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Nodaisho

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About Nodaisho

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  1. Thanks. I ended up finding a couple places selling them. In case someone else finds this through a search and they're still available, which isn't likely, I found them here and here. That same Ebay vendor has the short motor springs in stock as well. I'm probably ordering from Evike, because the expected shipping from Hong Kong is between 3 and 6 weeks. I forgot to ask, does this kind of motor plate need a screw in the middle? I see a small screw-looking shaft with threads coming out the side that would be inside the grip, I'm not sure if I need a tiny screw going in from outside to adjust the length further.
  2. Thanks. I found an extra set of AR bits and pieces, stuff like mag releases, charging handles, there was a bolt in there that fit. Unfortunately it is one of the screw-on ones, rather than being a real pin, but it works. I also found the plate for the bottom of the grip. Unfortunately it only had one screw in it, and that one had stripped. I think I've got some screws that will fit in there, but I'm going to need smaller hex keys. I also realized that my motor is missing the spring that holds the motor in place in the gun. I'm not seeing them anywhere, although I'm not sure what the term for them is. Is that something I can buy, or do I need to just find someone selling a crappy stock motor and pick it up for the spring? I'm really excited to see this thing start coming together again, I had remembered it as being completely broken right up until I got my old stuff out of storage at my dad's. Now I just have to learn how to put a gearbox together without giving up in frustration from trying to keep the ARL in place (probably picking up one of HS5's ARL clips).
  3. I hope a double post is okay. Here's those pictures, let me know if you need another angle.
  4. Ah, good point. I'll try to get some pictures this evening after work. It's got the rear pin, a trigger pin, and a front pin. It seems pretty accurate to what little I remember about disassembling a real AR, aside from the upper sliding forward rather than pivoting like a break action.
  5. I'm putting an AGM HK416 back together that's been partially disassembled for years. I'm having a hard time finding the rear receiver pin and the motor plate on the grip. I see lots of M4 receiver pin sets and grips. I see some HK416 grips, but no pins. In general, are pins for an M4 going to fit an HK416? What about the grip? I'm probably just going to get another HK416 grip, but if I see something I really like made for an M4, I might get it.
  6. Yeah, it was largely used in classic airsoft guns. It also would loft bbs out relatvely flat to 300 feet at Japanese energy levels. More recently, people have started putting them on DMRs and sniper rifles. Mostly custom jobs, although HS5 made a limited run of a carbon fiber outer barrel with set screw for the AR-15 platform to simplify it. It's easier to do with a spring/gas bolt gun because the outer barrel is so much larger. It involves putting a slight bend in the barrel to approximate the old long range barrels. As I understand, it's less than the originals, because you're also getting the effect from the hop-up. Just 1-3mm, depending on the application. There's a lot of discussion of it over on airsoft sniper forum. The real downside is that you do have to tune it for one specific weight of bbs, and you can't adjust it on the fly as easily as the hop-up.
  7. Are we talking about $200 for the whole thing, or just the base gun? Because if it's the whole thing, take that $200 and put it into upgrades for the AK. Any sort of DMR you could possibly field sub-$200 would involve boneyards and a good supply of second-hand replacement parts. Any gun can be a DMR. Even an MP5k, if you feel like ripping your hair out. If you want a compact milsimmy DMR, find a bullpup gun you like. But you should also know that most of the mods that separate a DMR from a rifle with a scope on it are more time-consuming than expensive. Fixing compression, maintaining compression, installing an R/ER-hop, installing a new R/ER-hop when you realize how badly you did on your first attempt, figuring out how to fit a Long Range Barrel in your particular setup. Once you have that down, you can buy bags of different kinds of BBs to figure out which ones play best with your gun and magazines. Then you can install your Long Range Barrel, but if you change BB weights you'll have to adjust it again. Hopefully you figured out a way to adjust it easily, although you might still have to reshim your inner barrel, depending on how much you need to adjust the angle. I'm not trying to scare you away from making a DMR. I just want to make sure you know what you're getting into before you drop money on something you might not be willing to follow through.
  8. I guess I do see where your arguments are coming from. I've had dumb things go wrong with my guns, and seen dumber things go wrong in others. I've seen sector gears lose their second tooth, the one that literally has no contact with the piston once AoE is corrected. I like having replacement parts available for peace of mind so I know that whether something weird goes wrong, I make a dumb mistake, or all of the above, I can get it working again easily. You are right that nothing should need replacing on a RS SVD. I'm just that lucky guy that seems to have everything break within the first couple times I use it. I also have a pathological fear of running out of batteries at a bad time, so I'm really big on motor efficiency. That's why I was talking about neo motors and high speed gears. There's no sort of logical reason to that, all of my guns have full stocks that allow for quick battery changes, and I almost never use anywhere near enough bbs to drain a 4aH+ battery in a day. I just worry about it anyway.
  9. Pre-cocking mosfet equals instant trigger response on anything, but with the other limits on what is available for airsoft guns, it's a more expensive solution to a problem that we've already solved. The gears also are a lot more expensive to replace and a lot harder to find. I googled for a few minutes and couldn't find anywhere with an entire set of gears. Most of the places where I could find single gears were sold out. A new pre-cocking mosfet: 60+ dollars (my understanding is more towards $100). A simple 3034 mosfet and a set of 13:1 gears is $35. CYMA/Chao-Li already have some really good torquey neo motors. Torquier than the JG blues. And then if you ever stripped gears, or your piston, or broke a spring guide, or wanted to put a nice set of RiotSC 10.44:1 gears in, you would be able to do it easily and cheaply (aside from the riots). And with that high torque motor and speed gears, you're getting a lot less heat accumulation and your battery efficiency is through the roof. Which is a good thing, because stick-type batteries suck compared to the standard box-type. There's a reason almost all guns are TM-spec. Production is established, parts are cheaper, more available, most of the problems have already been worked out, and everyone knows how to work on them.
  10. One thing to consider is that the dragunov has limited upgrade potential compared to most AEGs. It uses a proprietary gear set with a higher ratio than most AEGs. That's supposed to make it able to pull a stronger spring, but it's really not necessary and just ends up making your trigger response worse without any benefit. Not saying it isn't the best Dragunov available. Just that it definitely has downsides compared to other options.
  11. A nice gear set, unless you're talking about siegetek, is less than $20. The first thing you need to do is test where the leaks are. Compression is less parts, more maintenance and hand-fitting. There's a thread on this forum to show how to test for compression. If you have the stock o-ring, you might need a slightly larger one. Stretch it out and either heat it up or just leave it to sit for a day or so, depending on who you ask. I do the let it sit, but I don't have any evidence it is better, just easier. If it's losing air around the cylinder head, you could oil up the cylinder head and see if that helps the o-rings seal better. Or you could just set it in with permatex anaerobic gasket maker. Make sure you get the right depth set, but once you do, the airseal is nearly perfect and you can always knock it out with a screwdriver. The nozzle is the one place where parts really seem to make a huge difference. I've heard of a few home remedies for poor air nozzle seal, but I've never tried any of them. I don't know who makes good ones for the v7 specifically. It's also definitely possible to lose air around the hop-up. Some people permatex the bucking to the barrel, some people use teflon tape and dental floss/fishing line, I've heard one local tech swear by silicone oil around the edges. Haven't tried that one myself, but the permatex has the best seal if you can get it on right and don't mind the difficulty removing it.
  12. Not arguing, but where can you get the 5ku torque motors for $20? The motors on those things are stupid strong, I wouldn't mind picking up another.
  13. If you're killing a $100 gear set with metal teeth on a piston, you're doing something wrong. Either you're paying too much for gears, or you've managed to destroy siegetek gears with piston teeth that should be much weaker. Plenty of people run full metal rack pistons on the highest stress setups.
  14. Nodaisho

    AEG

    And if you have a scope of any sort on it, which is the best way to improve accuracy without disassembling the gun, there is no advantage at all to a longer barrel. If you're looking for a gun to use stock and never mess with, I'd have to suggest this. The only thing that's subpar is the stock motor, which is one of the easiest parts to replace.
  15. I suspect that the mock suppressors frequently end up working as amplifiers when they don't have foam. Just like the noveske amplifiers, but most likely with a more narrow focal point due to the more narrow exit. it seems like for a good sound suppressor, you would want a miniaturized bass trap instead of just standard foam, which has a minimal sound dampening effect. I don't know how to do that, though, and I could be completely off. This is very much an amateur understanding of acoustics.
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