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hell man345

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About hell man345

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  • Airsoft Replicas Owned
    Kjw 700 project
  1. Lefse, read my post. please don't get redundant on this thread. It's been said already. Yee, you bring up a good point with my first assumption. The heavier bb's hop will decay less because it has a higher moment of inertia (meaning a higher resistance to change in motion). My second assumption is right. Period. End of story. If you don't agree, you are wrong and I can't help you. With the same gun, any munition that is heavier will leave the barrel with less velocity than a lighter munition. .12s have higher muzzle velocity than .2s which have a higher mv than .25s and so on.... Do you get it now? Did you know that terminal velocity for an object with no force applied on it is 0m/s? If bbs were rockets, you would be right, but they aren't. Both bb's have already hit "terminal velocity" by leaving the gun. The idea of terminal velocity applies to falling objects and rockets, NOT GUNS. All of the innaccuracies in my assumptions were set up specifically so that they may NOT affect my final answer. Your right wtf is physics for anyway? It's not like it got any to the moon or anything. These is the same goddam methods that put Neil Armstrong and Sputnic in space. If you don't see the purpose of my saying this, there is no point.... You may have completely missed where I said I have put everything from .12g to .43g bbs down my barrel. What I have seen is that the heavier bb's travel farther as long as the hop is tuned to them. I'm sorry if I sound frustrated but Yee, please re-read my post. It's long, but is filled with ideas that will help you EVERY DAY. Yes, that is how important derivatives are.
  2. I really did want to end all the ignorance in the world with one post... Let's see how that goes. Everyone has said something right so far, don't get me wrong. I just wanted to give a total picture, besides, once you get your head around its concepts, Calculus starts to appear EVERYWHERE. It is such a helpful tool especially when talking in ballistics.
  3. I made one myself... for free... It works fantastically... Just saying, I really don't need to buy something. This was not supposed to be a thread about what you can do to your hop unit to improve it(seems like the craftsmen have hit this part now). This was supposed to be a helpful little reminder that stock airsoft guns come with the upgrades. You just need to reconfigure the gun a little.
  4. Yes I could do the r hop too. I just started looking at the r hop and it looks like these two could work in the same gun. I might have to try it. As for the lrb, I have the g&g heavy barrel, it's not possible.
  5. You got it just right. O and I don't have a flat hop, just an old school hard bucking turned waaaay up.
  6. Improvised hop nubs were first introduce to me by Brainplay, and he has an awesome thread on making an H-nub for a Kjw m700. I took this to the extreme. I won't go into as much detail, and hopefully Brainplay will drop by and throw a link in here to his thread so you all can get some idea on the specs. This is meant to be an extension to his thread, not a stand-alone. I had this idea way back when I was still posting here and actually finished my final product before I left. Sorry for jealosly guarding my idea when it could be helping all you sadists. It all started when I realized Schredder was trying to get the perfect arc to hug the bb while it sits in the hop chamber. What else happens to hug the bb just so, within hundredths of a millimeter. The barrel! Have you ever wondered why you wanted to keep the old p.o.s. stock barrel from your rifle? NO? Well then shame on YOU! I used a dremel to cut out a piece of the barrel at the muzzle. I thought, "this is great, there's already an angle so the nub doesn't cut the bucking when the bb flies through". If you don't know what I'm talking about, go take a look down your barrel right now! Then I used a file to even out the edges and refine the fit. I then placed this nub under the old stock one to keep it in just the right spot. The 6.1mm diameter seems to be just enough extra to make up for the bucking, but you might have even better results than me with a tightbore. As of now I would say my hop up is perfect, but I only shoot Bioval .4s which need an ungodly amount of hop to get to work. The bbbmax(clear) all say hello to St. Peter now, its a dam shame too, I have 2000 left. Go on, give it a try. Just make sure u remember to take out the screw that pushes the hop down when you set it so you don't accidentally murder your bucking.
  7. You are absolutely right, it is NOT something I wanted to read. People here have the right ideas, but not all the ones that count. For the record, I just completed AP physics Mechanics, my dad Taught high school physics. My mother has a Batchelor's in physics. I have plenty of experience with bb's from .12g to .43g. My rifle was a kjw 700 and now has more parts made by me than by KJW. This is all to say that, not only do I understand the theory behind this, I have plenty of practice with it. Trust me when I say I know what I'm talking about. To start, let me explain that Physics theory regarding airsoft ballistics has not changed since you left, in fact I still prefer the old (1970s) textbooks on this matter. A fundamental concept you all should know about is the Derivative, as this problem is riddled with them. Derivatives are equations that can show you slope (or rate of change) of a function (any quantitative value imaginable) at any point regardless of curves in the graph. To help you out, Acceleration is the rate of change (or the derivative) of velocity (with respect to time). Velocity is the rate of change (or the derivative) of distance, or position with respect to time. Now here's something you probably didn't know, Force (mass*acceleration) is the rate of change (or the derivative) of Momentum. Momentum (mass*velocity) is the rate of change (or the derivative) of Energy (mass*velocity*velocity/2). Put differently, the anti-derivative (or integral) is the accumulation of a function. This is a little tricky to explain, but I'll try anyway. The best way I can think of is filling a pool with a hose. The water coming out of the hose comes at a certain rate. The integral(or accumulation) of this rate over time is the quantity of water poured into the swimming pool. If you are still reading, let me tip my hat to you, I am being obnoxiously technical. You deserve better. Here's the part where I tell you why you just read all this mambo jumbo. Almost, but first, we have some assumptions to make. First Assumption: You can adjust your hop according to the bb and give it an appropriate backspin and level flight pattern. If all bb's have the same arc trajectory (hopefully that sweetspot) then we can ignore the Magnus Effect, because it will impart the same force on each bb, regardless of mass. Second Assumption:Lighter bbs give higher muzzle velocity. Third Assumption: The heavier bb will accumulate MORE momentum. Because the bb has a higher mass, it's Acceleration will the lower. Since the Acceleration is lower, the Velocity will be lower at the same time(NOT position) as the lighter bb. This means the Distance of the heavy bb will also be smaller than the lighter bb at equal times. So, hopefully you guessed, the heavy bb will remain in the barrel longer and will be subject to propulsion Force longer. This means that the heavy bb accumulates more moment simply because it is being pushed longer. To be fair though, I don't know how much higher the momentum will be so lets consider both momentums equal at the muzzle. Fourth Assumption: This isn't so much of an assumption as an established fact. Gravity will accelerate all bb's downward at the same rate. This acceleration can be calculated completely separate of all our other values because they run perpendicular to gravity. Really, try it out, the sine of 0 is ALWAYS going to be 0, this is exactly how much of the vertical acceleration impacts the horizontal. As promised, I will now get to the EXPLANATION: When the bb leaves the muzzle it is subject to a Force, air resistance. This force is nv. V is velocity, and n is a ratio between velocity and air resistance. I don't know what the quantity of n is so I will work around it. We can all accept that Lighter bb's= higher muzzle velocity. Therefore, the lighter bb will have more air resistance, but I'm nice so I'll say its close enough not to make a difference. The Force that acts on these bbs is equal to the mass of the bb times acceleration of the bb. F=MA So I am clear, an acceleration that is negative (sometime is reffered to as deceleration) will reduce the velocity of an object. Greater acceleration from here on means A (value of acceleration) is more negative. As I have said in my assumptions section, we are going to say that the force from air resistance is equal. Also lets say M is the bigger mass of the heavier bb and m is the smaller mass of the lighter bb. F=MA=mA M=.25g m=.2g If your not just waiting for me to show you all the work you may have guessed that the Acceleration of the smaller bb will have a greater magnitude than that of the larger bb. The smaller bb needs to make up for its smaller mass in order for the two forces to be equal (like they ARE). If you haven't already said to yourself, "O, of course! Self, the greater negative acceleration (funny concept isn't it?) will reduce the velocity by more." there is no hope for you. The lighter bb will always have a greater acceleration that the heavy one, and because the rate of change is greater, the velocity will change by MORE! And that also means that the distance will not accumulate as much in the time it takes the bb to drop. Uh, I really hope I haven't dumbed this down too much now, I'm running on pages. Conclusion: If, by now, you don't agree with me when I say that heavier bbs will travel farther, I don't know why you've read this far. I could have also included in this a proof as to why heavier bbs WILL hurt more, but hopefully you have learned enough to apply the concepts. If you can, CONGRATULATIONS, you now understand Calculus. Afterward: I have taken a great deal of time writing this and translating it from math/physics/geek. I like to think I've earned a little something from you for my effort. So, when your friends or teammates have misconceived notions about this subject you explain it to them. Not to tell them they are wrong, but to help them understand this better. Hopefully, this will be the end all to this ongoing argument. But I know you can't kill ignorance with bbs, so maybe just one of you will know, with confidence, how this all works. Peace
  8. hell man345

    BB Dimples

    Jonsun, you hit the nail on the head. And Yee, I couldn't have copied it better myself. To everyone else (and of course Jordan) I'm sorry I forgot to mention the actual purpose of this thread. There have been countless threads theorizing, poking at, smiting and questioning this idea, but it all came to the fact that no one knew how to make dimpled bbs, 6mm was just too small, and may still be. This topic may have lost its favor in the last year since I went quiet and I definitely don't blame people for not knowing what it is, until now it was just a neat ideal. Now, it's more of a disappointment than an ideal, to me at least. I'm going to try and think of a pattern for dimpling these bb's that will work well. This is going to be a lot of fun math. Does anyone remember the formula for the surface area of a sphere? Particularly one that is 6mm in diameter? EDIT: Dimpling may have first appeared in the sniper section of the forums. Only a sniper would waste enough time to dimple all the bb's that go down his, or her, barrel for that last possible range boost.
  9. hell man345

    BB Dimples

    This is exactly what happened 7 times out of 8. And I'm with you, all that work and only sub-par results. It needs to get better, and I was wondering if I could get some help making this worthwhile.
  10. hell man345

    BB Dimples

    This is not just another hypothetical thread on dimpling bbs. I figured out a method for dimpling bbs. So I must ask that you never use the word "would" in this thread. All this word has meant in past Dimple threads is "I don't ACTUALLY know anything, I'm just guessing". Now that that's out of the way, let's get to it. Method: I used bioval's .4g bbs because they are soft and also happen to be my favorite. You could probably use any bb you damn well please, just don't waste your time trying it with bbbmax(clear and harder than steel). Roll the bb around on sand paper in a pattern that will cover the bb with dimples. Results: This takes the shine off your bb as the surface is now fill with holes and cracks. It's not exactly how I imagined the perfect bb but its a prototype. Performance: I fired 8 bb's total, 4 through a mag, 4 directly inserted into the chamber. Only 1 of these shots came out promising. It was one of the bbs that never touched the mag. The flight path of most was completely skewed and looked a lot like I was using .2s while firing the gun sideways. The bbs that went through the mag were completely useless, most left my field of view. The ONE bb that showed promise teatered left to right but followed a straight path. It even had noticably less drop (from 1.7 for normal bbs notches to 1.2 notches). The path of the bb wobbled no more than a couple inches left and right. This shot was good enough for a game. Your Turn: I want you to try out your own patterns of dimpling and see if you can find one that works. I rolled the first 4 in a large (3cm radius) circle and then a small (0.5cm radius) one alternating the two. These 4 went into the mag and were completely useless. The next 4 I made by rolling the bb up and down a line 4cm long, then over .5cm or so, and up and down another line. None of these were actually measured and I think that was part of the problem. If you do try this out, please o please post your results, performance, and methods here! Other Info: I used a Kjw M700 with a KA bucking, Madbull Python (version II), Regulator (Custom Products), Leapers 4x scope, a bipod, Custom Hop nub (similar to S.C.S.), level, g&g heavy barrel set, and more that makes little difference in this test. I was shooting a tree at about 200 ft. This was by no means an ideal test, however; I still managed to learn a few things.
  11. Edi, chill. I am disagreeing with you here, not on TK, not on your donation sale. I stand by my statement, the UTG 324 is NICE, and if any sniper rifle is worth the money stock, its this one. I did NOT say it can outperform a fully loaded, high end sniper rifle. I said it could outperform clone aegs, it is more accurate, longer range and quieter than an ECHO1 G36. From my experience, stock, clone aegs account for half the guns on the field. I did not intend to make out the 324 as a top dog by any means.
  12. Actually, loctite was origionaly supposed to replace a gasket on a car engine. It worked great because it never hardenned and wasn't soluble in anything. The only problem is it is semi soluble in several materials, like gasoline. This meant that specs of the stuff would get spat about when under pressure and make it into places they shouldn't be. I am absolutely horrified of this stuff getting into my bold or on any of the rubble seals in the m700. I recommend getting some quality tape dope (teflon) and using that stuff. I did use loctite for some of my seals and had to get rid of it because it wasn't strong enough and would spit when under pressure. It can't handle 800 psi from a CO2 tank.
  13. Let me get this straight. You, Gaming Now, have the nerve to come into a sniper forum thread and tell us something we already know, that sniper's aren't worth the money. That You, Edi First, think that UTG's l96 sucks stock and can't compete. And finally that You, Sniping Benny, don't know the first, third or seventy second thing about the UTG Shadow ops L96, despite calling yourself a sniper and having spent enough time on this forum to see the search button. FOR SHAME! As far as sniper rifles go, UTG makes some awesome stock guns. Since I didn't need a single upgrade for my m324 beyond diy to outclass aeg clones, I would say if any sniper rifle is worth the money, it's gonna be a UTG. Taking good care of your rifle, cleaning,using good ammo, keeping everything aligned, spaced, properly lubricated, and using good ammo will do way more for you than a silly spring.
  14. I have done plenty of sanding of aluminum surfaces and they always end up darker after about 20 mins. The dust is a really dark gray. By the way, I am convinced that madbull uses a LOT of anodizing material to bulk out their black pythons. They just aren't even close to the weight I'd expect from an aluminum barrel like a utg m324. You could fill the nozzle with epoxy and re drill the hole to reduce the diameter. You can do the math to find out how much you need to reduce the diameter, I'm sure.
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