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About Automobilie

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  • Birthday 11/08/1991

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    Airsoft, guitar, mechanic work, welding, photography, RC, and doctor visists....

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    2, 1, 7, 14
  • Airsoft Replicas Owned
    Aftermath AK-47 A&K M60vn Tokyo Marui Scorpion Tokyo Marui Desert Eagle Galaxy MP5K JG AK Beta KWA M9 JG AUG A1

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  1. Nifty design. If someone had a bunch of guns they could probably have a batch of PCB's printed out, but you'd still need to reinforce the traces.
  2. That means buying an entire new gearbox shell, wiring harness, and then refitting every part to work with it if it'll work with the body. This was a $0.50 switch and mostly an experiment to see what was needed to make it work.
  3. Since I usually have MOSFETs in my guns I've been wanting to try different trigger mechanisms. Having a bunch of tactile switches from an old VCR, and that they fit into the contact housing easily I decided to solder them in and tweak the trigger engagement to get a much shorter trigger pull while minimizing double firing on semi. Here's the album http://imgur.com/a/AIMrZ Basically, the trigger on my Spectre was soggy and would frequently double fire on semi. At first, widening the contacts worked, but the trigger felt worse. I've always wanted to try using a micro-switch or tactile switch in place of springy contact tabs. Since the RDP has a MOSFET it could the current and a light duty switch could be adjusted and used. By using a switch and adjusting contact points you can get a trigger that engages quickly and sharply. A micro switch should have better lifespan, so I'm curious how well this switch will hold up in the long run. The double firing is still there, but much much better. The slop in the gearbox shell and trolley are a bit too much to adjust it out all the way. I have thought about moving wires around and adding a set screw so that the trigger contacts could be adjusted right to the point it stops double firing. Here's a video of the result https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uNYvoOLbNfA&feature=youtu.be
  4. Might've gotten a v.3 tappet mixed up with the v.2. I've had that before.
  5. Trick I learned was to try a piece of paper over the bb pickup tube (Loosely). Load a bb into it first, holding the gun upside down, place the paper over the pickup tube. If you have a leak there, it'll puff the paper away.
  6. What renegade said. You're looking perpendicular to the barrel.
  7. I did eventually take the bipod off. Was making the barrel shift.
  8. Barack Obama has four a's. There are seven secret states. 7-4=3. Triangle have three sides! Illuminati confirmed
  9. Look up into the pickup tube. You shouldn't be able to see bucking lip protruding over the pickup tube. If you do, it's possible the BB's are catching on the overhang and getting jammed. Once it starts, the bucking might be out of shape and continue to do so.
  10. Take everything out excepr gears and piston. Close it up and see if the piston rolls easily on the gear. Sometimes pistons will have different spec than the gear teeth and will chew each other. Gnp and the white pistons did that to me once.
  11. If you're using acrylic clear coat, you need to wait about a week or two after painting your base coats, otherwise the solvents will either attack the cc or the cc will trap the solvents in the base. Making it take much longer to cure. Spray paints can dry within a day or two, but they aren't really 'cured' until a few weeks go by. If you can still smell paint a few inches away, it's not fully cured.
  12. If you can figure out Blender 3D, shapeways can 3D print parts for you for pretty cheap.
  13. Is the piston hitting the spring guide? I had a piston actually jam into a guide once. Also, have you added spacers or a sorbo pad for AOE?
  14. What I do when I rewire guns for Deans is take the old tamiya with a little extra lead and solder a deans onto that: effectively making adapters if I ever sell the gun or if someone needs one.
  15. $35 for a kit, much cheaper than the suppressor mounted ones. What model gun are you planning on using it in?
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