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Star_folder

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Star_folder last won the day on May 24 2016

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About Star_folder

  • Rank
    Don't be a pansy.
  • Birthday 03/19/1991

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    South Carolina
  • Interests
    Airsoft.

Previous Fields

  • My Temperament:
    2,5,7,10
  • Airsoft Replicas Owned
    G&G L85A2, G&G G2010, Stark-Arms G18c, Custom M4
  1. East Coast is the best coast. Welcome to the forums.
  2. Upload a video to Youtube, describing noises is difficult.
  3. Active breaking isn't super common to be found right now. Generally, if you find someone who makes mosfets, you can ask them to make you an AB mosfet, they are usually able to do so. Off on a limb here, and a little out of left field, you could give an Infected Armories mosfet a go. They make AB fets and from what I understand, they aren't nearly as bad as they used to be.
  4. What brand Tar-21 is it? The Ares version has the hop up attached to the barrel, so you've got to remove the gearbox to pull the inner barrel out. I think the elite force is different, but I still think you have to remove the gearbox to pull out the barrel, it's just that the barrel isn't attached to the gearbox like it is in the Ares.
  5. The flat hop was similar. The G-hop was newly announced, and I had known about people sanding nubs down for the SCS which was popular at the time, but I didn't much care for either. The G-hop didn't seem to be solid enough to last, and sanding the bucking seemed iffy, inconsistent, rough, and you're still pinching the bucking between the nub and bb. So I had the thought to turn the bucking for a smooth side, that with the Firefly was kind of the start of the Flat Hop for me. I started experimenting with other materials instead of the crazy expensive Firefly nub. Somewhere among all this, I started the thread here.
  6. The teflon on your cylinder head between it and your air nozzle won't last long. The air nozzle moves really fast, it'll rip it up pretty quick. If your nozzle doesn't spring back forward, or seem to move when you shoot the gun, you may have misplaced the spring that pulls the tappet plate forward, or your nozzle may not be seated correctly on your tappet plate.
  7. DSG PDW Parts: 550 cord wrapped stock Black Magpul MBUS sights unknown Eotech 551 clone Magpul AFG 2 cut to fit Magpul XTMs Rotex - III C barrel extension and flash hider 32tpa Frankentorque BTC Spectre Mosfet Seigetek 10.44:1 DSG set Guarder Tappet (trimmed for DSG) SHS 15t SS-8 (non swiss cheesed) Lonex Piston head ZCI Cylinder head Lonex air nozzle Madbull Blue bucking R-hoped Barrel trimmed to 220mm (to match well with the flash hider) Modify SP170 spring (used and abused) If it wasn't mentioned, it's stock. Below it is seen with a 3500mah 14.8v 35c lipo. It is chronoed with .2s. Story time! I originally set out on this because I wanted another DSG after I got rid of the FN2k. I had a few requirements. It needed to be V2 or V3 for parts and ease of upgrading. It needed to take M4 mags because they have one of the highest feeding potentials, and I wanted it to be short, preferably a folding stock. Well, the PDW fit this description perfectly, I was especially fond of the 8" version. I managed to find some deals, pile some stuff for some pretty good deals. Eventually had myself a lovely little PDW. I wrapped the stock in 550 cord primarily to hold a battery in. I knew the gun was going to be rear wired, as there is no where for a decent battery in the front. I normally run an 11.1v, occasionally a 7.4v, in the gun. 14.8v is really just to show off. As a matter of fact, the above video is the first time I attempted to get a mag to feed at the 14.8v rof. I didn't know if it would, just so happens, it did, and quite well. :p This gun was to fit my needs for a CQBR, and it fits them very well. I currently enjoy the suppressor on it, it helps keep it a tad bit quieter, but is easy to remove for an even shorter gun, and then folding the stock basically makes this a glorified pistol. I generally use the gun like this for when I'm using it in the field. Mostly because it doesn't feel right using it this short: Why yes, that is serial number #14. :p Close up of the battery:
  8. One of these days I'm going to get myself another 417. Even with all the "fun" I had with it, it is one of the best guns I've ever owned, and one of my favorites. The design of the 417 really makes it hard for a buffer. There is a large plastic piece that sits in front of the hop up chamber to hold it in place, and it fits into the outer barrel. iirc, there aren't any level spots where you could put a metal buffer, and that's assuming that you would remove material from the large plastic piece that sits in front of the hop up. HunterSeeker5's suggestion of buying a G&P that looks close to what you want is a good suggestion. You should be able to sell that 417 for a nice bit of change, and turn that around to a brand new G&P M4.
  9. I would also check out hop up modifications, specifically the r-hop. That will do more than a new barrel will. Guges is right, a simple cleaning of the barrel, then polishing it, or lapping it will help as well.
  10. IMO this is the easiest thing to do. As long as you have someplace safe to ship your stuff, such as a friend or neighbor, you can avoid hassle by just shipping it to your new address.
  11. Yeah, that's not very high, and all the motors you've linked will put you above your goals. The A2 would give you about 50rps on this set up, for example. I would try to find a JG Blue, or a ZCI High Torque motor. They are both 22TPA, and should give you about what you're looking for. However, it might be easier to get some 13:1s and that A2, or an SHS High Torque. That'll put you around the 35-40rps mark, and might be a little easier than a DSG build.
  12. I suggest getting the gun first. See how you like it, then decide where you want to go from there. You could be very pleased with the stock accuracy of that G&G, and possibly the power as well.
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