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heathovc

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Posts posted by heathovc


  1. Constant load also wears down springs. Compressing a spring all the way for a long time adds tension on the metal and can, given enough time, alter the length of the spring by repositioning the molecules. 2 days, probably doesn't hurt it. 2 months...that might, and you'll have to re-stretch it. Just look at car springs. I hate when people say long time compression doesn't hurt springs...it does, but it depends on the spring. After 150k miles or so, compare the spring to a new OEM spring. Usually they are about .5 inch shorter and are softer. Airsoft springs are much softer than car springs, and lose their firmness faster. If it seemed fine, your spring probably isn't too bad.


  2. 1. JG

    2. JG (basically stock)

    3. I only did lube by oring. Do I need lube for the hole cylinder? Isn't that bad for accuracy?

    4. Nope, but I don't think the sears are the issue since it fires fine when I had a Teflon cylinder.

    5. Stock spring

    6. Yes

     

    I don't see any fractures on trigger mech.

     

    Okay, 1 shouldn't be causing the problem.

    2: by "basically" stock, does that mean you upgraded one or both of the sears? I'm going to assume they are both JG.

    3: yes it is, it can cause friction and loss of compression, possibly a lockup, or o-ring tear. Lube your entire cylinder on the inside lightly with silicone grease. Just take a penny size dab and rub it all throughout the cylinder with your finger or a long swab or something. Also, have you lubed the piston sear and the trigger sear with grease? Lube every moving part on the surfaces that touch. very lightly is all it takes. Have you put the Teflon cylinder back in to check if it works or slams after this incident occurred with the stock cylinder?

    5: Stock spring means it's not jumbling up causing a lockup, that's good.

    6: is good. so worry about 3. Let me know how that works out.


  3. 1) What brand of piston are you using?

    2) What brand of piston/trigger sear are you using?

    3) Did you lube your cylinder?

    4) Any CLOSE UP (use macro function) pictures of your trigger sear's sides, piston sear, spring guide stopper?

    5) What spring are you using?

    6) Is your spring guide stopper in place and unbroken?

     

    Most likely a hairline fracture in the middle of your trigger sear near the pin that supports the piston sear.

    This is what happened to mine.

    crackedsear.th.png


  4. I started with walmart, but if you're going anywhere other than your back yard, I would go an online retailer, or a local retailer that is dedicated to airsoft. Crosman BB's probably will not shatter in your gun, but they will when they hit your target or something near your target. BBs should deform, not shatter. Since you are looking toward mp5s, go the JG or Echo1 MP5/AK74 route, or if you have a money tree, a Tokyo Marui MP5-J or G&G CRW.

     

    Also, crosman BBs fly wildly because of air bubbles, and they jam in any barrel less than 6.08mm inner diameter.


  5. I had this problem before...but not with a teflon cylinder. I just took it all apart, cleaned it, and put it back together. It seemed to fix the issue. You probably have too little lubrication in the cylinder making it stick. Yes, even teflon needs lubrication if you want it to seal correctly and slide.


  6. sorry for jacking your thread, but are magpul MOE grips really worth the money? What type of screws hold in the heatsink/back plate(M3 or the wood threaded screws). Also is there a lot of room for wires?

     

    If you want a really good solution that wont strip out again, try jamming in and gluing a rivet nut to replace the threading(if there is enough room for it).

     

    yes I love my magpul grip, although it can get hot and stay hot... and I had to shave a bit with a knife to get the heatsink to slide freely into the grip. it takes metric hex fine-threaded screws that are easily obtained at your hardware store. It has plenty of room for wiring, and it has something similar to rivet nuts (which reverts back to the thread topic)!


  7. I am using the stock o-ring. threw the NEO piston's o-ring away. When the stock one goes, which one do I get? I'll see if I can get a new spring. at least this gun works well with .25s and .30s which are my primary ammo. Cost effectiveness! :D

     

    yeah I looked at the spring and it was kinda wavy, when my stock one is still straight. Thanks dude.

     

    EDIT: took it apart, stretched the spring JUST a bit and bam. 447 with .25. Sometimes it will double feed though. but that's expected from this hop up's shape. Just need a replacement u-thing. lol.


  8. Remember shooting is not the only thing a sniper does. The rifle is only a tool to accomplish your job as reconnaissance. With the limitations of airsoft, the sniper is less of a threat because he cannot reach out and touch someone. You can always walk your BBs with an aeg and shoot 200+ feet. It sounds like you haven't had much practice, and that's exactly what you will need to get better. When you go out though, always work on SOMETHING you think you lack. I know I lack still at judging distances of anything further than 150 feet. Usually at around 100 feet, my opponents call themselves out, because they hurt, and you can hear the "THACK!" of the BB, so I always try to get that close to my enemy or let them get that close to me, or I just don't take the shot. The sniper usually gets the least amount of kills on the field compared to his AEG buddies. But I give away all their positions, muahaha. Oh, and another thing you'll need...

     

    Practice

     

    My $0.02 anyway. Good luck on your choice :a-grin:


  9. If I go to an airsoft game, I expect people to wear what they want, unless it's a game where people have to wear a specific period loadout. I'm never offended by any loadout because I wear what I desire and don't give a flip about what others think because they didn't research or buy it. It's an airsoft game, and a game it should be. But if you're outside the field, it's probably best not to wear stuff like that because you could be a 'suspected' terrorist. The world's not fair, but that's how it works unfortunately, thanks to all these people who want complete security and no privacy.

     

    If you're in a ally v axis game, and you want the REAL experience, you should talk like soldiers from that period as well, hang out at posts under spot lights...etc.

     

    If you don't like it, you're in the wrong hobby.

     

    History cannot be denied. It happened, so we should not prohibit it, pretending that it never existed. It would be like saying that the Holocaust never took place.

    Believe it or not, but some do say it never took place...


  10. My bar 10 is 2.5 years old, and well used, actually, beyond well used. It is still awesome and shoots on target provided the hop bucking is in good shape. One thing, and I may have left it cocked for a few months accidentally... :a-angry: Took it all apart, relubed it, and did my normal cleaning routine. I just chronographed 10 shots at an average of 437 fps or the equivalent of a 130SP. I have a Laylax PSS10 150SP spring in there that is about 2 years old. Is it normal for them to wear that much after many thousands of shots or leaving it cocked for 2 months during hiatus? When I put the spring in 2 years ago, it chronographed at 510 fps, as expected.

     

    By the way, Laylax NEO piston, trigger sear, and piston sear still look brand new 1 year after insertion and about 2000 more rounds. :)

     

    What size o-ring does the piston take if you think it's the culprit? I have to go to the hardware store anyway to pick up a hex nut for the bipod.


  11. Yup. What kept happening was it bent my trigger sear so that it would barely hold up to pressure, holds fine when you're pulling back, then when you let go, there's just enough play that the piston sear slips. try to get the same manufacturer of the piston sear. Also, try to lube your parts to keep the wear down. it looks like there isn't any unless you cleaned it all off... moly lithium works with just a very very thin layer.

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