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sniper08

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About sniper08

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    ASF Immigrant

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  • Airsoft Replicas Owned
    Cyma g36c TM VSR 10 G-spec
  1. Well sorry in advance for not being helpful but , whats the point of buying a spring rifle and then converting it to gas? you can pay the same price and get a fairly decent well tested gas rifle straight off.
  2. A) Itd be better to start a new topic rather than get this over 1 month old one. Also does it matter , with good maintenance the zero trigger will last longer than sears and is the only reliable way to install a 170 spring , because of its higher quality , and anyway with good maintenance it will last years , ive not seen or heard of any ever breaking but then again , in a few years I expect to see a few.
  3. short answer: yes From experience id tell you its a to installl new sears it really is its an effort , and spings tend to go flying. and its really worth springing for the zero trigger , its not MUCH more and its a hell of a lot easier and is well generally better than buying sears.
  4. all right have you secured your hop up adjustment lever securely? could be a problem , also have you taken a good look at your bucking is it nice and flat and is it installed correctly? I don't know exactly whats causing this , though ill bet its either your hop up -( take a look inside and completely dis-assemble and re assemble it , to make sure its correct) or it could possibly be decompression in the cylinder , id take a close look at it and do some compression tests.
  5. I do believe that you need the spring guide stopper although I may be mistaken , what it does is goes into the trigger this goes up and into the cylinder its what stops the cylinder from coming out as you pull it and compresses the spring , and you can use your original cylinder head although I do recommend the silent dampener one , I like my silent dampener pads they may hurt fps slightly but they do quieten down the sound of the piston and if you don't plan on opening your OLD cylinder yes you will NEED one. And nope that there is your full gun internals reworked basically you not missing anything , although SOME people feel they need new outer-barrels/receivers but unless you want a longer inner barrel (430-555mm) its not worth it , personally I've yet to see any other reason why anyone would buy these parts. edit: Also if your looking to get a new bucking for high power levels I recommend firefly hard , although I've heard ka and nineball are good, ive also heard of tearing issues with them and good luck opening your gun.
  6. You seem to be confused on the trigger , Its laylax zero trigger and PDI v-trigger , the difference is important, for example using a V-trigger you MUST use the piston that comes with it because of the sear degree PDI being 90 I believe, and laylax being only 45. Now you wont need either a new trigger or sears because at 35-375 you shouldn't need them the stock sears will last quite a while at that power id only upgrade them if you decide you want to up the power or the old sears wear down even then because of the relavtively low power level buying new sears would be more advantageous than a whole new trigger , I mean its alot cheaper and you wont need the higher tolerances the new triggers give and otehr advantages , because of that low power level. Anyway in short Yes new triggers come with the new sears , For 350-375fps id say offhand a 110 spring would do it. The new cylinder , not at this power level , just take your old cylinder to a pro to get the pin removed, teflon's nice but it only really gets hard to pull the bolt at 500 fps and over , and its also expensive and whenever mine gets scratched a bit from cocking the bolt I get a little angry that it can get scratched from the receiver if caught on the edge (disassembling re assembling solves this but its a pain.) To be honest if you want 350-375 it'd probably be better just to upgrade a reliable aeg , give it a tightbore etc the works although I suspect from your impressive armoury you've all ready done/considered this.
  7. How much of the rubber is sticking out , because I have a tiny bit of black showing too but its only about 1mm of it , its as far as I can screw in with my hands and I figure itll probably help silence it a little so I left it.
  8. Thats what I did , screwed the front of my rail too hard causing a bump to form , marked my teflon cylinder think I took the teflon layer straight off in one small place, if it happens I screwed the rail in so hard it broke right on through and then sanded down the edges around the hole so its smoth so now even if I screw too hard its just keeps turning and the screw wont actually reach the cylinder its-self.
  9. I wouldn't worry too much about a tightbore usually you'll get 10-20 more fps and with all probability it'd be slightly under the stated fps and id expect youd be within the +5% sites(at least where I go) allow.
  10. ` You are right it is a 170 that gives 550, my mistake a link to one I can find actually in stock is http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/airs...il?prodID=15447 also I wouldn't rule out the pdi , some people say there springs last longer than laylax ones, as with most other parts , however I have heard a lot about inconsistent fps , I was just pointing that out.
  11. I think , only think , that a 160 pdi spring gives about 340 fps (approx) lower than your stock most probably , id recommend a laylax spring as in fps terms they are more reliable , pdi springs tend to go all over the place in terms of fps , by a stroke of luck a laylax 160 (sp) spring would give about 550 fps.
  12. A site operating in the Uk where I live sell Digicon straights in .36 form and .3 form I buy em , though shipping to u.s might be a bit much for bb's there still around http://www.zerooneairsoft.com - ammo -.36g
  13. A zt will handle up to a 210 , so the zt wont break , and theres no set ,limit at which time internals break , I've seen a trigger sear go with a 130 srping , yet I've seen others use the same type of sear and last much longer with a 150 spring , plus quite a few people have 170 springs , there are internals that can handle it.
  14. Thanks a lot , I've bought about 3 different types of silicon lube for all purposes , thanks aloti just wanted to be sure , unless I accidently messed up my gun , and everything on maintenence guides just said lube , so thanks a lot.
  15. well I only have a 150 spring , but do have all the firing parts you have (I don't have a zero trigger) but I find mine reasonably hard, at 170 it should be fairly hard , id say be quite liberal with lube and make sure there are no bumps in your inner receiver (its happened to be just the other side on the outer barrel screwed my rail in too hard) this might make your pull harder but generally it should be quite hard , maybe you should do some weight training on your arm stronger (no offence intended.)
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