Jump to content

to add your 300x250 banner, pay ad zone 5
Airsoft Atlanta is your source for quality airsoft guns and rifle parts
to add your Text Link here, pay ad zone 3

AirsoftAtlanta.com AirsoftNMore.com Airsplat.com AirsoftRC.com
Vote for us to add your 180x30 banner here, pay ad zone 2

If you appreciate this website, please ASF Donation or Check Out the ASF Store. If you can not help us financially,
then at least help us by telling a friend: Share us on your favorite social networking website Bookmark and Share


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


Everything posted by heathovc

  1. You hit the nail on the head, exactly why I bought my G2010. I am superbly happy with it and with the exception of a rewire and a cheetah, it is bone stock and makes for a very versatile weapon. It feels solidly built and G&G has some awesome customer support when things do fail. There was only one part out of spec, the charging handle's joint (which is just for looks) and they worked with me and sent me a new part (at $15 shipping cost lol). Not only was the new part shipped to me but was also cast out of steel/aluminum, instead of sintered powder. They know English, which is something to be said from a company overseas. Take care of your gun and it will take care of you. They're just like a car. If you leave the same oil in there for 15000 miles, it's going to cause it to fail. Also if you use at a high rate of fire or power, parts will fail faster. Just like adding a nitrous system to your car. Service your gun every 10000 rounds, but I digress. Good job for the most part.
  2. Well. with Letje in a support role I use about a 2x5000 bb's for a 7 hour long skirmish, and that's CONSERVING ammo (5 x 300r hi caps/hour). Yeah I was in a LOT of action that day and the mg wasn't to be found, so I took up the position as the bb hose. It really depends on your role and battery size. Just be safe and take a bag of bbs with you. You shouldn't need more than that. If you do, then I guess you need 2 bags :P
  3. I've been using this forever until I got my Fidragon. If you mean that it runs way too fast and the db spikes leave no space in between, hit the zoom button. Else just fire the gun a little farther away. unless your gun is having problems and misfeeding or you're too lazy to count 100 bbs. :P To help y'all out.
  4. Check your motor height. All you should need to do is take off the butt cover and the back panel holding the gearbox in place. then take a bit and start tight, then when it won't turn, loosen it very little at a time until it is a smooth sounding box. I also have a cheetah and it fits in that little compartment below where the battery goes.
  5. I still have mine, found a new place for the mosfet and it works flawlessly every dang freaking time. Has not seen battle yet because of budget concerns...and gas prices.
  6. Taking off the orange is illegal if you plan to sell it in retail, which I'm not in the business of doing. Not to mention, it voids warranties. Since I know how to repair my own guns, I don't give a crap about warranties. I don't play wii games, but I did like the Nintendo 64 Goldeneye. The "Golden Gun" is not available, so I took a classic Bond gun (the PPK) and made it golden. It's also 1 hit kill semi-auto with reload after 11 shots. WINNING!
  7. Well, we get 1-shot kills anyway, but I look good doing it. With .12s that it came with, it's HORRIBLE, but what isn't with those? Stuck some .25's in there and it is relatively accurate at 15 meters (10/11 within 8" circle). 236-242 fps with .25s. In comparison with my KJW M9 blowback, it gets 300 fps with .25s. GOOD IDEA!! or go airsofting in a tuxedo, that's teh lols... Thanks :D I thought of doing a little derringer in gold too.
  8. A couple days ago was free guns day at BB Airsoft. All you had to do was go in and yell "FREE GUNS!" This was one of the 5 guns they gave away. Initially I thought I'd never have a use for it and thought it would be crap. Boy was I wrong. One of them said paint it gold...I thought of the golden gun in Goldeneye for N64 LONG ago. Disclaimer: I'm not responsible for what you do to your gun. This is merely a suggestion for modification and should only be done by those experienced in repair and modifications. Do only at your own risk. It started out as an HFC M7.65 Model in silver with that gawd awful orange tip. Screw warranties, this can't be repaired if it breaks anyway. The wood-like grips did not match the silver. Surfaced with sand paper to get rid of rough edges from casting the plastic and the orange paint edge. I sawed off the threads because the original Walther PPK didn't have a suppressor. I took all the insides out so they won't get gobbled with paint. Ready for priming. Primed and ready for gold paint! Painted but I decided I'd take some PTFE tape and put around the poor edges of the gas cylinder where it might cause a leak to originate. Then I put some electrical tape around the PTFE tape to secure it. Put all the parts back in and screwed it together. Put the wood-like grips back on and pulled off the painters tape (hard with gold paint) from the ejector port (on the real-steel). IT LOOKS AWESOME! I had no idea how much win this would have!! Final product! Yes, I know the circled P is still there...it would be too much work to fill it in and smooth it out.
  9. Yeah but it won't have FNH on the side like the real deal. ;) Wonder where they got this idea.
  10. idk about the v6 or v2 fitting, but the v6 has a higher up nozzle, and isn't directly in the center.
  11. it can take up to an m170 spring. it's a very beefy gearbox as far as I know. But the only parts that are compatible with aftermarket ones are the spring, barrel, and hop up bucking. No clue on the motor.
  12. Yes, the gearboxes are very similar. The difference is the cutoff lever, the switching system, and the spring guide (don't know if the spring guide is built into the shell).
  13. Did a review on it on another site, so I'm using my copy and paste function. Some of this has already been said. But since this is the info section, I thought I'd share. Okay, right off the bat, the thing LOOKS fantastic. It feels quite heavy for a plastic gun. This feels durable. Indeed it is, the plastic anyway. Right from the factory I pulled the charging handle back and SNAP. Busted right off. They didn't remove a seam from the metal forming process so it stuck to the charging handle rod like a pressed on pinion gear. Got it off and removed the seam, super glued the part together and now it works and slides freely. That is the ONLY problem I had with this gun so far. It has an accurately machined picatinny rail on the top, but a useless backup rear sight (even though it works correctly). The rear sight is hard to adjust, that could be a good or a bad thing. It says in it's position but it's also hard to move the position without a screwdriver. Also there is a serial number on the upper. The hop up is hard to access, but if you have a long enough thumb, you can adjust it without taking off the upper receiver. It's located under the part that flips up behind the rear sight. This is because it's bullpup! The upper receiver fits onto the lower receiver REALLY WELL :D and is held together with the bolt catch. The mag release is unique, and is right in front of the magazine. No more pressing buttons that screw on. I've already taken out the inner barrel that provided decent accuracy, but not quite as much as I had liked. I put in a 363mm Madbull Version 2 Black Python I had laying around from my m4 build, and it's slightly shorter by an inch or 2 than the stock barrel. Thing shoots like a laser now, and the bucking is nice too. I've also added a Cheetah MOSFET and rewired the gun for it to fit, which didn't take much. Only relocation of 2 wires, the deletion of 1 wire, and the adding of a 4 pin micro deans connector for docking purposes. Very simple wiring, just a connection of the 2 trigger wires, and relocation of motor wires. + the mosfet has AB which makes the gun sound crisper sounding and provides more accurate turning of the gears. This has a dual stage trigger with a semi and fully auto selection. On safe, the trigger cannot be pulled back. On semi, the trigger pulls back the contact plug that slides in between 2 copper prongs. Cutoff lever disengages it and the shots stop. On fully auto, you can half pull and perform the semi mode just as before. If you pull all the way back, the second set of copper plated switch bars are connected by the metal on the trigger and the contact plug below is released either by the trigger or by the cutoff lever, whichever hits it first. The shots continue because the circuit is still completed by the second switch. Pretty cool huh? As far as chrono testing goes, here is a chart of the ballistics I have tested with a Fidragon Chronograph and P-Force .25 BBs (joules and .20 BB conversions done in excel.) It is a very VERY flexible gun and can adapt to any scenario. High enough velocity for a DMR, but low enough velocity for close field... And a longer barrel but not a longer profile, actually a much shorter profile than my m16 has. Not to mention I just chronoed my gun at 22.1 rps at the lowest setting of the spring guide. Quite the impressive ROF for a stock gun. Yes, it has an adjustable spring guide! Quite the range of velocities I might add. 375-432 FPS with .20 BBs. I can also take the spring guide out and replace the spring should I choose to, without even disassembling the gearbox. Externally it's very quiet. Here's a video of me shooting it from 130 feet or so away, kinda cheesy I know. A few words to say: It doesn't come with a battery, so you will need a 9.6v mini battery. I'd recommend a tightbore barrel for it, and that's all you need really. The gears are good, it has consistent compression, and decent accuracy. It will run you about $430 after tax and shipping should you choose to order it locally. Even though it has a steep price, you won't need to pay good money or waste precious time repairing something because it doesn't break shot after shot. I definitely recommend it to ANYONE.
  14. Now that I'm looking at it, I think the panther would fit this gun a bit better. But since I have an m16 I put it in, I chose the cheetah. :P I know!!! I think this will be my new primary. 300 posts!
  15. Thanks! I worked hard on it. The wiring for the mosfet on the battery end will be replaced with silicone coated wiring. The wiring that came stock on the gun is awesome already and doesn't need replaced and doesn't need to be flexible. I didnt have to even cut those 2 wires as they were already the perfect length. I love those deans micro plugs. OH and when it's available check this out. I never realized Letje was THIS quiet! like holy shiite muslims dieing for their virgins quiet. I love the AB the mosfet provides. Less chance of hitting a teammate because of motor wind down (it's happened). my 299th post.
  16. +1!!!! What type of nozzle does it take? M4? And it would be nice to have a metal cylinder head.
  17. it looks like an m4 one piece hop up could fit in there with some work. But why would you need one? This one is pretty good quality I say. On to my mosfet wiring :D The same way as you guys, except mine fits worse than the AB long but better than the panther because of it's form factor. 21 rps is my guess.
  18. make sure you are turning it CLOCKWISE. They are reverse threaded.
  19. Got around to docking my FET. here it is on the M16. Next is Letje but I have to get my wire in first. and then I'll redo her.
  20. it's fine for aluminum. don't know about magnesium. Just don't heat up the springs...it could make them more brittle, or so I've heard. Just use gun kote and bake it. Takes less time, and if you take your time to do things properly, you will have a good, thin, durable finish. I'm actually thinking of gunkoting Lorelei's barrel, but it may be awhile. I do all my own handiwork as I don't trust anyone else with my babies, especially Letje because no one knows how to work on it since it's a new platform.
  21. DANG! G2010 on the market. brand new. $400. just kidding :P
  22. The tappet is fine with every other gear, but I gave up on these gears for now. Too noisy and when shimmed to allow minimal freedom but still spin freely and never touch at high speed, something, maybe gear alignment or motor alignment or whatever is just so off that they are noisy no matter what the setting. I may need a new pinion gear for my motor, but that can wait. It's MUCH louder with my amp motors btw if that helps at all. Also, I fixed this issue by taking 2 discs of metal and supergluing them together and forming a new sector chip that works perfectly while still providing perfect nozzle alignment with the hop up. it also adds a bit of good delay for feeding at high speed even though they are torque gears.
  23. take some expandofoam or whatever it's called and put it on the side of the gearbox so it doesn't interfere with any parts or switch assys, and press the gearbox in. Take a knife and cut out areas of freedom for parts. perfect mold.
  24. My setup is a stock gun with the mosfet and a 9.6v NiMH battery. Oh and several 450 round mags.
  • Create New...