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About vulrath

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    ASF Citizen
  • Birthday 06/11/1987

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  • Location
    Memphis, TN USA

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  • Airsoft Replicas Owned
    TM P90 (shoots 360fps, running on 7.2v lipo and mosfet installed), KJW SIG P226, KJW M700 (upgraded with CO2 rig and other mods; shooting ~522 with .20's right now), UTG L96 (fully upped, shooting 550 fps), Escort MP5A5, TM VSR10 GSPEC, G&P WOCX M4, TM G36K, TM P226 with the works)
  1. Okay, what qualifies as "good" mids? I know DaytonaGun M4 users prefer G&P high rof mags, but beyond that I'm clueless. (Never used M4 AEGs except when loaned to me by teammates.) I know this should be rudimentary stuff here, but I've been my little "unique guns/sniper rifles" niche since I started playing.
  2. I just recently got my hands on a very well-worn Sun Project M4 with a bunch of the SniperX upgrades. Now I'm looking to correct my mag shortage. As I never ran M4 AEGs (actually never owned one; I ran a TM P90RDS, or a G&P WOK that got swapped out at the end of last year for a Viper Tech), I have no mags lying around. I was able to trade for a TM lowcap and a KWA hicap. The interesting news: the KWA fits and feeds like a champ, while the feed tube seems to be too long for the TM mag (it seems to fit real tight, and the mag doesn't come free without substantial force). I know the SP M4s tend to be picky about the mags they do and don't want to work with. I also know that the mags I have (namely a no-name mid that came with the gun and a JG hicap that I purchased against my better judgement) feed poorly. So, that leaves me trying to find some new mags. What say you, fellow SP M4 users?
  3. I tried it with an aluminum bolt on my old challenge kit M4. It technically worked, but the lugs of the bolt would get stuck in the notches in the barrel extension. Supposedly, you need a VT extension to do it properly, which needs a VT hop up (unless you want to get creative with a drill press/dremel), which in turn needs an AEG barrel and VT hop up bucking. I gave up on the idea, and ended up getting a Viper Tech rifle (Mk18Mod0) instead. I've been extremely happy with it, especially after drilling and tapping all of my mags for external air.
  4. I'm probably a bit late to the party, but what's your budget? The bigger the budget, the better the product, usually. King Arms' GBBR offering is garbage. Don't bother. I'd put it on par with AGM. The higher end G&P WOCs are pretty good. The WOC-X and the challenge kit M4 are decent starter guns, but you'll end up dumping more in it than if you'd bought the higher end gun. WA gives nice performance, but it's expensive and not as durable as other choices. I've heard decent things about the KWA LM4, but I'm not a fan of KWA so I've steered clear. DG is well worth the money. The M4 and SCAR models are built off GBBR bodies, but everything else uses an AEG body. Basically, the engine is an updated Escort engine (steel instead of brass). Great performance, but high cost. WE is viable now that there is aftermarket support, and the open bolt system has a redesigned hop up chamber that accepts AEG buckings and barrels. This was a BIG problem with my first-gen closed bolt SCAR (hop curved to the left, and there was nothing I could do about it, coupled with nozzles and NPAS units that kept falling apart from the recoil). GHK makes a decent GBBR, and their M4 mags are the stuff of legends. I used them in my old G&P and my SPR for a year or so before the SPR broke and I traded up. Viper Tech is what I'm using now. Been running a MK18Mod0 since November with GHK mags tapped for external regulated air. Performance is amazing, range is on par with some of my highly-upgraded sniper rifles. Forged and type 3 anodized receivers, steel internals. Closest thing you'll find to the real thing short of Inokatsu (which they used to OEM for).
  5. TM piston heads are a little weird. It's got a screw that is threaded into the back of the BBU, with the actual piston head (made from some kind of molded rubber) slipped on over that like a "cap." Since it's made of rubber, you can rest assured that it will be fine if you take it off. Lightly lube the piston head, then work the cylinder a few times and try again. I had similar compression issues with my highly upgraded TM 226; I ended up replacing the piston head. I also replaced the gas route packing in the magazines (the magazine rubber) with Nineball gas route packings. It's not perfect, but I can make it through a whole magazine before running out of gas. From what I can see from the pictures, it sure looks like a Guarder kit. EDIT: forgot to add that you never, ever put silicone in the gas. I don't know how that got started, but all you manage to do is get oil on the hop rubber and make a mess. Rather, always oil directly with a Q-tip.
  6. Does the hammer lock move freely? If I recall from my escapades with the challenge kit, I ended up with only one washer because it binds otherwise. You might need to take one out.
  7. Separate the upper and lower. Check to see if the shim is on the retaining pin for the hammer lock. This is a very important piece (without it the hammer lock bounces around and actually wears the selector switch in weird ways); I had similar problems and it took a few weeks to track down. I don't have the gun on me to check, but it should be installed on the right side (I think). If it isn't there, install one.
  8. You don't even need to put a silencer on NBB gas snipers. Outside of a couple of yards, no one can hear the pop. I've actually been asked if I even fired during a game because my KJ M700 makes so little noise. I've got it rigged to external air, and the G&G G96 I'm about to acquire will end up the same way. I run almost everything off gas these days (primarily the GBB M4), so it's not an inconvenience to me at all. Now, someone that doesn't already have everything set up like I do...That's a different story. I'd tell them to think long and hard about just how much money they want to spend and just how much modification they're comfortable doing to their rifle.
  9. Boneyard guns are guns that the store took back in refunds/exchanges because they were broken or missing parts. They typically sell these in "as is" condition. This is reflected in the (usually deeply discounted) price. It's very possible that the sears are damaged. Pot metal isn't exactly known for its durability.
  10. I finally got my M700 back from the machinist at the end of the year, and due to complications with moving I haven't been able to get a photo of it. I finally got the time last night. I had him cut the barrel down, and install the KM Head inner barrel that I had bought for the VSR and never used. Haven't gotten to play with it yet. I just stuck the G&G Stubby silencer on there because I was bored and because I needed the length to get it to sit properly in the safe. Silencers are near-useless long range for these things, but I might keep it on there because it amuses me.
  11. It's well worth the cost. You won't be disappointed.
  12. Viper Tech sells receiver sets. I almost bought one for a rebuild of my old WA-based DMR, but I just decided to scrap it and buy a whole VT rifle. If it's the same as the set that came as part of my rifle, it should have full-on Colt trades. M4 upper: http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/accessories/met...-m16a4-gbb.html M16A1 upper: http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/accessories/met...-xm177-gbb.html
  13. EDIT: Sorry, I'm a knucklehead and didn't read time stamps.
  14. If you're referring to the AA kit, as far as I can tell it uses the original outer barrel assembly. You might try finding a used Tanaka barrel, but those are hard to find and you'd have to replace the hop up chamber housing with one that's threaded like the Tanaka part. Another option is to try to go through KJW to get a replacement part. It's been done; it just takes a while as there are very few people that read English working there. The KJ barrel is actually apparently very good stuff - I have it on the authority of the machinist I sent my gun to in order to have the barrel chopped to accommodate the 400mm VSR barrel I have that the stock barrel is actually 6061 T5 aluminum.
  15. That shouldn't have affected it, though. The gauge is located on the gun side of the reg, not the tank side. A possibility is that while your rig was turned off/disassembled the adjustment screw got knocked/bumped/adjusted. I've had it happen a number of times, to the point I'm grateful for the LPR on the Palmers CO2 rig I have for my Viper Tech and Escort (I'd installed it for other reasons, but this is a fringe benefit). When there's no gas pressure, the screw is usually fairly loose because there isn't a plate in the reg putting pressure on it from the gas's attempts to move from an area of high pressure (the tank) to an area of low pressure (the output side of the reg). I've had a couple of regs that I could adjust by hand by turning off the gas flow and bleeding the line on the gun side. So, replace the gauge and reset the reg would be my advice.
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