Jump to content

heathovc

Member
  • Content Count

    386
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    %

Everything posted by heathovc

  1. A 9.6v 3800 mAh should get you 19 or so on standard ratio flat gears and an m120/sp120 spring
  2. in addition to the spring downgrade, you could also replace the cylinder with a type 0 (no hole, solid cylinder, non-bore up) It should lower fps by 30 or so. I don't know about the accuracy and if it's affected.
  3. I was using a madbull blue, and it sucked, so I'm on to the echo 1 one that came with my new hop up (two piece shizzle)
  4. do some research as to which one you should buy (if you need one at all). if you have an m16 length or more cylinder, you want a solid.
  5. With the ported cylinder, the piston isnt being slowed down by air (and thus travels faster) until it gets to the end of the hole. This is why they are called "matched" cylinders. When it reaches the end of the hole, the piston pushes the smaller quantity of air, but under much greater pressure. It reaches maximum efficiency at the end of the m4 barrel instead of 15cm past the end of it. its some confusing physics. here's the article I read. It was very convincing, so much that I had to try it. http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=18038
  6. I found out that the solid cylinder is for the m16 barrel (509mm) and the ported cylinder that I had stock is for the m4 barrel (363mm). With an XCortech chronograph I was doing consistent around 400 fps with .20 :D I'm very happy. He said it ranged from 396-404. Excellent.
  7. I don't have a hundred dollar chrono but I wish I did. And it was a Dr. Pepper can (both before and after, from the same case), made by a division of the Coke company so I sure hope it's similar. I plan to buy new wiring, deans, a metal body/hop up and a mosfet (cuz I use semi-auto a lot) with the money I would use on 2 chronos lol.
  8. Solved the problem. I was using the unported cylinder from the FTK. I am now using my stock ported cylinder with wonderful results. I pierced the bottom of a dr pepper can which it did not do with the unported cylinder. You would think it would be the other way around!
  9. Well I replaced the hop up chamber and my fps went up by nearly 20 (to 376 fps max according to a very good chrono at my local pro's store...at 17.66 rps btw.). It may be the classic army gearbox being set back by a couple millimeters because the pin and the tabs conflict. I was told that with my non-bore-up cylinder, the guarder 120 would get me 380 at max, but if I upgraded to bore up it would be 400. Is this true? is bore up worth the cost? I think the hop up chamber was conflicting with the nozzle because I inspected my nozzle and it had plastic rub marks from the previous chamber and thus preventing the nozzle from touching the bucking. Another hop up question. The madbull blue hop up that I had sits extremely tight in my hop up (if I can ever get it on), is this normal? Because of this, I put an e1 hop up sleeve in there and it works perfectly so I'm not changing it unless you think the hop up blue would be better. Edit: I found an article describing ported and unported cylinders, I'm going to put my ported one back in and see if it gets me anything.
  10. I have been working on this problem for weeks and taken my gearbox apart countless times. I can't figure out why my m4 (standard carbine length with a 363mm 6.03mm wide barrel) with an sp120 spring, which came with the full tune up kit, shoots consistently 350 feet per second with a .20g bb when it should shoot above 400. My steps to remedy 1) take piston/cylinder/tappet/nozzle assembly to test compression at the gearbox level Results: perfect compression with almost no air leak at the nozzle. Same results with the guarder piston head I have for spare. 2) replace hop up bucking and nubbin Results: more accuracy and a little better range, but no effect on fps 3) checked nozzle to hop up compression by putting nozzle to hop up and blowing. Results: perfect compression. 4) shaved the minor bump on the back of the molded hop up chamber to flatten it neatly to the gearbox Results: minimal to none. I'm sure it would help to have my specs. JG ABS Bodied M4 (not really a JG anymore lol) Noveske 2 piece outer barrel Classic Army reinforced shell Guarder nozzle (with o-ring) Guarder cylinder (solid, non-bore-up) Guarder cylinder head (double o-ring) Guarder std ratio steel gears (shimmed correctly with guarder/modify shims) Guarder polycarbonate piston Guarder sp120 spring JBU aluminum piston head JG stock tappet plate (the guarder one was bent) JG stock switch and trigger assembly JG stock hop up chamber Madbull hop up bucking and nubbin Madbull tightbore 363mm AMP long type high torque motor Custom-made 9.6v 3800 mAh battery I don't know how much of this is relevant, but seeing as I can't figure out the problem aside from a lemon spring, any of it could be. Anything else I can do? I really need that extra 40-50 fps gain for my field games (I use .28s because of the insane groupings it gets me).
  11. well...I shot around 377 fps with .23g bb, stock if that gives you any set mark.
  12. This was the problem I have been trying to solve for at least 3 weeks! the dremel thing worked, even though I only drilled about 2 mm :) Any idea where to find a metal one of these u-buggers?
×
×
  • Create New...