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Everything posted by verisimilitude

  1. Look at the original posting date. When a sales thread is this old, please just PM the person offering the item for sale. It's pointless to revive the thread, and the odds are it's long ago sold and the person hasn't checked the thread for months.
  2. There might be some very minor differences, but this guy is very clear and helpful.
  3. For conventional hopping, using just the standard nub and bucking, I don't think you can beat the Prommy. I also like Modify very much. As to the Prommy's superiority, I think it has to do with some combination of at least three things: the overall tolerances with which it is made (e.g. inside diameter); the profile of the bump inside that makes contact with the bb; and the composition of the material out of which it is made--how "sticky" it is as it briefly contacts the bb.
  4. Get a flashlight and shine it up into the cavity where the CO2 capsule fits. Around the spike that punctures the top of the capsule, you should see a semi-transparent seal made out of a nylon-like substance. The material that this is made of often hardens over time, letting gas escape. Try a little silicon oil all over the tip of the capsule before you insert it. Not under- or overtightening the capsule is also important. If you have repeatedly overtightened the capsule in the past, the seal is probably shot, and there is little that can be done.
  5. This KJ hi-capa unit suggests cross-compatibility. http://gunartairsoft.com/products/K.J--Hop...APA-Series.html
  6. Errrr... Have a look here. http://www.skyproairsoft.com/prod_list.php?series_id=39
  7. Do you mean (1) the slide doesn't lock back when the magazine is empty, or (2) the pistol keeps on firing without you touching the trigger?
  8. I'd go for this one. http://www.kjworksusa.com/kjw_kp-05_black.shtml Gives you MEU-like looks and a hi-capa magazine with much better gas capacity. Spare parts are also plentiful. http://gunartairsoft.com/search.php?search...mp;x=14&y=8 KJs are TM clones, so instructional videos on TMs also work for them. Check out LaZouche Custom on youtube. Lots of clear videos. He has you covered.
  9. This is pretty much it, and it's out of stock. You could take the serial numbers and trying googling... http://www.skyproairsoft.com/prod_detail.php?item_id=138
  10. Threading for flash hider on outer barrel is CW, rather than the much more usual CCW.
  11. As you are offering this item for trade, that is equivalent to offering it for sale, and for that you need to become an authorized seller. Please see the sticky in the section on trade items, for the distinction between offering for trade and looking for items.
  12. Rumor has it that recent Madbull rail products have a redesigned barrel nut that is more tolerant of different thread sizes. Madbull are now making a special Noveske NSR nut for AEG, which suggests that the one that comes with the rail is designed for GBBr, and GBBr threading is much closer to (though not identical with) G&P's imperial threading.
  13. I have the Prometheus kit with the larger number of orangey-red plastic parts (there are two versions). I believe it performs very well because of good manufacturing tolerances. The unit itself is well made. The plastic parts fit extremely well. The arm doesn't need shimming. In a conventional set-up, this leads to good, equal, symmetrical pressure from the nub. The purple prommy bucking is also good, and I have got best results from the combination.
  14. I think you should consider the classic Tokyo Marui VSR-10. Being a TM, the fps will be fairly low, but it should have good accuracy stock. Later, you can consider a whole host of possible upgrades. And you're still well within your budget. http://echigoya-guns.com/guns/index.php?ro...;product_id=107
  15. See if this comes anywhere close. It comes in two sizes and three cummerbund sizes. http://www.skdtac.com/Mayflower-Assault-Pl...C-p/mfr.512.htm
  16. You are using the original nozzle with the new BBU, which will have a different piston head and O-ring inside it. So I return to my second question. The nozzle should be a snug fit over the O-ring. No "play" (extra movement) but no snagging on back and forth movement of the nozzle either. Snug but free-moving. A poor fit here will lead to lack of compression, leading to low fps and problems with cycling.
  17. Check the dates before posting. This thread is a year old.
  18. Get a flashlight, look down inside, and there should be a screw inside the stock tube. You may need an extra-long screwdriver in order to reach it. Typically philips-head.
  19. Are you using the original nozzle? How is the fit of the nozzle over the piston head? When you start changing parts, you can never assume the tolerances will be correct.
  20. I don't understand the last part of your sentence (re. the hop-up), but basically all you do to remove the free-float rail is unscrew that large knurled nut in the middle of picture #1. It may be tight. Get some tape/rags before you try some kind of wrench on it. Once that nut is undone, the whole rail should just come off the front, provided nothing else is obstructing it. (Photos not too clear.)
  21. After this long a lapse of time, message the seller directly, rather than posting in the sales thread.
  22. Each and every item for sale needs to have at least one photo (and it can be a group photo) with your ASF name and the date beside it. Thread will now be closed. Contact any mod when you have the correct photos ready for upload. This is all laid out clearly here, in the B/S/T guidelines. http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/Airsoft-...es-t264418.html
  23. On each shot, the gas has to do two things: send the bb forward, and then the rocket valve closes, send the slide back. Your problem therefore suggests poor compression. I would check the fit between the piston head O-ring and the nozzle. It needs to be snug, not loose or tight, free-moving but with no play. Then check the O-ring itself. If there is no visible damage, soaking overnight in a little silicon oil is a good thing.
  24. Logically, either something isn't assembled properly, or a part has been missed out. If I had to guess--and all we can do is guess--I'd say the nub isn't seated properly, between the hop-up arm and the top of the bucking. The good thing is you can check whether it's working or not before reinstalling it in the gun. Tight bucking is a good thing. A tiny, tiny amount of silicon oil on the *outside* of the bucking will help to slide it into place.
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