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Everything posted by Automobilie

  1. Nifty design. If someone had a bunch of guns they could probably have a batch of PCB's printed out, but you'd still need to reinforce the traces.
  2. That means buying an entire new gearbox shell, wiring harness, and then refitting every part to work with it if it'll work with the body. This was a $0.50 switch and mostly an experiment to see what was needed to make it work.
  3. Since I usually have MOSFETs in my guns I've been wanting to try different trigger mechanisms. Having a bunch of tactile switches from an old VCR, and that they fit into the contact housing easily I decided to solder them in and tweak the trigger engagement to get a much shorter trigger pull while minimizing double firing on semi. Here's the album http://imgur.com/a/AIMrZ Basically, the trigger on my Spectre was soggy and would frequently double fire on semi. At first, widening the contacts worked, but the trigger felt worse. I've always wanted to try using a micro-switch or tactile switch in place of springy contact tabs. Since the RDP has a MOSFET it could the current and a light duty switch could be adjusted and used. By using a switch and adjusting contact points you can get a trigger that engages quickly and sharply. A micro switch should have better lifespan, so I'm curious how well this switch will hold up in the long run. The double firing is still there, but much much better. The slop in the gearbox shell and trolley are a bit too much to adjust it out all the way. I have thought about moving wires around and adding a set screw so that the trigger contacts could be adjusted right to the point it stops double firing. Here's a video of the result https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uNYvoOLbNfA&feature=youtu.be
  4. Might've gotten a v.3 tappet mixed up with the v.2. I've had that before.
  5. Trick I learned was to try a piece of paper over the bb pickup tube (Loosely). Load a bb into it first, holding the gun upside down, place the paper over the pickup tube. If you have a leak there, it'll puff the paper away.
  6. What renegade said. You're looking perpendicular to the barrel.
  7. I did eventually take the bipod off. Was making the barrel shift.
  8. Barack Obama has four a's. There are seven secret states. 7-4=3. Triangle have three sides! Illuminati confirmed
  9. Look up into the pickup tube. You shouldn't be able to see bucking lip protruding over the pickup tube. If you do, it's possible the BB's are catching on the overhang and getting jammed. Once it starts, the bucking might be out of shape and continue to do so.
  10. Take everything out excepr gears and piston. Close it up and see if the piston rolls easily on the gear. Sometimes pistons will have different spec than the gear teeth and will chew each other. Gnp and the white pistons did that to me once.
  11. If you're using acrylic clear coat, you need to wait about a week or two after painting your base coats, otherwise the solvents will either attack the cc or the cc will trap the solvents in the base. Making it take much longer to cure. Spray paints can dry within a day or two, but they aren't really 'cured' until a few weeks go by. If you can still smell paint a few inches away, it's not fully cured.
  12. If you can figure out Blender 3D, shapeways can 3D print parts for you for pretty cheap.
  13. Is the piston hitting the spring guide? I had a piston actually jam into a guide once. Also, have you added spacers or a sorbo pad for AOE?
  14. What I do when I rewire guns for Deans is take the old tamiya with a little extra lead and solder a deans onto that: effectively making adapters if I ever sell the gun or if someone needs one.
  15. $35 for a kit, much cheaper than the suppressor mounted ones. What model gun are you planning on using it in?
  16. Update: The answer is yes. The rails for the piston were a bit stiff. The screw holes to the body were off half a mm at least. The contact housing was tight and the cut off lever had to be bent to work.
  17. Have a jg mp5, gearbox cracked, and found a guy with used shells. I asked for the g&g, but since I didn't specify it was for an MP5 he sent a CA shell. I've have issues in the paat with systema gb shells, but I have,vt worked on a CA in awhile. Were there still issues with CA specs and JG specs?
  18. Don't need a clear hop up for mine. You drill two 1/8" holes in the chamber ( where the nozzle fits into and glue the led harness into place. I shortened them so they shouldn't get in the way of the nozzle. Works very well on semi like this. The resistor-battery method works, but you have to deal with your battery draining flat and being able to get it in and out. It also won't run the led's at full power as the battery voltage drops. Mine is a current source that will rum the leds at full down to about 7v, yhen taper down. The capacitor helps compebsate for the motor drawing down your main battery.
  19. Hi guys. A few years ago I realized there were few to no options for internal tracer units on airsoft guns. The only option was the Madbull setups, which required an M4 hop unit. So I decided on developing a circuit for a hop up tracer unit that could run right off the motor in your gun so as to avoid needing switches and extra batteries. I eventually published a guide for a basic unit. I used that circuit for quite awhile, but didn't innovate on it much aside from some reliability tweaks. The last couple years I've been dealing with health problems which gave me a lot of time to work on the design. Looking around, no one really made HUTU's still and to get a decent tracer unit you needed to fork out $100 for a suppressor unit. I was studying Electrical Engineering and wanted to try SMD building, so I came up with a design to use a more professional PCB and have been developing ways to make a drop in kit that is much more affordable and easy to install. This is an install video I did not too long ago of putting on in an AK. Super simple to put in. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DNAFNMiUlwQ This is what I came up with. I'm thinking of calling them 'Beam' tracer units. It's a kit that splices right on to your motor leads, routes the unit to another part of the gun, and then connects two UV LED's to you hop up unit. They work very nicely and, so far, the PCB designs hold up, but are sensitive to being wired backwards. I've got 20 of them right now and am thinking about calling a few CQB fields to see if they're interested in purchasing a few to either sell or put in rental guns. My question to you guys is are these something that there is a market for? What is a fair price for one of these and, considering I've never sold anything on a larger scale , what are some pitfalls I need to watch out for?
  20. Made them. Had some brass woodscrews so I put them in a drill to turn them down, then threaded them. The piston I have has one of those spring weights on it so that got retapped too.
  21. I think it's a little too long. Works fine with my 8.4v and seems to have a good effect on volume, but I'll have to check without it again to be sure.
  22. A chronic condition characterized by boloid stator depleneration. If you reaffix the parallel girdle spring to the manual rod you can pretty much halt it.
  23. I'm not too worried since its a jg. I may get an aluminum head and tap it. Or try an acetal head.
  24. Those look really nice, but I may just try using a long screw and smooth it. Also have to wait to get a short gun since my only gun now is an AUG, which needs all the cylinder it can get.
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