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baobamonk

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About baobamonk

  • Rank
    ASF Citizen
  • Birthday 03/05/1977

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Wausau, Wisconsin
  • Interests
    Music,Airsoft,

Previous Fields

  • Airsoft Replicas Owned
    CYMA CM042 Full Metal Real Wood AK47 w/Custom furniture / KSC M11a1 / WE Full Metal 3.8 Baby Hi-Capa / Two Ksc 26c metal barrel/slide./Jg beta spetsnaz folding stock/Beta Spetznaz full stock/ACM 500 "cruiser"/Well AW.338/G&G FS51 g3/King arms/cybergun Thompson m1a1
  1. 30 feet and it hits the ground! MAYBE 40 feet on the first shot, then the range drops with every shot afterward.
  2. 30 feet and it hits the ground! MAYBE 40 feet on the first shot, then the range drops with every shot afterward.
  3. where can I get hi capacity stick type mags (preferably metal) for the King Arms / Cybergun - Thompson m1a1? They used to make CYMA 380 rd. stick mags, but they are out of stock EVERYWHERE! Is there a better alternative that is compatable with the king arms/cybergungun, that's actually in stock? If not, a box set of mid caps (metal) that hold at least 130 rds would be cool! I don't know if the Marui are compatable OR metal?
  4. Ha ha, No just relieved to finally have this problem behind me...now onto figuring out why my well AW .338 only shoots 30 feet!
  5. Using a Matrix High Output 8.4V 4000mAh Ni-MH Large Type Battery (from evike) that I soldered a dean's connector onto... I WAS wondering if I installed the anti-reversal switch spring right, it seemed to be working but a bit weak. Thought it might be the Tappet, because it WAS bent, but I did the nozzle test, and it was great, it sprang right back nice and crisp
  6. WOW...finally got this problem taken care of! That was WAAAAY too long to spend on such a tiny problem! Anyway I ended up ordering the thread protector from the real steel manufacturer, and TA-DA... this time they sent me the right part and not some rubber cap for $14 dollars! I went to screw it on and it wouldn't go? After a few measurements and screwing up the threads(I got mad and tried to force it) and the thread protector cap actually cut some metal off the muzzlebrake! I showed it to a machinist who said "Oh they are opposite thread direction from each other" GREAT! I finally just took a grinder to the muzzlebrake's threads and ground it down until the thread protector would screw the "right" way CCW...Then I realized they didn't send a socket set screw, so I had to search around for the right size one which was Not metric, and the only one in town, in Black was too long, so I took a dremel to that too, carving it down to 1/2 it's original size, and after losing it 3 times and 12 tries to get the set screw hole to lie at the bottom of the muzzlebrake when I screwed the thread protector on...It is FINALLY complete and looks damn good! I hope I never have to work that hard and long for such a stupid little problem again, I KNOW other people want the real steel look for this rifle and I just wonder how THEY tackled it?
  7. My G&G fs51 only fires once or twice on semi auto, then goes totally dead. If you switch it to full auto, it works, but when you switch it back to semi, it shoots twice and goes dead again? I just noticed in taking it apart, the Fire selector plate's spring was bent and didn't look right (see picture / red arrow) could this lttle spring be the culprit? I have also had a bent (upwards toward the spring)tappet plate and loud motor whine like a motor spinning backwards "Whiiip" noise after I pull the trigger, seperate problem. Any ideas? The nozzle is springing back fine and tappet seems to be working.
  8. So I cut the extraneous tamiya connector that sits in the back of the receiver and soldered the 2 wires together, it shot a couple of times in semi. and then just stopped...nothing at all! Then I switched to full auto and it shot (missing a few bb's/dry firing) here and there, then I switched back to semi...2 shots and dead again? I opened up the version 2 gearbox and the rear of the tappet plate was bent upwards toward the spring, there was a little chunk of metal at the back where the spring rests and a small piece of wiring insulation sitting on the gears. Nice job at the factory! I MIGHT get to send it back, even though it was a bit past warranty/wires were altered and Dean's connectors installed...I'm most worried that I had already painted the flashider...oh nooooo! Maybe they will be cool and let me keep it and take the price of the flashider out of my return?
  9. yeah, I already have 3 hi caps and don't want the rattle! I found a site that had Jg metal 130 rd. midcaps and I will get those and hope they don't suck!
  10. I see what you mean now...I opened my stock up and my Tamiya fell out, it wasn't connected to that shrinkwrapped one , so I pulled the electrical connector pins out with a needlenose and did my best to clamp them back on threw a bit of solder on it for good measure and plugged them back in, hooked up a fresh charged large 8.4, pulled the trigger...NOTHING! I might as well just put my upgrade wiring in and pray!
  11. Yeah I did find some Pro arms 130 rd. mags on there, but I don't know if they are compatible or not, or if they are any good, anybody have any experience with these?
  12. I'm going to get some of those, the reviews are amazing...Or is it Bio-VAL I'm thinking of...wait Biovals are the glasslike ones that shatter windshields!
  13. Aggghhh, it's still almost too cold here to really use gas, but it's warming up!
  14. Yeah, I still have to take my stock off and look better, but I believe mine is a large type Tamiya connector.
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