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BigEd

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About BigEd

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    ASF Citizen
  • Birthday 02/21/1971

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  • Airsoft Replicas Owned
    Professional Airsmith, Artillery armorer.
  1. Switch is rated 15 amps at 120 volts or 1800 watts. 15 amps x 120 volts = 1800 watts Guns generaly run at or between 10-25 amps. (Bigger springs or High speed gears and the motor will suck more amps) 25 amps x 11.4 volts = 285 watts The switches can hold up to higher amperage, but like all switches they will eventually fail. If your gun is pulling an even higher amperage say 30+ amps, you may want to drop in a MOSFET or an Automotive Relay to take the load off the trigger switch. ///ed///
  2. I can see a hybrid Butane/Propane Ignition system in the future. Similar to a Paslode nail gun. Would incorporate recoil, report, and heat. Would be very similar to reenating, extreme realism without permits. ///ed///
  3. The gearbox looks just like a A&K M60 gearbox: It really does need wood furniture. ///ed///
  4. Metric threading are read by pitch. There are three types of thread pitch for larger metric sizes. Coarse 1.5 Fine 1.25 Extra fine 1.0 Example: A die would read 14mm x 1.25 (Diameter x Pitch) You can run the die to whatever length of threading you need. Majority of airsoft threading is either fine, or extra fine, for Sizes Above 8mm. Sizes 7mm and smaller only have one choice of pitch for each diameter. ///ed///
  5. The square hole in the front handgrip of the M60 is for the pintle. There were 2 styles of pintles developed for mounting the M60 machinegun to tripod. One was a platform which then mounted to a .30 or .50 cal pintle, the other was gooseneck. Platform with .30/.50 cal pintle. Platform without pintle. .30/.50 pintle. Gooseneck pintle, which eliminated the use of the platform. ///ed///
  6. Easist way is swap in a set of internals from SAW box mag. Cheapest way is to build your your own... You'll need a RC Servo, 9v battery, 9v battery connector, and momentary switch. You have to modify the Servo: http://www.kronosrobotics.com/an116/GAN116.shtml Epoxy a servo arm to the mag winding wheel, or use an allen key. This is Ian's guide. http://killbuckets.com/magmod.htm I have built many, here are some pics. ///ed///
  7. Every once in a while I get a gearbox that was upgraded by a owner and was told "it simply locks up". If a new spring was installed, I will plug it into a medusa rig connected to a 18v battery. (picture) If it was re-shimmed or new gears installed, I don't bother and just open up the gearbox. If the gun was running fine then just stopped, and is locking up. A tooth from a gear/piece of the piston/debris is preventing the gears from spinning. Again just open up the gearbox. I pull the trigger once on semi, and once on full auto. If the gearbox operates, it's a power issue. A new battery or stronger motor is needed. ///ed///
  8. AGM MP40 intel: Standard piston V2/V3 Piston head V2/V3 Cylinder head V3 Spring guide V3 Tappet plate 3/4 Hole cylinder 6mm bushings Short Motor Has a proprietary hopup and nozzle (an AUG nozzle can be cut down), depending on which gen you have, removing the inner barrel can be very difficult. I think there is a guide on the WW2Airsoft forum how to remove the inner barrel. Once upon a time they were glued onto the hopup. I used a sawzall trigger switch in the M3A1 build. http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i110/edt...m3_gg_ed_13.jpg ///ed///
  9. Picture of an AGM MP40 gearbox. Used them in a M3A1 Grease gun, and Swedish-K builds. http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i110/edt...m3_gg_ed_24.jpg http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i110/edt...ish_k_ed_21.jpg ///ed///
  10. If the gearbox is open and you witness this, it is normal. Rotate the sector gear and watch the semi-auto cutoff lever. The cam on the back of the gear as PMRowe stated will cause the lever to move up and down. The trigger trolley will move up and break contact with the trigger blades when the selector is set to semi-auto. When the gearbox is closed the trolley will not hop over the trolley stop post, and the trigger will re-enage it. This is normal, uncommon yes, but it is normal. When a new set of trigger contacts are installed, the blades on each side of the trolley are sometimes overbent (too close together). They make contact with the trolley early before the semi-auto cutoff lever can properly disengage the trolley. Causing full auto when gently pulling the trigger. In most cases, overtime the trigger blades will heat up and settle in. Just shoot semi-auto at an event sometime with a sharp pull of the trigger. The full-auto in semi-auto when gently pulled should go away. ///ed///
  11. They were for sale in the states a long time ago. Have not seen one since 2002. Same here. Played Paintball in the mid/late 80's into the early 90's, which then turned into speedball. So I walked away. Then started collecting & shooting real steel. Then cost of ammo, shot up (sorry about the pun) and then found airsoft. Essence I believe is to have fun. They can be safely used to have fun in a game. ///ed///
  12. Tell Craig I said Hello. Have not seen him in almost six months. Work and family has pulled me away from repairs and builds. There is not a huge profit margin on guns. When your local and you sell a gun with lets say a 30 (or more) day warranty. Then the gun comes back after 2 events with stripped gears. So the store takes it back and is then repaired. Then another gun of the same brand comes back with the same problem, so now the store is seeing a failure pattern. The store will now start losing money making warranty repairs which means two things can happen. 1. The warranty may disappear, and the price will stay the same. But due to the high failure rate rumors will circulate on the boards about poor internal quality etc. And now the store is stuck with inventory they will have to work on before a sale is made. 2. The price may increase so the store can sell the inventory they have on hand and cover the costs of future repairs. Remember: Every year brings another production batch of guns, gears, pistons, etc. from overseas. Some are great no failures. Others which were great in the past now start failing. So you have some people on the boards swearing that a certain brand product is solid and built to last. While others have nothing good to say about a particular brand because of recent/past production quality control. If you have a local airsoft shop go in and ask to speak with a tech or a salesman. Ask about what brands have issues and how many have been returned. Always inquire about a warranty, and see if the tech's are on any forums. ///ed///
  13. Non-Ported/Vented piston head are to be ONLY used with nozzles with a cross cut in the front. Vented or Ported piston heads can be used with a cross cut in the nozzle or not. Ported/Vented piston heads: When a piston is pulled back a vented or ported piston head draws are into the cylinder from either the front of the nozzle or the back of the cylinder. The o-ring expands in one direction, forward. (Put your finger over the nozzle and pull back on the piston, it moves easily.) Non-Ported/Vented piston heads: A Non-Ported/Vented piston head draws air in from the front through the nozzle. Because the o-ring will expand in either direction. (Put your finger over the nozzle and pull back on the piston, it will draw a vacuum). Not all nozzles are alike. The reason for the cross cut in the nozzle is so when a bb enters the hopup chamber it does not block the nozzle from drawing air in. It is called BB-suck, it happens ONLY with a round nozzle with an unvented piston head. Gearbox will sound normal until it is installed in a gun and bb's a run through it. Then it sounds crunchy, almost like a compression hang. The piston will shread up easily. Cross cut nozzle: http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcS...5H5roK8DEQvkStJ Round nozzle: http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQ...1bdh-WrWPgTfIyQ ///ed///
  14. 1984-1987 - Laser Tag (Infrared guns) 1987-1992 - Paintball (Some exposure to Classic Airsoft guns) 1992-2002 - Real steel (Started seeing more "Electric" Airsoft guns) 2002-Present - Airsoft (I fabricate what I cannot afford or does not exist) I am 40 now... I enjoy airsoft artillery support. One shot = Seven kills. My version of CQB is leveling the entire building. ///ed///
  15. I posted this diagram a couple times before. A couple SPDT relays, 9v battery, LEDS, Switch, and Piezo speaker. Used it in a scenario where each team had to locate 2 seperate warheads, engineering kit and "Janes guide to thermonuclear devices". Each warhead had to be disarmed in order to win. Each warhead could only be disarmed using the engineering kit which had special security bits to open up the warhead panel. The warhead panel once removed, could be disarmed by cutting the correct wire. To find the correct wire a 100 page booklet "Janes guide to thermonuclear devices" had to be obtained. The Janes guide had several pages of identification and classification of warheads. Once identified you would look up the chapter how to disarm them. To bend the scenario alittle, there were 2 editions of the guide. One edition was out of date and did not have the instructions for a warhead that would be in possesion by the opposing side. One side would find the warhead rite off, and the other team would possess both engineering kits. The engineering kits would have special security screwdrivers so even a fully armed tech could not open up the warhead. I made the warheads so that it could only be opened using a 2 foot long security torx bit. This prevented a tech savy person from examing the insides and figuring out which wire to cut without the guide or engineering kit. Later added mercury switches from an old thermostat so the warhead had to be gently carried level, otherwise it would "beep loudly" (truck backup beeper). This prevented one side from carrying it away without alerting the other side it was moving. ///ed///
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