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heathovc

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Everything posted by heathovc

  1. If parallel looks like this: Does series look like this: or this: or this: I'm thinking the series 3, but I just wanted to make sure before I go ruining my supercaps. If in the event I'm wrong on all series ones, would someone draw a diagram for newbs?
  2. Okay, so get one that handles 14.8v. But you have to also consider whether or not you want active breaking or several other things. I really don't care if I have active breaking in my guns as the level of wear and tear on my drive train goes up (although I have a cheetah from EF.... and maybe going to get another). That's not the reason I chose the computerized chip, I chose it because I wanted to have full auto, 3 round burst, and semi auto restriction (and for those you need AB), which a normal MOSFET can't get you. + I liked the form factor and the easy hookup with screw clamp terminals instead of solder connections. Lots of options to consider, I wouldn't recommend narrow-sightedness when there are this many options.
  3. Lookin good! Oh and thanks to you guys for all the pictures. I'm planning every little thing. Did you guys wait until the warranties were up or did you just dig right in?
  4. yeah I came into the 1-2 mm of extra space when putting on my hogue handguard (doesn't need a nut) and my real steel nut / MAKO real steel handguard. Just put some little teeny tiny spacers 2x2x(1-2)mm rubber spacers in front of the threads in the front on the flat space...can't really describe it...to keep the outer barrel from wiggling. The wiggle really effects your gun if you have a long outer barrel with a free float handguard...
  5. You can only squeeze out as much as the battery lets you. it's max discharge rate, unless there's some magic power that can draw more current from a battery...
  6. well if you have ~$50, an m4/m16 model, you have a metal cylinder head, a metal body, and a 1 piece hop up, buy an Ajax STS and your gearbox front will never break. My JG box lined up nicely, better than dboys and the gears haven't broken yet. I have every part upgraded in that thing, yet I still use 2 stock jg gears. If you can find a drop in box, it's probably just as expensive as the box and some gears, and you'd have some spare parts. If you are so die hard against JG like some people, then go for a CA 7 or 8mm shell.
  7. Airsoft games: OKIV!! - Turns out I shot a friendly sniper. He was wearing a GREEN (IE: OPFOR) ghillie...I was tan (well, multicam, but on the tan team). Funny stuff: For all you CAWD lovers. My gun over it's evolving stages: Stock (exception is inner barrel): After a few parts: Several hundred maybe a thousand into it (not really worth ALL that cash, but some of it ): Current (before Element helical 200% gears and an 8mm BB shell): G&G G2010 coming in the next week. Will update!
  8. pretty awesome sir. I hope to make some videos like this soon too.
  9. try amplify under the effects menu after you select the audio you want to amplify. try 10+ db.
  10. You simply can't have 550 fps reliably, things are going to break down the road. First start with a gearbox that has almost no chance of breaking (probably a v7 or a v2 with an ajax sts). Next get a metal cylinder head, aluminum piston head, then an all metal toothed piston. Next get an upgraded spring guide, then an ungodly spring. Next get some infinite torque up gears and a high torque motor. Then get a mosfet and some new wiring and a huge battery. Then get a hard type hop up bucking. I think I've nailed it all. Btw, it's a Mythenes shell.
  11. I suggest you get a mosfet. Preferably an SW-AB-Long from extreme-fire.com. It can handle the current better than the switch. With a 9.6 you have a high amount of current traveling through the switch (something along several amps). With the mosfet, you have a switch current of about .01 amps. They also prevent arcing and having copper dust fly everywhere in your gearbox. I have the cheetah but it's more than I need. You probably needed a new switch assy. Just fyi, you can replace your wiring much cheaper than $18, but since you needed the switch go go along with it, it was probably a good investment.
  12. Motor (brand, type): JG stock (blue bell) RPS (rounds per second): 12/16/19(21.6 with amp motor) Battery used: Tenergy 8.4v 2400 NiCD Large type/Tenergy 9.6v 3800 NiCD Large type/Elite 9.6v 4000 NiCD (SC) Large type Gearbox Gears: stock, brand, type: Guarder standard bevel, JG stock sector, spur. Piston: SRC Strength (UP-38) Bearing spring guide and JBU Aluminum piston head and a rubber faucet washer for AOE Gear ratio (if you know): standard Cables/mosfet/connectors (AWG size, deans, mini-tamiya, tamiya): 14g/14g/16g, all copper; deans ultra ; Extreme-fire Cheetah mosfet, standard motor connectors (not gold plated) Measurement: Audacity and Big Dragon chrono, same reading. Here's audacity and the 8.4. Not very good, so I had to amplify it quite a bit.
  13. depends on the internals of your gun. and this should really belong in the battery section. People that visit that section are more inclined to know about specific battery questions, than those who regularly visit this subforum ;) Brand: Model: Any customizations:
  14. cheaper because there is less demand for it. I wonder how many people want g&p m120 or m160 motors thanks to this forum.
  15. I love my elite batteries. they do really well. my tenergys on the other hand last about 6 months before burning out, and I game about once a month. 12 bps with a stock blue bell jg motor, and an 8.4 and a 120 spring. don't know yet on the amp motor but figure around 22 with a 9.6. we'll see when I get my chrono. =] btw that's excellent for a gun with 24000 rounds through it. sorry, didn't see this was originally posted in 09... it was just at the top of the list.
  16. I used superglue. it quiet my gearbox a lot. still kickin.
  17. G&P m170 is overkill I think. Just marketing hype imo. I know this guy who has one in his m16, and almost the same setup as me with my amp. very little difference in ROF. and my amp pulls a m140 just fine.
  18. OMG STAR YOU ARE MY HERO!!! I didn't even know this thread existed, it's just one of my favorite guns. I'm definitely getting the G&G. Screw the JLS, I'll wait 2 months if I have to to save up the cash. And when I get it, I'll try to put the mosfet in once I figure out how the whole gun works itself.
  19. G&G that's freakin awesome! I'll consider it, even though I only have about $200. I may just have to settle for less. and yes I know, I get what I pay for. Black or tan? OR should I sponge paint it?
  20. Lola I did the paintjob on. Kinda awkward walking through wal-mart with fishnet for women's legs LOL... She is 500fps with stock barrel (it's also bent), and has a firefly. She shoots a bit to the right, around 150 feet on average days.
  21. I'm looking for a gun; a JLS f2000. Should I go with Airsplat (hate their customer service, they are so unreliable and confusing)? Know of anywhere else that has one? I want the gun and I don't care how I get it.
  22. Here's the current list of upgrade parts for it JG shell with modified trigger post (see v2 trigger post fix here if yours breaks) Guarder std ratio reinforced bevel gear JG stock ("GE") spur and sector gears JBU 6mm solid bushings JBU aluminum piston head SRC Strength piston (UP-38 I believe) Guarder bearing spring guide Guarder SP120 spring King Arms tappet plate Systema cutoff lever with some modification Classic Army trigger plug/trolley and switch Custom wiring AMP Tactical motor 9.6v 3800mAh Tenergy battery / 9.6v 4000mAh Elite battery (cheapbatterypacks.com) with deans plugs Hogue Overmolded handguard for AR15, rifle length VLTOR flip up front sight Magpul MOE grip in OD Echo 1 Zombat metal body, custom painted OD with tan parts UTG m16 buttstock (holds a large 9.6 with end cell modification ---Battery Modification---
  23. That looks like a guarder piston. Yes shave off the 2nd tooth, it's the second to the left of the piston pictured. then put a 4.5mm rubber washer between the piston head and the piston. You may need to drop by the hardware store to buy a longer screw. And bring in the current piston head screw to compare pitch and length. Mine needed a 3/4 inch stainless steel angled head machine screw and a 5/8" depth rubber faucet washer.
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