long range than a 6.01mm. However, it also means more blow by and a different barrel volume, throwing off normal volume matching barrel lengths that typically take into account 6.03/6.01mm barrels. 6.01mm will result in less blow by and thus typically result in a higher muzzle energy. In the end, precision is the sum of several components. A perfect volume matched barrel is just one of those factors. As a result, a 6.01 or a 6.05mm could perform better than the other or the same. It all depends on the sum of the system.
  13. Just a quick update. I asked a DG owner to measure how much of a 410mm inner barrel stuck out past a 14.5" outer barrel. He measured 20.5mm, which means a 390mm barrel will perfectly end at the end of the outer barrel.
  14. A Google search will provide you the difference between a 45 and 90 degree sear. Every 45 degree sear will strip eventually. A stock TM will take much longer to strip because it uses a weaker spring, which puts less stress and thus wear and tear on the sear. A higher spring will cause the sear to fail sooner. The only difference between the Pro and G-Spec is the externals. And inner barrel length. The silencer does not affect accuracy. The pro is not necessarily more accurate, and both could use upgrading in all the parts you mentioned if you plan on shooting in the 400+ FPS range.
  15. Get whatever you want. It appears you are set on the VFC Scar-L. It's a great gun, but be aware that the wiring from the gearbox to the stock has had issues in the past. The best mock suppressor is the one you like the best. If you want to replicate a common real steel build, then get an AAC can. You can find mock suppressors that screw onto the outer barrel by replacing the flash hider, or you can get a quick detach mock suppressor that fits over a flash hider like a real suppressor. You can technically run a LiPo in any electric gun. What kind and whether or not you should is a different question. The 7.4v LiPo tends to provide a power output similar to the 8.4v NiMh. It can easily be used in place of 8.4v NiMh batteries, but like all LiPos, should be treated with care. If you do some researching on Google, you will find out what precautions must be taken when using LiPos.
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