Jump to content

to add your 300x250 banner, pay ad zone 5
Airsoft Atlanta is your source for quality airsoft guns and rifle parts
to add your Text Link here, pay ad zone 3

AirsoftAtlanta.com AirsoftNMore.com Airsplat.com AirsoftRC.com
Vote for us to add your 180x30 banner here, pay ad zone 2

If you appreciate this website, please ASF Donation or Check Out the ASF Store. If you can not help us financially,
then at least help us by telling a friend: Share us on your favorite social networking website Bookmark and Share


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


Everything posted by heathovc

  1. Constant load also wears down springs. Compressing a spring all the way for a long time adds tension on the metal and can, given enough time, alter the length of the spring by repositioning the molecules. 2 days, probably doesn't hurt it. 2 months...that might, and you'll have to re-stretch it. Just look at car springs. I hate when people say long time compression doesn't hurt springs...it does, but it depends on the spring. After 150k miles or so, compare the spring to a new OEM spring. Usually they are about .5 inch shorter and are softer. Airsoft springs are much softer than car springs, and lose their firmness faster. If it seemed fine, your spring probably isn't too bad.
  2. works better than electrical tape and probably won't slide as much in the 111º heat.
  3. Okay, 1 shouldn't be causing the problem. 2: by "basically" stock, does that mean you upgraded one or both of the sears? I'm going to assume they are both JG. 3: yes it is, it can cause friction and loss of compression, possibly a lockup, or o-ring tear. Lube your entire cylinder on the inside lightly with silicone grease. Just take a penny size dab and rub it all throughout the cylinder with your finger or a long swab or something. Also, have you lubed the piston sear and the trigger sear with grease? Lube every moving part on the surfaces that touch. very lightly is all it takes. Have you put the Teflon cylinder back in to check if it works or slams after this incident occurred with the stock cylinder? 5: Stock spring means it's not jumbling up causing a lockup, that's good. 6: is good. so worry about 3. Let me know how that works out.
  4. 1) What brand of piston are you using? 2) What brand of piston/trigger sear are you using? 3) Did you lube your cylinder? 4) Any CLOSE UP (use macro function) pictures of your trigger sear's sides, piston sear, spring guide stopper? 5) What spring are you using? 6) Is your spring guide stopper in place and unbroken? Most likely a hairline fracture in the middle of your trigger sear near the pin that supports the piston sear. This is what happened to mine.
  5. Those 2 areas are the only places you should teflon tape. Anywhere else and it will not affect performance. No air nozzle teflon tape. lol blow chunks.
  6. no no, my gun never arcs at 300 feet. it's a million fps. rofl. I use a soft bucking in my BAR-10...works amazing. Part of it is ripped, but it doesn't affect the air sealing or the bb flight.
  7. FLIP FLOOOOOOPS.... Nice gun man. real nice! Wish mine said Stoner Rifle on the side, too bad it's not an SR-25 either.
  8. I started with walmart, but if you're going anywhere other than your back yard, I would go an online retailer, or a local retailer that is dedicated to airsoft. Crosman BB's probably will not shatter in your gun, but they will when they hit your target or something near your target. BBs should deform, not shatter. Since you are looking toward mp5s, go the JG or Echo1 MP5/AK74 route, or if you have a money tree, a Tokyo Marui MP5-J or G&G CRW. Also, crosman BBs fly wildly because of air bubbles, and they jam in any barrel less than 6.08mm inner diameter.
  9. with only 1 bb fired, right? and how much would it arc? 0º
  10. I had this problem before...but not with a teflon cylinder. I just took it all apart, cleaned it, and put it back together. It seemed to fix the issue. You probably have too little lubrication in the cylinder making it stick. Yes, even teflon needs lubrication if you want it to seal correctly and slide.
  11. yes I love my magpul grip, although it can get hot and stay hot... and I had to shave a bit with a knife to get the heatsink to slide freely into the grip. it takes metric hex fine-threaded screws that are easily obtained at your hardware store. It has plenty of room for wiring, and it has something similar to rivet nuts (which reverts back to the thread topic)!
  12. as my sig image shows, I have an adaptive role weapon. it's awesome...when it works. At least you're smart and try to get as many parts as you can from the same manufacturer.
  13. use imageshack and your bandwidth won't go out. haha. but yes. exactly like that. iPad? Seriously, if I could, I'd blend them all using a blender.
  14. Puffin, if you can get that thing to handle like a butter knife, like it does in Call of Fail, I'd say you're good.
  15. If you want to hit anything with reasonable accuracy, 120 feet is a good start. The farthest headshot I've ever made was 181 feet, for instance.
  16. Remember when doing this mod, my modifying things with files and sandpaper. you can always subtract but you can't always add.
  17. put a plastic epoxy into the holes, then insert your screws without the heatsink. and let the epoxy harden. then screw out your screws. This will hold long enough for you to grab a magpul MOE grip.
  18. I am using the stock o-ring. threw the NEO piston's o-ring away. When the stock one goes, which one do I get? I'll see if I can get a new spring. at least this gun works well with .25s and .30s which are my primary ammo. Cost effectiveness! :D yeah I looked at the spring and it was kinda wavy, when my stock one is still straight. Thanks dude. EDIT: took it apart, stretched the spring JUST a bit and bam. 447 with .25. Sometimes it will double feed though. but that's expected from this hop up's shape. Just need a replacement u-thing. lol.
  19. Remember shooting is not the only thing a sniper does. The rifle is only a tool to accomplish your job as reconnaissance. With the limitations of airsoft, the sniper is less of a threat because he cannot reach out and touch someone. You can always walk your BBs with an aeg and shoot 200+ feet. It sounds like you haven't had much practice, and that's exactly what you will need to get better. When you go out though, always work on SOMETHING you think you lack. I know I lack still at judging distances of anything further than 150 feet. Usually at around 100 feet, my opponents call themselves out, because they hurt, and you can hear the "THACK!" of the BB, so I always try to get that close to my enemy or let them get that close to me, or I just don't take the shot. The sniper usually gets the least amount of kills on the field compared to his AEG buddies. But I give away all their positions, muahaha. Oh, and another thing you'll need... Practice My $0.02 anyway. Good luck on your choice
  20. If I go to an airsoft game, I expect people to wear what they want, unless it's a game where people have to wear a specific period loadout. I'm never offended by any loadout because I wear what I desire and don't give a flip about what others think because they didn't research or buy it. It's an airsoft game, and a game it should be. But if you're outside the field, it's probably best not to wear stuff like that because you could be a 'suspected' terrorist. The world's not fair, but that's how it works unfortunately, thanks to all these people who want complete security and no privacy. If you're in a ally v axis game, and you want the REAL experience, you should talk like soldiers from that period as well, hang out at posts under spot lights...etc. If you don't like it, you're in the wrong hobby. Believe it or not, but some do say it never took place...
  21. My bar 10 is 2.5 years old, and well used, actually, beyond well used. It is still awesome and shoots on target provided the hop bucking is in good shape. One thing, and I may have left it cocked for a few months accidentally... Took it all apart, relubed it, and did my normal cleaning routine. I just chronographed 10 shots at an average of 437 fps or the equivalent of a 130SP. I have a Laylax PSS10 150SP spring in there that is about 2 years old. Is it normal for them to wear that much after many thousands of shots or leaving it cocked for 2 months during hiatus? When I put the spring in 2 years ago, it chronographed at 510 fps, as expected. By the way, Laylax NEO piston, trigger sear, and piston sear still look brand new 1 year after insertion and about 2000 more rounds. :) What size o-ring does the piston take if you think it's the culprit? I have to go to the hardware store anyway to pick up a hex nut for the bipod.
  22. Yup. What kept happening was it bent my trigger sear so that it would barely hold up to pressure, holds fine when you're pulling back, then when you let go, there's just enough play that the piston sear slips. try to get the same manufacturer of the piston sear. Also, try to lube your parts to keep the wear down. it looks like there isn't any unless you cleaned it all off... moly lithium works with just a very very thin layer.
  23. well a coconut is a good size for a head.... just like a Cadillac is a unit of measure for "luxury"
  24. Never played Black Ops...but that is one sweet muffin gun.
  25. Your TRIGGER sear is cracked below the pin. sort of like this, which happened to mine. ignore the arrow on the right. Get a laylax trigger sear and that should fix the problem.
  • Create New...