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rootuser

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About rootuser

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  1. Topic says it all: WTB Classic Army Blowback gearbox shell. I will buy a complete version as well. Must be in good condition.
  2. If those are bad you'll definately increase range by fixing them. An m120 spring with the TBB you're talking about should hit ~420 assuming your using a Guarder spring. The Classic Army stock M120 settles in right on about 400 with a TBB. It really depends on brand. I have this really cheap chinese m120 spring that shot at like 430 for a month then just went to hell and now shoots like 390. I would recommend a good Guarder spring. If all your other parts are new, a fresh spring will top off a good build.
  3. None of those parts by themselves are going to make the gun shoot further per se unless the parts you have in the gun currently are broken. You might get a hair more distance out of the TBB if it ups the FPS but that really depends on what you already have in the gun. What spring is in the gun? You might be able to throw an M110 or M120 at it and be done. M120 should bring you up to around 420 after break-in and an M110 will leave you around 390 (assuming no compression leaks or the like). Replacing the hop-up and bucking etc will only effect distance if there is something wrong with the ones you have now.
  4. I can respect that position. And I understand the spamming thing might be annoying to some people so what you say makes sense. And wanting to pay the extra ~$30 for a bit more protection may make sense for you, especially if you plan to use it in only one gun. I have way too many guns, so being able to move the package from one gun to another is a nice bonus. The BW utilizes a different design than other products, but it is definately a MOSFET circuit, as true as any other. Honestly if you want to do it in a way for full protection, you'll step away from MOSFETs all together and utilize a relay and get rid of the switch. No arching at all, no MOSFET needed, nothing. Changes the circuit completely.
  5. Good review, nicely done. Seems like you took your time and I think anyone can appreciate it. I have been using the AEG Burst Wizard since it first came out and I have to say this review is way harsh IMHO, not inaccurate, just harsh. I do not know Kong and I do not refer people to him for free parts or anything like that. But saying he is confused or lying? Did you ask him directly what he meant and he said "Yes your stock trigger response will be twice as fast?". I think not. I really think that your statement about him lying should be retracted and or redacted because it's not right. IMHO you take a great review and then make wild accusations. Read my point 3 for more clarification. While the BW is not perfect, I don't think there is any deceptive advertising going on, or some grand conspiracy to screw people. First thing of note: This thing cost $35 shipped. $35. If you are expecting something like the Cheetah, which costs over double, then you are just deluding yourself. You broke down the creators claims one by one, but I think we need to re-read what was said. 1) Burst firing mode for any of their guns. Just plug-and-play -- Absolutely true. Plug it in, it works. You can adjust the burst by turning a tiny little pot that changes the timing. 2) MOSFET circuit that has soft start, active braking and trigger switch arcing reducer -- Soft start, check. Active braking, check. Trigger switch arcing reducer, take note here, REDUCER, not eliminator, check again. All true. Bupus mentions that there is arching when trigger contact is broken IF current is still flowing through, and he is absolutely right. You CAN have an arch happen if you release the trigger early. But keeping the burst timing short basically eliminates this problem as long as you are doing full stroke trigger pulls and not "fanning" the trigger. 3) Can emulate semi-auto mode in full-auto and speed up the trigger response by 2x times -- Semi-auto mode, check. Trigger response by 2x times.... I can see where this might cause confusion. The orignal AEG BW had a problem that the trigger response was really crap. You'd pull the trigger and there would be a noticable delay. What the BW guy meant I believe was that he cut the delay of trigger time in HALF, thus making it twice as fast. So instead of delaying voltage flow for .08 seconds, it now delays it for .04 seconds *times are examples only*. The original AEG BW was noticably sluggish. The newer has rectified this issue. So technically, between the old version and the new version trigger response IS twice as fast, HOWEVER, it is not twice as fast as a stock gun, it's actually delayed by a very very small amount to the point that I can't even tell. But really to say the guy is lying is just not correct. It could be worded better and hopefully Kong will read this and re-word the claim, but I don't think he is confused or lying. So wrong to slam a guy who is just trying to make a little product at a fair price. English is obviously not his first language. How about send him a PM and ask him to clarify? I can barely get english right half the time and it's my first language. For some one who is a non-native speaker, they can phrase things in a way that may not make total sense in type. 4) Allow them to change the ROF from 100% down to 0% -- 100% to 0%, absolutely true. The maker warns that you shouldn't turn it down too much. Obviously you are just bleeding the voltage and turning it into heat and it gets HOOOOOOOOT if you do that. But I have turned mine down to ~75% and there is no big deal over a 2 game stretch. Another MOSFET I have does stay cooler, but not completely cool. 5) Sniper mode for 1 second delay between fire to add competitiveness and fun to the games -- Sniper mode and 1 second delay, check. You can turn off sniper mode as well, check. 6) LiPO battery low-voltage cutoff protection -- Low voltage cutoff protection (I have only tested with 11.1 lipo), check. 7) Work with LIPO, NIMH and NICD batteries at voltages from 7.2VDC up to 16VDC and up to 80A. -- Works with all these battery voltages but I have only tested as high as 11.1v, so I don't know if it's true up to 16 volt. I will be testing a 14.8 this weekend and will report back if I fry the sucker (which it might, 80A seems a bit low for a big battery). I really don't think there was any intentional deception here, I think just some confusion on how this thing really works. To accuse Kong of lying is pretty freaking harsh. Maybe it was just wording you didn't understand if you didn't use the first one? I dunno. But then again it's mentioned a "true AEG MOSFET circuit" and I must have missed the official memo put out by all AEG manufacturers that there was one true MOSFET usage circuit for AEGs and how it was to be built. Did I mention, that this thing only costs $35??? :D Overall it's a decent product that is evolving. It won't protect your trigger as much as other mosfets setups, but it will help and it adds some fun burst modes. While I am sure all other MOSFET creators started with a perfect product the first run (vomit, I went through 3 from a "reputable" vendor during his trial and error phases) this guy is just getting started. He may end up making an even better product or it may get worse, who knows, but a little perspective is sorely needed here. Just my opinion. YMMV.
  6. I don't know about airsoft on this for sure, but on real-steel Troy Battle Sights, elevation is the front site and windage is the rear site with no way to change that. I am surprised that you cannot adjust the front site down low enough if they are the real Troy sites. Is there an airsoft only version of the Troy sites? The real steel ones are ~$100 each (front and rear) so $200 in sites you'd think they would adjust far enough. I know the Failpoint (replica aimpoint) scopes have trouble adjusting low enough for airsoft but my real steel version has more than enough adjustment, but I don't want to risk a real nice scope on an airsoft gun. Do you have a matched set of Troy sites? You could run in to a problem if you used one Troy and one generic one possibly.
  7. Only my personal experience, no empirical evidence here, but from what I could tell from using both Madbull and Prometheus in games, I couldn't see any overall difference in accuracy and or distance, however I think the Prometheus will last long due to better construction and materials. As for ACM, both Matrix and Madbull are almost all ACM. You can find 100% exactly the same items simply missing the logo from several sources in China. I even found one site selling Madbull grenade launchers for 30% less using the exact same photos Madbull uses with the logo blurred out lol. I've found barrels, batteries, springs, grenades etc all exactly the same from several sources. Of course I haven't compared every product Madbull makes, but it seems you can easily find most of it. I haven't found their bucking yet actually now that I think about it, but you can be pretty reasonably assured Madbull doesn't manufacture a thing themselves.
  8. Guarder 130 spring with good compression should get you right there or close. Going over to a 140 or larger may require more re-enforcement etc. Currently one of my M4s is shooting ~440 with a M130 and a 6.03 barrel. If that's not close enough you'll have to go over to a 140 but with a standard gear set, I think you are asking for trouble. Personally I like the idea of having a boneyard gun around to rob parts from, but it really depends on what's wrong with the boneyard one to begin with. If it has say a stripped gear, and your gears are in good shape, then you're good to go plus you'll have a ton of parts to mix and match for the best setup. If the boneyard gun has a cracked gearbox, then well you're SOL and you'll have to buy a new shell.
  9. Everyone loves the SCS nub and I think it's pretty great too. It's a good hard nub. I think that is what you are looking for is a hard nub. That is the most important thing I believe you need from what you have stated. I am not a fan of the systema since A. They fall apart and B. The bump in the bucking needs to be removed to get the best effect of the SCS nub in my opinion. But other guys will tell you "It's the best" blah blah. It's a matter of personal preference. I just tried a Systema (w/bump) vs. a flat KA (no bump) and the KA performed much better under hop-up than the Systema did. Now if I removed the bump from the systema it may perform even better than the KA, but I haven't gotten that far yet to comment.
  10. EXCELLENT Job. Seriously, really nice thinking and clear simple engineering. A+
  11. As with any battery pack, the cells are the biggest thing (some argue its the only thing). My experience with Tenergy is limited to only two packs I use for my AUG and so far they are fine. I wouldn't consider them high quality. If you have time/energy/desire you could make your own pack with high quality cells and then you'd be set.
  12. I love people thinking outside the box. Nice job. Great video. Is the mod for the M4 all mechanical or does it involve electronics? Sounds like all mechanical from your description.
  13. Wasn't talking about what you had done. I am sure what you did was fine. What I'm saying is guys really hack the hell out of their guns and then claim how much accuracy they gained. You'd be hard pressed to be able to square anything correctly much less crown it perfectly without proper tools. Having the tools is the key. It CAN be done, but not with a hacksaw (well, without a ton of clean-up work after). I do agree that these guns are only so accurate, but that is exactly the reason you don't want to give up even a bit more because you are already going to have problems with accuracy at range.
  14. One more thing, what kind of Cylinder is it? You COULD run in to a problem if the cylinder is ported, is uniformly 2MM shorter, meaning the ports are moved forward 2MM meaning you are loosing 2MM worth of air volume. Being an M14 I doubt it would be ported, but you never know.
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